Jump to content
Philsan

XF551 PAL

Recommended Posts

I post this topic because at long last I’ve solved the problem and I want save time to people that in the future may have the same troubles (sorry for my English).

The solution is in the last line.

 

I have connected a new Atari XF551 disk drive from USA to a PAL Atari 130XE.

The drive boots slowly (the sound is "beep - brrrrr - beep - brrrrr" instead of "beep beep beep beep") and sometimes with boot errors.

After having changed different PAL computers, SIO cables, floppy disks, PSUs, the problem remains.

Thanks to MEtalGuy66, I have discovered that the two SIO connectors at the back of the XF551 drives are soldered in place by the actual conductive leads and nothing else.

As a result of plugging and un-plugging cables over time, and since the conductive leads are only soldered to one side of the board, the solder joints crack and become unreliable.

My drive was supposed to be new but anyway I’ve sent the mainboard to MEtalGuy66 who has checked it and removed Atari poor solder and soldered the SIO connectors.

A perfect work, both aesthetically and functionally, but my problem still remains.

Then I have installed an Hyper XF eprom (also burned by MEtalGuy66) and the drive works (apart the fact that it’s unable to format in DSDD with AtariDOS XE); this rom image works perfectly both in Europe and America.

A supposed to be PAL eprom didn’t work (after 10 seconds the drive mechanic starts doing some horrible noises); I’ve found that it was an NTSC rom patched for a 3.5 drive!

Finally I’ve received from JR> a real PAL rom image (I attach it), classics has quickly burned it for me and now my XF551 works perfectly!

 

So, if you want to use an American XF551 drive with a PAL Atari, you have to change the original NTSC rom with an eprom containing the attached PAL image (or, if you prefer, an Hyper XF image).

XF551pal.zip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure it couldn't be fixed with the speed potmeter? I remember having 1050's from US and they did not have same speed as PAL ones. Just tune it (I use DOS 2.6f) and all was well. Don't know if the XF551 has the same potmeter, but if it does, you could try

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I post this topic because at long last I’ve solved the problem and I want save time to people that in the future may have the same troubles (sorry for my English).

The solution is in the last line.

 

I have connected a new Atari XF551 disk drive from USA to a PAL Atari 130XE.

The drive boots slowly (the sound is "beep - brrrrr - beep - brrrrr" instead of "beep beep beep beep") and sometimes with boot errors.

After having changed different PAL computers, SIO cables, floppy disks, PSUs, the problem remains.

Thanks to MEtalGuy66, I have discovered that the two SIO connectors at the back of the XF551 drives are soldered in place by the actual conductive leads and nothing else.

As a result of plugging and un-plugging cables over time, and since the conductive leads are only soldered to one side of the board, the solder joints crack and become unreliable.

My drive was supposed to be new but anyway I’ve sent the mainboard to MEtalGuy66 who has checked it and removed Atari poor solder and soldered the SIO connectors.

A perfect work, both aesthetically and functionally, but my problem still remains.

Then I have installed an Hyper XF eprom (also burned by MEtalGuy66) and the drive works (apart the fact that it’s unable to format in DSDD with AtariDOS XE); this rom image works perfectly both in Europe and America.

A supposed to be PAL eprom didn’t work (after 10 seconds the drive mechanic starts doing some horrible noises); I’ve found that it was an NTSC rom patched for a 3.5 drive!

Finally I’ve received from JR> a real PAL rom image (I attach it), classics has quickly burned it for me and now my XF551 works perfectly!

 

So, if you want to use an American XF551 drive with a PAL Atari, you have to change the original NTSC rom with an eprom containing the attached PAL image (or, if you prefer, an Hyper XF image).

Hi Guys,

 

I know this is an old post but hopefully someone might be able to help me.

 

I have this exact same problem as Philsan. Unfortunately I am not a tech guru (can do basic stuff) so I am not sure how to go about getting an eprom with the PAL image let alone installing it. I am also in New Zealand which probably doesn't help. Would anyone be able to help me out with doing this? Or give me step by step instructions?

 

Cheers

 

Rel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks SoulBuster that is useful as I now know where the EPROM is when I need to switch it out. The problem is I have no way of getting a chip or programming it with the Pal image that Philsan has above. I am hoping that someone might be able to do this for me :) I would be willing to pay any cost associated with it too :)

 

Rel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

 

I know this is an old post but hopefully someone might be able to help me.

 

I have this exact same problem as Philsan. Unfortunately I am not a tech guru (can do basic stuff) so I am not sure how to go about getting an eprom with the PAL image let alone installing it. I am also in New Zealand which probably doesn't help. Would anyone be able to help me out with doing this? Or give me step by step instructions?

 

Cheers

 

Rel

Just ask to AtariAge user classics (http://www.atarimax.com/) to burn and send to you the eprom; you only need to exchange it (it is not soldered).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "ntsc" rom is actually a stuffup (feature) of the xf551. The timing loop to recieve serial data on the drive needs 1 extra cycle to be added which is what the "pal" version does. However you will find the pal version will also work with ntsc consols. There is another error in the rom to do with setting up for formating a disk. It however isnt serious so is not a big issue.

 

James

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is about a 50/50% chance that that rom will be soldered in.. In which case, a competant experienced person needs to desolder it, or you WILL (not might) f@ck up the PCB.. Those PCBs are the absolute crappiest quality atari ever used on anything. A little too much heat, or even too much time applying heat to one of those joints, and the pad will literally just fall off the board. They SUCK..

