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SOLD - Thanks for looking. 42 untested cartridges as a lot with several dupes. The yellow one with the faded label is Deluxe Invaders and the one with the glare that you can't read is Centipede. Entire lot for $168 price includes shipping to lower 48 (continental) United States only. I only ship to continental USA. That is $4 per cartridge (sold as a lot only) shipped. Bargain mate. Requires payment via Paypal prior to shipping.
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Dear All! This is our "Atari 8-bit Programming" Discord server. It is a twin Discord server to the Fujinet Discord. Here is an invitation: https://discord.gg/GTapZjCsgp Best, Peter Kaczorowski
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Alright, who with controller modding/building experience and a 3D printer want's to make this happen? ? I'm a sucker for matching, and there are quite a few XE games that just play better with a joypad over a stick.. but there aren't really any controllers that match the XE/ XEGS... so I designed this abomination! And with a 3D printer + the guts of a Sega Genesis controller, the dream can be a reality.. oh.. I'm the only one dreaming of this? ? But seriously. If anyone has the time and skill to make something like this, let me know your price!
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Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
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Hi, I've just bought 2 power supplies for my Atari 130XE and my Atari 800XE as I lost my previous power supplies during moving. I've bought the new power supplies from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324218268282 Now, this seller has MANY positive reviews and experience, so I'm probably reading every schematic / pinout wrong. The adapters do look hand made though - the connector part - maybe a mistake was made. I've connected both supplies to my 130XE, and nothing. No signal, completely dead. Ok, I've tried the 800XE. Same, dead. I've measured the power supply and it gives 5volts, it is rated at 1amp. Still nothing. But then, I started noticing the polarity might be wrong. It's reversed from just about any picture / pinout I can find. So I've opened the computer and measured. Please see photo attached. Is this the correct polarity, and my Ataris just died, or is the polarity reversed? If reversed, did I just kill my computers?:( Thank you all a lot.
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Hello, looking for a good quality, double-sided photo of the atari 64k memory card (atari 64kmr) for the 1090 xl expansion system. It would help me for to be able to redo this board. or better someone here maybe has the "gerber" file to recreate the PCB ? I have an atari 1090xl expansion system, but I have no cards to put in it ? Thanks!!
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- atari 1090 xl expansion system
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Hi. I have just received my first Atari 8-bit computers; two PAL XEGS. One works, the other doesn't. (I have ordered up replacement RAM for the faulty one.) But my question is: What is the difference between the C014806-03 and the C014806-12 CPUs? My guess is that the -03 is a 3MHz chip for use in PAL units (this is what I have in my XEGS') and that the -12 is the 2MHz version for use with NTSC units. I'd be grateful for a clarification, as I like to order up a few spare parts to have on hand. Cheers, Tore
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I have several XE carts (the light grey ones) that have something rattling around inside when you shake them. Sounds like little bits of plastic. Is there a safe way to open these carts without damaging them so I can remove the noisy bits? Extra points for a how to video. Thanks!
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Hi all! I've recently acquired a pretty large Atari collection, and I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about the authenticity of the cart in the images. I'm hoping it is a genuine prototype and not a bootleg! Thanks in advance :)
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I was pouting over the lousy 64KB of ram in my 65XE the other day and decided to look into expansion options. It's one of those without the ECI port, so it would need to be an internal unit. Looking at what was out there, I wasn't very happy. How about I try my own hand at it? Here's my initial thoughts on the matter. The idea is 1) it must use the "standard" CIA PORTB for bank control, 2) it cannot interfere with the normal operation of any of the bits, and 3) it should support CPU/ANTIC bank control. I looked at the memory available online... what do you know, there's a 2Mx8 5V 45ns SRAM from Digikey for about $5. Two of them would fill out a full 8 bit bank select just peachy. But how do you get 8 bank address lines from the port without interfering with the operation of the bits? A latch comes to mind. And that's the main thing - a hex D-Type flip-flop. Clearing PB7 will clear the latch, so asserting the self-test ROM will just clear the latch. No problem there. I use PB6 as the flip-flop clock (latched on rising edge). So if this were in an XEGS, clearing PB6 enables the Missile Command rom, which wouldn't be an issue as long as the code to switch banks isn't in either the bank memory space or in the rom cart space. No problem there, either, especially