Restoring Games and Labels

[disjaukifa]

Hey Guys,

 

I want to know what you think. I have a lot of games nothing better than a 3 on the Rarity Guide here however a lot of them are dirty, nasty, etc. What is ya'lls thought on taking off the Labels, opening the carts, cleaning everything really well and then print a new label and put it on the cartridge.

 

I consider this a restoration of the games, because you can clean the cartridges really well and put nice labels on them so they look like new. What are ya'lls thoughts about this???

 

Thanks

Disjaukifa

[Cebus Capucinis]

Hey Guys,

 

I want to know what you think. I have a lot of games nothing better than a 3 on the Rarity Guide here however a lot of them are dirty, nasty, etc. What is ya'lls thought on taking off the Labels, opening the carts, cleaning everything really well and then print a new label and put it on the cartridge.

 

I consider this a restoration of the games, because you can clean the cartridges really well and put nice labels on them so they look like new. What are ya'lls thoughts about this???

 

Thanks

Disjaukifa

 

The label's not original, though! I like my games in pristine condition like finding a bear in the wild instead of in a zoo!

Actually I feel like the somewhat "beat up" ones have a lot of personality and they're more fun to look at, it shows that someone loved the game and used it!

[seanhq]

I think if the label is beat to hell or completely missing that making a replacement isn't a bad idea, but I like having my collection being as original as possible. Some of my Activision labels are pretty blotchy (typical). Of course you could try and track down a replacement cart that's in better condition.

 

As for cleaning the game cartridges, you can clean the connectors pretty easily with q-tips and rubbing alcohol.

Edited September 26, 2009 by seanhq

[disjaukifa]

The label's not original, though! I like my games in pristine condition like finding a bear in the wild instead of in a zoo!

Actually I feel like the somewhat "beat up" ones have a lot of personality and they're more fun to look at, it shows that someone loved the game and used it!

 

Yeah I know the labels not original and for some of the more rare games that makes sense to preserver it as best as you but I as the same time like everything looking nice and new.

 

 

I think if the label is beat to hell or completely missing that making a replacement isn't a bad idea, but I like having my collection being as original as possible. Some of my Activision labels are pretty blotchy (typical). Of course you could try and track down a replacement cart that's in better condition.

 

As for cleaning the game cartridges, you can clean the connectors pretty easily with q-tips and rubbing alcohol.

 

See I agree with you on this as well.

 

Here is what makes me made, I went to a flee market this morning and got Yar's Revenge and Dig Dug for 2 bucks because the labels were in ok shape, the guy had some in really nice shape and wanted 12.99 for Yar's Revenge and 14.99 for the Dig Dug.

 

I guess the label doesn't add all that much value to me as much as the game it self which which would be the PCB with the PROM chip on it.

 

I am thinking about restoring some of my games so they look better. I know it won't be "Original" but that is what is a restoration is suppose to do, take something that is not in good shape a make it better.

 

Could you imagine if classic cars didn't have the same value unless it was the "original" paint job. I can guarantee you people would repaint a classic to improve the shape on the car.

 

-Disjaukifa

[MS-DOS]

The label on my star was cartridge was peeling off, so I just glued it back on. Bam! Restored!

[seanhq]

The label on my star was cartridge was peeling off, so I just glued it back on. Bam! Restored!

What kind of glue did you use?

[disjaukifa]

The label on my star was cartridge was peeling off, so I just glued it back on. Bam! Restored!

What kind of glue did you use?

 

I want to know that as well!!!

 

Thanks

Disjaukifa

[shadow460]

I use Elmer's school glue sticks.

 

Here's a list of the repair supplies I use:

Ajax dishwashing liquid

Goo Gone (removes sticky gunk)

Fingernail polish remover (removes Sharpie marks, but can burn plastic)

Elmer's School Glue sticks (secures labels to carts)

Rosin core solder (repairs ring cracks)

dish rags

70/30 isopropyl rubbing alcohol

cotton swabs

Clear packaging tape (resurfaces some labels that are peeling badly)

cyanoacrylate super glue (repairs cart shells)

 

And the tools:

15/30 watt soldering iron (repairs ring cracks)

45 watt desoldering iron (removes oops-es from the board while I'm working)

small flat screwdriver (opens dust doors)

#1 Phillips screwdriver

hair dryer (removes labels)

 

 

It is possible to clean the labels up to an extent. I haven't figured out a way to remove Actiplaque (that blotchy stuff), but I believe it can be prevented.

