Requesting help in repairing 2 dead Super Nintendo decks

[SINGLE TOOTH]

Just to be sure, is it the negative lead I should put on the Ground pin of the voltage regulator? What would happen to it if I place the leads on the pins in the wrong order?

Nothing will happen, it will just show you the polarity is reversed. Anyway, yes the negitive lead goes to the ground middle pin of the regulator.

[Ace_1]

DAMN IT!!!!!!!!!!! I got distracted and shorted the damn voltage regulator!!! And it was the discolored one! DAAAAAAAAAMMMNNN!!!! Now what? By the way, both console's regulators gave a reading. Now the discolored one won't power on anymore!!! CRAAAAAP!!!!!!!!! And the pin is melting into a brown liqiud on pin 3! Now I'll never get it working ever again! By the way, how can I fix the constant black screen on the other system? We'll ignore the discolored one, because I killed it because of my own stupidity.

Edited August 31, 2007 by Ace_1

[SINGLE TOOTH]

DAMN IT!!!!!!!!!!! I got distracted and shorted the damn voltage regulator!!! And it was the discolored one! DAAAAAAAAAMMMNNN!!!! Now what? By the way, both console's regulators gave a reading. Now the discolored one won't power on anymore!!! CRAAAAAP!!!!!!!!! And the pin is melting into a brown liqiud on pin 3! Now I'll never get it working ever again! By the way, how can I fix the constant black screen on the other system? We'll ignore the discolored one, because I killed it because of my own stupidity.

 

How much voltage was it putting out, before you shorted it? you may be able to get a replacement at radio sack. But it may not be worth it, if the system is fried anyway..

 

Wait, the one you shorted out, the regulator is still giving a reading? Hm, then its fried for good.

Edited August 31, 2007 by SINGLE TOOTH

[Ace_1]

No, the voltage regulator no longer gets a reading now that I fried it. But, for now, focus on the normally colored one, the one that gives absolutely no image. Another PPU problem, I suppose?

[Ace_1]

Guys, I think I found what "killed" the SNES in the good casing(the one that never gives an image): rust. I found rust hiding on 8 pins of PPU 1 on the board(where the 2 join), as well as 2 pins of the A/V out(where it connects to the board). I sure hope it hasn't reached the board itself(the rust's on the solder, mind you). If it didn't I'll see if I can swap PPU 1 from both boards. Unless I desolder the rusted pins and apply some new solder...

[Ace_1]

Anyone? I'm running out of options here! How can I fix the black screen on my normally colored SNES?

[atarilovesyou]

not to hijack, but how can you tell if you have a series one or two?..other than the discoloration?..I thought that only occurred from long periods of sun exposure. Can anyone fill me in?

[MFoolsRun]

not to hijack, but how can you tell if you have a series one or two?..other than the discoloration?..I thought that only occurred from long periods of sun exposure. Can anyone fill me in?

 

Unless I'm wrong, you're asking how to tell the difference between an SNES and an SNES2?

 

They look different:

 

SNES

 

SNES2

[atarilovesyou]

..whoops, my bad, I thought you guys were talking about NES decks. I've noticed the discoloration of NES's and was wondering what the cause was, I figured it was just lack of cleaning and direct sunlight exposure over the years. Sorry!

[SINGLE TOOTH]

..whoops, my bad, I thought you guys were talking about NES decks. I've noticed the discoloration of NES's and was wondering what the cause was, I figured it was just lack of cleaning and direct sunlight exposure over the years. Sorry!

 

No it's not because of either of those. Bad plastic batches are the cause.

[Ace_1]

Guys, I think I might have a new development on the normally colored SNES. Did I mention it was not giving out video AND audio? I believe that the A/V signal(and in the RF Unit as well) is too weak, and the problem might not be related to the PPU. I can see the white bar when I power on the system, but then I get no audio and no video. BUT, here's where I think the A/V signal is too weak, when I reset the system, I get the usual diagonal lines that straighten, then it goes back to a black screen with no audio. Could my A/V out and RF unit be shot? I found more rust on the A/V outs where they meet the board(looks like it suffered water damage from the high amount of rust I'm discovering, it's also on the front heat sink). Would swapping the RF Unit and A/V out from the discolored one help? It gets a signal, but one that is not right. Who had that problem with their SNES in which it would give no audio or video and not respond to controller inputs(which, by the way, the discolored one didn't before I shorted the voltage regulator)?

[SINGLE TOOTH]

Do you have any spare tops of the case?

 

You may as well try swapping the RF, you have nothing to lose.

Edited September 14, 2007 by SINGLE TOOTH

[Ace_1]

By spare tops, do you mean an extra top half of the casing? If it's the case it's been replaced by the one that had the discolored bottom(the one I call "discolored"). Is that what you meant?

[SINGLE TOOTH]

yeah thats what I meant. what about the discolored case? do you have that top?

Edited September 14, 2007 by SINGLE TOOTH

[Ace_1]

No, so now 1's 100% discolored and the other is 100% gray. But, I MIGHT give up on this because one of my local flea markets has 2 discolored Model 1 SNESes with no hookups(doeen't matter, I already have them). Only problem is that I have no idea if they work. How much should I offer the guy for it? About 5 bucks Canadian? If they don't power on, it's an easy fix for me(got 2 working fuses), same with games not working(got 2 62-pin connectors). Basically, if I get one of those, I'll break off the lockout tabs and use my 2 "dead" ones for spare parts.

Edited September 15, 2007 by Ace_1

[SINGLE TOOTH]

No, so now 1's 100% discolored and the other is 100% gray. But, I MIGHT give up on this because one of my local flea markets has 2 discolored Model 1 SNESes with no hookups(doeen't matter, I already have them). Only problem is that I have no idea if they work. How much should I offer the guy for it? About 5 bucks Canadian? If they don't power on, it's an easy fix for me(got 2 working fuses), same with games not working(got 2 62-pin connectors). Basically, if I get one of those, I'll break off the lockout tabs and use my 2 "dead" ones for spare parts.

 

5 bucks sounds about right. If the guy acts a fool, tell him that they are untested, and come with no hookups.

[Ace_1]

Actually, I want to BUY the system FROM him, not sell my dead ones.

Edited September 15, 2007 by Ace_1

[SINGLE TOOTH]

Actually, I want to BUY the system FROM him, not sell my dead ones.

 

Yeah. That's what I'm talking about.

[Ace_1]

Right, I got ya. But would you say that $60 for one is too much considering the fact that you don't know whether the system is with or without hookups(another flea market close to where I live sells used SNESes for $60, and right next to that are FC Twins selling for $80(NESes cost $50))? I think so. If I find a SNES Mini at that place(not the overpriced one), how much should I offer the guy?

[SINGLE TOOTH]

I dunno, are they tested? Hookups? $60 seems like a lot to me...30-40 if it has controllers, hookups.

[Ace_1]

I really have no idea, that's why I wouldn't pay $60 for a used system if I don't even know it works or even has hookups. I had found two with all hookups, one was $60, but it was a discolored Model 1(yuck, and plus it had an RF UNIT and not A/V cables), and another one was $70, with the same stuff, except that this one looked like it was a Model 2(the one with the smaller board), it was all gray.

[Ace_1]

Schematics, anyone? I'd like to see how the video signal in the SNES goes from the PPUs to the A/V outs and RF unit. There might be a problem there.