SDrive NUXX

[Mr.Amiga500]

Not sure that I explained my question properly, but the answer is yes you can copy disc images from the sdrive to a real disc.

I used mycopier loaded from sdrive, loaded up the image to be copied in D2 on the sdrive, set 1050 as drive 2. Loaded up my copier, swaped to D2 on the SDrive, hit start and off we went

 

Uh... anybody know where I can get mycopier to do this? I've read that it's in APE_WARP.ATR, but the ones I've found don't contain mycopier.

[mimo]

Not sure that I explained my question properly, but the answer is yes you can copy disc images from the sdrive to a real disc.

I used mycopier loaded from sdrive, loaded up the image to be copied in D2 on the sdrive, set 1050 as drive 2. Loaded up my copier, swaped to D2 on the SDrive, hit start and off we went

 

Uh... anybody know where I can get mycopier to do this? I've read that it's in APE_WARP.ATR, but the ones I've found don't contain mycopier.

 

you need

APE WARP (MyDOS 4.53) Utilities Dis.atr

it's on there

[Roydea6]

Uh... anybody know where I can get mycopier to do this? I've read that it's in APE_WARP.ATR, but the ones I've found don't contain mycopier.

 

That is part of the apetrail.exe installation when you download at : http://www.atarimax.com/

 

Here is another : By Glenn Smith.

MYCOPYR.zip

Edited September 27, 2009 by rdea6

[Mr.Amiga500]

Excellent! Thanks guys.

[Mr.Amiga500]

I guess I won't be enjoying the "old-style wait-forever floppy loading experience". I tried copying from SDrive to 1050, but no matter what I do I get "FORMATTING ERROR". I tried about 15 different disks. My 1050 is probably screwed up. Oh well, good thing I've got the SDrive.

[Fox-1 / mnx]

If you're using a sector copier (copy whole disk to disk) check if the density of the source is a format a 1050 can deal with. A stock 1050 can do single and enhanced (medium) density but no double/quad/whatever density.

[+bf2k+]

I guess I won't be enjoying the "old-style wait-forever floppy loading experience". I tried copying from SDrive to 1050, but no matter what I do I get "FORMATTING ERROR". I tried about 15 different disks. My 1050 is probably screwed up. Oh well, good thing I've got the SDrive.

 

Make sure you're not trying to use Hi-Density disks. They should be SSDD or DSDD.

[Shawn Jefferson]

So I finally got around to soldering all the parts on my SDrive NUXX board, and fired it up... and of course, missed the pins on the side of the SD Card slot. So after that fixing that, the green R led comes on briefly and goes out (so it seems like it's reading the SD card ok), but unfortunately the D1-D4 lights do not come on at all.

 

Power test points all read ok. While playing with it trying to get it to work, I noticed that touching the bottom of the board near the crystal and accompanying caps caused the lights to come on, and also the Left and Right buttons started working as well. I touched up these points with the soldering iron, but still no go. I wonder if my caps might be bad, or maybe the crystal?

[c0nsumer]

So I finally got around to soldering all the parts on my SDrive NUXX board, and fired it up... and of course, missed the pins on the side of the SD Card slot. So after that fixing that, the green R led comes on briefly and goes out (so it seems like it's reading the SD card ok), but unfortunately the D1-D4 lights do not come on at all.

 

Power test points all read ok. While playing with it trying to get it to work, I noticed that touching the bottom of the board near the crystal and accompanying caps caused the lights to come on, and also the Left and Right buttons started working as well. I touched up these points with the soldering iron, but still no go. I wonder if my caps might be bad, or maybe the crystal?

 

Sounds to me like you've got a bad solder joint somewhere. Also double-check the values of C7 and C8, the caps connected to the crystal. I wonder if your value isn't right and your touching the board is changing the capacitance enough to make the uC run. Also, post high-res photos of both sides of the completed board, if you can get them.

[Mr.Amiga500]

I've got to say it again - this SDrive NUXX is friggin awesome!

[c0nsumer]

I've got to say it again - this SDrive NUXX is friggin awesome!

 

Thank you.

 

Just please remember, it wouldn't have been possible without CPU doing all the original heavy lifting. I just made the packaging a bit shinier and more accessible.

[Shawn Jefferson]

Sounds to me like you've got a bad solder joint somewhere. Also double-check the values of C7 and C8, the caps connected to the crystal. I wonder if your value isn't right and your touching the board is changing the capacitance enough to make the uC run. Also, post high-res photos of both sides of the completed board, if you can get them.

 

The values of C7 and C8 are listed on your website as .22pF, but in post #284 in this thread, bcombee stated .22nF. Can you verify the value I should be using?

