How to remove yellowing from an old Atari case

[Tempest]

I left it on overnight and it dried out a little, but not bad. I panicked a bit and washed it all off this morning. After only 12 hours it definitely lightened the brown a bit to a light beige color (it should be that white platinum color), but I noticed some unevenness. I don't think it's blooming, just that it deyellowed a bit more or less in some spots, maybe where I had the mixture thicker or thinner. I'm going to try again today using sunlight since it's actually sunny out for once. Hopefully I can even it out a bit.

 

Tempest

[flashjazzcat]

I've never had any problems with blooming since I stoppped putting the Oxy in. I just use the 40vol creme straight from the bottle.

 

 

 

[Tempest]

It worked! The Mac Classic is now one uniform color. I guess sunlight was the key, as it worked within a few hours. There was a little 'blooming' and unevenness, but I was able to remedy that with a magic eraser. My Classic now looks 100% better, I just wish I had taken a before shot. Oh well, I have a few more things I need to de-yellow.

 

Tempest

[Rik]

Holy crap!someone should invent a UNIVERSAL plastic whitening kit,and sell it at gaming Expos or something.I believe such an invention would sell like hot cakes.Something that would save time and simplify the process.This whitening thing is a science,and a lot of bloody work.

Edited February 19, 2010 by Rik

[flashjazzcat]

Finished the top of the keyboard casing, and it looks better in natural daylight. Before and after pics:

 

 

Edited February 21, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[GregadetH]

I don't know if this has been discussed, but Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works like a charm. Dry or wet.

[+Stephen]

I don't know if this has been discussed, but Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works like a charm. Dry or wet.

It is abrasive though and can damage the mottled finish on the cases.

[flashjazzcat]

I don't know if this has been discussed, but Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works like a charm. Dry or wet.

I used it to salvage an ST which had bloomed...

 

It is abrasive though and can damage the mottled finish on the cases.

And it did.

[flashjazzcat]

A burst of sunshine at last (yesterday). The last of my 3 XEs is finally done:

 

 

Here it is with the other two (bottom left):

 

 

Actually it looks the cleanest of the lot. The machine in the lower right of the picture is my 65XE from 1991. The computer sat on my desk for over a decade, and although the keyboard has been replaced with a new one from Best, the case has received no more than a wash in soapy water.

 

 

 

[Tempest]

A burst of sunshine at last (yesterday). The last of my 3 XEs is finally done:

 

Here it is with the other two (bottom left):

 

 

Actually it looks the cleanest of the lot. The machine in the lower right of the picture is my 65XE from 1991. The computer sat on my desk for over a decade, and although the keyboard has been replaced with a new one from Best, the case has received no more than a wash in soapy water.

How did you do the keys? I need to do my 65XE and the keys on it. Did you remove them and do them separately?

 

Tempest

[flashjazzcat]

How did you do the keys? I need to do my 65XE and the keys on it. Did you remove them and do them separately?

I have removed the keys in the past but more recently I became lazy and I just remove the metal back panel and the mylar layer (and rubber cups if applicable) and paint peroxide on it without taking the keys off. Sure - the plastic underneath each key won't get good exposure - but it's far easier and providing the light source is directly above the keyboard, results are excellent (as you can see). The springs on sprung keys do not rust so it's no problem gettting them wet.

[tjlazer]

How did you do the keys? I need to do my 65XE and the keys on it. Did you remove them and do them separately?

I have removed the keys in the past but more recently I became lazy and I just remove the metal back panel and the mylar layer (and rubber cups if applicable) and paint peroxide on it without taking the keys off. Sure - the plastic underneath each key won't get good exposure - but it's far easier and providing the light source is directly above the keyboard, results are excellent (as you can see). The springs on sprung keys do not rust so it's no problem gettting them wet.

 

I recently was even more lazy than you, and I did not even dismantle the 65XE at all! It turned out awesome (see my pics of my 65xe in this thread) Didnt even get any liquid in the keyboard. All I used was Clarol Pro 4 cream developer and a brush. About 6 hours in the sun with coats every 30 min.

 

Of course this is NOT the best way, it is my version of the Atari Universal 4" drop.

