2600 Video out MADE COMPOSITE OUT for 2600

[awace]

I hooked lifted cr2303 dioed and hooked pins 2 5 7 and 8 together on tia chip then soldered that to the top of resisor 210 the chroma one then hooked composite rca cable + to that connection for compsotie video this means pins 2 pins 5 pins 7 and pins 8 are tied to gether then to resistor 210 yellow brown black gold black bigger greensih resitor needs to be tied to the pins 2 5 7 and 8 this way if you only lift dioed cr2303 then the original color adjusting chroma pot still works!!!!! the audio was just picked off above or mabie i got it from the tia chip where i had used to have a stereo mod but gave up on that cause only tank seemed to be stereo as far as orgional games anyway it works great exept for pacman sounds lame on start but i think i screwed up my tv's hidden sharp agc menu adjustments so i am going to forget about audio. anyway the using 2 5 7 and 8 plus the r210 worked now i have no need for rf mod output resisor nor the cap either so there is no rf comming out of the atari as whell as interferance to other things like near other tv's!!!

if you look at bens picture you can see the green resitor he replaced w a cap i just soldered the top to pins 2 5 7 8 and hooked that to composite then used pacman to get the

yellow then put space invaders in and adjusted to the last time i seen it on the emulation . I dont have a svideo tv so i dont care for NOW .

but at first when i tried to pick composite off board i didnt know it was old school chroma signals I thought composit was on a pin the rf mod must be at baseband ch3-4 usign those chroma signals i dont have a clue exept when you short pins 2 5 7 8 to r210 then use that as composite it works and the color (tint (HUE ) adjust pot still works I only lifted the doied cause it seemed conveient and ben did it in that pic so i did it too.!

the tia chip is the on to the left of those resistors in that picture the coil w the red plastic can be in different spot and wont make difference.. at least since this was

Sears® arcade II it still seemed to have same pins on resistors even though the red choke coil was in differnt spot.

i was getting audio from the resistor one to the right of the pin 8 one in that picture

Edited March 11, 2009 by awace

[S1500]

Pretty slick, and you're a local too!

[Deteacher]

that's cool!

 

So, I guess the HDMI VCS will be next.

[keilbaca]

Oh neat, you can do that.

 

I'm going to have to try that on my sears video arcade II. For some odd reason when I pull the Chroma, its either really fuzzy, or if I try to do it directly off of the TIA, its not a clear signal.

 

I'm gonna have to play with this to see if this will give my sears video arcade II composite. I sure hope so, that's the only console that I cannot mod for composite.

[+batari]

What did you do now? Apparently others understand but it appears to me you just tied TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together, and if I'm correct, that won't work well. Those pins are open drain digital outputs, and while it probably won't damage anything, the output will be a logical AND of all the signals which is certainly not how they were intended to work.

 

Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.

 

His page seems broken but here is google's cache:

 

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:xMoNK.../2600mods.shtml

Edited March 12, 2009 by batari

[keilbaca]

Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.

[+batari]

Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.

[+Nathan Strum]

Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.

 

His page seems broken but here is google's cache:

This is the correct link:

http://www.cheeptech.com/2600mods/2600mods.html

 

The ".shtml" page no longer works.

Edited March 13, 2009 by Nathan Strum

[awace]

What did you do now? Apparently others understand but it appears to me you just tied TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together, and if I'm correct, that won't work well. Those pins are open drain digital outputs, and while it probably won't damage anything, the output will be a logical AND of all the signals which is certainly not how they were intended to work.

 

Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.

 

His page seems broken but here is google's cache:

 

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:xMoNK.../2600mods.shtml

i also hooked those to resisor 210 too then to composite in on vcr YES IT DONT WORK VERY WHELL but the rf modulator has been unhooked from power and it still works BUT the © 1982 asteroids screen wont work it stays blue till colored rocks appare on screen then it works also in basket ball the black and white turns more a grey and white the black dude turns dark grey w purple roastage on the ends but NO MORE broken rf cables so im happy .

also my freind played he beat the HELL out of me in jets on combat after I woudlnt let him move on tanks then he beat me in basket ball both on Atari 2600 and further more on the oddessy 2 i just got carts 7 of them off ebay for $10.00 also even he couldnt beat 2600 basket ball AI autmatic dude even in atract mode so for a 2 to 4k basket ball game atari2600 basket ball has some great AI. also we figured out defender 2600 you can go UP into radar screen and hyper space I didnt know that till today cayse i never tried it...

[awace]

Oh neat, you can do that.

 

I'm going to have to try that on my sears video arcade II. For some odd reason when I pull the Chroma, its either really fuzzy, or if I try to do it directly off of the TIA, its not a clear signal.

 

I'm gonna have to play with this to see if this will give my sears video arcade II composite. I sure hope so, that's the only console that I cannot mod for composite.

remember to hook that to resisor 210 as whell yes its crappy and might not work whell but i just wanted to unhook the power into the rf mod cause the cable was shot and i kept having to resolder every time i changed from tv to atari now i just switch vcr to video 2 channel and viola Atari w no cable problems. also you could add the stereo out I used a old 50 footer ok mabie a old radio shack 100 foot rca white cord i snipped in the middle so i could get two output rca's out of it.. I had already lifted one of the tia's sound pins to hear seprate tank sounds one day then resoldered it back to the other pin w a solder bridge incase i got a nother rca cord to add stereo HMM a use for the ch3 ch4 switch mono shorted out or stereo out!!! so when playing tank stereo is ch4 and ch3 is just unhooked in stead of shorting out sterero outs incase not playing a stereo game.

