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Perfect Atari ST/XE color match!


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This is My friend's "Eddie Van Halen Signature Series" A500 that he painted back in about 1989..

 

Notice the area where you rpalms rest when typing..

 

(also notice where his girlfriend scratched her name into it.)

 

This was done with Spray-can paint.

 

If you are going to paint a machine, unless your never going to use it, your better off leaving it alone, then using paint from a spray can.

 

If they ever figure out how to make a 2-part chemically activated spray can, where it mixes activator and base as it sprays, then that might be ok.

 

But the way things are now, save the spray can paint for the barbecue pit, or the lawn mower...

 

 

Cool paint job!

 

Well I doubt back in 1989 they had special spray paint for plastics, and even if they did, did your friend use this type? I doubt it.

 

I used Testors model spray paint which is designed for plastic. It should be good. If not just spray it again, LOL

 

Heh. Ill say this again. NO PAINT that is not mixed as a two part, meaning the base is the actual paint, and a catalytic "activator" is added the time that you mix/apply the paint... NO PAINT that is not chemically hardened is anything resembling durable.. Im sure the testors paint has excellent properties for adhesion to plastics. Unfortunately, that has nothing to do with the paints resistance to wear, or resistance to chemicals.. Models are not designed to be handled frequently and extensively. Even the stuff that they have NOWADAYZE that is advertised and sold for use on car interior plastic pieces and comes out of a spray can doesnt last. Its great if you plan to sell the vehicle soon.. Otherwise, take it to a trim shop where they can use a professional (once again, chemically activated) product.

Edited by MEtalGuy66
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NO PAINT that is not mixed as a two part, meaning the base is the actual paint, and a catalytic "activator" is added the time that you mix/apply the paint... NO PAINT that is not chemically hardened is anything resembling durable.

 

I'll double that. I have to handle my spray can painted 1250XLD and 1001 like raw eggs, so the don't get scratched.

The 1001 is always wrapped in a towel when going to shows, the 1250XLD has a false leather cover and a big cardbox with a styrofoam mold.

I think my laptop will go to a car paint company or something alike for its final paintjob.

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  • 2 years later...

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Here is a SF354 I modded with a 720K mech. It was also very yellow, so I decided to paint it with Testors Light Sea Gray. Turned out nice!

 

BUMP TO AN OLD THREAD!!

 

I was really wondering about this and glad you pointed to it from the XF551 thread, as I have recently had bad luck with the un-yellowing of an extremely yellowed SF314.

 

So I am going to look for a hobby store that carries yours and Wgungfu's paint. I was thinking of posting a question about this. Belated thanks for the info.

 

Question about the drive mech: What kind is it? Where did you get it? Did you have to solder in a new (longer) cable to flip it?

 

How did you get it to mount "behind" (slightly) the position of the original mech? I mean, if the faceplate of the original mech is embedded in the front wall of the drive case, and the new mech (with faceplate attached) is "behind the wall" then did you have to drill new holes in the bottom of the case for the screws to line up?

 

They do the same thing to an internal ST drive in this picture:

 

PCdrive.jpg

 

.....which is from this auction....

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 1504315980761?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=150431598076&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

.....from "atarifreakz" in the U.K.

 

Thanks for any info!

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Question about the drive mech: What kind is it? Where did you get it? Did you have to solder in a new (longer) cable to flip it?

 

It's a Chinon FZ-357 1.44MB drive. I chose it because I did not have to use a longer floppy cable or power cable. It fit perfectly. Other mechs had to have the cable "flipped" and extended.

 

How did you get it to mount "behind" (slightly) the position of the original mech? I mean, if the faceplate of the original mech is embedded in the front wall of the drive case, and the new mech (with faceplate attached) is "behind the wall" then did you have to drill new holes in the bottom of the case for the screws to line up?

 

They do the same thing to an internal ST drive in this picture:

 

PCdrive.jpg

 

Thanks for any info!

 

I did nothing, it just lined up by itself! I may have used some spacers to set the drive level but that's it!

 

I actualy just got a really yellow XF551 drive with a broken mech that I converted to a Bob Woolley 720k drive! I will be performing Retro brite on it and painting the white drive face gray with the Testors Gray paint...

Edited by tjlazer
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Well I doubt back in 1989 they had special spray paint for plastics, and even if they did, did your friend use this type? I doubt it.

 

I used Testors model spray paint which is designed for plastic. It should be good. If not just spray it again, LOL

 

They probably did. My Dad and I used to rehabilitate faded car dashboards with paints specifically designed for automotive plastics. The first time we did this was 91 or so and I didn't have the impression it was spiffy new tech then. This stuff was a bit different from the Testor's model paints. You clean the interior parts first then spray a fast drying pre-treatment which just provided a good surface for the paint that was designed for it.

 

I drove one of those cars for a few years and didn't have any problems with the paint fading or coming off.

