Intellivision Black Screen...any ideas?

[Plink]

Hello,

 

a few days ago I got an intellivision with a few games.

 

I tried it on the tv, but I only get a black screen.

 

I thoroughly cleaned the contacts, in the intellivision and the carts. I also pulled out the contacts of the intellivision, just in case they weren't close enough.

 

No luck, all i get is a black screen...

 

Anyone have any ideas of what to look for?

I was thinking to change the capacitors...could that help? or it is a chip and i'm screwed?

 

thanks for any info

[else]

This can be caused by a faulty / worn-out controller. Try unplugging both controllers and then turning it on with a cart plugged in. Yes, unplugging the controllers requires you to open up the case (except in the unlikely event you have the Sears model).

[Plink]

This can be caused by a faulty / worn-out controller. Try unplugging both controllers and then turning it on with a cart plugged in. Yes, unplugging the controllers requires you to open up the case (except in the unlikely event you have the Sears model).

 

thanks for the fast reply m8

 

i hope its something that simple.

The truth is that in the one controller the protection of the wire is torn ..and might be faulty..

 

I'll try it right away and tell you how it did

[Plink]

nah...tried it with no controller...and with only one connected..

nothing worked...still a black screen

[else]

Okay. Well, that's the only semi-obvious thing I can think of.....

[Emehr]

I have an INTV with the same problem. Go here: http://www.intvfunhouse.com/faq/intv_faq7.php

I can't vouch for anything as my solution was to get a different console

[intvnut]

I have an INTV with the same problem. Go here: http://www.intvfunhouse.com/faq/intv_faq7.php

I can't vouch for anything as my solution was to get a different console

 

Yeah, definitely check the voltages going into the unit, and that all the connections from the power supply board to the logic board are in place solid. I had a "dead" unit that required reseating all the connections firmly. (I suspect oxidation in there.)

 

The CPU requires a fair bit of grunt on its clock lines (something like 10V - 14V!!). The console has an exorbitant number of voltages it needs to operate correctly. Oh, and I think there's a typo on Steve's site (INTV Fun House). That -2V is supposed to be -3V, I'm 99.44% certain. It's V_ss to the CPU, and I'm pretty certain that's supposed to be -3V. That darned CPU takes like 5 voltages all by itself... -3V, 0V, 5V, 12V directly, and 10-14V on its clock lines.

 

If you wanna get really adventurous, you'll have to desolder that sarcophagus and try reseating all the socketed chips. Reseating isn't hard. Finding something to do with the three gallons of solder they use to weld the thing shut's another story. :-)

[Plink]

I have an INTV with the same problem. Go here: http://www.intvfunhouse.com/faq/intv_faq7.php

I can't vouch for anything as my solution was to get a different console

 

Yeah, definitely check the voltages going into the unit, and that all the connections from the power supply board to the logic board are in place solid. I had a "dead" unit that required reseating all the connections firmly. (I suspect oxidation in there.)

 

The CPU requires a fair bit of grunt on its clock lines (something like 10V - 14V!!). The console has an exorbitant number of voltages it needs to operate correctly. Oh, and I think there's a typo on Steve's site (INTV Fun House). That -2V is supposed to be -3V, I'm 99.44% certain. It's V_ss to the CPU, and I'm pretty certain that's supposed to be -3V. That darned CPU takes like 5 voltages all by itself... -3V, 0V, 5V, 12V directly, and 10-14V on its clock lines.

 

If you wanna get really adventurous, you'll have to desolder that sarcophagus and try reseating all the socketed chips. Reseating isn't hard. Finding something to do with the three gallons of solder they use to weld the thing shut's another story. :-)

 

 

thanks for the info intvnut

 

Actually last night I had some free time and checked a few things.

The voltages seem to be ok (though i'm not very keen with the multimeter but I don't think i did it wrong).

 

I tried to open the shielding and indeed ...omg...why they used sooooo much solder for it?? they didn't want anyone to steal their circuits?

I was tired of desoldering...and I left the work to my beloved dremel

The speed of cutting tool...caused the solder to melt like butter and the treasure boxed open in 2mins

 

Btw I was amazed with the huge cooling things that are stuck on the chips...lol

 

I went out and bought some capacitors today...i think that will also help.