 

I've tested continuity to the crystal parts and the caps. I'm going to order a new crystal and new caps for C7 and C8, in case one or more of them is faulty. I've taken pictures, but because of the black coating they are pretty hard to see anything. The card reading seems to work ok, since when I put in a card with a FAT32 file system the green LED remains lit up. The reset button also works correctly.

[c0nsumer]

The values of C7 and C8 are listed on your website as .22pF, but in post #284 in this thread, bcombee stated .22nF. Can you verify the value I should be using?

 

The correct value is 22pF as I have listed, not .22pF nor .22nF. This can be double-checked in my schematic or C.P.U.'s original SDrive schematic. Other values will keep the crystal from oscillating properly and thus the AVR won't run right, etc. While I'd still suspect bad soldering, I wonder if your touching the board there changes the capacitance and makes things work.

 

I've tested continuity to the crystal parts and the caps. I'm going to order a new crystal and new caps for C7 and C8, in case one or more of them is faulty. I've taken pictures, but because of the black coating they are pretty hard to see anything. The card reading seems to work ok, since when I put in a card with a FAT32 file system the green LED remains lit up. The reset button also works correctly.

 

Go ahead and upload them anyway. If anything, maybe one of us can give you a pointer on photographing PCBs. It's a bit weird to get right. :\

Edited October 18, 2009 by c0nsumer

[Shawn Jefferson]

The correct value is 22pF as I have listed, not .22pF nor .22nF.

 

Thanks, that's what I've used (bought the parts directly from the list on your website).

 

While I'd still suspect bad soldering, I wonder if your touching the board there changes the capacitance and makes things work.

 

A continuity check seems to indicate that there is a connection between the various components. Touching the bottom of the board at that point definitely changes the operation, lights the four D1-D4 lights, and also allows the Right-Left buttons to work. Also, I've been able to almost boot the SDRIVE.ATR after doing so.

 

Go ahead and upload them anyway. If anything, maybe one of us can give you a pointer on photographing PCBs. It's a bit weird to get right. :\

 

Well, these pictures are a bit too blurry to be any help I think. The bottom of the board under C7/C8 and the crystal looks pretty bad after desoldering those components and resoldering them.

Edited October 18, 2009 by Shawn Jefferson

[Shawn Jefferson]

Ok, well I ordered new parts for the crystal, C7 and C8. Unfortunately no change in behaviour. I think the change in behaviour by touching these components on the bottom of the board is a red herring. I tested continuity of all components on the board, and everything seems good. I double-checked all the values of the caps (visual check), and all resistor values (ohm meter). I double-checked the programming of the Atmega-8, all seems to be good there. Although, I could not use PonyProg nor AVRDude since they would not work with my parallel port. I used AVR-ISP, and replicated the fuse settings from the AVRDude command line.

 

I'm wondering if the problem is not the board itself, but maybe either that it's not getting sufficient power from my Atari PS (I have a few different mods in this 800XL and a stock Atari PS), or it isn't able to read the SD card. I had thought it was reading the SD card properly, card insertion/removal detection works, but I renamed the SDRIVE.ATR on the SD card and the behaviour did not change (Green read LED lights momentarily and then shuts off.)

[c0nsumer]

Ok, well I ordered new parts for the crystal, C7 and C8. Unfortunately no change in behaviour. I think the change in behaviour by touching these components on the bottom of the board is a red herring. I tested continuity of all components on the board, and everything seems good. I double-checked all the values of the caps (visual check), and all resistor values (ohm meter). I double-checked the programming of the Atmega-8, all seems to be good there. Although, I could not use PonyProg nor AVRDude since they would not work with my parallel port. I used AVR-ISP, and replicated the fuse settings from the AVRDude command line.

 

I'm wondering if the problem is not the board itself, but maybe either that it's not getting sufficient power from my Atari PS (I have a few different mods in this 800XL and a stock Atari PS), or it isn't able to read the SD card. I had thought it was reading the SD card properly, card insertion/removal detection works, but I renamed the SDRIVE.ATR on the SD card and the behaviour did not change (Green read LED lights momentarily and then shuts off.)

 

I'd first try adding a bit more solder to the microcontroller socket pins, as they look a bit light. Then I'd also clean the flux from the board, as it's often slightly conductive and can lead to spurious results.

 

I doubt the problem is the board, but you can easily check this by looking at the board for any place where etching may not have been done right, or checking for shorts between traces. That said, I visually inspected every board before sending them off, so I like to think nothing was missed.

 

Perhaps you'd want to check the SD card pins as well? The ones on the side are particularly small, and if the card detect pin isn't working quite right you could get some weirdness.

[Shawn Jefferson]

I'd first try adding a bit more solder to the microcontroller socket pins, as they look a bit light. Then I'd also clean the flux from the board, as it's often slightly conductive and can lead to spurious results.