Atari and Sears text and picture labels are tough as nails. You can remove just about any kid of ink or paint from them. They stand up to acetone in small quantities. Atari silver labels are supposedly pretty tough also. It took me an hour to remove one from a Centipede cart one day.

Coleco labels don't like being removed, even with heat.

Any kind of silver label is subject to scuffing and I don't know how to remove it.

 

The first thing I do when I get carts, depending on where they came from, is clean them with the dishwashing liquid and a bit of water. Some labels don't like moisture at all, but in general 2600 carts can take a little (or even a lot like my Sub commander did) of water. If there's price tag gunk on there, I apply a drop of Goo Gone to a rag and wipe the gunk away, the wash the cart. At this time I usually clean contacts also. This removes 90% of the years from the cart.

Next I test the cart. 99% of them work, so I move to the label. If it doesn't, I'll open it and try to "play the board". If that doesn't work, I clean the entire board and heat up all the solder joints, adding a tiny bit of solder to each one. If I get too much, that's where the desoldering tool comes in handy. If I canot fix it, I'll save the shell and the label in some cases so that someone who's got bad looking carts can use them.

 

If the label is peeling up, the glue stick takes care of that. Sometimes a little heat from the blow dryer is needed. If the label is torn and parts are peeling up or separating, once again the glue stick takes care of it and usually leaves no evidence of the tear. This is a good time to set the cart aside and work with a damaged box if you're very confident of your ability.

In most cases if the label is intact and peeling off, it's best just to remove it altogether and re glue it.

 

While the label is off, if there's anything rattling around in there, that's a good time to either re glue, re solder, or remove it. Just keep the super glue away from the label, 'cause it'll go right through and damage it. Once the super glue dries, you don't have to worry about that anymore.

 

when the labels are just un repairable, missing, or when I want a ridiculously rare label variation at a bargain price, I'll make a label using the scans on the main site here. I re size them with the Gimp (photoshop will work as well), then save them to a memory stick and have Kinko's print them out. I've done this with a very few instruction manuals also. Once they are printed, I'll cut them at Kinko's with their paper cutter and bring them home for application with the school glue sticks. Sometimes I have the labels laminated at the print shop. It just depends on what I think the original cart would have.

 

EDIT: Almost forgot...if you're re sticking a label that has peeled off, make sure to strip all the old glue off the cart. I use Goo Gone for this. You can't strip the old glue from the underside of the label in most cases, but removing old glue from the shell gives you a smooth surface to stick the label back onto.

Edited September 26, 2009 by shadow460

[disjaukifa]

I use Elmer's school glue sticks.

 

Here's a list of the repair supplies I use:

Ajax dishwashing liquid

Goo Gone (removes sticky gunk)

Fingernail polish remover (removes Sharpie marks, but can burn plastic)

Elmer's School Glue sticks (secures labels to carts)

Rosin core solder (repairs ring cracks)

dish rags

70/30 isopropyl rubbing alcohol

cotton swabs

Clear packaging tape (resurfaces some labels that are peeling badly)

cyanoacrylate super glue (repairs cart shells)

 

And the tools:

15/30 watt soldering iron (repairs ring cracks)

45 watt desoldering iron (removes oops-es from the board while I'm working)

small flat screwdriver (opens dust doors)

#1 Phillips screwdriver

hair dryer (removes labels)

 

 

It is possible to clean the labels up to an extent. I haven't figured out a way to remove Actiplaque (that blotchy stuff), but I believe it can be prevented.

Atari and Sears text and picture labels are tough as nails. You can remove just about any kid of ink or paint from them. They stand up to acetone in small quantities. Atari silver labels are supposedly pretty tough also. It took me an hour to remove one from a Centipede cart one day.

Coleco labels don't like being removed, even with heat.

Any kind of silver label is subject to scuffing and I don't know how to remove it.

