super famicom ac adapter substitute?

[311fan]

can you use a genesis 1 ac adapter with the super famicom?

it runs the same as a snes system (10V DC 850mA), but the end

of a super nintendo ac adapter wont plug in to the famicom. Any other adapters

from classic systems work?

[DeadlyDiskKun]

Yikes, do not use any american connector with it, it will burn up. Japan uses a difference power sequence; you will need to buy a power converter which will be around 36$ all together.

Edited May 14, 2007 by DeadlyDiskKun

[AtariJr]

yea i woudlnt shove that in your famicom..bad move bud.

[DeadlyDiskKun]

yea i woudlnt shove that in your famicom..bad move bud.

 

Very much agreement from me, I would rather him not fry it.

[JB]

Yikes, do not use any american connector with it, it will burn up. Japan uses a difference power sequence, PAL; you will need to buy a pal converter which will be around 36$ all together.

There's so much nonsense in here I'm not sure where to start.

 

A. PAL is a TV standard, not an electric standard.

 

B. Japan uses 60Hz NTSC for their TVs, not any form of PAL.

 

C. Japan's electric grid is compatible with America's(being off by about 10 volts, which is within margin of error) for the most part(Japan's power is split between 50Hz and 60).

 

D. The voltage and frequency of Japan and America's electrical grids don't matter anyways, since the power supply completely strips the oscillation and changes the voltage radically.

All that matters is that both power supplies be rated to output the same voltage and amperage. And likely not even that, since most game systems have internal voltage regulators that can handle a wide range of voltages(lets them use cheaper power supplies).

 

 

 

 

I say do it. The US SNES and Japanese SFC are electrically identical as far as I know, and the voltage regulator will handle any irregularities(9 volts, 10 volts, not a real difference there).

Hell, I've seen people claiming they made it work with an NES adapter, which outputs 9VAC and tends to kill devices that expect DC. I wouldn't recommend testing it, but if the SFC can take THAT...

Edited May 13, 2007 by JB

[311fan]

Yikes, do not use any american connector with it, it will burn up. Japan uses a difference power sequence, PAL; you will need to buy a pal converter which will be around 36$ all together.

There's so much nonsense in here I'm not sure where to start.

 

A. PAL is a TV standard, not an electric standard.

 

B. Japan uses 60Hz NTSC for their TVs, not any form of PAL.

 

C. Japan's electric grid is compatible with America's(being off by about 10 volts, which is within margin of error) for the most part(Japan's power is split between 50Hz and 60).

 

D. The voltage and frequency of Japan and America's electrical grids don't matter anyways, since the power supply completely strips the oscillation and changes the voltage radically.

All that matters is that both power supplies be rated to output the same voltage and amperage. And likely not even that, since most game systems have internal voltage regulators that can handle a wide range of voltages(lets them use cheaper power supplies).

 

 

 

 

I say do it. The US SNES and Japanese SFC are electrically identical as far as I know, and the voltage regulator will handle any irregularities(9 volts, 10 volts, not a real difference there).

Hell, I've seen people claiming they made it work with an NES adapter, which outputs 9VAC and tends to kill devices that expect DC. I wouldn't recommend testing it, but if the SFC can take THAT...

 

thank you so much for that different opinion. i knew the 110 vs 120 voltage difference, but I didn't think that was that significant since the genny adaptor is still outputting 10v 850mA like the japanese adaptor would. And the 50hz vs. 60hz thing affects the rf output not the power output. i've heard the nes adapter thing too, the AC output scared me.

[DeadlyDiskKun]

A. PAL is a TV standard, not an electric standard.

 

B. Japan uses 60Hz NTSC for their TVs, not any form of PAL.

 

C. Japan's electric grid is compatible with America's(being off by about 10 volts, which is within margin of error) for the most part(Japan's power is split between 50Hz and 60).

 

D. The voltage and frequency of Japan and America's electrical grids don't matter anyways, since the power supply completely strips the oscillation and changes the voltage radically.

All that matters is that both power supplies be rated to output the same voltage and amperage. And likely not even that, since most game systems have internal voltage regulators that can handle a wide range of voltages(lets them use cheaper power supplies).

 

 

 

 

I say do it. The US SNES and Japanese SFC are electrically identical as far as I know, and the voltage regulator will handle any irregularities(9 volts, 10 volts, not a real difference there).

Hell, I've seen people claiming they made it work with an NES adapter, which outputs 9VAC and tends to kill devices that expect DC. I wouldn't recommend testing it, but if the SFC can take THAT...

 

Trolls like you shouldn't even be allowed on Atariage...

