Just hooked up my Atari again...

[Herbarius]

...so I had this Atari 2600 up on my cupboard for nearly 10 years. I was born in the mid-eighties, so I'm not from the Atari age, however I'm a retro-games geek I got the 2600 like 10 years ago, I already was interested in retro-games then, some friends of my parents saw me tampering with an Commodore 64 and so they just gave me their old Atari 2600 for free, some games included. But back then I figure this was too primitive even for my standards or I just had a bad day or something like that, as I've put the console in a plastic bag (to protect from dust) and onto my cupboard the same day... (perhaps it wasn't so good that one of the carts was Pac-Man)

 

However, a few days ago I unpacked it again and I'd like to play it every once in a while and perhaps even collect some more games! First I discovered the AC adaptor was broken, but luckily I could replace that. So now the system works. It's a 4-switch model, PAL version (I'm from Germany).

 

However, while it works quite fine, it isn't really in top condition. There are some issues which are bothering me.

 

1. The picture has some blurry "artefacts" (looks kinda like bad JPEG compression). Also, there's some grey/white "grain", especially on black backgrounds. I first thought it's the TV, but no matter how much I tune, it won't get better. However I discovered if I apply pressure on right handed side of the top of the console, it reduces these effects (they do not completely vanish.)

 

2. You better not tuch the power cord at the back of the console or the cartridge while playing - because the game may freeze, go to black screen or reset.

 

3. The Game Select switch is worn out, sometimes I have to push it repeatedly in order to switch to the next mode.

 

I thought about opening the case and try to fix these issues to "rejuvenate" the 2600. Can you give me any advise on that?

 

There are also two other questions propably not related to the system itself:

 

The only game the color/bw switch seems to work on is Pac-Man. Most games are in color even if I set it to B/W. Is this normal? I figure there might be just a few games supporting B/W?

 

Also, one game, Cross Force, appears to be dead. It just displays a picture of colored vertical bars, accompanied by a beeping or buzzing sound. If I turn the Atari off and then back on, I'll get a different sound and/or picture. Sometimes there's no sound at all, sometimes it's just sound, but a black screen. On rare occasions it has horizontal or diagonal lines scrolling very fast. I already cleaned the contacts, but it didn't help. Do you think there's still some hope?

Edited April 4, 2009 by Herbarius

[VideoFever1982]

I don't see why not. Iv'e fixed worse. The color to bw switch doesn't change every game so if you have one that runs in color even with the switch set to bw, thats normal. If you tear this thing down, you'll find that you can re solder the socket for the ac adapter in the back. That'll stop the resetting. Basically a split second shut-down and restart causing a game to freeze or reset altogether. As for the reset switch, those come apart as well. Look at it close and see if there is anything that could help. Close examination of it moving while your inside the case may reveal something.

[shadow460]

You need to re heat every solder joint in that 2600. It sounds to me like that will fix most of the issues you have. It may even fix Cross Force.

 

As for Cross Force, you can heat the labels with a hair dryer and peel them off. Remove the screws, clean the dust and glue off of everything, and then re solder all the joints on the little circuit board. Do be careful to not damage the shell or labels, you may want to use them even if you have to put a new board into the cart. If reheating solder joints doesn't work, then the board is probably dead. Keep the labels and shell and see if you can get one that's got horrid labels on the cheap, or if someone here can build you a board for it.

 

The whole job could take you several hours. While you're in there, re seat any ICs that are in sockets, and if they have insertion tools on the socket, remove those tools and store them somewhere inside the 2600's case. If you've got a green cart slot, it may need replaced. You might also have a look at the service manual (just Google it) and see what else might have been problematic for similar consoles back in the day.

Take your time. Also if you can get a desoldering tool, have one handy and heated up in case you make a mistake.

 

Oh, yeah, you can clean out the switches with Q tips and a cotton swab, but I bet the reason they don't work is that the solder joints are loose on the board.

Edited April 5, 2009 by shadow460

[Herbarius]

Thanks for you replys, I already thought resoldering everything could help, but I didn't want to do anything without asking more experienced Atari owners.

However, I don't really understand what you mean by this:

While you're in there, re seat any ICs that are in sockets, and if they have insertion tools on the socket, remove those tools and store them somewhere inside the 2600's case.

"insertion tools"? In the game Cross Force or in the 2600 itself? Why should I put it into the 2600's case and where?

 

Also, I'm not sure about the green cartridge slot... In the web I found this picture:

 

On the picture, you can very clearly see its green!

However, if I look into my cartridge slot (I've the same Vader design as in the photo), its very hard to tell... If you look closely you can see they're are in fact green, but its not like in the picture, much less distinctive.

 

However, provided I have that green cartridge slot, how do I get it replaced? Wouldn't it be cheaper to try getting a completely new 2600 on ebay?

Also, I think there is no problem in just using the console and hoping for the best, replacing the cartridge slot only when it broke down? Or is there a risk of damaging my games or other parts of the 2600?

 

 

Concerning Cross Force: Yes, thank you. I already opened the case, because I noticed its the only game where the board would "wobble around" inside. I tried to fix it in position using some insulating tape, but wasn't really succesful. I don't think its the reason why the game won't work, but perhaps its an additional problem? Any suggestions?

Edited April 6, 2009 by Herbarius

[Ian Primus]

Concerning Cross Force: Yes, thank you. I already opened the case, because I noticed its the only game where the board would "wobble around" inside. I tried to fix it in position using some insulating tape, but wasn't really succesful. I don't think its the reason why the game won't work, but perhaps its an additional problem? Any suggestions?

 

Have you tried cleaning it? Clean the edge connector on the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol. Scrub with a paper towel or cotton swab until you stop getting black gunk coming off.