 

When I get some time..i'll try reseating the chips and maybe i'll also redo some soldering...

 

I checked and no signs of corrosion though...

 

And one more thing..i don't know if that helps.

Spoke with the guy who gave it to me...he said he had also the black screens ...and some times after turning the unit on/off for quite a few times...the screen was magically working again...

[intvnut]

And one more thing..i don't know if that helps.

Spoke with the guy who gave it to me...he said he had also the black screens ...and some times after turning the unit on/off for quite a few times...the screen was magically working again...

 

Hmm. That sounds like it could be a reset issue also. First question, naturally, is have you tried punching reset when it's powered up with a black screen?

 

Reset is handled by the STIC, AY-3-8900. You can see it in the middle of this schematic:

 

http://spatula-city.org/~im14u2c/intv/tech...s/schematic.png

 

I unfortunately don't know where I put my opened logic board (it used to live somewhere on my projects desk, but I'm not finding it). Otherwise I could tell you more exactly to look. Anyhoo, check the voltages and caps associated with U4 (AY-3-8900) and U1 (CP-1610) first. U4 is the video chip, U1 is the CPU. They're both socketed with epoxied heat sinks.

 

There's a weird thing in the schematic at C26, going to pin 14 of U4, nearly smack dab in the middle of the schematic. That's the capacitor on the reset line. It's a 50V, 1µF capacitor, non-polarized capacitor, as I read it. The symbol for it's kinda goofy. I think the cap they used must be two polarized caps back-to-back under the hood. If you replace that goofy thing, just be sure to use a non-polarized cap there that's around 1µF. (Not sure what justifies a 50V rating there, but they DO mention it in the schematic...)

 

Fun fact: The part numbers are inked on the bottom of the heat-sink-covered chips. So, when you remove them from the socket, you can ID which chip is which. Just keep track of which end gets the notch so you don't put them back in backward.

[Plink]

And one more thing..i don't know if that helps.

Spoke with the guy who gave it to me...he said he had also the black screens ...and some times after turning the unit on/off for quite a few times...the screen was magically working again...

 

Hmm. That sounds like it could be a reset issue also. First question, naturally, is have you tried punching reset when it's powered up with a black screen?

 

Reset is handled by the STIC, AY-3-8900. You can see it in the middle of this schematic:

 

http://spatula-city.org/~im14u2c/intv/tech...s/schematic.png

 

I unfortunately don't know where I put my opened logic board (it used to live somewhere on my projects desk, but I'm not finding it). Otherwise I could tell you more exactly to look. Anyhoo, check the voltages and caps associated with U4 (AY-3-8900) and U1 (CP-1610) first. U4 is the video chip, U1 is the CPU. They're both socketed with epoxied heat sinks.

 

There's a weird thing in the schematic at C26, going to pin 14 of U4, nearly smack dab in the middle of the schematic. That's the capacitor on the reset line. It's a 50V, 1µF capacitor, non-polarized capacitor, as I read it. The symbol for it's kinda goofy. I think the cap they used must be two polarized caps back-to-back under the hood. If you replace that goofy thing, just be sure to use a non-polarized cap there that's around 1µF. (Not sure what justifies a 50V rating there, but they DO mention it in the schematic...)

 

Fun fact: The part numbers are inked on the bottom of the heat-sink-covered chips. So, when you remove them from the socket, you can ID which chip is which. Just keep track of which end gets the notch so you don't put them back in backward.

 

 

I already tried the reseating chips thing..but didn't help.

 

That idea with the reset seems logical...actually...the intellivision unit doesnt have a reset button at all...

I've spotted the 1mF cap..and already bought one....

i'll check if the one i bought is polarized and maybe i'll try changing first this one...

 

hopefully will try something tomorrow morning,,i'll let you know how it went

[intvnut]

I already tried the reseating chips thing..but didn't help.

 

That idea with the reset seems logical...actually...the intellivision unit doesnt have a reset button at all...

