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littleman jack

power supply question, 800 & 810

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Hello,

 

I recently picked up an 800 and 810 and am wondering about the power supplies. I had the same set up many years ago when I was a kid, but unfortunately gave my originals away in 1997.

 

However, the ones I picked up work just fine. But the power supplies have me a bit perplexed, and I want to be sure that I'm not frying either the 800 or 810. What are the correct numbers that should be on the power supplies? The ones I just obained are both 9V, but the other numbers vary drastically. I don't remember my original power supplies being so different from each other. The both looked extremely similar, but these two are quite different from each other.

 

Does anyone know what my power supplies should be rated?

 

Thanks for any replies!

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Hi,

 

This is from the FAQ's.

 

N O R T H A M E R I C A INPUT = 115-120 V AC, 50/60Hz

========================

AC supplies (external transformers)

9 V AC 5.4 VA (600 mA) Atari#CO62195/CO17539

1030

 

9 V AC 4.5 VA (500 mA) Atari#CO61516

1010

 

9 V AC 15.3 VA (1.7 A) Atari#CO14319

400,800,822,850,1010,1200XL

 

9 V AC 18 VA (2.0 A) Atari#CA014748/CA016804

400,800,822,850,1010,1200XL,810

 

9 V AC 31 VA (3.4 A) Atari#CO17945

400,800,822,850,1010,1200XL,810,1020,1050,XF551

 

9 V AC 50 VA (5.6 A) Atari#CA017964

400,800,822,850,1010,1200XL,810,1020,1050,XF551

 

9.5 V AC 40 VA (4.2 A) Atari#CO61636

1027,1090XL

 

20 V AC 6.6 VA (330 mA) Atari#CO60479/CA060535

835

 

20 VAC 8 VA (400 mA) Novation#901017

830

 

24 V AC 3.6 VA (150 mA) Atari#CA016751

830

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The power supply for both my Atari 800's are as follows

 

Part Number C017945

 

Input

120V

60Hz

50W

 

Output

9V AC

31 VA

 

Hope this helps

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Thanks rdea6 and LYNXGUY,

 

your posts helped a lot. Looks like I am not frying my 800 and 810, and all is well.

 

Thanks again.

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CO17945 - I know there is a fuse in it that goes. I want to open it to get to that fuse..

 

How do I do it? I tried to wedge thin screwdrivers, knives, etc.. into the joint of the top and bottom last night.. no success.

 

Is there a thread for this already? tips suggestions.. pics??

 

Thanks

 

James

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you open it from the bottom..... slow and painful.... working your way around serveral times....it is glued..... no easy way.... it is a fine line to use any solvent so I don't suggest it... I will dig one out and show you a pic... razor blade then utility knife and then a super thin pry bar... a little patience and pressure on the shell. work it work it... you cut the glue straight down from the bottom then you take a thin sharp long screw driver and go in thru the power cord panel near the very bottom side and separate the top from the bottom by cutting the remaining glue from the inside right next to the cord panel each side then the length of each side the far side is normal a couple of flexings in your hands (I used two screwdrivers....on to cut and pry and one to help hold thing open.... you can see I took the fuse out... you can replace the fuse or wire in a fuse holder or reset-able fuse drill a hole from either left or right long sides on the cord end of the block. glue it up and you can replace or reset a fuse at will.

 

post-21949-0-93190600-1488545274_thumb.jpg

post-21949-0-43770200-1488545319_thumb.jpg

 

ok, so you see nothing broken and you can glue it shut again and it looks just fine

no one should ever throw an Atari power supply away... they are cake to fix.... you can avoid blowing fuses by connecting the barrel plug to the device before plugging in to the wall. The only supply to toss is that epoxy filled piece of crap ingot style boat anchor....

Edited by _The Doctor__
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The above post was for the power block with the flat rubber feet, the other similar block has rounded feet that pull out by twisting and there are screws to remove under those feet.. just unscrew and replace the fuse or refer to the above post if glued

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I notice you've got one of those shitbox Dell Latitude laptops.

 

I've got one here too... the stupid media keys activate for no reason because like so many badly made laptops the touchpad isn't constructed well enough and starts getting ghost touches.

And the SMC seems to have crapped itself - no longer allows the battery to charge at all, supposedly a common problem where a solder join to a pin goes bad.

Served me well for a little while I suppose.

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Yep, this Dell Inspiron/Latitude has every conceivable problem known to man.... and yet it lives.... torn it apart so many times and it limps back to life!

