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Tips/Tricks/Products Used In Restoration


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for those trying to do full articulate restoration

---snip---

they are iridite treated brushed aluminum when coming from factory a clear plastic protective film covered them as well. depending on the factory it would be considered a chromate coating and arguments about whether it's iridite or clear alodine may ensue.....

---snip---

just to give some food for though...

 

https://www.finishing.com/448/95.shtml

https://www.pegasusa...nstructions.pdf

 

I just quick search my terms after the earlier post, I have not checked all the info these sites provide, but a skimming says close enough...

Edited by _The Doctor__
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Yes, those replacement case badges are way too thick with their plastic backing. I carefully sanded mine down last summer (800XL and 600XL) and used 3M 467 tape to attach them permanently.

 

Here's a before and after photo..

Very nice! How did you sand the badge and how much did you have to sand off? Looks great!

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Very nice! How did you sand the badge and how much did you have to sand off? Looks great!

To fit recessed like the original badge, the backing plastic needs to be sanded wafer thin. I did this by laying out some 400 grit on a flat surface and I placed blu tack along the top of the badge to give me something to grip to. I sanded slowly and without much pressure making sure to hold three fingers along the full length of the badge evenly to avoid the badge snagging and subsequently kinking. Luckily the backing plastic is soft and sands down quite quickly.

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  • 4 months later...

 

You can still buy a new case for 800, i.e. from B&C Computervisions: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bare-Top-Case-for-Atari-800-New/132856341797

 

If you really want to fix yours, check out this guy's blog for tips. He is an artist ? http://www.retrohax.net/extreme-refurbishing-episode-2-atari-800-xl-part-two

Edited by martinez
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
On 3/25/2014 at 9:25 AM, flashjazzcat said:

I just fixed the missing lug on the drop-down flap on the aforementioned spray-painted 1084S thus:

 

post-21964-0-32954200-1395764629_thumb.jpg

 

Drilled a 2mm dia hole about 1.5-2mm into the back of the cover (so it didn't go right through to the front), and then drove in a screw with a slightly wider thread (not self-tapping: the thread has to cut in immediately). It's surprisingly sturdy.

Nice work on this 1084S. I have one that's fortunately cosmetically pristine. It needed a power switch (done) and it needs the V-Size trimpot re-ranged (maybe add a resistor in series) to allow me enough adjustment to squeeze an entire PAL viewing area in. At min adjustment there's a bit too much in the overscan region, and there's far too much stretch for any practical purpose at max. But it also needs that lug fixed, and now I know how.

 

I have a 1950 that I repaired (PCB broken nearly in half through the HV section) but is all shades of yellow and is badly banged up to boot. I could be inspired to give it the paint after seeing your result.

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  • 10 months later...
On 12/6/2019 at 12:21 AM, rmzalbar said:

Nice work on this 1084S.

Thanks! It's still going strong, and still looks good. The catch still works as well. :)

On 12/6/2019 at 12:21 AM, rmzalbar said:

I could be inspired to give it the paint after seeing your result.

Good luck. Be sure to post photos if you do.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently purchased a really nasty 800XL through ebay and it is in dire need of a complete and thorough cleaning and restoration. the metal parts, like the function button covers and the cartridge slot covers will need a good cleaning and polishing. I found Brasso at our local Wal-Mart and it looks like it's good for all types of metal. Has anyone ever used Brasso? Any opinions?

 

Thanks.

 

Brasso.thumb.jpg.d6ad1738a77f893db6dee2d5a4e78566.jpg

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It's great on perspex to remove scratches (as long as they are not too deep) I've used it on the clear cover over the reset, option etc cover and several turntable lids.
For the aluminium buttons I have used fine grit sandpaper as they should be textured, not sure if brasso would make them too smooth 

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Anyone who was in the (U.S.) military service probably knows about Brasso. ;-) I still have a partial  can from apx 50 years ago. It removes tarnish great.  From the texture and smell, it likely has some type of rubbing compound in it. Just make sure you test it on a small area that you are trying to clean.

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/14/2020 at 1:56 AM, Larry said:

Anyone who was in the (U.S.) military service probably knows about Brasso. ;-) I still have a partial  can from apx 50 years ago. It removes tarnish great.  From the texture and smell, it likely has some type of rubbing compound in it. Just make sure you test it on a small area that you are trying to clean.

We always had Brasso in the house back in Belfast, I was tasked as a child to polish the little metal fireplace tools set (the little shovel a brush and a poker).

 

Still use it to this day but more the material soaked in it version.

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  • 4 months later...

As for desoldering (caps, ICUs etc) - I've seen people damaging pads and traces by pushing  desoldering gun into motherboard. Don't do that. Lightly touch the board, wait half a second and wiggle around for another second while sucking the solder. Also - add some fresh solder to each point before desoldering.

99% of components will fall off without any force when using desoldering gun properly.

Some components have their legs bent - in which case the technique of pulling the component while heating it has to be used..

 

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  • 10 months later...

Does anybody have a source for those little "D" shaped clips that go in the paddle controllers?  I bought a bunch of "untested" atari controllers on eBay and several of the knobs on paddles are loose.  I looked in one of them and it appears there's something in there that holds the knob on.

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Atari Parts and Service departments  of Best and B&C use the Engineering sheet for CO numbers and descriptions.. that usually helps, alternative sources were listed the forums but I can’t recall where or how it was worded…  lastly if the deep dive doesn’t do it, there are the two bastions of Atari goodness that one might approach… the garages and barns full of Atari bits and pieces ;).

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4 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

Atari Parts and Service departments  of Best and B&C use the Engineering sheet for CO numbers and descriptions.. that usually helps, alternative sources were listed the forums but I can’t recall where or how it was worded…  lastly if the deep dive doesn’t do it, there are the two bastions of Atari goodness that one might approach… the garages and barns full of Atari bits and pieces ;).

Odd - I found pictures of my other 800 which I installed an Incognito on many years ago.  The power board does not have any of these springs on it.  On the machine that does, 3 of the 4 are there.  The key without it is very easy to press accidentally - it needs the spring.  Wonder why.

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  • 1 month later...

@nitrohepcat,

super glue get brittle and flakes, I don't use it.

in a pinch I'll use elmers photo glue and adhesive...

but you might want to read this...

https://consolidatedlabel.com/label-articles/label-adhesives-guide-part-1/

 

since we are in the restoration thread.

Edited by _The Doctor__
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33 minutes ago, nitrohepcat said:

What glue do folks use to glue disk labels that have fallen off vintage 5.25" floppies? Is the same glue used for cartridge labels that have fallen off? Is Superglue Gel ok?

Been 20 years since I did this, but I would use rubber cement.  It doesn't cause paper to crinkle and remains flexible.  Use it as a contact adhesive - put a SMALL amount on the label, but also on the diskette.  Allow both surfaces to skim over and become tacky and then gently press the label back on.

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