on systems without Missile Command. I use PB5-0 as the inputs to the d-flip-flops... no problems there as long as the code to switch banks isn't in bank memory space, the cart space, or the OS ram space... so in the first 16KB; oh, and the ints are off unless you keep the int code and data in the first 16KB as well. Still not an issue. But how do I get 8 bank address bits from 6 latched bits. Well, just use PB2 and 3 as normal. The latched bits extend them from 2 bits to 8 bits. Use A21 and it's inverse to select one of the two sram chips, use PB4 and 5 along with A14 and A15 and /HALT to generate the other chip enable, a few gates for output enable and write enable and Bob's your uncle. The prices in the pic are from Digikey in single unit quantities for surface mount parts. A handful of bypass caps to round it out at less than $15 in parts... minus the board. That's gonna be the "fun" part. Been a while since I made a board. I'll update as I get further along. Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
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I acquired this back in August but realistically don't have room for it and am looking to sell. A bit difficult to get a true valuation since there aren't too many of these around and little is known about the system, other than that it was sold in at least two countries, Mexico and Chile. I currently have it listed on eBay for $499 but I'll certainly consider all reasonable offers and will offer free, fully-insured USPS Priority Mail or FedEx shipping in a well-packed box. Sure, lots of us know that the regular XE Game System (XEGS) is a repackaged 65XE, but this here is an ACTUAL 65XE branded as an XE Video Game System. And to take it a step further, it is the extremely hard to find NTSC final production run model, where Atari made the 65XE on a 130XE motherboard and case. Yep, that's right, it has the Expansion (ECI) Port present and the board internally is identical to the 130XE, minus the 130XE's added RAM, of course. Cosmetically, the system and accessories are in good shape. Even the plastic protective film over the system nameplate is still present. As far as I know, this bundle includes everything that originally came with the system, including all paperwork, manuals, accessories and packaging. Note that some of the manuals are only in Spanish. Please see the eBay link above for pictures of everything. I have additional pictures beyond the 12 that eBay limits me to that I would be happy to provide - just shoot me a note. This system and has been lightly cleaned, fully tested and works, and passed all of the "self tests" that Atari built-in to the system software. That said, it has the following flaws: Color output seems a bit "off." For example, when playing Donkey Kong, the ladders are a pinkish color instead of blue. Similarly, when loading into basic, instead of a blue screen with "ready," a pink screen with "ready" appears. I have tested this via both RF and monitor (composite) outputs (monitor/composite cable not included; only RF, RF adapter and the very old school switchbox (no need to ever use this but included for completeness)) and got the same results. Would be happy to provide pictures demonstrating the color output; just send me a message. Research has indicated that a slight adjustment of the "color adjust pot" under the hood will likely fix this easily. I didn't discover the fix until after I packaged it all up and I'm also not too familiar with doing that adjustment, so I will leave that up to the buyer. Joystick, while good cosmetically, needs some work. Occasionally it will respond as it should, other times the directions don't respond immediately and sometimes it thinks fire is pressed without it actually being pressed. Light gun, while great cosmetically (both stickers are intact) and the trigger does respond, it does not seem to communicate properly with the TV and system to indicate "hits." System outer box is worn, as evidenced by the pictures, but it still holds its shape well. All three games have also been cleaned and tested and work great. Star Raiders II has both English and Spanish manuals included; Bug Hunt and Flight Simulator II are Spanish-only. Please let me know if you have any questions about this extremely rare piece of Atari gaming history!
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Ok all... please be gentle as I'm way out over my skis here! Lol. I've been an avid late 80's/Early 90's 286-486 PC collector for some time and have been interested in getting into Atari's 8-bit machines for a while but haven't taken the plunge. Well, I stumbled across this lot in a box at Savers today and couldn't leave it there as I never see stuff like this in the wild. Problem is, I have no idea what I'm getting into! From what I can tell both the 800 and 130XE have been modified. The 130XE has an Omnimon board by David Young but it won't boot... I tried both the 'Monitor' out and RF and both screens look the same. The 800 boots but keys "esc through 6" on the top row are unresponsive, could be something simple but I haven't cracked it open to see what's going on. I started to open it and found what looks like additional RAM/ROM and figured it was time to post pictures and get some more information from the experts. Excited to learn but a little overwhelmed with them already being modded. I'd love to sort the 130XE and fire up some games. And sorry about the PCjr looming in the background!