PS as you all can see I dont like grammer .. PPS im going to burn a nother game to the boootleg cart this time like my dad said you need 7.1,even or none cause you cant send hex in 8 bits cause the 7,1 is the 8th bit so all i have to do is run bin2hex.exe from cmd.exe and then send normal put the burner in 7,1 then send the .bin file after i run bin2hex.exe hanglypac.bin

witch makes hanglypac.hex then i rename to 0.hex incase a chip dont like long names then send it chanigng hyperterm to 7,1,none then it might not says usart error or incorrect file cause it has to be hex cause you cant send binary over serial !!! you have to send it hexadecimal binary!!! anyway my dad said try 7,1 then run bin2hex then send that..

ill tell all if it works cause if it does I will be playing hangly pac on sears arcade II now i wish i had that damn transistor from the video amp benhack heck hack!!!!...

oh before i forget only dont remove anything just run jumpers to those places those pins are on the top of the resistors and to the resisor 210 too I think i removed one doied ALSO I Bet that video amp on bens page would help but the color resistor still works but its more tewakey sensitive... cr2505 unhooked too .

Edited March 14, 2009 by awace

[awace]

that's cool!

 

So, I guess the HDMI VCS will be next.

what the hell is that ( just kidding ) I do have a old copy of nanopvr so you could gouge a hauppauge into svideo in if you wanted!!!!!! that used w a new hauppauge and descaler might just be the same thing!!!!!!! desaler is cool so are hauppauge's cause if there old you can choose japan pal mode for pal 2600 games. luckaly my deadly duck game is ntsc!!

[awace]

What did you do now? Apparently others understand but it appears to me you just tied TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together, and if I'm correct, that won't work well. Those pins are open drain digital outputs, and while it probably won't damage anything, the output will be a logical AND of all the signals which is certainly not how they were intended to work.

 

Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.

 

His page seems broken but here is google's cache:

 

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:xMoNK.../2600mods.shtml

TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together and hooked those to r210 connected it to rca composite out and removed (lifted )cr2303 ..

ok i guess ill have to take a picture of it...

hmm i wonder if i could just feed those signals into the zenith rf modulator using 9v in and hooking to the agc pot backwards not using ch3 out but chomping off pins on the rf mod DAMN now i wish i haddnt thrown cable boxes in dumpster ok yes i am.

[awace]

Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.

what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo

[+batari]

Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.

what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo

Digital means the signals are either on or off, and analog means the signals can vary in their voltage level.

 

The chroma and 3 luma signals from the TIA are either on or off, and by tying them together, they can collectively be only on or off. Therefore, you will have no ability to display varying levels of brightness, so your pixels will be either on or off. Also, in some cases you may have no chroma signal, which means the screen will be black and white. You still have color, because it's the phase, not the level that produces color (phase depends on the timing, not the level of the signals, so you usually have color, unless your chroma doesn't get through.)

 

The correct way to tie chroma and lumas together is with a digital-to-analog converter. There are various ways to do this, some better than others, but the simplest is the BenHeck mod that consists of just a few pots - it doesn't work as well as the transistor mod but it does work. It's really not much harder than what you did and will actually produce acceptable results in most cases.

[awace]

Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.

what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo

Digital means the signals are either on or off, and analog means the signals can vary in their voltage level.

 

The chroma and 3 luma signals from the TIA are either on or off, and by tying them together, they can collectively be only on or off. Therefore, you will have no ability to display varying levels of brightness, so your pixels will be either on or off. Also, in some cases you may have no chroma signal, which means the screen will be black and white. You still have color, because it's the phase, not the level that produces color (phase depends on the timing, not the level of the signals, so you usually have color, unless your chroma doesn't get through.)

 

The correct way to tie chroma and lumas together is with a digital-to-analog converter. There are various ways to do this, some better than others, but the simplest is the BenHeck mod that consists of just a few pots - it doesn't work as well as the transistor mod but it does work. It's really not much harder than what you did and will actually produce acceptable results in most cases.

thank you I thought the transistor was a amp but i guess it acts as a flanger type of amp i would guess in stead of on off the amp idea must make it more of a delayed + amplified type of signal that must be why frogger sounds tinny ... cause there is no cap to make it fuzzy I wonder what that new mini tube type amp nuts and volts has for a guitar amp /pick up would look like instead of the transistor ..

so if i take the output and run it through a amp transistor i can vary it w pot hmm would the motor control voltage regular I used for my laser mirror hobby motor work then i could adjust it.. anyway ben hecks this still is confusing me but I guess all transistors are mostly hooked the same

like 340t (7805) input 9-15v dc on input pin then gnd the middle one then outputs 5v thats probably why the © asteroids c screen does not light up on my vcr cause the signal is weak at 1st i thought i could steal composit off the rf chip but no what kind of transisitor was that a npn or pnp I was wondering why on basket ball in the b/w mode it was white vs grey with purple outlines cause the signal is to weak like you said. I totaly understood it I just have to wait till tue when i dont work to goto r shack for the amp transistor ans i will probaby just use the rf mod 4.5 v for and probably use the same hole just empty the rf mod pcb leaving the inputs but not the reistors so i can reuse the pcb I might even find out the existing rf mod transistor might work but dont know.