reflowing solder joints

[frank_c]

seems like most of the solutions to CV problems are "reflow the solder joints." anyone try to do this with a heat gun instead of one by one with a soldering iron? i did the YLOD repair on a PS3 and i'm wondering if it would work on a CV.

[+save2600]

Heat gun process works better with SMD chips and such. The Colecovision, etc. uses TTH (through the hole) soldering techniques and a soldering iron one by one is the way I've done it for 30 years. There are irons tips shaped like hammerhead sharks (long rectangular) tips that do a nice job with the varying pins all at once, but I've never used one. And honestly, I'd be more afraid heating up rows of pins at a time on this old stuff. For chips, set your iron to 15 watts and reflow one at a time. For components, 30 watts works out real well. You can purchase a dual setting iron for $10-$15 from Rat Shack.

Edited January 10, 2010 by save2600

[Jess Ragan]

We had a conversation about flowing solder on a ColecoVision board before. I said this earlier and I'll do it again for emphasis... flowing solder on the CV board is a stone cold bitch because the solder is practically fossilized onto the board. I don't know if the motherboard is pretreated with a coat of silicone or what, but you're going to find it extremely hard to get that solder a movin'.

 

Generally speaking, the hardware is a headache of Xbox 360 proportions. The system is hard to open, the power switch will give you constant problems, and if you accidentally pop off a component (like, say, the extremely vulnerable controller ports), you can pretty much kiss the whole thing goodbye. I tried installing a new controller port in my CV but discovered while trying to unlock Pac-Man Plus on Opcode's excellent Pac-Man Collection that it didn't work properly. Feh! It's definitely not a console that was designed for the long haul.

[tz101]

We had a conversation about flowing solder on a ColecoVision board before. I said this earlier and I'll do it again for emphasis... flowing solder on the CV board is a stone cold bitch because the solder is practically fossilized onto the board. I don't know if the motherboard is pretreated with a coat of silicone or what, but you're going to find it extremely hard to get that solder a movin'.

 

Generally speaking, the hardware is a headache of Xbox 360 proportions. The system is hard to open, the power switch will give you constant problems, and if you accidentally pop off a component (like, say, the extremely vulnerable controller ports), you can pretty much kiss the whole thing goodbye. I tried installing a new controller port in my CV but discovered while trying to unlock Pac-Man Plus on Opcode's excellent Pac-Man Collection that it didn't work properly. Feh! It's definitely not a console that was designed for the long haul.

 

Even if old solder is difficult to reflow, simply apply new solder over the top of the protruding pins on the back side of the PCB. It all accomplishes the same thing.

[+save2600]

Even if old solder is difficult to reflow, simply apply new solder over the top of the protruding pins on the back side of the PCB. It all accomplishes the same thing.

 

Right on. It's the flux or resin that you're probably seeing Jess. Some manufacturers went ape spit with that shit. I'm awaiting a Colecovision too. Can't wait to see what that puppies insides look like

Edited January 10, 2010 by save2600

[goldvrx]

I recently purchased a Weller WESD51 soldering station, works really well. Since this unit is set by temp, what would be a good temp setting for chips and components when working on this older stuff?

George

[+save2600]

I recently purchased a Weller WESD51 soldering station, works really well. Since this unit is set by temp, what would be a good temp setting for chips and components when working on this older stuff?

George

 

Here's a real great guide for this sort of thing. Nice purchase btw! That's on my list as well as one of those large clamp-able magnifier/lamp doo-jobbers. lol

 

http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm

Edited January 11, 2010 by save2600

[Keatah]

We had a conversation about flowing solder on a ColecoVision board before. I said this earlier and I'll do it again for emphasis... flowing solder on the CV board is a stone cold bitch because the solder is practically fossilized onto the board. I don't know if the motherboard is pretreated with a coat of silicone or what, but you're going to find it extremely hard to get that solder a movin'.

 

Conformal coating..

[+save2600]

Conformal coating..

 

I've normally only seen that done to appliances and auto computers. This was also done on Colecovisions?

[+save2600]

On the subject of 'conformal coating' and having just restored a Colecovision yesterday, I did not see any signs of that protectant crap on either side of the board (whew!), but did see some sloppy resin good near the on/off switch which is typical. Forgot how tiny a CV CPU board is and how light the system is overall. lol

[Keatah]

On the subject of 'conformal coating' and having just restored a Colecovision yesterday, I did not see any signs of that protectant crap on either side of the board (whew!), but did see some sloppy resin good near the on/off switch which is typical. Forgot how tiny a CV CPU board is and how light the system is overall. lol

 

My cv was an earlier model, and it definitely had a thin layer of the stuff. Nowhere near as thick as what you might see in an automotive ecm or whatnot.