 

Best to open the drive, and check if the ROM is in a socket before you go any further. If the rom is not socketed, youd be best to go ahead and ship the unit to a guy who can do the desoldering/socket installation and burn the eprom all in one shot. He can also check for issues with the SIO connectors and resolder/reenforce them as necessary.

 

oh and BTW.. The ROm you want is the HyperXF-A.. not that crappy factory PAL rom.. Who the hell uses AtariDOS XE? Noone.. The HyperXF gives you true Ultraspeed operation, compatable with the vast majority of DOSes and Apps that support ultraspeed on the 1050.. It also fixes all the crap problems that occur (requiring you to press reset) when you remove a floppy and insert one of a different density than the first.. HyperXF handles this seamlessly. And there is a ton of other added features that I wont go into here.. It is a WAAAAAAY better ROM in every possible scenario than Atari's factory ROM.

Edited by MEtalGuy66
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 to Metal's comments. If it was me, I would just use snips to cut all the legs off the ROM so the individual pins could be pulled easier then the whole IC. False economy to try and save a ~$1 EPROM and ruin a $200 drive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Thanks MetalGuy66 :) I craked open the case this morning and luckily it is the socket version (see photo)

XF551



So I'm pleased about that as I didn't fancy shipping it overseas to have it done, it would have been expensive from NZ :) I have found an ebay action that sells them but just want to check that this is correct before I do.
Here is the listing:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-XF551-Disk-Drive-Firmware-upgrade-ROM-chip-XE-XL%2F130978444429%3F_trksid%3Dp2047675.m1850%26_trkparms%3Daid%253D222002%2526algo%253DSIC.FIT%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D11%2526meid%253D942236753228657860%2526pid%253D100011%2526prg%253D1005%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D5%2526sd%253D130973128302%2526

If it isn't the correct one do you know where I can source one from?

 

In regard to the SIO ConnectorsI might see if I can find someone local who could do it as that's a good idea too from what I have read.

Once again thanks for all your help with this I really appreciated it.

Cheers

Rel

Edited by reliant73

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. That seller is TJLazer on this forum. When you buy it, just specify which rom version you want.

 

There are two different HyperXF roms.. The A version is for the 5.25" mech. The B version is for the 3.5" mech.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

 

Just a quick update. I got my chip today and installed it. I now have a fully working XF551 running the HyperXF-A yay :) Thanks to everyone who helped me out in this post and TJLazer for sending the chip.

 

Cheers!

 

Rel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh and one more thing. If I was to buy a US 1050 would I need to mod it in a similar way to work on my PAL 800XL and 130XE? Would the Happy Mod be the solution?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I picked up a US XF551 to use here in sunny Europe with my PAL 130XE not realizing there was a difference in the ROM and the current 120VAC US power supply.

 

Can I upgrade it to a HyperXF PAL ROM ? ROM is socked so that part is easy.

 

Which power-supply should I get to use here in the EU ? NES Power supply is a no-go ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you can upgrade to Hyper XF551 rom.

 

No no to the NES.

 

You need 9 Volts AC at 3 amps, or a travel converter

to knock down your 240 to 120 and use the power supply

that came with it? Travel converter should weigh about

the same as US power supply to ensure it's big enough

to handle the task.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No no to the NES.

 

NES power supply is 9-11VAC, and depending on amps it should work (1.0A is not enough). I have read others have used it with success. Stock power supply is 3.4A, so even if it works, beware a lower amp PSU could burn out over time.

 

SNES power supply is DC, will not work with 1050. It has a different connector anyway.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I picked up a US XF551 to use here in sunny Europe with my PAL 130XE not realizing there was a difference in the ROM and the current 120VAC US power supply.

 

Which power-supply should I get to use here in the EU ? NES Power supply is a no-go ?

 

I would suggest to buy a new, 220/230 volts compatible power supply instead of a 230 => 115 volt converter. You can get a good replacement power supply at Amazon, search for "Rockpower 9V AC". You will find a 2.1A AC power supply for around 18 Euros. When using Amazon UK you can order it with the UK plug instead of the Euro standard plug.

 

2.1A is absolutely enough for any 1050 with or without expansions, you don´t need really 3A.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I would suggest to buy a new, 220/230 volts compatible power supply instead of a 230 => 115 volt converter. You can get a good replacement power supply at Amazon, search for "Rockpower 9V AC". You will find a 2.1A AC power supply for around 18 Euros. When using Amazon UK you can order it with the UK plug instead of the Euro standard plug.

 

2.1A is absolutely enough for any 1050 with or without expansions, you don´t need really 3A.

Not sure about the 1Amp issue. There was just a recent thread on here about a 1050 failing format but otherwise mostly working. Turned out to be a weak power supply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you miss read... he is suggesting 2.1 amp not 1 amp... unless I've miss read... with as bleary as my vision is being atm It could be me... I wonder who is Ms. Read anyway :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you miss read... he is suggesting 2.1 amp not 1 amp... unless I've miss read... with as bleary as my vision is being atm It could be me... I wonder who is Ms. Read anyway :)

My apologies - it seems I really DO need new glasses. I hate the ones I have had since last year - I'll never get progressive lenses again.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My apologies - it seems I really DO need new glasses. I hate the ones I have had since last year - I'll never get progressive lenses again.

I can't say for sure, because I have never tried them. If they are as good as the adverts say, then I would like to try them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...