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Been looking for an Atari 800 or similar spec XL/XE model. Prefer XL/XE model, but will take the old style too! Ebay prices are either way too out there for me for what's being offered or Sold 'As Is and Untested' which I always kind of read as 'doesn't work and I'm selling my junk to you! Ahahaha!' Also interested in an SD Cart of SD Drive for it, but I'm finding those for more reasonable prices online so not required! Found one from an offer here! Thanks for checking~
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Hi! Due some feedback to one of my oldest projects "Sys-Check V2.2" I create two new versions of Sys-Check. They´re simply called Sys-Check V2.2 XL and Sys-Check V2.2 XE Technically there´s no difference to the standard version. The standard version is also offered furthermore. All new versions of the firmware will work on all Sys-Check versions and revisions like ever promised. While Sys-Check V2.2 "Standard" remains usable for all Atari XL computers (except 1200XL) and all XE computers with ECI-Port, the new versions are specialised for XL or XE models only. Both new solutions have distance bolts to have the PCB secured for continuous usage - a lot of users of Sys-Check reported me they never use it for diagnostics, but main time for external memory expansion or a different O.S. like for SIO2BT and others. The reasons for these new versions are: Some XL owner wished to have a Sys-Check version which is not upright assembled to easier access the switches Some XL users want to have the possibility to add a second PBI device, for example a harddisk-interface Some XE users need the possibility to connect a PBI device to your XE computer Here are the pictures of Sys-Check V2.2 XL The PBI connector at the end of the PCB is a 1:1 connection to the computer´s PBI. You can plug, for example, the Turbo Freezer 2011 behind Sys-Check XL and it will work. Of course you got problems when you enable OLD-OS or the memory expansion at the Turbo Freezer device AND also enable OS-ROM external support by Sys-Check and/or the memory expansion by Sys-Check. Only one external OS or one external memory expansion should be enabled. And some pictures of Sys-Check V2.2 XE The XE version has a PBI connector, which is mostly 1:1 compatible to the XL PBI. There are four signals, which aren´t existing at the XE ECI connector: RAS, CAS, EXTENB and RDY (Ready). These signals have a 6k8 pull-up resistor each to gain maximum compatibility. The most actual PBI devices don´t need one of these four signals and run fine. I found only the older Turbo Freezer II with DRAM memory expansion, which won´t run, because it needs RAS for the memory expansion part. But maybe more old PBI devices won´t run. This limitation always exists on any XE ECI to PBI adapters. I will assemble a few units of each version in the next 2-3 weeks. Watch out my most time each week updated info PDF found in this post Jurgen
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Good morning, AtariAge'rs! Has anyone ever found or developed a replacement adapter that will allow ICD's MIO to be connected to the 130XE? If so, could you point me to where I can purchase one? Thank you, in advance! --Timothy Kline
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While going through a box of Atari stuff I got back in the day, I found this homebuilt power supply: I made a quick schematic drawing; the only component I couldn't get a good view of was the small electrolytic capacitor across the output. I'm guessing it's around 10 or 20uF. Does anyone recognize this design (e.g. did it appear in a magazine or other publication)? Any thoughts on its quality? Based on the schematics I've seen of the "official" power supplies, this one seems simple in comparison—only 7 components! I'm a little short on good XL/XE power supplies. Assuming that the components are still good and I get 5V at the output, would this be a reliable supply to use?
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Hello, Last week I bought an Atari XE System, along with several games, at a thrift store. The original power supply, along with the light gun, were included. The console and games were very dirty. I removed the shell and, using compressed air, cleaned the board as much as I could. The metal housing is still attached. I also cleaned the cartridge slot and cartridges using rubbing alcohol. When the console is turned on, I get the green power light. However, the tv only displays a dark green screen. I have tried several different games, as well as re-cleaning the cartridges and cartridge slot, but there's no image other than a very dark green screen. The console displays the dark green screen with or without a game. I know nothing about circuitry or soldering and have no tools. I was hoping to find someone who could offer to repair the console, along with a rough estimate of the cost. I'd love to have the console working and have been an Atari fan all my life. Thank you very much.