 

Simply, the power supply isn't the same; his system will fry if he takes your advice. United States uses a different power supply then Japan. Japans power is much weaker, US uses high power which will blow the system.

 

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

Edited May 14, 2007 by DeadlyDiskKun

[FABombjoy]

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

 

Considering that the Famicom ALREADY has a 7805 regulator (which the specs say require a minimal 7.5V input), putting a 2nd regulator external to the system that brings voltage down to 5V will have negative results.

 

The difference between US and Japan voltage is 10V. I've run pleanty of Japanese supplies in US wall sockets. You should brush up on transformer theory & actually read the 7805 datasheet.

 

In short: YES, you can run a Famicom from a Genesis-1 power supply, BUT if the supply you have is rated at "10V DC 850mA", then you have a Genesis 2/32X/Nomad/Game Gear power supply w/ polarity opposite of a G1 supply, and if it fit, it probably would have damaged something.

 

Genesis-1 supplies output 9-10V @ 1.2A with the correct polarity, and I use them for both my Famicom & FDS.

[AtariJr]

A. PAL is a TV standard, not an electric standard.

 

B. Japan uses 60Hz NTSC for their TVs, not any form of PAL.

 

C. Japan's electric grid is compatible with America's(being off by about 10 volts, which is within margin of error) for the most part(Japan's power is split between 50Hz and 60).

 

D. The voltage and frequency of Japan and America's electrical grids don't matter anyways, since the power supply completely strips the oscillation and changes the voltage radically.

All that matters is that both power supplies be rated to output the same voltage and amperage. And likely not even that, since most game systems have internal voltage regulators that can handle a wide range of voltages(lets them use cheaper power supplies).

 

 

 

 

I say do it. The US SNES and Japanese SFC are electrically identical as far as I know, and the voltage regulator will handle any irregularities(9 volts, 10 volts, not a real difference there).

Hell, I've seen people claiming they made it work with an NES adapter, which outputs 9VAC and tends to kill devices that expect DC. I wouldn't recommend testing it, but if the SFC can take THAT...

 

Trolls like you shouldn't even be allowed on Atariage...

 

Simply, the power supply isn't the same; his system will fry if he takes your advice. United States uses a different power supply then Japan. Japans power is much weaker, US uses high power which will blow the system.

 

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

 

 

how was he being a troll? he was just imputing his own advice... he's full of weird knowledge most people don't know, so I'd think his opinion is actually quite respected around here.

 

also, i assumed he was talking about a PAL unit. if its a system from japan then yea, id think it shoudl be ok. i mean ive seen japanese saturns run without power converters.... and my old GBA from japan ran fine on the wall jack.

[311fan]

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

 

Considering that the Famicom ALREADY has a 7805 regulator (which the specs say require a minimal 7.5V input), putting a 2nd regulator external to the system that brings voltage down to 5V will have negative results.

 

The difference between US and Japan voltage is 10V. I've run pleanty of Japanese supplies in US wall sockets. You should brush up on transformer theory & actually read the 7805 datasheet.

 

In short: YES, you can run a Famicom from a Genesis-1 power supply, BUT if the supply you have is rated at "10V DC 850mA", then you have a Genesis 2/32X/Nomad/Game Gear power supply w/ polarity opposite of a G1 supply, and if it fit, it probably would have damaged something.

 

Genesis-1 supplies output 9-10V @ 1.2A with the correct polarity, and I use them for both my Famicom & FDS.

 

thanks for the additional advice

sorry, to clarify i used a radio shack ac adaptor that works for an snes/genesis rated at 10v 850mA. and it is a japanese ntsc console. the genny 1 adaptor would not fit, but the radio shack adaptor has adaptplugs to change out the end. i used a genny 1 adaptor for my game doctor III.

[JB]

thank you so much for that different opinion. i knew the 110 vs 120 voltage difference, but I didn't think that was that significant since the genny adaptor is still outputting 10v 850mA like the japanese adaptor would. And the 50hz vs. 60hz thing affects the rf output not the power output. i've heard the nes adapter thing too, the AC output scared me.

Yeah, the 10v difference is within the margin of error. US AC will dip that low naturally.

 

 

50/60Hz affects both, though.

The US TV standard was set at 60Hz because our AC supply was 60Hz, and matching the TV and AC cycles prevented interference.

That's also why Europe chose to go with visibly flickery 50Hz TVs.

 

It's not so much of an issue now, which is why Europe has PAL60 now, Japan can use 60Hz TVs on the 50Hz portion of their power grid, and PC CRTs can have arbitrary refresh rates.

