esplonky #701 Posted March 6, 2012 Go ahead and continue discussing plastics, but can we all just agree to not let that Billy Mays guy see this? I can only imagine the late night infomercials "oxycute-ing" all the old classics... Billy Mays died in like 2009 dude. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest #702 Posted March 6, 2012 Billy Mays died in like 2009 dude. Billy Mays is always watching Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Havok69 #703 Posted March 6, 2012 It's ok, the ShamWow guy took his place... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flashjazzcat #704 Posted March 7, 2012 Go ahead and continue discussing plastics, but can we all just agree to not let that Billy Mays guy see this? I can only imagine the late night infomercials "oxycute-ing" all the old classics... Billy Mays died in like 2009 dude. Six months after the quoted post was written... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimo #705 Posted March 16, 2012 Dude! Why didn't anyone think of that earlier! Halogen bulbs (and only those, not ordinary light bulbs!) emit quite a bit of UV. That's why they got a glass screen in front of them that filters the UV light. Thinking of that, did anyone ever try a "black light"? Late reply, but yes. It is a waste of time much better to use mother nature Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
31336haxx0r #706 Posted March 16, 2012 Okay then. Good thing it's getting quite sunny outside at the moment. Thanks for letting me know! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimo #707 Posted March 16, 2012 The last reply was from my phone collecting kids from school, so it was a bit brief. I purchased both a normal and low energy black light bulbs when I first started this topic, and everything was in it's infancy. Ok, the bulbs do work, there is very little between the two types. Things took about 3 days to process, whereas wrapping everything in cling wrap and leaving it in the garden takes between 20 minutes and 5-6 hours depending on the amount of sunlight and the yellowness of the plastic being treated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Guitarman #708 Posted March 16, 2012 Get a UV-B tube from the pet store. They are for reptile cages since reptiles need UV to survive. They work great for RetroBriting. And...they work when it's raining!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kogden #709 Posted March 18, 2012 Get a UV-B tube from the pet store. They are for reptile cages since reptiles need UV to survive. They work great for RetroBriting. And...they work when it's raining!!!! How big of a UVB tube would be needed? I have a bearded dragon who has a 12" flourescent UV-B light over his cage.... would that be big enough to get fairly even exposure? How long would it likely take? We usually have plenty of sun here but I'm kinda curious.... and I have extra peroxide gel from my wife recently dying her hair..... and I already have the UVB light.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
31336haxx0r #710 Posted March 18, 2012 I just have that picture in my head where the bearded dragon sits calmly just next to an Atari case, enjoying the light. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kogden #711 Posted March 19, 2012 Don't think the beardie would appreciate the peroxide gel.... or even breathing the fumes. He'd probably hang out on the back of the machine if it was turned on though to warm up some. Would make for a good pic.... goes well the the 400's prehistoric computing image..... especially in a dark room on a dark table with a small heat lamp out of the pic above the 400 to provide some illumination. But back to retrobriting..... the bulb is a 12% UVB 12" flourescent bulb.... and I have 30vol peroxide gel.... would this take all night or just a couple hours? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimo #712 Posted March 19, 2012 It would be best not to leave it all night IMO, you need to be sure that the peroxide does not dry out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Guitarman #713 Posted March 20, 2012 How big of a UVB tube would be needed? I have a bearded dragon who has a 12" flourescent UV-B light over his cage.... would that be big enough to get fairly even exposure? How long would it likely take? We usually have plenty of sun here but I'm kinda curious.... and I have extra peroxide gel from my wife recently dying her hair..... and I already have the UVB light.... I'm pretty sure I got the 12" bulb and fixture, that or the next size up. But back to retrobriting..... the bulb is a 12% UVB 12" flourescent bulb.... and I have 30vol peroxide gel.... would this take all night or just a couple hours? I did a 1200XL case with just the creme peroxide (I think it was 40%, if not, 30%) and it did a great job after about 4 hours. I am planning on getting a second fixture and lamp to supply more coverage. I use aluminum foil underneith and up the sides to help reflect the light with a single fixture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest #714 Posted March 20, 2012 Has anyone tried this on the keys from the 1200XL? The white part of the key is dirty (off white/yellowish), but I'm afraid to put this on the rest of the key because it's a glossy black color. Will this damage the keys? