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phaxda

Will a toaster NES power supply work with a top-loader?

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Hi,

 

My question is the topic...this is a hard thing to Google! So I thought I would ask people who might well know the answer. I hope it is yes, otherwise I am going to need to find a power supply...

 

Thanks for any help.

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Hi,

 

My question is the topic...this is a hard thing to Google! So I thought I would ask people who might well know the answer. I hope it is yes, otherwise I am going to need to find a power supply...

 

Thanks for any help.

The Wikipedia entry for the top loader lists a few of its differences and doesn't include the power supply.

 

This page says the NES2 power supply is an 120V 60Hz 17W Output 9V 1.3A, part number NES-002, which is the same listed on this page for the NES1.

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Sweet, then I am happy with my purchase! I bought a top-loader for the same price (sans power supply) that I sold a toaster for. I am sick of messing around with 72-pin replacements and all of that. I replaced the pin and it worked for a few weeks and today it started blinking again and THAT WAS IT. Hit the cheapest BIN I could find, but did not notice it was absent a power supply.

 

 

 

It uses the same one...there's only one NES power supply.

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Sweet, then I am happy with my purchase! I bought a top-loader for the same price (sans power supply) that I sold a toaster for. I am sick of messing around with 72-pin replacements and all of that. I replaced the pin and it worked for a few weeks and today it started blinking again and THAT WAS IT. Hit the cheapest BIN I could find, but did not notice it was absent a power supply.

 

 

 

It uses the same one...there's only one NES power supply.

 

The lack of A/V (and the price, obviously) out is keeping me away from the top-loaders. I have all my systems hooked up through a (pair of) switcher(s), including my 2600, which I'm sending through an old VCR (free!) to demodulate the signal.

 

Do you have a solution for that, or are you going to use RF?

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I just use RF. My gaming TV doesn't have A/V inputs and with the direct connectors, I don't think the picture is THAT bad. Certainly not as good as A/V is, but I played using RF as a kid and was just fine with it...still OK with me today. I mean, I am playing all these games on a big ol' bubblebox of a TV anyway. I can handle a little interference.

 

Darn, now that you have pointed it out I am totally noticing the RF patterns as I play my 7800! Curses.

 

 

 

Sweet, then I am happy with my purchase! I bought a top-loader for the same price (sans power supply) that I sold a toaster for. I am sick of messing around with 72-pin replacements and all of that. I replaced the pin and it worked for a few weeks and today it started blinking again and THAT WAS IT. Hit the cheapest BIN I could find, but did not notice it was absent a power supply.

 

 

 

It uses the same one...there's only one NES power supply.

 

The lack of A/V (and the price, obviously) out is keeping me away from the top-loaders. I have all my systems hooked up through a (pair of) switcher(s), including my 2600, which I'm sending through an old VCR (free!) to demodulate the signal.

 

Do you have a solution for that, or are you going to use RF?

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I've noticed the Nintendo RF is way better than Atari RF.

I can tolerate Nintendos being hooked up via RF, but Ataris seem to get tons of interferences.

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I've noticed the Nintendo RF is way better than Atari RF.

I can tolerate Nintendos being hooked up via RF, but Ataris seem to get tons of interferences.

 

My 2600 has visible and audible "buzz" in its signal. Going through the above-mentioned VCR actually cleans it up a tiny bit (the audible gets a little quieter) but I pretty much have to play on mute until I can figure out what's wrong.

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You can even use the Snes one.

 

If you are referring to the power supply, this won't work - the SNES power supply's plug won't fit in the power jack of the NES.

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