 

Sure, I'll do that. Can you clean the flux after having everything soldered to the board?

 

 

I doubt the problem is the board, but you can easily check this by looking at the board for any place where etching may not have been done right, or checking for shorts between traces. That said, I visually inspected every board before sending them off, so I like to think nothing was missed.

 

I meant that I also doubt the problem is the board, or the components.

 

Perhaps you'd want to check the SD card pins as well? The ones on the side are particularly small, and if the card detect pin isn't working quite right you could get some weirdness.

 

Sure, I can double check these as well. I'm going to try another SD card tonight as well.

[c0nsumer]

Sure, I'll do that. Can you clean the flux after having everything soldered to the board?

 

Be very careful around any electromechanical parts that aren't sealed, like the dip switches and tactile switches. I'd also remove the AVR because it's sensitive enough that you could damage it. Otherwise, it should be fine to clean. Just be careful and make sure it's all dry (including under/in the SD slot) before you power it up.

 

For what it's worth, I solder everything not-static-or-water-sensitive on to boards, then wash off the water soluble flux with hot water and a tooth brush. The boards are then dried with a mixture of hot and compressed air. Then the remaining parts are fitted or soldered in place with no-clean flux, and everything is done.

[Shawn Jefferson]

ARGH! It was the SD card I was trying to use. An old Toshiba 16MB SD card... it doesn't work. The only other card I had lying around was a 4GB Min-SD with adapter, and after checking the documentation and realizing that only up to 2GB is supported, I went and bought a new 2GB card. Works perfectly! At least the lights all do what they are supposed to now. I need to hook up my Atari to the TV and fully test it, but I suspect it will be fine.

 

Thanks for your help as I was fumbling around with this. I just immediately suspected either my soldering or some of the components, not the card, since it works fine in the PC. It's too bad, as my desoldering and guerrilla troubleshooting made a bit of a mess of your beautiful board.

 

Shawn

Edited October 27, 2009 by Shawn Jefferson

[c0nsumer]

ARGH! It was the SD card I was trying to use. An old Toshiba 16MB SD card... it doesn't work. The only other card I had lying around was a 4GB Min-SD with adapter, and after checking the documentation and realizing that only up to 2GB is supported, I went and bought a new 2GB card. Works perfectly! At least the lights all do what they are supposed to now. I need to hook up my Atari to the TV and fully test it, but I suspect it will be fine.

 

Thanks for your help as I was fumbling around with this. I just immediately suspected either my soldering or some of the components, not the card, since it works fine in the PC.

 

Shawn

 

Excellent, I'm really glad to hear that. If the lights do what they are supposed to, it should all be set. Enjoy!

 

-Steve

[c0nsumer]

If anyone is interested, I have one more assembled SDrive NUXX for sale. Someone specially requested that I build one for them, so I also built a second to offer here on the board. The price is US$150 shipped to the US, plus an additional US$7 for international shipping if needed. Per usual shipping is via USPS Priority Mail, and as it's all built and boxed up it'll ship right away. I can accept payment via Google Checkout, PayPal, or most any other decent payment systems. PM me if you're interested.

 

Thanks!

[mimo]

This is probably a dumb ass question, but is there any way to have long file names as default (ctrl+L)?

I use it all the time and would prefer not to have to enable the feature every time I boot.

[a8isa1]

This is probably a dumb ass question, but is there any way to have long file names as default (ctrl+L)?

I use it all the time and would prefer not to have to enable the feature every time I boot.

CTRL+W (write config to disk, SDRIVE.ATR)

L (enable long filename display)

Y (accept changes and save to disk)

Edited January 7, 2010 by a8isa1

[c0nsumer]

This is probably a dumb ass question, but is there any way to have long file names as default (ctrl+L)?

I use it all the time and would prefer not to have to enable the feature every time I boot.

CTRL+W (write config to disk, SDRIVE.ATR)

L (enable long filename display)

Y (accept changes and save to disk)

 

Note that after doing this if you wish to boot without the saved config you can boot the SDRIVE.ATR while holding down SHIFT, then one of the menu options (I forget which right now) will load the control program without using the saved config.

 

Also note that via a saved config such as this one can auto-mount disk images, turn on automatic booting of one of those, etc.

 

I use a config file like this as part of testing assembled SDrive NUXXs so I can get the needed DOS and such.

[ianoid]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to transfer files on a disk to the SD card in an SDNuxx? We have some old files we want to archive, and we couldn't figure it out with the typical AtariDOS. I know it can't be too tough, but we never really dealt with command line DOS commands on XL/XE. Or is there a program I should look out for to make it easy to do?

 

I was going to use that SIO2PC device to hook up an 850 to a serial port, but none of my PCs have serial ports. I'm hoping to avoid upgrading to the USB version to do this when I have an SDNuxx.