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Tips/Tricks/Products Used In Restoration

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for those trying to do full articulate restoration

---snip---

they are iridite treated brushed aluminum when coming from factory a clear plastic protective film covered them as well. depending on the factory it would be considered a chromate coating and arguments about whether it's iridite or clear alodine may ensue.....

---snip---

just to give some food for though...

 

https://www.finishing.com/448/95.shtml

https://www.pegasusa...nstructions.pdf

 

I just quick search my terms after the earlier post, I have not checked all the info these sites provide, but a skimming says close enough...

Edited by _The Doctor__

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Yes, those replacement case badges are way too thick with their plastic backing. I carefully sanded mine down last summer (800XL and 600XL) and used 3M 467 tape to attach them permanently.

 

Here's a before and after photo..

Very nice! How did you sand the badge and how much did you have to sand off? Looks great!

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Very nice! How did you sand the badge and how much did you have to sand off? Looks great!

To fit recessed like the original badge, the backing plastic needs to be sanded wafer thin. I did this by laying out some 400 grit on a flat surface and I placed blu tack along the top of the badge to give me something to grip to. I sanded slowly and without much pressure making sure to hold three fingers along the full length of the badge evenly to avoid the badge snagging and subsequently kinking. Luckily the backing plastic is soft and sands down quite quickly.

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Also the (600XL) case has a 0.5-1.0mm raised plateau where the badge sits; you can carefully chissle that out to lower it a bit.

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Anyone here know how to repair cracks and restore pieces missing from an 800 case? I had the worst luck and dropped my 800 while moving it. 😪

 

This is an awesome topic btw.

Thanks,

Mike

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Not sure if this is widely known, spankin' new 1200xl keyboard was $30 on eBay, though "Atari" and "1200xl" were nowhere in the description,

Radio Shack catalog #277-1018.

1200.jpg

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Does anyone have a good paint colour match for the original 800 case?

 

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On 3/25/2014 at 9:25 AM, flashjazzcat said:

I just fixed the missing lug on the drop-down flap on the aforementioned spray-painted 1084S thus:

 

post-21964-0-32954200-1395764629_thumb.jpg

 

Drilled a 2mm dia hole about 1.5-2mm into the back of the cover (so it didn't go right through to the front), and then drove in a screw with a slightly wider thread (not self-tapping: the thread has to cut in immediately). It's surprisingly sturdy.

Nice work on this 1084S. I have one that's fortunately cosmetically pristine. It needed a power switch (done) and it needs the V-Size trimpot re-ranged (maybe add a resistor in series) to allow me enough adjustment to squeeze an entire PAL viewing area in. At min adjustment there's a bit too much in the overscan region, and there's far too much stretch for any practical purpose at max. But it also needs that lug fixed, and now I know how.

 

I have a 1950 that I repaired (PCB broken nearly in half through the HV section) but is all shades of yellow and is badly banged up to boot. I could be inspired to give it the paint after seeing your result.

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On 12/6/2019 at 12:21 AM, rmzalbar said:

Nice work on this 1084S.

Thanks! It's still going strong, and still looks good. The catch still works as well. :)

On 12/6/2019 at 12:21 AM, rmzalbar said:

I could be inspired to give it the paint after seeing your result.

Good luck. Be sure to post photos if you do.

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I recently purchased a really nasty 800XL through ebay and it is in dire need of a complete and thorough cleaning and restoration. the metal parts, like the function button covers and the cartridge slot covers will need a good cleaning and polishing. I found Brasso at our local Wal-Mart and it looks like it's good for all types of metal. Has anyone ever used Brasso? Any opinions?

 

Thanks.

 

Brasso.thumb.jpg.d6ad1738a77f893db6dee2d5a4e78566.jpg

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It's great on perspex to remove scratches (as long as they are not too deep) I've used it on the clear cover over the reset, option etc cover and several turntable lids.
For the aluminium buttons I have used fine grit sandpaper as they should be textured, not sure if brasso would make them too smooth 

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Anyone who was in the (U.S.) military service probably knows about Brasso. ;-) I still have a partial  can from apx 50 years ago. It removes tarnish great.  From the texture and smell, it likely has some type of rubbing compound in it. Just make sure you test it on a small area that you are trying to clean.

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On 11/14/2020 at 1:56 AM, Larry said:

Anyone who was in the (U.S.) military service probably knows about Brasso. ;-) I still have a partial  can from apx 50 years ago. It removes tarnish great.  From the texture and smell, it likely has some type of rubbing compound in it. Just make sure you test it on a small area that you are trying to clean.

We always had Brasso in the house back in Belfast, I was tasked as a child to polish the little metal fireplace tools set (the little shovel a brush and a poker).

 

Still use it to this day but more the material soaked in it version.

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As for desoldering (caps, ICUs etc) - I've seen people damaging pads and traces by pushing  desoldering gun into motherboard. Don't do that. Lightly touch the board, wait half a second and wiggle around for another second while sucking the solder. Also - add some fresh solder to each point before desoldering.

99% of components will fall off without any force when using desoldering gun properly.

Some components have their legs bent - in which case the technique of pulling the component while heating it has to be used..

 

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