 

-Ian

[Ian Primus]

However, provided I have that green cartridge slot, how do I get it replaced? Wouldn't it be cheaper to try getting a completely new 2600 on ebay?

Also, I think there is no problem in just using the console and hoping for the best, replacing the cartridge slot only when it broke down? Or is there a risk of damaging my games or other parts of the 2600?

 

The "green cart slot problem" affected only very early production six switch models. It was a technical bulliten from Atari because they found these early cartridge slots wore out quickly - and they noted that when Atari service centers received machines for repair with the old connector, they should be replaced. This was fixed very early on - your Vader model will be fine.

 

If you want to clean the cartridge slot, simply take a bit of clean computer paper and fold it over a couple times, until it's about as thick as a circuit board. Cut it to the width of the connector on the end of a game cartridge (like an inch and a half or so), and gently insert the folded edge of the paper into the cartridge slot of your Atari. You'll have to open the little door first - stick a flat blade screwdriver into one of the little notches on either side of the connector, and that will open the door. Press the paper down into the slot, and pull it back out. It'll have a bunch of little lines on it from the dirt coming off the connector fingers. Repeat with clean paper until you don't have any more crud coming off. For very dirty consoles, alcohol can be added to the paper.

 

It's rare that a console really needs to be cleaned, only if you have a large number of games that don't work. And even then, it's usually the game that needs to be cleaned.

 

Your RF noise problem could be due to loose shielding inside the console. Open it up, and check that metal box that surrounds the middle of the board. It should be clipped in tightly. If it's started to rust along the bottom, or was removed before and not properly clipped back in, you might have minor interference. Try pushing on it when the game is on - and see if it changes anything. Remember that the Atari is a very early game console, and the RF connection never was the greatest out there. You're not necessarily going to get a perfect picture in every case, a small amount of noise is common.

 

-Ian

[shadow460]

Did you happen to notice what was on the ROM IC of Cross Force? Was it an EEPROM with the little window? How about an AMD chip with their old double triangle logo? I have had several dead carts, and out of them only one has not had the AMD ROM IC.

 

The IC insertion tools will be found in the 2600. Like the cart slot, though, they were a problem with early models. There's a possibility Atari might have kept leaving them in the units, though. I've never seen a set of them, but the service manual does talk about them. If you find them, simply remove them and store them where you won't lose them. I typically store "old" parts like that (and the BIOS IC in my 7800) inside the case of whatever system I removed them from so that if I want to put them back later, I have them handy. Anywhere you can secure them is fine.

 

On Cross Force, I still think it's a dead ROM, but here are some ideas I forgot to mention, since if the cleaning doesn't work, reflowing the board usually does.

 

Clean the contacts as described above. If you've still got the label off, remove the board for the cleaning so you can have easier access to the contact area. Actually, if the board is out, clean the entire thing after you've cleaned the contacts. Rubbing alcohol is fine, and you can probably even use the same swab you cleaned the contacts with.

 

Insert just the board into the VCS with the IC's facing up/away from you. If you can "play the board" reliably, then it's an issue with the cart case. If the board won't load, wiggle it around a bit and push the IC around a bit...gently, of course. Try it several times before considering the board to be dead. If it loads even once, remove the board and lightly sand down the contacts with fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Re clean and re-test. If that fixes it, great!

 

If that doesn't fix it, re heat all the solder joints on the board as described above.

 

If that doesn't work, there may be cracks on the board which can be fixed by scraping away the green stuff on either side of the crack and jumping it with conductive wire. Also, the program on the board may have been lost, or one of the components may be shot. I'm not real familiar with SpectraVision boards, so I don't know if they did any funky stuff.

[Herbarius]

Insert just the board into the VCS with the IC's facing up/away from you. If you can "play the board" reliably, then it's an issue with the cart case. If the board won't load, wiggle it around a bit and push the IC around a bit...gently, of course.

Okay, I tried it. It won't work either this way, but it obviously behaves differently. Instead of having vertical colored bars most of the times and occasionally the scrolling horizontal weird bars it's now - "playing" just the board - the other way 'round: Most of the time its the weird horizontal bars and only occasionally the vertical stripes.

 

Did you happen to notice what was on the ROM IC of Cross Force? Was it an EEPROM with the little window? How about an AMD chip with their old double triangle logo? I have had several dead carts, and out of them only one has not had the AMD ROM IC.

Its just a plain black chip without a window and without a logo, but with these writings:

SA 203P 
E 2332 
1 1 8 3

 

I'm not real familiar with SpectraVision boards, so I don't know if they did any funky stuff.

There's no funky stuff, just that one chip on the small circuit board, connecting it to the connectors. On the back of the circuit board it says "SPECTRAVIDEO" (What's that all about, why does the label say "Spectravision" and everything else (back of the cartridge, circuit board) "Spectravideo").

Also one of the soldered joints on the back of the board doesn't look so good, so it really could help. I'll see to get an opportunity to fix it.

[Herbarius]

So, I re-soldered Cross Force, but it didn't help. So the chip is propably dead.

 

Taking into account how troublesome it was just to solder that one game, I'll for now refraing from resoldering everything inside the 2600! However I still openend it, did a little bit of dust cleaning and looked for obvious defects. The metal box in the middle (below the cartridge slot) had to do with this noise on screen. When you put it on the table and pressed on top, it would reduce the noise, if you didn't push and maybe lifted the board from the table (like it's lifted in the original case!) it had strong noise. I just used some tape here and there and now the noise is gone (okay, it's not really "gone" but I've to turn up the TV brightness very high to see it - much higher than comfort level.)

Edited April 8, 2009 by Herbarius

[shadow460]

Yup, time to chalk up Cross Force to the RIP pile. You tried, though, and that counts.