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What, so drill the pin array and anchoring holes into the mainboard, ensure the ground shielding is removed, and fir the socket right side up? Surely solder won't "take" if the holes are unplated. Or are we just gluing the socket in place still?

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What, so drill the pin array and anchoring holes into the mainboard, ensure the ground shielding is removed, and fir the socket right side up? Surely solder won't "take" if the holes are unplated. Or are we just gluing the socket in place still?

 

Yeah if you could mount the pins in the MB so that there was NO electrical connection to them via the board, I would think that gluing them that way would be much sturdier as long as you still had access to the pins to wire them.

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exacly

 

plus you could solder ground pins (those 2 on the front, not signal ground) regardlessly of holes being plated or not - it would be "one sided board" ;)

this would give some additional sturdity ;)

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I understand - more or less what I imagined you meant. Solder wires to pins poking through holes first, then glue whole thing into place, and finally solder two ground pins at the back.

Edited by flashjazzcat

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Hi,

 

I´ld like to fit my VBXE into a XEGS. Unfortunately the "vbxe´s installation guide" doesn´t show how to put the adapter & the board in the computer the right way,

 

Is this way correct?

 

 

I would install the adapter this way:

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

 

...and put the VBXE2 on it this way:

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

I´d take a look on the different pictures of your computers in this threat; on most pics the vbxe is installed that you can read the writing on the pcb, but in some pics the pcb is bottom up?!?

 

Thanks for your help, Sleeπ

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yes it does

adapter has pin #1 marked as normal chip has - it has a notch on one edge - just like antic does

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Hello orpheuswaking

 

You sure that third thing is a thumb? :D

 

sincerely

 

Mathy

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So, my installation is finished! :-)

 

Here´s a actual picture of the board:

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

As connection "to the world" I used a 13pin ST-monitor-jack. It combines all signals for RGB, FBas and stereo sound. There are still some pins left, e.g. for S-Video.

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

The XEGS offers so much space that the upper shield still remains in the housing. Pretentively I sticked a plastic foild to prevent any kind of contact to the vbxe´s connectors.

 

item.JPG?rot=1

Sleeπ

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So, my installation is finished! :-)

 

Here´s a actual picture of the board:

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

As connection "to the world" I used a 13pin ST-monitor-jack. It combines all signals for RGB, FBas and stereo sound. There are still some pins left, e.g. for S-Video.

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

item.JPG?rot=1

 

The XEGS offers so much space that the upper shield still remains in the housing. Pretentively I sticked a plastic foild to prevent any kind of contact to the vbxe´s connectors.

 

item.JPG?rot=1

Sleeπ

 

That is a really nice install, very neat... Wish mine looked that good when I was done!

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I'm about to install my VBXE2 board in my 800XL. I notice that the cap at C24 is a bit tall, and the board hits it. What have other people done with this?

 

PS. I came into some ST gear, including a parts ST and some SC1224 monitors (3), so I decided to desolder the ST monitor port and use the SC1224 for this. It'll be nice to have an Atari monitor with my Atari computer for the first time ever.

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The one that interferes with the top left-hand of the board?

 

I think some machines you get lucky and the legs are long enough that you can bend it near flat.

 

Not mine - I just bought another one and installed such that I could bend it over almost flat.

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I had a similar issue installing stereo boards in XLs. I do what Rybags suggested, get another cap of the same value and replace it, laying the new cap flat on the board.

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Ok, after a couple of days of soldering, I've finally got my VBXE2 board installed in my main 800XL (my original machine from 1984-85). The longest part was to desolder the old ANTIC socket, and solder in the precision socket in its place. The rest of it was pretty easy. I did go with the DIN13 plug from the ST. A little trial and error, and I figured out that I needed to connect CSYNC to both the Horizontal and Vertical Sync pins on the monitor port. I also connected Audio from where it went into the (now gone) RF Modulator (no point in connecting it to the Stereo board, since the RGB monitor I am using is an Atari SC1224 that is only mono.) I still need to fasten the monitor port down to the board somehow though. Hot glue did not work... maybe some epoxy?

 

The board is starting to look pretty messy now, and there's quite a few daughterboards socketed in over the years-I guess something can still go into the 6502 socket! :)

 

- Vintage, circa late 80s 256k RAM upgrade (Rambo/ClausB clone)-I just acquired another 800XL in the area that has the exact same upgrade by the same guy that was doing them for all the local user's group members.

- Stereo Pokey Board (stereo on/off switch is the old channel selector)

- Internal MyIDE

- VBXE2

post-2472-129481563646_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shawn Jefferson

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Okay, I'm trying to desolder an ST Monitor jack from a dead ST. I've clean out the pins pretty well, with a combination of wick and a solder sucker, but what about that strip that goes around the outside of the board, it seems to pins are connected into that as well. I'm assuming it's a ground, but I know next to nothing about these things...

 

What is the easiest way to get this sucker off the board? (I'm not doing my own VBXE install, it's clearly too advanced for my humble skills and though I'm trying to learn, I don't want to mess that up).

 

Thanks...

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I still need to fasten the monitor port down to the board somehow though. Hot glue did not work... maybe some epoxy?

 

I used some M3-plastic threaded bolts to fix the socket. You can see it on the third photo at post #162. Maybe you can use this way, too. At least one threaded bolt behind the jack. But take care if there are any conducting paths! If there are only ground or nothing at both sides you can drill through.

 

Sleeπ

Edited by Sleepy

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i had boards i've worked on stripped of coppen that would be under the socket, drilled and then everything glued with epoxy

socket sits firmly on the board, although its far more complicated than simply using hot glue

btw - if you have only hot glue gun for its application it won't probably stay put on board - too low temperature on this one

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