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Found 14 results

  1. I've been going through and making tweaks to a laundry list of subtle and minor things. I'm using the CONSOLE keys more than before so that you can play the game on an XEGS without needing the optional keyboard. START resets you back to Game Over / Rankings screen, SELECT Revives you to a Checkpoint, and OPTION is Pause. If you play on a computer like the 800XL etc, you can also rely on the SpaceBar for Pause, "R" for Revive. You can also Revive after getting eaten by just pressing the Fire Button on the joystick which is really the only time I ever use Revive when I play the game. Why Revive if you aren't eaten? Well, just in case you play as a bigger alt icon and get stuck in a bush , or the Troll steals your bridge and you are stuck .... the revive is a safeguard - it takes you back to the last checkpoint. Or players might use it as a shortcut back to the checkpoint screen when they are deep in a castle and don't want to manually find their way out. You have the option to do that. But you don't bring any carried items with you back to the checkpoint screen. That would be cheating!!! There have been approximately 1,000 changes made to the Atari 5200 Adventure II base code, give or take a hundred. So, the last 2 changes I made were: Bridge Building - when you drag a wood plank to either of the 2 island screens, you can build a walkable bridge. I opened up the path more so that all icons can cross over to the left-screen island area now. That wasn't possible on the 5200 unless you build the path AND used the bridge sprite. You build bridges to reach items, but you might also find a secret bat egg that way too. More Rankings tweaking - I had been noticing wrong rankings. One statistic that the game tracks is Time Played. The game gives you 10 minutes for Small mazes, 15 minutes for Mediums, and 20 minutes for Vast mazes. If you exceed those limits, the game will reduce your final ranking. But even on some games where I exceeded those limits, I was getting great rankings. WHY WHY WHY?? So, I found the problem, I was using Hexadecimal $10, $15, and $20 and not Decimal 10, 15, 20. Thus, the game was checking 16 minutes for Small mazes, 21 minutes for Mediums, and 32 minutes for Vasts! I fixed that. You can play a level for that long, especially if things just go wrong. I've played some games from 45 minutes. On the other hand, I've beaten small levels in under 4 minutes as the Square, and under 2 minutes playing as the Bat. Adventure II XE shows which statistics are considered bad by marking those with a little "x". If you quit out of the game, are eaten too much, didn't kill any dragons, excessively Revived, or took longer than the Time budget ... you'll get dinged on those categories and it affects your final ranking. All in all, the rankings are more complicated and robust than the original 5200 Adventure II , and the actual rankings are different with the exception of one which I kept. There are unique rankings for the Bat, Crab, and Knights. The game won't be published for many months because of the AtariAge store workload ... so I'll tweak a few more things in the meantime until I consider it done. That [email protected]#$ Troll sometimes seems to BAMF! around, like X-men Nightcrawler, so I'll look into that next. And I'm still playing around with some new sounds. I have the ROM space for some new sounds and music, but I don't want to overload the game with repetitive music. The silence is golden ... and when a sound does occur, it can add suspense. (_)3
  2. Cafeman

