MFoolsRun Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Hi, I scored a Colecovision at a tag-sale today, got it home, powered it on, and it works! But in all games right-direction behaves as though it's held down; the character moves to the right constantly. I tried both controllers that came with this system, and two controllers that I had from a DOA Coleco I'd gotten last year, all with the same result. I haven't yet tried whether the problem exists for player2. So my question is this: what should I try? How might I fix this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Thag Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Colecos are very sensitive to static charge. I believe you have a fried controller logic chip. It's not hard to replace, if memory serves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchoolRetroGamer Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 likely just a worn sticky controller, If you are up to it unplug and try each controller seperate and see if it's just one of them........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdement Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I don't know the CV, but I think the controllers work similar to most other old systems like the Atari. There aren't many things it could be. One of the pins controls right movement, it should normally be 5v and the controller pulls it to ground when moving right. It's apparently not the controllers. Just to confirm you could also check the pin with a multimeter without any controller plugged into it. If it's +5v yet it acts like you're going right, then the controller IC must be fried. If it's 0v, then maybe it's still the IC or else something else is pulling it down. Check anything connected to that trace on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFoolsRun Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Heh, multimeter work is a little beyond my usual "clean and pray" skillset for console repair. Besides, it turns out it pulls right even when there's no controller plugged in, so I think you're right, something's fried. But thanks for the info, everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
else Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 You do a visual inspection of the pins, just to make sure none are bent (if you haven't already).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubledown Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 The problem is definately the Texas Instruments SN74LS541 Octal Buffer(s) at U18 (player 2) and/or U19 (player 1). It/They would need to be replaced, and are still readily available if you have the ability to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+McCallister Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 The problem is definately the Texas Instruments SN74LS541 Octal Buffer(s) at U18 (player 2) and/or U19 (player 1). It/They would need to be replaced, and are still readily available if you have the ability to solder. Jumping into this thread with a similar problem: controller port one automatically fires one shot or jumps once, then the fire buttons no longer work. Would this be the same as the pulling to the right problem with the same solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+5-11under Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 The problem is definately the Texas Instruments SN74LS541 Octal Buffer(s) at U18 (player 2) and/or U19 (player 1). It/They would need to be replaced, and are still readily available if you have the ability to solder. Jumping into this thread with a similar problem: controller port one automatically fires one shot or jumps once, then the fire buttons no longer work. Would this be the same as the pulling to the right problem with the same solution? Yep, basically the same problem, with the same solution. 5-11under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daj977 Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Where would I find that piece to replace? Sorry new to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 console5.com has replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irongauvin Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 On 5/18/2009 at 2:04 PM, doubledown said: The problem is definately the Texas Instruments SN74LS541 Octal Buffer(s) at U18 (player 2) and/or U19 (player 1). It/They would need to be replaced, and are still readily available if you have the ability to solder. Hi. My Colecovision is doing the same thing even when I don’t have a controller plugged into port 1, it’s always stuck to the right. What Indon’t get is it’s intermittent!! It can play fine for an hour and bang it does this. A few weeks after, I can try it and it’s ok for a while and bang again!! Is this the same issue with the U19 player 1 or port 1 that is defective? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 If you have compressed air, blow it on the IC closest to the controller port when it starts acting up, to see if it calms down. Chances are good though that it's the IC giving up when it warms up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiLic0ne t0aD Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Make sure you socket those octal buffer IC's first, before soldering in new ones. Makes for easy replacement in the future, if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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