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  • 7 years later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Just to preventief any wrong informatief: No Atari computer case ever was painted in the factors. All have their color mixed into the plastic. This false conclusion of ST cases being painted is caused by the fact that the inside of some ST computers had a red painted coating on the inside. This is conductrice paint used as a cheap and dirty alternatieve for the metal shield.

 

I've tried painting a SM125 monitor but the dolor I used turned out to be not a perfect match....although it did improve the looks of it greatly. This was a case beyond Retrobrighting. I would always try Retrobrighting first. I've had excellent results with both XL and Xe and ST. Only this SM125 came out totally blotched,.....but then again it had the worst case of yellowing.....actually more browning I've ever seen.

 

I feel paint takes away a bit of the structure of the plastic. Definitely do not sand I feel not absolutely necessary as this will take away even more of the structure.

 

 

Painting another device like a TV or monitor is of course a great idea....looks really nice!!!

I always felt it a big shame that Atari never released matching monitors to its 8 bit computer lines and this is a great idea to compensate.

 

Sadly the listed paints here are usually US only....although I do know that rustoleum painters touch is available here as well, but the cans look different and the color names or codes might differ too.

We use the RAL color system mostly here.in Europe,...anyone has a RAL code that really matched the XE/ST color ?

Edited by Level42
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Sometimes painting is the last resort. Back when I was learning how to retro-brite I got several ST cases with terrible case of 'blooming'. The only thing left to do was to paint them back to ST gray. I used both Testors colors above, and their IMOP was a perfect match. though a huge improvement to a bloomed case.

knowing that this a model paint is not meant for handling, a few coats a good quality lacquer will solve that trouble. In fact, after a good retro-brite, a couple lacquer costs should keep the case from yellowing again in our remaining life times.

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Doesn't lacquer make the result shiny ?

 

I actually found out that Rustoleum Painters touch is readily available, at least over here in The Netherlands so probably in the rest of Europe too.

 

 

http://www.rustoleumspraypaint.nl/producten/painters-touch/

 

Looks like they have the same colors too.... Steen grijs = Stone gray

 

 

By the way....4 bucks for a spray paint like that is amazingly cheap....I bet I'll pay at least twice that amount in Euros.....

 

Anyway.....gonna look to find one of those.

Edited by Level42
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  • 3 years later...
On 11/3/2017 at 8:08 PM, monzamess said:

I recently saw a suggestion that Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Stone Gray Satin is a good match for XE Gray:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Stone-Gray-Satin-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249855/205585746

 

I tried some on the monitor/TV I use with my XE and I do think it's a good match.

 

Before:

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After:

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Wow….. never thought of this approach. Tempting

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Great thread, thanks!

 

I have a 65XE, bought for parts, but whose chassis had been treated to a failed Retr0brite (or some variant) treatment and ended up looking splotchy, especially when looking at it close-up. Keyboard looks pristine. The paint job can't make it look any worse, unless I drink a quart of coffee prior to painting...

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

How much variation (if any) was there in the "Atari Gray" color from the factory? Pictured below, the 130XE looks nicer than the 1040ST, but I am not convinced any further de-yellowing efforts will make the 1040ST look like the 130XE (look at the difference in the function keys especially). It makes me wonder if the STs (or some subset of computers) just had a different variation of gray from the factory? Or am I trying to rationalize away actual yellowing on the ST?  (note: this is the same 130XE pictured above in https://atariage.com/forums/topic/106810-perfect-atari-stxe-color-match/?do=findComment&comment=3883077 )

 

stxe.thumb.png.5aaa142455ca3c6363a185137ace6364.png

 

Edited by monzamess
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13 minutes ago, monzamess said:

How much variation (if any) was there in the "Atari Gray" color from the factory? Pictured below, the 130XE looks nicer than the 1040ST, but I am not convinced any further de-yellowing efforts will make the 1040ST look like the 130XE (look at the difference in the function keys especially). It makes me wonder if the STs (or some subset of computers) just had a different variation of gray from the factory? Or am I trying to rationalize away actual yellowing on the ST?  (note: this is the same 130XE pictured above in https://atariage.com/forums/topic/106810-perfect-atari-stxe-color-match/?do=findComment&comment=3883077 )

 

stxe.thumb.png.5aaa142455ca3c6363a185137ace6364.png

 

I don't think they were the same shade of gray.    The ST in your pic looks about right based on my recollection of my ST,  although the  promotional ST images Atari used do look a bit paler/whiter:

 

front.jpg

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I remember the ST and the XE being very similar colours before the time of the STFM. Used to see the original ST in 1985 in my lunch hour. The 1040 definitely doesn't look right to me if the XE is photographed right next to it, even though the ST is getting more light on the right hand side than the XE is getting.