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flashjazzcat #715 Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) To be honest, I wouldn't risk it. I'd rather scrub the top of the key with some soapy water to try and bring the white up. I'm not sure if there's any real likelihood of the peroxide ruining the dark brown, but it seems risky. Edited March 20, 2012 by flashjazzcat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimo #716 Posted March 20, 2012 how about a quick dab of white paint, then wipe off the excess, should leave the indented letter nice and white. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flashjazzcat #717 Posted March 20, 2012 There doesn't seem to be much of an indentation on the 1200XL keys, unfortunately, otherwise that would have worked out nice. They've got a smooth, glossy finish (on mine, at least), as if the lettering is sealed under lacquer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gunstar #718 Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Go ahead and continue discussing plastics, but can we all just agree to not let that Billy Mays guy see this? I can only imagine the late night infomercials "oxycute-ing" all the old classics... Billy Mays died in like 2009 dude. Six months after the quoted post was written... LOL! I started checking dates on threads I'm replying to in recent years because of sticky threads and people drudging up old threads and if your not careful, your a dollar short and a day late on your comments. Edited March 25, 2012 by Gunstar 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esplonky #719 Posted March 28, 2012 Go ahead and continue discussing plastics, but can we all just agree to not let that Billy Mays guy see this? I can only imagine the late night infomercials "oxycute-ing" all the old classics... Billy Mays died in like 2009 dude. Six months after the quoted post was written... LOL! I started checking dates on threads I'm replying to in recent years because of sticky threads and people drudging up old threads and if your not careful, your a dollar short and a day late on your comments. Oh Wow. lol this is a large thread... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
w1k #720 Posted March 28, 2012 hi can i clean this scratches? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Stephen #721 Posted March 28, 2012 hi can i clean this scratches? Not likely, since the case is textured. Mine looks similar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dropcheck #722 Posted May 9, 2012 Well I've finally decided to give this a try. I've been lurking here for some time. Not quite sure if I wanted to risk it. But after retrieving an unbelievably filthy 130XE and XF551 off ebay, I could not let them anywhere next to my main machines until I had restored them to some kind of decent condition. Right now they are sitting in warm soapy water. At least the tops are. I don't want to destroy the manufacture's sticker on the bottom so for right now they are high and dry. Is there someway to loosen them off? Also the keycaps on the 130XE keyboard..... do they just pop off. Never took one apart that far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fox-1 / mnx #723 Posted May 9, 2012 Also the keycaps on the 130XE keyboard..... do they just pop off. They should just pop off, however... some are a real pain to get off. I use a screwdriver which I shove under the caps from the side, starting with the ESC key (I'm left handed so you may have to start with the BREAK key :-) ) Screwdriver is at the bottom end of the key, so below the center. Carefully lift the screwdriver while pressing a finger to the top-side part of the key to keep the key in a straight position will do the trick. It's seems harder to explain then actually doing it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flashjazzcat #724 Posted May 10, 2012 Well I've finally decided to give this a try. Just carefully paint the peroxide around the label on the underside of the case. Getting it a bit wet when you rinse the case won't matter too much. And you MUST mask or remove the aluminium badge on that XE - the peroxide will destroy it. If you remove it, heat the whole thing up with a hairdryer to soften the adhesive tape underneath. My preference would be to mask it off with electrician's tape or blu-tac. Best Electronics may still have spare 130XE case badges. I believe Brad ran out of 65XE badges a couple of years ago. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimo #725 Posted May 10, 2012 Also the keycaps on the 130XE keyboard..... do they juist pop off. They should just pop off, however... some are a real pain to get off. I use a screwdriver which I shove under the caps from the side, starting with the ESC key (I'm left handed so you may have to start with the BREAK key :-) ) Screwdriver is at the bottom end of the key, so below the center. Carefully lift the screwdriver while pressing a finger to the top-side part of the key to keep the key in a straight position will do the trick. It's seems harder to explain then actually doing it... I have done a load of these, and by far the quickest and easiest way to deal with the keyboard is by removing the back plate (lots of little screws), taking out the mylar and removing the silicone cups. In the past I removed all the key caps, but that is a real pain, literally Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord