Ethaniel Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 So i got this cartridge from eBay the other day listed as untested but i never thought it wouldn't work... (poor me) i have opened the shell to extract the PCB for further cleaning. the first problem is that the cartridge doesn't insert on protected systems (the dust thingy) as the PCB seemed a bit longer than usual so i scraped it a little. it only inserts on atari's without the dust thing. the second prob is that the screen doesn't show anything. no matter where the switch is (3 positions). i mean i get picture but it's all fucked up trippy colors. so my question is this. anyone ever had similar problem that finally was solved? it's not a big deal but i really like multi's and i don't have any other 160 in 1. that's all... thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 nothing? Noone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevEng Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 (edited) pray its not bitrot clean the contacts clean the switch inspect for mechanical damage or cold joints with a multimeter, check the switch, the capacitor (should read open), and other components. Good luck! Edited April 20, 2010 by RevEng Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 RIP probably bitrot (never heard of that before today) last time i get something untested... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevEng Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 My condolences. Sad, but it can happen to old proms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 My condolences. Sad, but it can happen to old proms. so you mean that eventually all games will get that? crap...maybe i should invest on hard drives for digital preservation instead of oooooold game cartridges... BTW: last time i get something untested... i should contact the seller before opening the cartridge... he said he will replace it. now i told him that i opened it. haven't got a new answer yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+save2600 Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 (edited) The tantalum cap could be bad (of that vintage, very likely). Check the diode next, and I see a little jumper section toward the edge connector end. Something could be kittywampus there. Seems to be a resistor missing down that way also. I'd be happy to give this board a good going over if no one else wants to attempt a repair (oh shoot, I just caught that you're in Greece). In this case, Greece is NOT the word. lol I'd say the chances of it actually have "bit rot" are extremely low and that's putting it diplomatically. Waaaaaay more probable that one of the other discrete components have failed. Welcome to eBay. Where "untested" translates to 'known to be NOT working, but I'm going to sell it anyway' Edited April 21, 2010 by save2600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 (edited) i replaced the capacitor and checked the diode. still nothing... too much trouble should i replace every thing on it? i have trouble removing the switch :x my solder pump sux ass EDIT: @save2600 would a back view of the board help you help me? Edited April 21, 2010 by Ethaniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevEng Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 so you mean that eventually all games will get that? No. Games that were manufactured in significant quantity used mask roms. They'll probably outlast the cockroaches. Small quantity runs - like homebrew, pirate carts, and prototypes - would use proms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlepaddle Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 i replaced the capacitor and checked the diode. still nothing... too much trouble should i replace every thing on it? i have trouble removing the switch :x my solder pump sux ass EDIT: @save2600 would a back view of the board help you help me? Yeah, best bet is to replace the PC board, all the chips, the cap, and the case. Reusing the existing label should be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 (edited) lol i meant to replace the resistors and diode... I can see the resistor stripes but what diode is that one? Are there many types of diodes or all game cartridges use the same one? @save2600: I don't think anyone would remove a resistor from the bottom. The cell was unopened. Edited April 22, 2010 by Ethaniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omegamatrix Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 It looks like a 1N4148 small signal diode. They switch very fast, and are used in a lot of electronics. Looking at the silkscreen it appears to have been put in the right way, at least. It's a little bit of a moot point now, but before you started solder sucking and replacing components... well, you should have just used a multimeter to test conductance. 1). Starting with the switch, make sure that it is working in all positions. When a switch is open, your ohmmeter will approach infinity (most say OL for overload). When the switch is in a closed position it approaches zero. You'll have a very small resistance reading. 2). With the switch confirmed working, test the +/- voltages tracks through the pin connector of the cartridge port to the IC chips with the Ohmmeter. This may require that you make a wiring diagram before hand. 3). Test the other components, and here is where you have to be careful. Testing a resistor when it's stuck in the board won't give you it's denoted resistance if it's in parallel. This is because all the current isn't going directly through it. Visually (in this case), the resistors don't look too bad. The missing one at the bottom seems like it was meant for a different configuration. It looks like a jumper is in the place normally meant for a cap with the other configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+save2600 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 (edited) EDIT: @save2600 would a back view of the board help you help me? Not unless there's an obvious trace that's been all scratched to hell. Omegamatrix has a lot of good thoughts going, so give his response a good read or three. And yeah, the shotgun approach to replacing components is not a good idea, especially if you value your time. lol While the precise resistance can't always be measured with a resistor in circuit, the diode usually can. Have you successfully tested that with your DMM? You should see an open reading one way and a zero'd out reading the other (reverse your leads on each of the ends). Bad resistors will normally look burnt and all those look good, so I wouldn't spend to much time worrying about them. Using your DMM, just test for some kind of resistance and I'm sure they're still in tolerance. Did you replace the electrolytic cap too? Hmm, from there I guess I'd make sure the switch works and that power is going to all the I.C.'s. Besides Vcc going to the chips, if you don't have a digital strobe to test for 'hi or low' on the other pins and don't mind the shotgun approach to repairs, you could always replace that RCA chip and see what happens: http://parts.digikey...p-cd4024be.html Edited April 22, 2010 by save2600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 well thank you both. I will try everything tomorrow. I'm on a trip now and i'm writing from my mobile. I'm not THAT good with electronics. I will check youtube tutorials Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercat Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 So i got this cartridge from eBay the other day listed as untested but i never thought it wouldn't work... (poor me)i have opened the shell to extract the PCB for further cleaning. What sort of cart is that? Curious that it has both a 28-pin and 32-pin DIP on it. I don't know that I've ever seen a 32-pin DIP in anything of that vintage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omegamatrix Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 I don't know that I've ever seen a 32-pin DIP in anything of that vintage. I have. Here's a picture of the inside of my 208 in 1 cart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethaniel Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 I don't know that I've ever seen a 32-pin DIP in anything of that vintage. I have. Here's a picture of the inside of my 208 in 1 cart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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