But once upon a time...

 

 

 

 

 

And now, on to the fun part!

Trolls like you shouldn't even be allowed on Atariage...

I'm truly sorry. I thought this place was for the sharing of knowledge, not the stroking of egos. I'm also a bit embarrassed, as I've been THANKING people for correcting my misconceptions instead of calling them trolls.

 

Next time I will sit idly by and let misinformation run amok instead of correcting that which I know to be wrong, so as to preserve the self-confidence of the one offering his ill-informed opinion. And if someone corrects me, I will call their parent's lineage, fidelity, and species into question.

 

 

Simply, the power supply isn't the same; his system will fry if he takes your advice. United States uses a different power supply then Japan. Japans power is much weaker, US uses high power which will blow the system.

EUROPE's AC supply is much higher voltage.

The US supply is spec'ed to be MARGINALLY higher voltage, with tolerances that overlap japanese spec quite widely.

This slight voltage variance present CANNOT harm the system.

 

Particularly as it's on the OTHER SIDE of an AC adapter designed to output the correct voltage when fed with the US voltage. 10VDC is 10VDC, regardless of what voltage and frequency the AC used to make it was.

 

 

You MIGHT have a point if he was using a japanese 10VDC adapter, as the slightly higher incoming AC would result in the rating being off(since most bricks are unregulated).

But you don't, because it gets even better!

 

The deck came with an unregulated power supply in the first place. That means that the output voltage of the brick varies with the input voltage, rather than being locked to a specific output. And the AC grid fluctuates a good deal during normal operation. It's rarer to see the official spec voltage than it is to see a high or low one.

 

 

Let me rephrase that, in case you missed the implications here: A simple unregulated AC adapter of the type used on the SNES and Super FamiCom(indeed, on almost every game machine ever made) will almost NEVER output the specified voltage.

 

Thus, the the system HAS to be built to accept a wide range of incoming voltages. The 5% difference between the Japanese AC spec and the US AC spec is NOTHING compared to the range the voltage regulator used in the deck can handle.

 

You can use the original 100VAC->10VDC japanese supply safely, even though if fed the official 110VAC voltage of the US it WOULD output the higher voltage you're improperly concerned about a 110VAC->10VDC spec'ed brick issuing.

 

 

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

And just a regulator will allow it to work on just about any properly polarized 9-12VDC supply. Rather uncoincidentally, the SFC includes a voltage regulator.

The reason is that it enables the use of cheap unregulated power supplies. Same reason almost every game machine in history includes one(I think there's like 3 exceptions since the original Odyssey 1 shipped).

 

And the NES supply typically blows up damn near everything, not just unmodded FamiComs.

A quick search on the AtariAge boards will generate a tragic list of systems slain by the dreaded 9VAC. And a Casio keyboard or 2, if I'm not mistaken.

 

 

 

In conclusion...

Knowledge and facts: 2.

Ignorance and flames: 0.

Edited May 15, 2007 by JB

[Epicenter]

Trolls like you shouldn't even be allowed on Atariage...

 

Simply, the power supply isn't the same; his system will fry if he takes your advice. United States uses a different power supply then Japan. Japans power is much weaker, US uses high power which will blow the system.

 

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

 

You have no fucking idea what you are talking about. I have over 5 Super Famicom systems RIGHT HERE that I use on an American military base in Japan .. so the voltage *IS* 120V, 50Hz, and I use an AMERICAN MEGADRIVE POWER BRICK. Japanese ones work too. Hell, I've run such systems off *12-14v* bricks, and because the input voltage is stepped down to 5v before it reaches the system, it doesn't damage anything. You don't want to go much over 16v because the 7805 may not be able to take it, but aside from running a little warm overvolting a 7805 is usually fine, especially if it's heatsinked. Those parts can handle surprising amounts of heat without incident. Actually, I run a lot of my systems off the same sort of brick -- My FC1/FC2s work great with an MD power brick...

 

Have you ever tried what you're saying will fry the unit? No? Then shut the hell up and listen to the guy who takes these bricks/systems out of spec all the time. Hell it's practically my hobby.

Edited May 15, 2007 by Epicenter

[DeadlyDiskKun]

Trolls like you shouldn't even be allowed on Atariage...

 

Simply, the power supply isn't the same; his system will fry if he takes your advice. United States uses a different power supply then Japan. Japans power is much weaker, US uses high power which will blow the system.

 

If you run the incoming DC supply through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor and a 7805 regulator, this will allow the Famicom to work on just about any 9-12 volt power supply, and polarity, or even AC (like the NES supply, which typically blows up unmodded Famicoms).

