Atari 410 and 1010 belts

[ianoid]

I'm not well equipped to estimate whether a 1mm difference in size will be bad for my tape unit. Will tiny differences in size make a big difference?

 

Assuming these numbers are correct (I have not ordered belts yet, but I am in the process of trying to source these), the size in inches should be:

 

Rewind: 3.82" x 1.2mm (0.47")

Fast Forward: 4.45" x 1.1mm (0.43")

Play: 7.91" x 1.2mm (0.47")

 

 

 

The CPC part numbers no longer appear to be accurate. And there don't seem to be corresponding sizes in stock for all of those.

 

Ok, listed below are the three main belts with part numbers from CPC for the Atari 410:

Rewind: 97mm x 1.2 = CPC AVBELT 69

Fast Forward: 113mm x 1.1mm = CPC AVBELT 76

Play (Main): 201mm x 1.2 mm = CPC AVBELT 100

As regards the counter belt, any small rubber band will suffice as it's non-critical.

[ACML]

Anyone know what type of belts the original 410 takes. This is the original 410 (Sanyo) that had the aluminum carry handle. See photo.

[ACML]

Good information for those with the original 410 made in Japan by Sanyo. These have the aluminum carry handle (see photo). Unlike the more common Hong Kong 410 that has three belts, this version (with carry handle) only has two belts. One main drive belt for PLAY/FF/RWD and a counter belt. So there is bad news and good news. The bad news is that the 410 belt kit is for the Hong Kong 410s. The good news is that the play belt in Magic Knight's 410 kit (3 belts) is an adequate substitute and will work on this Japanese 410. None of the three belts in the kit will work as a replacement for the counter belt in this original 410 (Japan) if that one is broke or stretched out.

Before I ordered these, I pretty much assumed they'd be different as what are the odds that a Japanese Sanyo player would use the exact same belt as one from Hong Kong. Luckily one of them is close enough to serve as the PLAY/FF/RW belt. So, I just said that I'd "take one for the team" and give it a try. Unfortunately for me, once I fixed the belt, I discovered that one of the rubber friction wheels no longer makes sufficient contact on the other wheel for FF to work. There has been some information in other 410 belt threads that claims that the two 410s share the same belts and that is just not the case.

I wanted to thank Magic Knight for having these kits available as I ordered this with eyes wide open knowing there was a chance it wouldn't work.

If there is anyone CONUS that needs a 410 belt kit, PM me and I'll send it to you.

ACML

[Irata 008]

On 9/22/2011 at 2:08 AM, Asure said:

A little OT: Anybody ever find a source for the buttons on the 1010? I have one with a few broken buttons, mostly due to 'plastic rot' since 198x.. i think with new belts & buttons, this 1010 could work.

 

13matt: I have another 1010 on the way, that would probably require new belts. If you can put me down for two sets (and cheap 'envelope+stamp' shipping to .nl) i'm up for that

Rather late for a reply but ... back in the day I found that breaking button legs was a regular occurrence on the 1010.  After forking out $$ a few replacements, I found that I could superglue the button leg back on and then glue a match stick along the leg to strengthen it.   This worked ok, but some buttons would still break again eventually requiring replacement. 
 

it now occurs to me that the fix could be to use a thin rod of hardened steel instead of the matchstick. A thin diameter 25-30mm pin head nail (the kind used for light decorative skirting boards, scotias and architraves etc) might work but I suspect you’d want something harder and less flexible. 
 

 

[+orpheuswaking]

5 hours ago, Irata 008 said:

Rather late for a reply but ... back in the day I found that breaking button legs was a regular occurrence on the 1010.  After forking out $$ a few replacements, I found that I could superglue the button leg back on and then glue a match stick along the leg to strengthen it.   This worked ok, but some buttons would still break again eventually requiring replacement. 
 

it now occurs to me that the fix could be to use a thin rod of hardened steel instead of the matchstick. A thin diameter 25-30mm pin head nail (the kind used for light decorative skirting boards, scotias and architraves etc) might work but I suspect you’d want something harder and less flexible. 
 

 

This was actually a repair that was printed in several UK Atari magazines 

[Faicuai]

Just ran out of my last set of belts for my Japan-made 1010.

 

Any place where these could still be obtained? Just want to remain supplied, as long as they last on the "shelf".

[rcamp48]

I just got a good 410 tape recorder that has everything almost mint except for the main belt, also I have 5 tapes for it, kida bumping this thread to see if anyone else has any interest in it, found a place that sells all 4 belts brand new not old stock for the Atari 410 recorder. Will post it when I find it again. Russ