 

Magazine scans are of no help and nor are actual photographs because there is no guarantee of identical colour/calibration of the images. Worse still both models must be in a single photo AND both must be equally well lit. Your best bet is to see if the ITV Database Tramiel interview of 1985 is on youtube as far as comparing colours go, there is no substitute for professional light engineers in a studio. I don't like warm greys, it's the reason why I only bought Sony/Panasonic CRT TVs back then, and the ST was a cool grey not a warm grey as seen in the 1040 there. The XE looks a tiny bit too saturated in blue shift/red loss etc but it's about the comparison not the actual calibration accuracy of the image taken. The XE seems to be sitting more in shadow than the numeric keypad side of the 1040 too. I can only go by the photo, when you look at them in real life you compensate better as you can see the lighting of the entire room subconsciously not just a small area seen in the pic.

If you are interested check out the 4 computer buffs Atari ST launch video which is a professional studio lit shot of both around 3 minutes onward in the show. They should not look that different.

 

 

I don't know about the type of paint that is mentioned but I do know that my 64C I sprayed in grey-beige specialist plastic spray (Plastikote) is 100% intact on the case despite being out of a box for 15 years. I used to do custom spraying of plastics and didn't do anything special except paint designed to be used on plastic. Light even coats and plenty of dry time on a day with strong UV light helps the paint 'stick'. If you don't need a gloss finish you don't need any clear coat or thick layers of paint in a single go (so it's easy to get a clean finish). Spend most of your energy on masking things up or completely dismantling, that will show badly. I had a lot of practice as my various Ford/Vauxhall cars needed rust repairs bi-annually lol but just get a bit of card and practise your spraying. Important to make sure you spray a few seconds worth out into the air to clear the nozzle/tube of the spray cans though! Splatter is a big no no!

 

 

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Got to love that in the reporting they mention Tramiel was buying defective hard drives for cheap and then mapping out the defects and putting them in Atari products with 5 meg less storage. You have to love it because the defect list wasn't always included so if you had to low level the drive you had better be prepared for a shock when entering the generic data that the drive would normally use... ah the good old days of shaving a penny and then letting the end user deal with it later... the shear hilarity of it comes back to life after viewing this video...

Edited by _The Doctor__
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34 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

Got to love that in the reporting they mention Tramiel was buying defective hard drives for cheap and then mapping out the defects and putting them in Atari products with 5 meg less storage. You have to love it because the defect list wasn't always included so if you had to low level the drive you had better be prepared for a shock when entering the generic data that the drive would normally use... ah the good old days of shaving a penny and then letting the end user deal with it later... the shear hilarity of it comes back to life after viewing this video...

lol they had 1 year warranty so......Not really any worse than today when you buy a TV for thousands and 18 months later you can't get the parts to fix them due to built in obsolescence so have to buy another TV? People have this weird idea that corps are your friend or are doing you a favour lol Welcome to capitalism 101. 

 

Tramiel got stuffed by TI in the calculator wars due to some very dirty tactics and almost folded, Gould got his stinking claws into the company forever (and ultimately the reason why Amiga and therefore Commodore tanked in the 1990s) and then was reborn as you remember him. He was at Atari without the advantage of MOS Technology thanks to TI's dirty tactics in the calculator era.....I think you can cut him some slack. He sold you a 520STFM for the price of a shitty Amstrad 8bit computer with some duff greenscreen monitor and no TV output so as Mr Miyagi says..."you need balance" 

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12 hours ago, oky2000 said:

I remember the ST and the XE being very similar colours before the time of the STFM. Used to see the original ST in 1985 in my lunch hour. The 1040 definitely doesn't look right to me if the XE is photographed right next to it, even though the ST is getting more light on the right hand side than the XE is getting.

So they did change the tint for the STFM?    The FM was first ST model I own, and the photo OP posted is close to what I remember it being while the video you posted looks a lot lighter than I remember it.

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12 hours ago, zzip said:

So they did change the tint for the STFM?    The FM was first ST model I own, and the photo OP posted is close to what I remember it being while the video you posted looks a lot lighter than I remember it.

The problem with this sort of thing is today it's hard to get an exact colour of each computer individually unless they are all shot with studio quality camera and lighting on video properly but I only really posted that video link to show the XE,ST, mouse and SM124 casing are all the same colour. That is a VHS transfer, Thames TV have not uploaded their original broadcast quality footage to their Youtube channel but I think they do have the PCW show UK launch of 520ST on their channel. I doubt the colour difference between ST and XE would be as huge as in that pic. Minor changes in hue of casing will occur but not on that sort of level and the ST was always 'blue grey' in my memory too.

 

For the actual colour I can go and check using the BBC's own much better quality footage of Micro Live reviews of 520STM and 1040STF but they never had an XE on the show let alone side by side on camera with an ST.

 

What did surprise me though is the ST in the video there has no disk drive but it does have a cartridge. Was the ST for demoing on TV/shows supplied with prototype GEM/TOS in that cartridge instead of on disk? 

 

edit:to clarify I am not saying the ST was actually grey blue but a cold colour temperature grey compared to say the Mac and other "grey" things on sale but not 'blue' :) 

Edited by oky2000
I just watched Micro Live!
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