Clean a new game?

[JacobZu7zu7]

Hey, this is a general question about games 'still sealed',

if they should be cleaned with the q-tip method?

Are they good to go, or is it best to clean away the years?

Same question it a used Atari, should the circut board inside be cleaned?

 

ok, thanks.

[shadow460]

Test 'em first, and if they don't work, clean 'em. Cleaning can't hurt anyway, though.

[jaybird3rd]

As a general rule, I tend to clean the card-edge fingers on every cartridge I get, new or not, and I'm always amazed at the amount of residue that I'm able to clear away even on new-in-the-box cartridges. Dirt and other material doesn't just come from use; the chemicals and other materials used in manufacturing the printed circuit boards seem to slowly leech out onto the surface over the years, and as shadow460 says, cleaning doesn't hurt anyway. I use one side of a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to wipe both sides of the board, drying them immediately afterward with the other side of the swab to clear away any residue.

[joeybastard]

As a general rule, I tend to clean the card-edge fingers on every cartridge I get, new or not, ...

 

I do that too, I thought it was just a little OCD I had

[shadow460]

I actually clean most cart inside and out. If I'm buying a cart with an exposed screw, a lot of times I'll take it apart and clean the inside too. That's OCD for ya.

[+RandomPerson]

I have had games NIB be opened to find the contacts did have 20 years worth of corosion on them. Mind you it's like 1 in every 30 or 40 I open that have this issue but it does happen. Like Shadow said test it first. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

[JacobZu7zu7]

Cool, I think I'll test them, and clean 'em. Should be easy,

with 'Still Sealed' games that is.

[Rik]

Hey, this is a general question about games 'still sealed',

if they should be cleaned with the q-tip method?

Are they good to go, or is it best to clean away the years?

Same question it a used Atari, should the circut board inside be cleaned?

 

ok, thanks.

Use the "SPONGE TIPPED CLEANERS" instead of the Q-TIPS cus they wont leave cotton residue on the cleaning surface,get then at any pharmacy,also use "ELECTRONIC CONTACT AND HEAD CLEANER",that stuff is expensive,but has no water in it like rubbing any% isopropyl alcohol does,if you dont want to spend the money ,just use the q-tip iso alc method,im VERY fussy with my stuff,so i use only the best stuff.As far as sealed games go,the contact points still corode and oxidize while in the package,especially with the shrink wrap intact,if you ever open up a sealed game and it doesnt work,just clean the contacts and %99 of time, game will then work,its happened to me a couple of times.

Edited February 21, 2007 by Rik

[Classic Pac]

No alcohal...it has been my eperiance you just have to reclean them later. I use WD-40 and I find I only have to do it once, WD-40 not only cleans but it protects the contacts.

[Atari Punk 78]

Won't WD-40 get the game kind of oily and damage the inside of an Atari? I'm not willing to risk a 30 year old system.

Edited February 17, 2007 by Atari Punk 78

[+RandomPerson]

Won't WD-40 get the game kind of oily and damage the inside of an Atari? I'm not willing to risk a 30 year old system.

 

 

Yes, wd-40 has oils that do leave residue. It's more of a lube not a cleaner. Stick to 90 percent.

[Atari Punk 78]

Yeah, I feel safer with 90 percent. It dries up quickly and leaves no residue.

[Rik]

No disrespect to the suggestion,but, wd-40 is used to loosen RUSTED METAL,do what you Like,i WOULDNT TRY IT,l'll stick to contact cleaner.But i see wd-40 as more of a lube and rust disolver,and cleaner for grease,tar,on engine parts,industrial applications,seems a little to extreme for electronics,but hey ,if it works for you ,great.Just the smell of it is enough of a deterent for me.But some will think my suggestions are EXTREME,so its all good,whatever works for you.

Edited February 21, 2007 by Rik

[EricBall]

No disrespect to the suggestion,but, wd-40 is used to loosen RUSTED METAL,do what you Like,i WOULDNT TRY IT,l'll stick to contact cleaner.But i see wd-40 as more of a lube and rust disolver,and cleaner for grease,tar,on engine parts,industrial applications,seems a little to extreme for electronics,but hey ,if it works for you ,great.Just the smell of it is enough of a deterent for me.But some will think my suggestions are EXTREME,so its all good,whatever works for you.

WD-40 should not be used as a lubricant. It's designed to evaporate. It's best to leave WD-40 for it's original purpose - Water Displacement.

[Rik]

No disrespect to the suggestion,but, wd-40 is used to loosen RUSTED METAL,do what you Like,i WOULDNT TRY IT,l'll stick to contact cleaner.But i see wd-40 as more of a lube and rust disolver,and cleaner for grease,tar,on engine parts,industrial applications,seems a little to extreme for electronics,but hey ,if it works for you ,great.Just the smell of it is enough of a deterent for me.But some will think my suggestions are EXTREME,so its all good,whatever works for you.

WD-40 should not be used as a lubricant. It's designed to evaporate. It's best to leave WD-40 for it's original purpose - Water Displacement.

I went by whats labeled on the can,it states it is to be used to lube hinges,wheels,rollers,chains and gears,which i have, and its actually done a SUPERB job.Works wonders on squeeky door hinges.

Edited February 22, 2007 by Rik