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How to remove yellowing from an old Atari case

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Not all of NJ Some of us have standards

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On 7/22/2020 at 6:35 PM, Mclaneinc said:

Well the parts are on the way, will start with small stuff to see how it goes and then get more peroxide, I hope my SpeedPak stuff arrives undamaged.. (the UV bits), got 5L of peroxide on the way locally and turkey foil, again, locally..

Interested to see how things go Paul, I've been busy the past few weeks and haven't yet ordered the additional peroxide I need. I paid extra to get the UV LEDs from the UK so they arrived quicker too and then it's all been sat here for weeks! Oh well, I'll make sure to order the peroxide next week and can finally give this a go. So many cases to do.

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1 hour ago, Stephen said:

Not knowing that pretty much the entire state of New Jersey has already used her!  You'd be worried about more than things turning orange after that experience I can guarantee it.

 

Lol....That is a vision my peroxide and leds won't be able to remove ;)

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6 minutes ago, Tezz said:

Interested to see how things go Paul, I've been busy the past few weeks and haven't yet ordered the additional peroxide I need. I paid extra to get the UV LEDs from the UK so they arrived quicker too and then it's all been sat here for weeks! Oh well, I'll make sure to order the peroxide next week and can finally give this a go. So many cases to do.

As I'm a retrobrighting virgin I'm worried about ruining stuff so it will be all about checking..I'm hoping for nice results and will post before and after shots, certainly the now much talked about 800 (in the last few posts) and my 130XE desperately need a spruce up, the 130XE is particularly bad.

 

Good luck on your stuff, you will be ahead of me for sure as my leds are sat in good old China still. Foil wrap should be in the morn with the second 5L maybe in the afternoon..

 

Wish I'd gone the Brit route now but the price was very good..A week won't hurt...I've always been like a child when it comes to stuff like this, I want it now and I want it done but the old pocket says cost is more important..

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@Mclaneinc if you need to do the 103xe keyboard I found that the easiest way was to dismantle it rather than do the individual keys

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Ah yes, didn't think of that...Nice trick...Thank you old man....

 

PS, is that a prototype version?  The old 103XE :)

Edited by Mclaneinc

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1 hour ago, Mclaneinc said:

Ah yes, didn't think of that...Nice trick...Thank you old man....

 

PS, is that a prototype version?  The old 103XE :)

lol, no it's my addled brain playing tricks again :(

 

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15 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:

As I'm a retrobrighting virgin I'm worried about ruining stuff so it will be all about checking..I'm hoping for nice results and will post before and after shots, certainly the now much talked about 800 (in the last few posts) and my 130XE desperately need a spruce up, the 130XE is particularly bad.

 

Good luck on your stuff, you will be ahead of me for sure as my leds are sat in good old China still. Foil wrap should be in the morn with the second 5L maybe in the afternoon..

 

Wish I'd gone the Brit route now but the price was very good..A week won't hurt...I've always been like a child when it comes to stuff like this, I want it now and I want it done but the old pocket says cost is more important..

Touch wood I've not had any disasters over the years with the previous peroxide cream and sunlight so hopefully the liquid method continues in the same vein. The peroxide is currently out of stock at the supplier so hopefully that will be back in next week, if I'm ahead of you I'll let you know how it turns out :)

Edited by Tezz

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Please do Tezz, my second 5L of peroxide ordered yesterday turned up but the other two bits are not even in transit yet :)

 

I'm looking forward to the results and with the 130 it can't possibly get worse :)

 

I shall keep everything crossed for all of us doing this....

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Right, all my kit for retrobrighting is finally here after a poor choice in UV leds from China (cheap) being swapped for something better..

 

Time to clean up some items and let the games commence..I have to admit the idea of plopping some plastic in some liquid with LED's all around it and some bacofoil wrapping it producing nice original looking colours a bit odd but that's the science part..

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Well with all the right intentions I started but woke up this morning with flu symptoms, a headache, sore joints but no fever (yet) so gave up on stuff but I was thinking of the floating issue of the plastics, I saw people weight stuff down with bolts etc but I don't want to have to keep coming back to it to move stuff so I have some thin glass sheets, can anyone think of any reason not to just put that on top of the items?

 

Apart from some minor reflection can anyone see any issues?

 

Probably way over thinking it....

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That's an idea, thank you..

 

Just my luck I'll use something that reacts with the peroxide and I get a green machine out :)

 

Will give it a shot after this damn flu thing goes, stomachs turning, head hurts, aching but no temperature (thankfully)

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14 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said:

Just my luck I'll use something that reacts with the peroxide and I get a green machine out :)

You should be able to get stainless screws at the hardware store.  Take one of your original screws with you to match up the threads.  Maybe even get longer ones if you need the length to go through your weights.  Probably a good idea anyway so that you don't risk corroding your original screws.

 

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7 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:

Well with all the right intentions I started but woke up this morning with flu symptoms, a headache, sore joints but no fever (yet) so gave up on stuff but I was thinking of the floating issue of the plastics, I saw people weight stuff down with bolts etc but I don't want to have to keep coming back to it to move stuff so I have some thin glass sheets, can anyone think of any reason not to just put that on top of the items?

 

Apart from some minor reflection can anyone see any issues?

 

Probably way over thinking it....

Glass blocks UV light 

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realistically case parts dont float that much, just poke it with a stick every hour or two, its the damn keycaps that cause you hell cause they always want to go belly up

 

floating case parts not that big of a deal, they are more or less wet and exposed to light, just want to keep them wet 

Edited by Osgeld

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It's the keycaps that I have the most thought about, I can stick something on the big bits but those little buggers, was thinking of using blu-tak on them but will it even stick once in the peroxide?

 

Chemistry was not my big subject, to be honest not many were my big subject :)

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I have tried blue-tak on them before, it doesnt last long. in the past I stick them in their own container and stir frequently 

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3 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:

It's the keycaps that I have the most thought about, I can stick something on the big bits but those little buggers, was thinking of using blu-tak on them but will it even stick once in the peroxide?

 

Chemistry was not my big subject, to be honest not many were my big subject :)

leave the keycaps on the board, just take it apart from the bottom removing the silicone thingys and or springs

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I've been documenting my restoration of a 600xl on my twitter here: 

 

One of the first steps was retro-brighting using Neil from The Retro Mancave technique.

It was my first time doing any sort of retro-brighting, and I'm really happy with the result.

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Really nice Thomas, looks like it went swimmingly...

 

What is the hack on the last pic?

 

Is it the changing the impedance on the KB one?

 

Sadly after all the prep I was put off retrobrighting but its my own fault. Now you would think a huge plastic box covered in foil and UV led's popping out everywhere would be hard to miss but I put a C64 breadbin top half in and forgot about it despite it being under my feet (almost). When I took it out I was saddened to see that where the pillars the screws going into inside the top half were showing white circles on the outside of the case. So whereever the screws go into the top half there were light circles showing the size of the pillar inside...Bloody weird and very annoying.

 

So I did the bottom half and took much more care (ie didn't forget about it) and it came out ok but the top and bottom don't exactly match (top is lighter), its minor but you can see it close up..

 

I'm still going to do my USA Snes as its can't look any worse and fingers crossed it will be fine..

Edited by Mclaneinc

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