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Zookeeper restoration project


AtariMan1976

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Your power supply has been modified. The original has a big transistor to the left of that large white cap and yours just has a red wire going there.

 

Your video wires have been cut.

maybe. I know the wires that come down offthe back off the coin box went to that but everything got pulled and ripped out when the bottom of this cab fell off a little over a year ago, but i have since repaired the bottom. As for the video, i guess i could put another plug back on the end or just find a way to get the wires to the rightr pens on the game board. Do you have a pic of an original power supply?

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Your power supply has been modified. The original has a big transistor to the left of that large white cap and yours just has a red wire going there.

 

Your video wires have been cut.

maybe. I know the wires that come down offthe back off the coin box went to that but everything got pulled and ripped out when the bottom of this cab fell off a little over a year ago, but i have since repaired the bottom. As for the video, i guess i could put another plug back on the end or just find a way to get the wires to the rightr pens on the game board. Do you have a pic of an original power supply?

Update: Its actually not a transistor but a bridge rectifier thats supposed to be there. Yours has both original. Ihave the one like yours but my other one has actually been modded to mount on the rear of the coin box using it as a huge heat sink. :ponder: The wires run down from that to the board acting as the original would. So essentially, it's still a working zookeeper power board. I will have to resolder some wires. The video i know was modded to wire direct to jamma connections. Will i be able to still use that cable??

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http://arcadeshop.com/pics/taito-ps.jpg

 

This is an integrated modern power supply with the connections to work on your classic harness. Worth the money to make it reliable if you don't already have the original.

 

Most of the Taitos died because of bad contacts, the batteries and the power supplies got overheated. I have seen MANY with burned terminals, those and Midway and Williams ones. Atari ones tended to fair better (of course they ate edge connectors).

 

HTH. Keep rocking man, you'll get that game some day. It will mean more to you than ANY other in your collection AND you'll STILL have less in it than buying one outright!

 

Cassidy

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http://arcadeshop.com/pics/taito-ps.jpg

 

This is an integrated modern power supply with the connections to work on your classic harness. Worth the money to make it reliable if you don't already have the original.

 

Most of the Taitos died because of bad contacts, the batteries and the power supplies got overheated. I have seen MANY with burned terminals, those and Midway and Williams ones. Atari ones tended to fair better (of course they ate edge connectors).

 

HTH. Keep rocking man, you'll get that game some day. It will mean more to you than ANY other in your collection AND you'll STILL have less in it than buying one outright!

 

Cassidy

Thanks for that one. may have to go with that if the original takes a dump.

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LOOKIN GOOD man!

 

I used to use an exacto blade knife strapped to a pencil with packaging tape as a guide then cut a straight line where the control panel overlay "bends" and chips off. That way I could make a clean cut on the bottom edge and touch it up with black enamel paint. I had a Galaga that looked factory fit that way (of course if you knew the game had a one piece overlay then it didn't but it was clean and true).

 

Glass looks great. Seems its really coming along nicely! Way to go! The pics are great.

 

C

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Update: Well, Yall saw what it looked like before, heres what it looks like so far as of today. Finally got my bezel glass and my control panel thanks to QuarterArcade.com. I'll eventuallyget this done. At least i can't tell it was converted into a golf game anymore. :)

 

 

VERY nice work!!! You took a hunk of shit and made it beautiful agian! You can tell from the quality and time you put in your enjoying this project and it looks great. :thumbsup:

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LOOKIN GOOD man!

 

I used to use an exacto blade knife strapped to a pencil with packaging tape as a guide then cut a straight line where the control panel overlay "bends" and chips off. That way I could make a clean cut on the bottom edge and touch it up with black enamel paint. I had a Galaga that looked factory fit that way (of course if you knew the game had a one piece overlay then it didn't but it was clean and true).

 

Glass looks great. Seems its really coming along nicely! Way to go! The pics are great.

 

C

 

 

Update: Well, Yall saw what it looked like before, heres what it looks like so far as of today. Finally got my bezel glass and my control panel thanks to QuarterArcade.com. I'll eventuallyget this done. At least i can't tell it was converted into a golf game anymore. :)

 

 

VERY nice work!!! You took a hunk of shit and made it beautiful agian! You can tell from the quality and time you put in your enjoying this project and it looks great. :thumbsup:

Thanks guys. I'm trying. Looks like i might have to wait a couple of months on the boards but i'll post here when there's an update.

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The coin processor is a copy protection device used to prevent you from putting Zoo Keeper ROMs on a Qix board or one of the other games with identical hardware. Without the coin processor board specific to your game, the game won't play (basically it scrambles the inputs from the control panel and coin door in a different way for each game).

 

The coin processor going bad is a very common problem, so the benefit of bypassing it is you don't need to find a working one when yours goes bad. You can just burn a new patched ROM for your game and disconnect the coin processor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Must be the year of the Zoo Keeper Restorations! Amazing stuff you guys have done so far. I am finishing up my restoration as well!

 

Here is mine:

 

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp...A=509&CBT=6

 

Not much for pictures up yet, but I'll be adding them soon.

 

The sides are a bit scuffed up in a few places, but I plan on leaving it as is.

 

If anyone can help, I do need some pictures. I am looking for detailed pictures of the inside. Following the Wiring Harness from the coin door to the back door, and from the back door up to the speaker/light fixture.

 

I've looked at all the pictures so far and they do give me a lot of info, but I am looking for placement information and which connectors go where.

 

Thanks!

Edited by Arcadenut
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I like restoring them just as much as playing them.

 

I'm on a crazy deadline for 16 different things, but I can take s'more pics of mine when it's over if nobody beats me to it.

 

Cool! The thing that concerns me right now is I am using a QIX harness and I think I might have to make an additional part for the ROM board, but I'm not sure. I have two connectors left labeled P3 and P4, however, I think those should be going to the Power Supply and not the ROM board.

 

I think I'll need to build some custom Ribbon Cables too, which hopefully won't be too bad.

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Yes, but it won't do you any good because I've replaced mine with a PC-AT power supply. That picture in post #27 above is of the old dead one I pulled out.

 

ok, let me ask you this then :)

 

Did you modify the harness or did you build an adapter? What are the connectors labeled that connect to the power supply?

 

Thanks for all your help so far!

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I built an adapter. They are called P3 and P4. Both of the connectors on the power supply have the same pinout so it doesn't matter which you plug where.

 

Pic of my adapter, made out of a Taito filter board, attached for shits and giggles.

 

Thanks, that's what I needed. For some reason, I'm not getting notified of replys :(

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