So.... I finally went out to pick up a Colecovision

[DragonmasterDan]

Wow. Now I feel like a fool....for buying the one that works

 

In the future I will strictly buy non-working ones and build supersystems

 

Of course, I'm joking because as soon as I get one that works, I probably won't think about it again...but I am glad to hear about at least two of the common issues being with the on/off switch, or the faulty RF signal....I think I could handle fixing that...

 

crossing my fingers and hoping for the best.

 

Similar situation here, just hoping for the best when I get it.

[doubledown]

Very, very nice. How much time did all that take?

 

I honestly don't remember, but quite a bit of time. I can tell you that I sold it for over $400.00 though.

[ColecoNation]

I must be VERY lucky when it comes to ColecoVision consoles, because I've only had good experiences with the two that I own.

 

I've been using the same ColecoVision since my dad bought it for me new back in 1984. I've never needed to do any maintenance or repair to it. I just plug it in, turn it on, and play.

 

I bought my second console off of eBay a few years ago for dirt cheap, because the seller said it was not working. I really bought the auction because it came with the complete box and the dust cover. It turns out that it worked fine, it just needed a new RF modulator from Radio Shack...

 

+ Nathan

[Rik]

Thats right,not all CV are non working or unstable,i found one at thrift last summer that was immaculate and rock solid,i forgot to add.You can get lucky a few times and find good ones.I've never found a non-working CV,just ones that have shakey rf modulator conections,on the console.It just makes me realize the atari consoles where built rock solid,especially the heavy 6 of course.Except maybe the 2600 Jr.,which was built rather cheaply also.The only thing I,ve found for the CV that was non working 70% of the time were the power supplys,in my experience.

[Mark2008]

To my surprise I got both colecovisions today, they were setting on my doorstep...one from UPS the other from FedEx.

 

And...they both work.

 

Can you believe that, the as-is, untested unit from the e-bay auction... only had a bad rf cable... and if the guy had never added the rf modulator, as he said...then he probably didn't know that.

 

But used the rf cable from the other unit, and wa-la...it worked... in fact, on the whole that unit looks very much cleaner than the one sold as working.

 

Now, I didn't play them long enough to know for sure that they don't have any video freezing issues from extended play.

And the first one...the one that was sold as working, did freeze up once. However, it could also be a loose cartridge or something else, until I get it all cleaned up and play them for a while...won't know for sure on that.

 

but my initial reaction is I got at least one good unit. Wow, they are absurdly large.

[RJ]

Wow, they are absurdly large.

 

heh- I've wondered if you could just slice off the leftmost controller storage area of the unit, effectively cutting it in half...not that I would/could do it, of course.

 

Is there any vital circuitry in that part or is it all just casing?

[doubledown]

No there is nothing underneath the controller wells. The only thing in the console that is left of the on/off switch is the power jack.

[Prodos8]

Wow, they are absurdly large.

 

heh- I've wondered if you could just slice off the leftmost controller storage area of the unit, effectively cutting it in half...not that I would/could do it, of course.

 

Is there any vital circuitry in that part or is it all just casing?

Yeah that's been done, someone effectively made a CVjr. I saw a write up on the 'net about it a few years ago. They just had to relocate the controller jacks and the power plug.

[Bruce Tomlin]

heh- I've wondered if you could just slice off the leftmost controller storage area of the unit, effectively cutting it in half...not that I would/could do it, of course.

I've seen that done at least once, but apparently you need to be very precise with your cuts to keep it from looking like crap.

[DragonmasterDan]

Well, I finally received my colecovision. It works!

 

A few notes, even I was surprised by how big it was. I do now realize I have in fact played a Colecovision years ago when I was a wee lad but it's been so many years that my recollection is quite hazy.

 

First off, the controllers are worse than I expected, I thought they were intellivision like. This is much, much worse.

 

Next off, despite a scratch over the front part my Colecovision is in shockingly good aesthetic shape. I'm really surprised for what I paid. Which also brings to the point that the seller definitely lost out just in shipping it, he definitely underestimated the shipping cost.

 

Anyway, I noticed the picture is definitely clearer on my 7800 (I even tried using the same cord and tv switch box) is this typical?

[Recycled]

Congratulations on the working CV.

 

The picture my current CV produces is crystal clear. My last cv had garbled graphics.

[DragonmasterDan]

Congratulations on the working CV.

 

The picture my current CV produces is crystal clear. My last cv had garbled graphics.