Crazy thing is, it's not the oldest one I have... :\

Edited by _The Doctor__

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Dell Insperion laptops are one thing, and Latitudes another in my experience. My experience with higher end Latitudes has generally been positive. Can't argue about the Insperions though.

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Looking for a modern-era safe replacement power supply for the 810 Floppy and the 800XL console. Any known sources?

 

Are Atari power bricks safe to use or are they system-killers as the Commodore bricks are well known to be?

 

I tried to read the details at Best Electronics but the site itself nearly gave me a migraine. :-p

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For the 800XL most of the power supplies in the photo are reliable and or serviceable. The only real possible system killer is in the top row middle with the black label. I have some of each type and the only one to every fail was the one I described. This is appears to be very common with that particular power supply.

 

As for the 810 I have not had any issues so far with the power supplies for them.

post-9762-0-74966300-1551375661_thumb.jpg

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Looking for a modern-era safe replacement power supply for the 810 Floppy and the 800XL console. Any known sources?

 

For the 810: 810 should have 9VAC 3A, minimum 2.1A

 

If you find a seller on eBay, be sure to contact them to make sure of the amp rating - most 9VAC power supplies are only 1.0A, and the sellers often blur out the rating in the photos.

 

The barrel connector for the 800, 810, 1050, etc is 5.5x2.5mm. You'll find often 5.5x2.1mm is common.

 

Previous topic regarding disk drive power supplies: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/282454-atari-dd-1050-repair-tips-and-psu/?p=4102874

 

But, if you have an already working original Atari 9VAC power supply, it can be trusted and reliable and is way less prone to failure compared to a DC power supply.

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Dell Insperion laptops are one thing, and Latitudes another in my experience. My experience with higher end Latitudes has generally been positive.

Ditto. My experience with Latitude models has been good. PC snobs with more time than I have to build and tweak systems shit all over my “Dellionware” gaming laptop but the thing flies and is built like a frakking tank. I love the stupid thing (and my buddy’s giant Dell employee discount code really saved me a lot of scratch to buy it, which helped!)

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Ok, I finally, painstakingly opened my C017945 power supply and confirmed a bad fuse.  I'm new to this so what type of fuse will I need to replace this bad one?  The writing is too small to read on the ends of the fuse lol!

 

Thanks,

 

Trellot

 

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On 8/8/2019 at 7:27 PM, Trellot said:

Ok, I finally, painstakingly opened my C017945 power supply and confirmed a bad fuse.  I'm new to this so what type of fuse will I need to replace this bad one?  The writing is too small to read on the ends of the fuse lol!

 

Thanks,

 

Trellot

 

Reopening an old thread, is it a 5A fuse?

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On 4/29/2020 at 2:26 PM, coleconut said:

Reopening an old thread, is it a 5A fuse?

Yes it is, I purchased a bag of Zephyr Fast Acting Axial 5x20mm 250V 5AMP fuses for future use.  I already have another PSU that came with a unit with a blown fuse lol.

 

~ Trellot

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Is the fuse on the input (110v) side or the output (9v side)? You should use a slow-blow fuse. 5amp is way too big on the input... looks like 2amp or less. You get a fault in the Atari with a 5amp fuse on the input and you might see smoke in your computer a little bit - your m/b acting as your fuse...!

 

Bob

 

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It's on the secondary. The transformers are center tapped step downs. IIRC

Edited by _The Doctor__

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Hey guys thanks for your points.  So, I originally got the 5a fuse due to Bradley at Best recommending it.  What exact fuse then are you fellas recommending then, 2a?  

 

Thanks

Edited by Trellot

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Hi can one not put a quick blow 1amp fuse in line with the wire on the atari psu so if there's a surge or fault it won't pop your atari but the quick blow fuse instead

I've used quick blow fuses inline with my radio ham gear which protects my radio's so same difference with your atari psu 

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I am using successfully with my Atari 800 this one - RockPower NT 21 Power Supply 9V AC/2100 mA 5.5 x 2.5mm :)

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11 hours ago, Back2skooldaze said:

Hi can one not put a quick blow 1amp fuse in line with the wire on the atari psu so if there's a surge or fault it won't pop your atari but the quick blow fuse instead

I've used quick blow fuses inline with my radio ham gear which protects my radio's so same difference with your atari psu 

Why not use a C64saver type device. The simple version uses a zener diode as a trigger for a couple of transistors which operate a small relay to disconnect the output once a preset voltage has been exceeded, and reconnects the output if the voltage drops under the limit. There are different versions of this device.

https://www.hackup.net/2020/01/c64-saver-evolution/

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