Edited March 10, 2010 by tjlazer

[Zonie]

Hmmm. I wonder if this works on fiberglass. The bath module in my RV is yellow from the heat...

Edited March 11, 2010 by Zonie

[Tempest]

Will the solution fade or remove text that is printed on the case like the machine name on a Macintosh? I know rubbing it with a magic eraser will, but just applying the solution over it and not rubbing shouldn't right?

 

Tempest

[flashjazzcat]

Will the solution fade or remove text that is printed on the case like the machine name on a Macintosh? I know rubbing it with a magic eraser will, but just applying the solution over it and not rubbing shouldn't right?

It doesn't take the print off 8-bit/ST keys, so I would assume not. However, someone's bound to discover print that it will dissolve sooner or later.

Edited March 15, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[Retro Rogue]

Just an update on the rust removal portion of my restoration of the white Bally system. Submerged the rusted metal shielding pieces in vinegar and it's working beautifully.

 

Used distilled white vinegar, and let them sit submerged in a container for a day. The rust is literally rubbing/lightly scraping right off with the edge of my screwdriver. The only thing left is a darker discoloration where the rust used to be (like a tarnish), that's it. Afterwords, I rinse off with distilled water (do no use tap or bottled water).

 

Did the same thing for my Magnavox Odyssey battery compartment, which was completely corroded with battery acid. couldn't get a charge to go through even with brand new batteries. Submerged it, and the thick corrosion literally started lifting off the battery springs and contacts. By the time it was done, looked like shiny new copper, and I'm getting a full charge through it now.

Edited March 16, 2010 by wgungfu

[flashjazzcat]

Thought I'd post results for the latest 130XE (I'm having more success with the case than with the damaged motherboard):

 

 

 

The keyboard is one I had lying in the drawer: it needs a new Mylar and a bit of a clean. The transformation of the case is one of the most dramatic of any restoration I've done. Having a spare badge helped.

Edited March 28, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[tjlazer]

Finished the top of the keyboard casing, and it looks better in natural daylight. Before and after pics:

 

 

 

So how are you doing the keyboards, are you dismantling them off the PBC or removing all the keys and doing them separately? Are you using a Jar?

[flashjazzcat]

So how are you doing the keyboards, are you dismantling them off the PBC or removing all the keys and doing them separately? Are you using a Jar?

When I only had a couple of Ataris, I was taking the keys off and putting them on a baking tray on the windowsill. Now that I have six 8-bits and two STs, such niceties have gone by the wayside. With the XE keyboards, I find it perfectly sufficient to remove the metal backplate and mylar (plus rubber cups if applicable) and paint the whole keyboard assembly in peroxide and prop it up in the sun. Sure, the plastic under the keycaps may not get great exposure, but it's obscured by the keys and probably didn't go too yellow in the first place. Moreover, given the keyboards can re-yellow pretty fast unless treated it's prohibitively time-consuming for me to remove the keys.

 

XL keyboards, of course, can't be conveniently dismantled in this way and in any case don't really need Retr0Briting. A quick wash in the sink and they're good for another ten years or so once they're bone dry.

Edited March 30, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[patarik]

What version of Vanish Oxi Action should I use?

 

With or without chlorine?

[flashjazzcat]

What version of Vanish Oxi Action should I use?

 

With or without chlorine?

Other people will say different, but I for one use 40 Vol Creme Peroxide without adding any other ingredients. Works like a charm. I probably used to put too much Oxy in when I did use it, and I had lots of problems with blooming. None since I stopped putting it in, though.

[flashjazzcat]

An added point regarding keyboards: I find the Japanese "rubber cup" keycaps are much tougher to get back to their original colour than the sprung Mitsumi types. It's clear that the rubber cup keyboards are made from inferior quality plastic. Even the lettering doesn't look as good.

[+wood_jl]

My latest go-round: A couple of nasty ST mice. click on pics to enlarge

 

 

First, I always clean with hot water, toothbrush, and this stuff: "Bleche-wite" whitewall cleaner (gotta love the dumb spelling).

It is caustic stuff, the vapors will sting your eyes and I've coughed a few times catching the backdraft as I spray it into a small sink. What it does - FOR SURE - is remove all grease/grime/film when used with a toothbrush. I figure it must be imperative to get the filth off so the peroxide can get to the plastic.