 

You have no fucking idea what you are talking about. I have over 5 Super Famicom systems RIGHT HERE that I use on an American military base in Japan .. so the voltage *IS* 120V, 50Hz, and I use an AMERICAN MEGADRIVE POWER BRICK. Japanese ones work too. Hell, I've run such systems off *12-14v* bricks, and because the input voltage is stepped down to 5v before it reaches the system, it doesn't damage anything. You don't want to go much over 16v because the 7805 may not be able to take it, but aside from running a little warm overvolting a 7805 is usually fine, especially if it's heatsinked. Those parts can handle surprising amounts of heat without incident. Actually, I run a lot of my systems off the same sort of brick -- My FC1/FC2s work great with an MD power brick...

 

Have you ever tried what you're saying will fry the unit? No? Then shut the hell up and listen to the guy who takes these bricks/systems out of spec all the time. Hell it's practically my hobby.

Whoa, whoa.. calm down. No need to explode a few veins in you eyes. I am glad you have a hobby, but according to most sources my information was correct; I am sorry if I struck a raw nerve in your body.

[JB]

Whoa, whoa.. calm down. No need to explode a few veins in you eyes. I am glad you have a hobby, but according to most sources my information was correct; I am sorry if I struck a raw nerve in your body.

What sources told you Japan used PAL electricity?

[DeadlyDiskKun]

Whoa, whoa.. calm down. No need to explode a few veins in you eyes. I am glad you have a hobby, but according to most sources my information was correct; I am sorry if I struck a raw nerve in your body.

What sources told you Japan used PAL electricity?

 

I am from China, most of my sources are likely wrong. We are the leading country for bootlegged videogames and systems.

[Epicenter]

Whoa, whoa.. calm down. No need to explode a few veins in you eyes. I am glad you have a hobby, but according to most sources my information was correct; I am sorry if I struck a raw nerve in your body.

What sources told you Japan used PAL electricity?

 

I am from China, most of my sources are likely wrong. We are the leading country for bootlegged videogames and systems.

reverse-engineering systems and games to bootleg/clone them takes knowledge and skill .. just because such products are generally of a low grade isn't something to blame on lack of knowledge, rather lack of funds or effort. And 10 minutes on Wikipedia could've cleared up such a basic issue as power frequency vs. vertical refresh rate/video standards...

[DeadlyDiskKun]

Whoa, whoa.. calm down. No need to explode a few veins in you eyes. I am glad you have a hobby, but according to most sources my information was correct; I am sorry if I struck a raw nerve in your body.

What sources told you Japan used PAL electricity?

 

I am from China, most of my sources are likely wrong. We are the leading country for bootlegged videogames and systems.

reverse-engineering systems and games to bootleg/clone them takes knowledge and skill .. just because such products are generally of a low grade isn't something to blame on lack of knowledge, rather lack of funds or effort. And 10 minutes on Wikipedia could've cleared up such a basic issue as power frequency vs. vertical refresh rate/video standards...

 

Sad part is, We have Xbox 360 bootlegs going around already.. the "360 Geo System" as it appears in stores.

[Epicenter]

Sad part is, We have Xbox 360 bootlegs going around already.. the "360 Geo System" as it appears in stores.

Mm, it probably just has an FC cart slot hiding somewhere, though. I highly doubt the custom ASICs in the 360 are understood well enough to have been cloned so rapidly. Hell, there's so little information about the custom hardware in the XB360 and PS3 right now that you pretty much need to have a devkit to know what's actually going on in there. And I suspect most factories in China cannot fabricate such complex ICs with hundreds of millions of transistors on such a small process. There's few fabs in the world that can build such chips and it's very expensive. Yields are also commonly quite low. Long story short, it'd cost a fortune. Imitating the XB360's shell and sticking a Famicom on a Chip in there .. very cheap.

[DeadlyDiskKun]

Sad part is, We have Xbox 360 bootlegs going around already.. the "360 Geo System" as it appears in stores.

Mm, it probably just has an FC cart slot hiding somewhere, though. I highly doubt the custom ASICs in the 360 are understood well enough to have been cloned so rapidly. Hell, there's so little information about the custom hardware in the XB360 and PS3 right now that you pretty much need to have a devkit to know what's actually going on in there. And I suspect most factories in China cannot fabricate such complex ICs with hundreds of millions of transistors on such a small process. There's few fabs in the world that can build such chips and it's very expensive. Yields are also commonly quite low. Long story short, it'd cost a fortune. Imitating the XB360's shell and sticking a Famicom on a Chip in there .. very cheap.