 

The first thing I do when I get carts, depending on where they came from, is clean them with the dishwashing liquid and a bit of water. Some labels don't like moisture at all, but in general 2600 carts can take a little (or even a lot like my Sub commander did) of water. If there's price tag gunk on there, I apply a drop of Goo Gone to a rag and wipe the gunk away, the wash the cart. At this time I usually clean contacts also. This removes 90% of the years from the cart.

Next I test the cart. 99% of them work, so I move to the label. If it doesn't, I'll open it and try to "play the board". If that doesn't work, I clean the entire board and heat up all the solder joints, adding a tiny bit of solder to each one. If I get too much, that's where the desoldering tool comes in handy. If I canot fix it, I'll save the shell and the label in some cases so that someone who's got bad looking carts can use them.

 

If the label is peeling up, the glue stick takes care of that. Sometimes a little heat from the blow dryer is needed. If the label is torn and parts are peeling up or separating, once again the glue stick takes care of it and usually leaves no evidence of the tear. This is a good time to set the cart aside and work with a damaged box if you're very confident of your ability.

In most cases if the label is intact and peeling off, it's best just to remove it altogether and re glue it.

 

While the label is off, if there's anything rattling around in there, that's a good time to either re glue, re solder, or remove it. Just keep the super glue away from the label, 'cause it'll go right through and damage it. Once the super glue dries, you don't have to worry about that anymore.

 

when the labels are just un repairable, missing, or when I want a ridiculously rare label variation at a bargain price, I'll make a label using the scans on the main site here. I re size them with the Gimp (photoshop will work as well), then save them to a memory stick and have Kinko's print them out. I've done this with a very few instruction manuals also. Once they are printed, I'll cut them at Kinko's with their paper cutter and bring them home for application with the school glue sticks. Sometimes I have the labels laminated at the print shop. It just depends on what I think the original cart would have.

 

EDIT: Almost forgot...if you're re sticking a label that has peeled off, make sure to strip all the old glue off the cart. I use Goo Gone for this. You can't strip the old glue from the underside of the label in most cases, but removing old glue from the shell gives you a smooth surface to stick the label back onto.

 

shadow460,

 

Can I say THANK YOU for the great write on how you do it. I am going to be doing that to all my carts tonight and tomorrow. Thank you for taking to the time to write that up. I wonder if we could make that post a sticky as I am sure many of the people in this forum would benefit from this information.

 

Thanks again shadow460

Disjaukifa

[Cebus Capucinis]

Seconded on that thank you! What kind of paper do you use to print out the labels?

[seanhq]

@shadow460:

 

Thanks for the detailed methods you use for cartridge repair. Some I was aware of and some not. You can never stop learning I always say

[disjaukifa]

@shadow460:

 

Thanks for the detailed methods you use for cartridge repair. Some I was aware of and some not. You can never stop learning I always say

 

I have this saying that I don't remember where I first heard it but I do believe in it . . . people grow old when they stop learning, if you want to stay young learn something new every day!!

 

-Disjaukifa

[shadow460]

For the labels I usually just use whatever the printer is loaded with. The one time I had to have different paper was when I printed out the manual for Space Invaders for the 7800. I took a production 7800 manual into Kinko's and got the paper matched as closely as possible. It looks like the odd one out, but it isn't bad.

 

The main thing that changes the label surface is the lamination. If you can at all save the stock label, though, do it. I've never tried to print out those shiny silver labels like Imagic uses. I have one cart that had a grayish Atari label on it, and the replacement label is much darker than the original.

[disjaukifa]

For the labels I usually just use whatever the printer is loaded with. The one time I had to have different paper was when I printed out the manual for Space Invaders for the 7800. I took a production 7800 manual into Kinko's and got the paper matched as closely as possible. It looks like the odd one out, but it isn't bad.

 

The main thing that changes the label surface is the lamination. If you can at all save the stock label, though, do it. I've never tried to print out those shiny silver labels like Imagic uses. I have one cart that had a grayish Atari label on it, and the replacement label is much darker than the original.

 

With your write up I think I can save most of the labels!!! I need to go to the store however and pick up some materials before I can start!!!

 

Thanks again shadow260!!!

 

-Disjaukifa

[shadow460]

What's the chances of having some info added to the 200 FAQ or maybe a sticky thread on restoration? Plenty of folks come through and want to know, so I think it might help.

