Fixing a NES! HOW?

[igorr]

I went on to a website that said if I took my nes apart, took the metal brace thing off, took the 16 pin thing off (is it more than 16? I dont even remember), and bend them up a bit, that should fix the problem. It did not. I bought a big lot of nes, sega, and atari stuff. I am in the process of repairing two ataris and 4-5 nintendos. But I cant seem to fix them. Any pointers?? Thanks

[Roloking]

You can't really fix the 72-pin connector by bending some pins around. You're going to have to either replace the whole 72-pin or just disable the lockout chip which helps sometimes. I would suggest just replacing the pins its REALLY easy to do and almost always makes the nes 100%.

[igorr]

You can't really fix the 72-pin connector by bending some pins around. You're going to have to either replace the whole 72-pin or just disable the lockout chip which helps sometimes. I would suggest just replacing the pins its REALLY easy to do and almost always makes the nes 100%.

 

 

Ok, so How do you replace the pins? DO you mean buying a whole new pin set up thing? Also, how do you disable the lockout chip-? Thanks for your help!!

[Roloking]

Yes I mean replacing the whole pin connector. They usually cost $10-ish with shipping.

This is a pretty decent guide to disabling the lock-out chip I found when I did a google search just now.

http://www.vgrc.net/articles-559.html

 

Here, I googled this too. I havn't heard anything bad about this website but im pretty sure some other AA memebers know some where to get these cheaper.

http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/shopexd.asp?id=63

Edited February 12, 2008 by Roloking

[igorr]

COol. So in your opinion, would it be worth it to buy about 5 of them, just to fix systems to sell on ebay or something, or to just dump them on as is??

 

What about that lockout chip thing you said before?

[Roloking]

Just look around on ebay and see if repaired systems sell for enough for you to make a good profit after paying for the 72-pin connectors.

 

Disabling the lock out chip is something I would do to my personal system but I wouldn't sell it to someone without asking them if they want it disabled.

[nathanallan]

Thanks for the link. I was wondering about the lockout chip, myself. And the glass top of the NES is sweet, I might do that one.

 

Also, I repaired mine by replacing the slot, but it still goes to blinking sometimes. Any idea why? Like, I can put the game in fully and click it down, and it won't work, but if I leave it UP and not clicked down it plays??? What's up with that?

 

Nathan

Edited February 12, 2008 by nathanallan

[MFoolsRun]

I've actually fixed four or five NESes with the pin-bending trick combined with a good cleaning and disabling the lockout chip. I've definitely had cases where the connector was just shot, but a lot of the time the pin bending trick works for me.

[Classic Chrispy]

Replacing the pin connector is the best option, but before you attach the new connector, be sure to see if the contacts on the motherboard are not too corroded...

[nathanallan]

Replacing the pin connector is the best option, but before you attach the new connector, be sure to see if the contacts on the motherboard are not too corroded...

I'll have to check this out again. It looked clean, but I can go back again. Time to break out the pencil erasers.

[guitarmas]

You can't really fix the 72-pin connector by bending some pins around. You're going to have to either replace the whole 72-pin or just disable the lockout chip which helps sometimes. I would suggest just replacing the pins its REALLY easy to do and almost always makes the nes 100%.

 

Yes you can. I did it to my last NES and it worked great.

 

http://classicgaming.gamespy.com/View.php?...tail&id=256

Edited February 13, 2008 by guitarmas

[cosmicpsycho]

this is just common sense, but since nobody else metioned it i guess i will. make sure your carts are clean. i myself have tried the pin bending and it worked fine for me, also cleaning the pin with alcohol and a toothbrush seems to work. disabling the lockout chip does seem to help quite a bit, and is easy to do.

Edited February 14, 2008 by cosmicpsycho

[MFoolsRun]

also cleaning the pin with alcohol and a toothbrush seems to work.

 

A toothbrush! Brilliant!

 

disabling the lockout chip does seem to help quite a bit, and is easy to do.

 

It really is; for anyone who's afraid of this process, I'm useless when it comes to electronics, and I had no trouble with this mod on three different NESes. I essentially ripped the lockout chip's offending "tooth" off with needle-nose pliers. Worked fine.

[gdement]

Thanks for the link. I was wondering about the lockout chip, myself. And the glass top of the NES is sweet, I might do that one.

 

Also, I repaired mine by replacing the slot, but it still goes to blinking sometimes. Any idea why? Like, I can put the game in fully and click it down, and it won't work, but if I leave it UP and not clicked down it plays??? What's up with that?

 

Nathan

 

The replacement connector is so tight that it really doesn't need to be pushed down, and perhaps doing so just distorts it and makes it lose contact. In any case, it isn't necessary and will only wear it out faster.

 

Back when I put the replacement in my NES, I remember following a guide on some web site. If I remember correctly, they warned against pushing the replacement too far forward on the internal connector. I think it's only supposed to sit half/most of the way forward, but it's not supposed to bottom out against the motherboard.

[JB]

Thanks for the link. I was wondering about the lockout chip, myself. And the glass top of the NES is sweet, I might do that one.

 

Also, I repaired mine by replacing the slot, but it still goes to blinking sometimes. Any idea why? Like, I can put the game in fully and click it down, and it won't work, but if I leave it UP and not clicked down it plays??? What's up with that?

 

Nathan

 

The replacement connector is so tight that it really doesn't need to be pushed down, and perhaps doing so just distorts it and makes it lose contact. In any case, it isn't necessary and will only wear it out faster.

It's a bit more than just being tighter.

The replacement connector isn't the same TYPE of connector as the original NES part.

 

The original is a Zero-Insertion Force connector. Which means that, by design, it doesn't engage until the cart is levered down.

The replacement is typically a non-ZIF connector. It's designed to engage as the cart is inserted, and to NOT move.

 

Wear out faster is a best-case scenario for levering carts down in the replacement. There's a chance of physical damage to the connector AND your cartridges. So don't do it.

....

It's also part of why I'd rather refurbish the original ZIF than replace it.