CV Slow-Fire Module.

[CV Gus]

Well, so far, I've had absolutely no luck with games for anything, except a Commodore-64.

 

But I have had some luck with hardware.

 

So far, it's been:

 

No-Battery Driving Module (hint- check out how the spinner on a Super Action Controller works...).

 

Converting a regular controller to a four-button-type- with a flick of the switch.

 

Paddle Controller for the 5200.

 

And the ultimate so far: a Digital Controller for the 5200.

 

 

Today, I managed to get two key components for my next and toughest project yet: A Slow Fire Module for the CV.

 

What it (hopefully) will do is this: when you plug in a controller to it, and it into the CV, it can limit the rate of fire you are capable of. This is adjustable.

 

Take Looping. The way to beat this game is to loop back once, shooting the missile there, and then align yourself with the green line and shoot as quickly as possible, accelerating in spurts. This way, you stay ahead of the balloons, but can shoot out the bricks and missiles all in one run.

 

I like this game so much, I hate having beat it so easily. Since I cannot change the software, I decided to go about it with hardware. Since the module will slow the rate of fire, you cannot use that trick. This makes the game much harder (I've done this by deliberately firing more slowly).

 

Essentially, it taps in to the controller wiring by "piggybacking" a current to a relay from a capacitor, starting with the blue wire, which is disconnected from the CV when the module is activated (a current from a battery will not go "into" the CV). It is actually a glorified version of those flashing light kits you used to see at Radio Shack.

 

This should make Spectar, Mr. Do!'s Castle, and Tarzan tougher, too.

 

Wish me luck. Now, if only the two Zener diodes would arrive.

Edited July 18, 2008 by CV Gus

[CV Gus]

Sheesh- I can't believe the trouble I'm having finding the key component. I'd settle for a UniJunction Transistor (UJT), but no luck so far. And without such a component, this cannot work.

 

The heart of the module works like this: Both fire buttons share the blue wire. It is only for the two fire buttons, nothing else.

 

The gray and green are for the buttons, but they are also for other things.

 

The blue wire is cut.

 

You know that old trick of wiring a capacitor to a battery, with a variable resistor ("potentiometer") in the circuit? So the power levels and thus, voltage, slowly or quickly builds up? Well, one end of the battery is hooked up to the blue wire that goes to the controller. The other end is hooked up to (let's just go with one button for now) the green wire.

 

In the module is that Battery/Capacitor/Potentiometer set-up. Power levels build up in the capacitor.

 

When you push the fire button, a circuit is completed from the above set-up to another circuit, one that will only flow if a certain voltage is reached. If it has, current flows through a relay (with a coil and reed). THIS circuit has the blue wire going to the CV and connects to the green wire, with a diode (as in the controller) there. This duplicates an ordinary set up.

 

To be able to fire again, the cycle must be completed again. Pushing the fire button will not let any current through until it does. Adjusting the potentiometer will speed up or slow down the rate at which you can fire.

 

Connected to the same battery is an identical, independent set-up for the other fire button. There are two switches, so either one or both buttons can be affected (in a game such as Looping, only the fire button need be "slowed").

 

A UniJunction Transistor would no doubt work, but try to find an inexpensive one that triggers at only, say, 2.4 or even 3 Volts.

 

This is my biggest stumbling block so far.

 

 

By the way- the battery current will not flow into the CV. No battery current will flow except between the two poles, and there is no direct connection to the CV.

Edited July 25, 2008 by CV Gus