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I was talking about pulling out some of my old disks on the Atari Museum on Facebook, when I mentioned a program I found years ago called 'TOS'. Basically, it was a simple graphic user interface for the 8-bit computers that allowed the joystick to be used to do some simple functions. I don't have a working 8-bit compatible mouse or trackball to see if it works smoother with those. I'm not sure where I got it or who wrote it. There's not much info in the program itself. Under Desk: Basic, Boot, Info (TOS, v1.0, for public domain, © 1985) Under File: erase, protect, unprotect, rename, format SD, format DD Under view: Directory on screen, directory on window Under Options: Request on, request off If anyone has any information where this came from, please let me know. By the way, the attached screenshot is from within an emulator running as a 130XE, but it originally was running on my stock 800XL using DOS 2.5, a stock 1050 and a standard joystick. I haven't tested it with any other DOS versions, drives or machines. I've attached an ATR file with just the TOS program on it if anyone want to try it. It does require you to load DOS first, but apparently will work with or without BASIC. My original disk had other... er... unlicensed software on it. TOS.ATR
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Good Morning All, I've recently dug out the Atari XE/XEGS whatever you want to call it from storage hooked it up to find I've got no video from any of the output options. I sometimes get just a blank screen then other times I get a brownish screen, most times I get what looks like v-hold failure with a single white bar except its diagonal & rolling no amount of tweaking the v-hold changes anything also I've got no sound. The guy I bought it from was trying to hook it up & not having any luck but figured it was just him not knowing how to hook it into his modern flat screen. I bought it untested from the counter of a RadioShack after he got frustrated by the clerks trying to sell him $30 worth of adapters so I've never actually seen it working myself. Things I've tried: 1: Multiple screens/outputs/cables. 2: Tested power supply voltages which were accurate. 3: Cart/No Cart inserted. 4: Booting into the self test. 5: Checking for hot chips on the mainboard none are particularly concerning. I can thermal image the entire board later. 6: Just hoping it was waking up from a long slumber. I'd appreciate any ideas as troubleshooting this beast doesn't seem to be covered all that well anywhere nor does a FSM appear to exist. Where would I buy any spares for this machine as I understand some of these parts are exclusive to the XE/XEGS. Thanks
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Hi All, Having recently benefitted from the Atari Age forum's experience and knowledge base I was able to successfully diagnose and repair my Atari XE. Mainly, the processor had gone kaput. I also installed more modern ram (yes, everything was socketed). So now, I'm able to enjoy the console. Before I box it back up, I remember the 6502 Sally was burning up before I replaced it (part of how I learned it was deceased). The new Sally processor installed is working nicely, and it doesn't get raging hot (like the old one did) but it does get significantly warmer than any other chip on the motherboard. Presumably, because it's doing more work. My question is, should I grab some Arctic paste and a heat sink and install that on Sally? couldn't hurt, right? Does anyone have a good source for a lower profile 40 pin top mounting heat sink? Thanks in advance! Jeff
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I've been using an almost stock 130XE with my Black Box. Like most XE's, the video is pretty good, but still not on par with some of my enhanced 600 and 800 XL's. (My absolute best system for video is a 600XL with the "simple" Sumrall video fix, augmented by a few simple improvements from the KJMann video mods. As such, it lacks all the added parts that can be stuffed into the missing component holes, but as I said it is the best I have and I would put it up against any non-VBXE system. The "Quick and Easy" video upgrade certainly makes a great improvement for the 800XL. And I even previously did the Super Video XE from Atari Classics, but to my eyes, the "Super Video XE" does not make much improvement, and is reasonably complicated to boot. All it did for me was to boost the color intensity make the foreground text really strong. So has anyone found any "simple fixes" to enhance the XE's? My actual complaints are that I get "smudgy" faint vertical bands in the background, and the text is not very crisp. (Note, these are not the normal color clock vertical lines.) Picture below shows the bands. I do have the color set very high for this picture to accentuate the bands, but even at normal levels, it is still pretty noticeable. Thanks, Larry
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After picking up an Arabic NAJM Atari 65XE i started searching for info on it. That led me to someone stating they had a Hebrew Atari 8-Bit (both with keyboard and OS variants). I'm wondering what other Atari 8-Bit computers came with different language variations? Is there a list that shows all different Atari 8-Bit computer keyboard language versions? I tried searching the Forums but only found keyboard variations - not language / OS variants. Would love to find out more (and collect) other Non-English Atari's
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Looking for help with pricing for a few sealed games I can't find much about I have Atari xe joust , moon patrol , blue max , caverns of mars all are sealed and I have doubles of all .. Hoping some one may have some info or could help me ..
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Hello friends, I am happy to announce that the 11th OFAM - Atari Meeting will take place from 25th September to 27th September 2015 in Germany, 95213 Münchberg, Kirchplatz 7, approximately 35 km away from the Czech border. Would be great to see many of you! http://ofam.de.vu Best regards, Chris