 

My problem isn't garble it's just like it has more static interference than say my 7800. Maybe it has weaker RF shielding?

[Recycled]

Congratulations on the working CV.

 

The picture my current CV produces is crystal clear. My last cv had garbled graphics.

 

My problem isn't garble it's just like it has more static interference than say my 7800. Maybe it has weaker RF shielding?

 

 

I assume you wiggled all the cables around?

 

That's the best I can do....I'll now defer this to more technological astute board members.

[DragonmasterDan]

Congratulations on the working CV.

 

The picture my current CV produces is crystal clear. My last cv had garbled graphics.

 

My problem isn't garble it's just like it has more static interference than say my 7800. Maybe it has weaker RF shielding?

 

 

I assume you wiggled all the cables around?

 

That's the best I can do....I'll now defer this to more technological astute board members.

 

Yep, it's not bad. It's just noticably more staticy than the 7800 (I haven't pulled out my VCS to compare with though).

 

Anyway, what controller options are there. I know there's the "Super Action Controller" or something. How is it?

[RJ]

You can actually use Atari 9-pin sticks like those for the 2600/7800/8-bits, even Genesis pads. Some situations are flaky, & every configuration wont always work. Some games go into pause mode when certain directions are pressed.

 

I have a PointMaster joystick that works great for Time Pilot, but a Genesis controller activates the pause mode when pressed to the right.

 

Long story short, the Super Action controllers are great & recommended, certain games (Front Line & some sports titles) are designed for them.

[DragonmasterDan]

You can actually use Atari 9-pin sticks like those for the 2600/7800/8-bits, even Genesis pads. Some situations are flaky, & every configuration wont always work. Some games go into pause mode when certain directions are pressed.

 

I have a PointMaster joystick that works great for Time Pilot, but a Genesis controller activates the pause mode when pressed to the right.

 

Long story short, the Super Action controllers are great & recommended, certain games (Front Line & some sports titles) are designed for them.

 

How would I start a game without being able to press the numeric pad.

 

Added in edit: I should probably note that presently the only game I have is Donkey Kong which requires it. I'm guessing not all games require you to press a number when you start?

Edited December 31, 2007 by DragonmasterDan

[RJ]

A 2nd controller in port 2 works for that (IIRC, not sure in all cases). If you only have 1 CV controller, you need one w/ a keypad.

 

As I said, there are several different configurations that work, but it's prob. best just to use the SA controller(s).

[DragonmasterDan]

A 2nd controller in port 2 works for that (IIRC, not sure in all cases). If you only have 1 CV controller, you need one w/ a keypad.

 

As I said, there are several different configurations that work, but it's prob. best just to use the SA controller(s).

 

SA controller= Standard Atari or?

 

Added in edit: Ehhh, I realize you mean Super Action. Nevermind.

Edited January 1, 2008 by DragonmasterDan

[DragonmasterDan]

I tried the controller port trick and a Gen controller to no avail (it actually doesn't recognize the CV button presses with the gen controller in either slot). I'll try a 2600 stick next.

[panamajoe]

I tried the controller port trick and a Gen controller to no avail (it actually doesn't recognize the CV button presses with the gen controller in either slot). I'll try a 2600 stick next.

 

 

I´m using a Atari Euro-Joypad and an Y-cable (so that i can hook up the Coleco-Controller and the Atari in Port one at the same time). => works great!

[Vic George 2K3]

...and it was so heavy, I had to rent a U-Haul to bring it home!

[DragonmasterDan]

I tried the controller port trick and a Gen controller to no avail (it actually doesn't recognize the CV button presses with the gen controller in either slot). I'll try a 2600 stick next.

 

 

I´m using a Atari Euro-Joypad and an Y-cable (so that i can hook up the Coleco-Controller and the Atari in Port one at the same time). => works great!

 

I have the Euro joypad but no Y cable at my disposal.

[Jess Ragan]

I have a PointMaster joystick that works great for Time Pilot, but a Genesis controller activates the pause mode when pressed to the right.

 

Installing a joystick port into your Coleco controller clears that right up. Only problem is that you lose the second controller button, but not many ColecoVision games take advantage of it, so it's no great loss.

[Prodos8]

If you're having fuzzy video/audio there's a little pot inside the the RF modulator you can adjust. Before I AV modded mine I had to fiddle with it every so often as it kept drifting out of tune for some reason. Its a bit fragile so be careful adjusting it.