    AdvII XE testing

    I'm putting the final touches on this long delayed project., so here is the first summer '19 status report. I tested on my real XEGS hardware to ensure no game-ruining bugs! Didn't find any! Although that ranking seems too high based on how many times I got devoured and how many minutes I took to beat it ... I take notes of which variation I play , the end stats, and the ranking given. I'll review them after a few weeks and see if I need to tweak the rankings logic. It's not a big deal, but you don't want to see the same ranking all the time regardless of how well your game went, right? I made the game a bit more joystick-driven than it had been. You can pick all the options on the Title Screen using the joystick and button now, and when you are eaten, you can revive by pressing the Joystick button. Previously I had mapped the "R" key to the revive/respawn function, but I was tired of getting up from my reclining sofa and using the clunky XEGS clip-on keyboard all the time! So now I can sit back and play Adventure II XE for hours and not need to get up. To Pause ore reset completely, you still gotta use the keyboard or console buttons though. That is one huge advantage of 5200 gaming, you have all the needed commands at your fingertips using the CX52 controller. I also experimented with some color changes. Some have complained that the Gold Key and the Green Key are hard to distinguish from one another. This is true, depending on what color is the background image that each key is sitting overtop. Plus, the keys are tiny so color bleed on the overall image is worse than with the bigger images like the Chalice. But my eyes can still distinguish the difference. I tried different hues and luminosity settings but I was reminded once again WHY I chose those colors in the original 5200 version -- the items need to be bright and a different hue from the many background graphics across 4 kingdoms. Changing colors started to bring back the old "blending-in" issue . But I did decide to tweak some background screen colors. I tested my new colors and they looked great on a real TV; now I have to change them for the proper screens in-code and recompile everything. Some of these include files, like the ADV2COLR.TXT one with the screen colors, I haven't changed since about 2006! The thing is, these are compressed into INCLUDE files which are decompressed into RAM at boot-up. I forgot the compression steps completely, had to search out old notes to re-learn it. Thanks for reading, c(_)
  3. Hi guys, it has been a while since I had something to do with an 8-bit Atari. However, while collecting a lot of STs I've noticed there's an XEGS thrown in. I was quite happy to realise that because having an XEGS was a secret dream of mine when I used my little Atari. Unfortunately, it doesn't work. When I switch it on, I see only this: Once I managed to see a yellow-ish screen (with keyboard unattached), I assume that was because the built-in game was about to load but I haven't been able to reproduce it. The PCB looks very good: no leaked capacitors, no suspicious places on the PCB. If I press RESET, nothing visible (on that screen anyway) happens so I think the failure occurs sometime in an early stage. The green LED is on, so the PSU should be working as well. I can't hear any audio either, so it's not an video output problem. Any hints what to check?
  4. Hardware Legacy engineering USB Atari Joystick, £5 Commodore C64c Power supply. working £8 Commodore 1541 drive, tested+working, no leads £20 Atari 810 drive, boxed, Super Archiver fitted, tested and works great £90 (no PSU) Atari 1050, boxed, tested and working, £35 (no psu) Atari 1050, tested and working £20 Atari XEGS, Boxed, complete with polys etc £70 Sic! cart 4m £12 Atari 2600 light 6'er, tatty box, PSU,games,sticks £30 Sega Megadrive 2, 2 controllers, 3 games £10 Software Antic magazines, on 3 Discs pdf's and .atr's £10 A.N.A.L.O.G.magazines on 2 Discs pdf's and .atr's £10 Kolony 2106 boxed set £10
  5. I'm pretty strapped for cash, but am really wanting some cool atari 8-bit stuff to go with my new XEGS I've got coming. So I figured why not try and trade? Ability to read an SD card would be primo (like the SIDE cart, would be my number one pick). ANYWAYS.... I understand these MBX's are pretty hard to get/obscure and I have one in the box (decent to ratty shape for the box only) that looks great. Unit Joystick and PS with baseball book and overlay (no headset) all look fantastic. It worked great many years ago and has recently been rescued from my attic. EXTRA: Also have a set of single button joysticks on Y cable and the voice module FWIW. Anyone have some snazzy XEGS compat hardware they wanna trade??? If the TI ain't your thing, i've got two CoCo2's (one with box) and some misc coco materials.
  6. Hi everyone, I am having another purge of my video game collection at the moment. So below are a few of my Atari 2600 and Colecovision games that I am selling. Please feel free to use the best offer feature. You may be surprised as to what I will accept. I will also combine shipping and will be listing more items in the future. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796905701 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796905060 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796904347 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796903628 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796902724 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796902210 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796901382 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121796900194 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121800916347 ATARI XEGS
  7. Hello everyone, I looked at the ATARI FAQ online but couldn't find a satisfying answer. Would anyone know why the SECAM XEGS made for the French market has 2 color knobs? Is there a way to adjust those in a standardized manner or is it just about finding the best PQ on your screen? I'm attaching a picture of the MB (gorgeously restored by the tremendous Paul Westphal @ EightBitFix). Thanks!
  8. I'm thinking about connecting a XEGS keyboard to my 400. Since the XEGS keyboard has two 4051 in its case, the signals on the connector are essentially the POKEY input signals. My thinking is that I only have to connect the XEGS keyboard signals to the POKEY. My question: Should I protect the POKEY or does it suffice to directly connect them?
  9. Now, I socketed the ROM and the MMU in my XEGS and installed the Ultimate cables. I now only have to solder the CPU connections. But I vaguely remember that I need to configure a XEGS mode, but I can't find any reverences to it anymore. Is this the P3 header on the ultimate board?
  10. Hello everyone! I need to make sure that I'm testing my XEGS power supply correctly. Most pinout diagrams on Internet don't specify if the pinout is viewed from the connector's point of view or from the console's plug. Using the pinout configuration displayed on the guides, I get -5VDC instead of 5VDC in the respective pins; therefore, I assume that the guides show the pins reversed (i.e., shown from the console's plug), but I want to make sure if I'm doing the right thing. Any words of wisdom?
  11. Hello everyone! I recently purchased an XEGS with 4 carts, keyboard, light gun and original PSU, for about US$70 on eBay. Unfortunately, i was DOA (Red Screen of Death), but the seller promptly refunded me and allowed me to keep the item! So, I intend now to try to fix it, being that it is now literally free... By doing some research, I understand that the first suspect for this RSoD is the RAM chip(s). I already ordered a couple of Samsung 64K x 4 RAM chips for a couple of bucks each (same class as the original ones, although I read that the Texas Instruments were more common), but I thought that maybe a field service manual for the XEGS would come very handy on this, and any future, repair. However I've found service manuals for almost any other 8-bit Atari computer but the XE Game System (I found just the owner's manual). So, anyone have a PDF dump of those that could kindly share?
  12. Hi. I have just received my first Atari 8-bit computers; two PAL XEGS. One works, the other doesn't. (I have ordered up replacement RAM for the faulty one.) But my question is: What is the difference between the C014806-03 and the C014806-12 CPUs? My guess is that the -03 is a 3MHz chip for use in PAL units (this is what I have in my XEGS') and that the -12 is the 2MHz version for use with NTSC units. I'd be grateful for a clarification, as I like to order up a few spare parts to have on hand. Cheers, Tore
  13. Just got Lotharek's SIO2SD for my stock XEGS. I can meander thru with the k1-k4 hardware buttons and load ATR's - but if I just press start to get the keyboard navigation'able menu - I get a continuous "BOOT ERROR". I tried mounting the card and deleting the "SIO2SD.CFG" file, thinking that maybe after it wrote a new one, that would fix things. Well, it wrote a new one, but still get the "BOOT ERROR". Any help would be much appreciated!!
  14. I received a 2nd hand Necromancer XEGS Cart that does not work. It does take over the ram (16K?) above $8000 because basic gets disabled, and it goes straight to self-test. Self test only shows 2 rows of blocks in RAM test, instead of 2.5. My new Sys-Check II shows bad ram above $8000 with the cart inserted. I believe this is only a 16K game with no bank switching, hence no chip in the middle. I re-flowed the solder to pretty much all the touchable points on the pcb, no difference. I haven't looked to see if that 16K addressable space actually has anything in it yet.. Any other ideas? if the ROM chip is bad, can a 27128 EPROM be dropped in its place?
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