Spirantho Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Y'know some of you electronically adept folks should really make some step-by-step videos for repairs and things like this! I know the audience is rather limited, but MAN would they be helpful! It's not that simple. It's easy if you know what the fault is, but 99.9% of the time you don't. For instance, I changed the +12V regulator in my 1050 when it broke. It made no difference whatsoever, because it was the smoothing electrolytic cap between 12V and ground that had dried up, so was shorting the 12V line. Point is, though, unless you do a video for every problem, it'd be no use. You really need to understand the basics of electronics to repair these things, and if you know them then you don't need a video anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 ah but some things are just common, like the dried cap, blown u1 3086, regulator, diodes, and 6532. then there is the track zero sensor/write protect sensor. The most common repairs. and don't forget the blown fuse inside the transformer block, slice thru the epoxy and replace the simple fuse. All common often missed and simple enough to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Keeping in mind it's been over 30 years since high school electronics, I'm diagnosing a dead 1050 drive. I noticed the heat sink quickly gets hot, so I checked all the capacitors with a digital meter. The big ones seem fine, but each of the 4.7 and 47 mF capacitors appear to be shorted. Does that sound right? It looks like I can order replacements from Best. stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bf2k+ Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Keeping in mind it's been over 30 years since high school electronics, I'm diagnosing a dead 1050 drive. I noticed the heat sink quickly gets hot, so I checked all the capacitors with a digital meter. The big ones seem fine, but each of the 4.7 and 47 mF capacitors appear to be shorted. Does that sound right? It looks like I can order replacements from Best. stevem Did you remove one leg of the caps from the board before you checked them? Shorted diodes in the 1050 are a common ailment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 The heat sink holds the regulators and such. If it is overheating, it is probably something after the diodes/capacitors that provide input to the regs. Do you have DC into the regulators? What is the output voltage of the regulators? Bob Keeping in mind it's been over 30 years since high school electronics, I'm diagnosing a dead 1050 drive. I noticed the heat sink quickly gets hot, so I checked all the capacitors with a digital meter. The big ones seem fine, but each of the 4.7 and 47 mF capacitors appear to be shorted. Does that sound right? It looks like I can order replacements from Best. stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 After servicing three 1050s (and replacing one track 0 sensor), my little tinkering holiday is over. I don't have the time to troubleshoot this 1050 board, and if I put it aside it will likely remain there. I'll ship it free of charge to anyone (in the USA) who can use it. Send me a PM. stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 The 1050 board has been claimed. stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missinglenk Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Really stupid question - my Atari 800 disk drive also has the boot error problem too. I want to look inside it to find out what is going on. How do you open an Atari 810? Its not like the Atari 1050 with the screws easily accessible. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup8pdct Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Really stupid question - my Atari 800 disk drive also has the boot error problem too. I want to look inside it to find out what is going on. How do you open an Atari 810? Its not like the Atari 1050 with the screws easily accessible. Thanks. The screws come down from the top. near each corner, you may or may not have some stick on covers that are the same colour as the case. peel each off, then use a phillips screwdriver to go down the holes and undo the screws. the top cover will then lift off. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Hi, I don't know if i'm in the right place but i'm in need of help with my 1050 drive. I have a power light when i turn the drive on but there is no movement in the drive at all. This is the same if i have the lever up or down. At the moment i can not put a disk in as the middle part that sits on the middle of a disk is down blocking the entry of a disk. Hope that makes sense. Thanks Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 If the door latch is open and you can't insert a disk then there's something mechanical going on with the drive. Can you remove the top case and take a photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi Stargunner, I've solved the problem with the latch as it was just a little stiff due to age. I have a power light when i turn the drive on but there is no movement in the drive at all. Please see the picure below which will hopefully help. Thank you for your help. Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Sorry here is a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 So with the cover off does anything move when you flick the power switch on (head or spindle)? If not then it's either a power issue with the 12V circuit, the drive power cable (J15) isn't connected right or possibly a logic problem with one of the chips. I think I had a similar problem when a PIA (U7) went bad in one of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 No just the main power light comes on, nothig else happes. If it's a issue with the 12v cirsuit or a logic problem with oe of the chips, will this be something that a novice like myself could fix in some way? Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 No just the main power light comes on, nothig else happes. If it's a issue with the 12v cirsuit or a logic problem with oe of the chips, will this be something that a novice like myself could fix in some way? Ta Daz Just to be sure, you are using a 9v *AC* power brick, yes? I only ask because I have 9v DC power bricks around, and if I try one of those on a 1050, it does exactly what you describe. The regulators can still supply 5 volts from the DC, but without AC, cannot supply the 12v the drive needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 It's an AC brick as you can see from the picture i've added below. Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 It's an AC brick as you can see from the picture i've added below. Ta Daz Can you use a multimeter? I can dig out the locations for testing the 12V circuit when I get home. My money is on the 12V voltage regulator. They're not too hard to replace if you have soldering experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Hold on i have tested the wrong pins but i think when i tested pins 2 and 3 i got 0. I assume i should of not got 0. Ta Daz Edited March 27, 2012 by dazpants1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Ok I've been given some information by metalguy66 on how to replace these parts if defective. I'm going to give this a go and I'll let you know how I go on. Thank you to everyone for your help. Its really appreciated. Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I've just purchased another 1050 while i'm repairing the above mentioned 1050 and i have run the 1050 utility test disk and it says it fails the motor speed test "Too Slow". Everything else seems to work ok. Does this mean the drive motor needs to be replaced? Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Not likely, it's probably reporting wrong value because the computer is a Pal machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 The drive reads sometimes but not everytime. When i put a disk in and lower the lever the drive motor usually spins shortly which is correct but sometimes the motor does not move. Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 check the belt, it is a common issue. it is uncommon for the drive motor to go bad (not unheard of tho), most likely the speed potentiometer needs to be adjusted. sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazpants1 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I have found where it is but how do i measure the speed potentiometer (VR2). It says in the service manual that i needs to be 208.3ms. Ta Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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