[disjaukifa]

What's the chances of having some info added to the 200 FAQ or maybe a sticky thread on restoration? Plenty of folks come through and want to know, so I think it might help.

 

I agree, it was one of the first things I searched for when I joined the sites and started looking at getting more cartridges. Great example, I bought two games today at the flea-market, Dig Dug and Yar's Revenge for 2 bucks total. They are disgusting and I wanted to know a good way of trying to restore them and that write up was the best example. I am going to be doing that to all 47 of my cars!!!

 

Thanks again

Disjaukifa

[seanhq]

I am going to be doing that to all 47 of my cars!!!

You have 47 cars to restore? Where do you park them all?

[disjaukifa]

I am going to be doing that to all 47 of my cars!!!

You have 47 cars to restore? Where do you park them all?

 

I just got back into the 2600 like 2 ~ 3 weeks ago, I got back into when I bought 2 Atari 2600 and several games at a yard sale. The were keep in the attic . . . of the garage. And I have bought some at the local flee market and that should tell you what kind of condition they are in as well.

 

-Disjaukifa

[seanhq]

I am going to be doing that to all 47 of my cars!!!

You have 47 cars to restore? Where do you park them all?

 

I just got back into the 2600 like 2 ~ 3 weeks ago, I got back into when I bought 2 Atari 2600 and several games at a yard sale. The were keep in the attic . . . of the garage. And I have bought some at the local flee market and that should tell you what kind of condition they are in as well.

 

-Disjaukifa

LOL. You still didn't catch it, you said 47 cars, not carts... as in vehicles... unless you have a 2600 powered car... now that would be cool

Edited September 27, 2009 by seanhq

[disjaukifa]

I am going to be doing that to all 47 of my cars!!!

You have 47 cars to restore? Where do you park them all?

 

I just got back into the 2600 like 2 ~ 3 weeks ago, I got back into when I bought 2 Atari 2600 and several games at a yard sale. The were keep in the attic . . . of the garage. And I have bought some at the local flee market and that should tell you what kind of condition they are in as well.

 

-Disjaukifa

LOL. You still didn't catch it, you said 47 cars, not carts... as in vehicles... unless you have a 2600 powered car... now that would be cool

 

HAHAHAHHA oops yeah I mean cartridges!!!

 

-Disjaukifa

[disjaukifa]

What's the chances of having some info added to the 200 FAQ or maybe a sticky thread on restoration? Plenty of folks come through and want to know, so I think it might help.

 

Hey Shadow460,

 

I just fixed up my Q*Bert cartridge's label. It really bothered my that about 40% of the label was not attached to the cartridge. Well now its cleaned, the connectors have been really cleaned well and the label looks like it had never lifted off the cartridge.

 

I highly recommend we contact a Mod and get Shadow460's post become a sticky for everyone to see.

 

Thanks

Disjaukifa

[MS-DOS]

The label on my star was cartridge was peeling off, so I just glued it back on. Bam! Restored!

What kind of glue did you use?

 

Plain elmers paper glue.

 

 

Put small amounts on the parts of the cartridge under the label. Press down the label, perhaps putting something heavy on it while it dries. If any seeps out, wipe it away with a cloth. It will of course dry clear so nobody will know!

 

For the labels I usually just use whatever the printer is loaded with. The one time I had to have different paper was when I printed out the manual for Space Invaders for the 7800. I took a production 7800 manual into Kinko's and got the paper matched as closely as possible. It looks like the odd one out, but it isn't bad.

 

The main thing that changes the label surface is the lamination. If you can at all save the stock label, though, do it. I've never tried to print out those shiny silver labels like Imagic uses. I have one cart that had a grayish Atari label on it, and the replacement label is much darker than the original.

 

I'd suggest a nice glossy photopaper for labels.

Edited September 27, 2009 by MS-DOS

[MS-DOS]

EDIT: Whoops, darn double post.

Edited September 27, 2009 by MS-DOS

[macdlsa]

Hi

 

"restoring" cartridges ?

 

Well , here is a link to an italian forum ( hehe , I'm italian ... so just watch the images and maybe "catch" some essential translation ) in wich I explained how I resumed ( or re-exhumed ? ) some of my old cartridges whose didn't seem to run anymore on my VCS , after about 20 - 25 years ...

http://www.retrogaminghistory.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1290