I've spotted the 1mF cap..and already bought one....

i'll check if the one i bought is polarized and maybe i'll try changing first this one...

 

hopefully will try something tomorrow morning,,i'll let you know how it went

 

Definitely install a reset button. Even my most reliable Intellivisions often need you to punch reset after powerup to get a game screen.

 

IIRC, the stock reset button just pushes on a piece of metal to make a momentary contact switch directly on the logic board. You could wire a discrete momentary contact switch to those two points, or between GND and pin 12 on the cartridge port. Here's the view from the cartridge's perspective:

 

[dave04045]

Fourtunatley, I also had this same problem and it doesn't require any of the above. I don't know if I have the same solution as you, but it is very simple. You must not be pushing the games in all the way. This was the problem for me. Don't be afraid to be aggresive but still be gentle. Make sure you hit the reset button after you turn it on.

[intvnut]

Fourtunatley, I also had this same problem and it doesn't require any of the above. I don't know if I have the same solution as you, but it is very simple. You must not be pushing the games in all the way. This was the problem for me. Don't be afraid to be aggresive but still be gentle. Make sure you hit the reset button after you turn it on.

 

I don't know if you missed it, but his console is missing its reset button and doesn't self-reset reliably.

[Rik]

That really sucks,some like tinkering,me..i'd get another console.That way you'll be able to enjoy the games sooner.The INTV really is a great system,minus most say the controllers.But hey,how many classic consoles have perfect controllers...not many to zip.Funny thing is,i thought the reset button didnt work on both of my INTV'S(the 1st model)till someone here at AA said you have to really press hard till you hear it click...and yes they both worked!!!

Edited October 7, 2008 by Rik

[intvnut]

Some like like tinkering,me..i'd get another console.That way you'll be able to enjoy the games sooner.The INTV really is a great system,minus most say the controllers.But hey,how many classic consoles have perfect controllers...not many to zip.Funny thing is,i thought the reset button didnt work on both of my INTV'S(the 1st model)till someone here at AA said you have to really press hard till you hear it click...and yes they both worked!!!

 

Adding a reset button is so easy, though, if you have a soldering iron. I believe enough contact is exposed that you could even manage to add one without removing the shielding. All in all, it's a simple thing. Why chuck otherwise good systems when they are a fundamentally limited resource?

Edited October 7, 2008 by intvnut

[Rik]

Some like like tinkering,me..i'd get another console.That way you'll be able to enjoy the games sooner.The INTV really is a great system,minus most say the controllers.But hey,how many classic consoles have perfect controllers...not many to zip.Funny thing is,i thought the reset button didnt work on both of my INTV'S(the 1st model)till someone here at AA said you have to really press hard till you hear it click...and yes they both worked!!!

 

Adding a reset button is so easy, though, if you have a soldering iron. I believe enough contact is exposed that you could even manage to add one without removing the shielding. All in all, it's a simple thing. Why chuck otherwise good systems when they are a fundamentally limited resource?

Couldnt agree more.I guess i wasnt too clear,i meant sometimes the problem lies in the realm where not everyone can or knows how to deal with,which is the case with me sometimes.I had a console once that just would not work,after trying out things that went as far as my knowledge of electronics,which is limited,so instead of farting around with it,and not being able to play the new games i got for it,I aquired a WORKING one,so i can take my time to figure out whats wrong with the other non working one,and if unsuccessful....keep it for parts,or sell or give to someone who can fix it.I would NEVER throw out any console,thats sacriledge!!!!!But thats the beauty of AA,you can ask,if you dont know how.

Edited October 7, 2008 by Rik

[Plink]

Hello,

 

as mentioned above my Intellivision misses the reset button at all...

However, there's no way i'm gonna quit on it, although I already had the chance to buy a new one.

 

I was in the process of changing all the caps and stuff, but now 'm trying to find a capacitor that will fit the board.

The origianl cap has one leg on each side...but the one i got now has both legs on one end..and doesn't fit in the same place.

 

When I find some free time, i'll change the rest of the caps..and try to install a new reset button.

[dave04045]

Well,

If you are not an expert or know a heck of a lot about Intellivisions, I'd try and find someone to do it for you.