(It's excellent on whitewall tires too, in case you're curious)

 

 

 

Last time, I was doing only white computers (800XL and Vic-20) and I used 50-vol, adding the Oxy and the glycerin. I went back to the same store (Sally Beauty) and they wouldn't let me buy the 50-vol without cosmetology license. They did last time - OH THE CRIMINALITY. So I got 40-vol and in a smaller bottle too, which is nice. I had a little of the 50-vol left but it's quite old now and I figure the peroxide breaks down.

 

This time - after reading the experiences of others - I just used the 40-vol "straight." No oxy or glycerin. Like others, I found this less-harsh, and also less effective. This may be a good thing when doing colored computers, to avoid "blooming." It took repeated applications but I like that so I can monitor in between.

 

 

Here is the worst one. Gotta love the cord!!

 

 

Here is after pic: Between lighting and white balance, it doesn't look as different in pic as it does in person.

 

 

There were shoddy-quality plugs inside - a couple of the wires (with crimped-on metal) wanted to rise up out of the plug when plugging back in. I made sure it was in position, then epoxy'd the thing in place (while it was unplugged, of course). Several hours later, it's strong!

 

 

I knew all this water and peroxide would destroy the bottom labels. So I scanned them in at 600dpi. I set the contrast on the scanner to try to make the writing dark. There was some resulting artifacting that I removed by photoshopping the scan.

 

 

I then printed the labels on photo paper. To the top I applied quality clear packing tape. To the bottom I applied 2-sided thin (but very sticky) carpet tape. The result was "new stickers!!!!!!!" Admittedly, I was tired of fooling with them by the time I did this. You can see I did a sloppy job cutting them out. These are worthless; I just wanted to be able to distinguish (by country of manufacture) because they are different inside. Decent computer you wouldn't freehand cut with scissors, at least not without straightedge line first.

 

 

 

Turned out quite well. I can vouch for using the 40-vol out of the bottle. As I said, it's less effective without the oxy (and remember I used 50-vol last time too). But it didn't hurt anything. For a white computer, I'd likely get impatient and put in the oxy. The glycerin seemed to slow down the drying-away of the stuff. But with this milder stuff, I let it dry (a little bit, and not intentionally) and it didn't "bloom."

 

The cords were cleaned by pulling them tight and soaking a paper towel in 91% isopropyl, then just up-down-up-down-turn-repeat. The mouse ends (plug and strain relief) were cleaned with toothbrush and 91% isopropyl. For the last couple of stubborn cord stains, lacquer thinner and paper towel - but be careful because this WILL MELT PLASTIC and it kind of "melts clean" the stained parts of the cord. Wouldn't want to use it much, and never on a case.

 

Edited April 1, 2010 by wood_jl

[flashjazzcat]

A very thorough write-up. I love the new labels. Also, from what you've said about the Oxy I might start adding it again only when doing stubborn keyboards (where blooming isn't such an issue).

[+wood_jl]

Still doing it!

 

Sally Beauty in my area has the 40vol on sale this month (I think it's the whole month?) for $1.89 for the 16oz bottle. As I have 2 more ST and Amiga 1200 to work on, I got 3. I think this stuff will "go bad" and break down, so I wouldn't buy more than you plan to use soon.

 

It's amazing as this is pretty much "premixed Retr0brite" to me now. I mean, I've been using it quite a bit lately and not adding anything!

 

(Click to enlarge)

 

These keys were the same color before. This DID TAKE 3 treatments. 2 may have worked but what the hell.

 

 

 

 

This was the first treatment. (bottom original)I always go 2-3 treatments. Nice how someone used too-long of a screw on this machine and pushed a dimple up.

 

I have left this 40vol dry on completely more than once with no blooming. No oxy added, mind you. When it dries on (even partially), it leaves kind of a "slime layer" that is kind of hard to detect, but can be scrubbed off. When you wash it off, you'll feel it kind of slick under your fingers WHEN IT'S WET. It'll seem to be gone but if you wet it again it's there. Some soap and a scrub brush gets it off. Dunno what the residue is, but I'm afraid to leave it there for fear it "does something."