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Is there a way to make paddles less sensitive?


tremoloman2006

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Heh, looks like me & Fox-1 were workin' in parallel today! :)

 

mmmkay, this is my final stab at the "Simple Solution."

          (BIAS)       (PADDLE). . . (PADDLE)
           500K          500K          500K         ORIG.
         --/\/\/--+    --/\/\/--+    --/\/\/------< PADDLE
             ^    |        ^    |        ^          CONN.
             |    |        |    |        | 
             o    |        o . .|. . . . o . .
             |    |        |    |        |    .
ORIG.        |    |        |    |        |     .
PADDLE >------+    +--------+    +--------+      2-GANG
CONN.        |    |        |    |
             |    |        |    |
        o    o    o        o    o    o
             ======             ======
              .                   .
             .       DPDT        .
            . . . . . . . . . . .
              WIDE <----> NORMAL

Whichever the setting of the sensitivity switch, there are always two 500K pots in series.

 

  • In "Normal" mode, the trim pot is shorted and the two 500K ganged pots are in series, giving a 1-Megohm paddle which acts just like the original.
  • In "Wide" (less sensitive) mode, one paddle pot is shorted out and the trim pot is now in play, so you have the 500K trim pot in series with one 500K paddle pot. To calibrate it so the game's "active zone" is in the center of the paddle's range, set the paddle to middle-range and adjust the trim pot so that the on-screen character is centered.

Yeah, it's simple, and you can't adjust the paddle to full-travel for every game. But simpler is cheaper, simpler is easier to mod-up, and if you're used to not having full travel in Atari games, you shouldn't be too bent about not having it now. You've got twice the knob travel now, plus the original option, both in one paddle. What more do you want?! :D

 

BTW, going by JingleJoe's range results, a 500K paddle would give Warlords damn near 70% range-of-travel. Not bad for a simple solution.

 

Still, It would be interesting to see if a solution is possible that would give infinitely-adjustable paddle range so you could adjust for full-travel (or near it) for any game.

 

Fox-1, have you read the whole thread? the 2-Gang, 1-M pots solution has already been discussed. It would work as long as you didn't put in my trim pot. Unfortunately, the trim or "bias" pot is pretty much required because the "active zone" of some games is almost never in the center of the 1-Meg range. If you put a trim pot in series with your parallel 1-M pots, you end up with a non-linear paddle. Thus the 2-Gang 500K pots in series.

 

The above solution has one advantage regarding previous discussions: If you're putting in new pots anyway, you also have the option of adding a larger knob if you want even more "sensitivity" in both switch settings.

 

Stereo volume control pots are intentionally made non-linear (known as logarithmic or "audio taper"). Using them would make gameplay interesting, to say the least.

Are you saying you can't get linear-taper 2-Gang pots? That seems odd, it would seem like they would be useful for something, like maybe high-sensitivity game paddles! :D

 

-tet

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Stereo volume control pots are intentionally made non-linear (known as logarithmic or "audio taper"). Using them would make gameplay interesting, to say the least.

I think Mr Fox 1's design is just what we need though! One could probably find a dual-gang linear potentiometer if logarithmic makes things too "interesting" ;) However I thought the original paddle controls were non-linear? Correct me if I'm wrong.

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I think Mr Fox 1's design is just what we need though! ...

Well, almost. Yes, either of Fox-1's designs offer switchable Normal/Less-Sensitive modes, but the less-sensitive modes of both designs leave you with only half a paddle. The Normal mode would work fine, and in Less-Sensitive mode you'd get a 500K paddle which gives you twice the knob travel for a given game response. But if any game's "active zone" - the resistive area of the paddle which covers the on-screen character's entire movement range - extends above 500K, you'll be stuck with an on-screen character that can't cover its whole on-screen range. You'll "run out of paddle" before the character reaches the edge.

 

My original solution was to have a single 500K paddle pot in series with a 500K bias or "trim" pot. This gives you a paddle with less sensitivity, plus the ability to cover the entire 1-Megohm range of the original paddle. In other words, your new paddle would be a 500K "window" in a 1M range. If a game's "active zone" stretched above 500K, you can use the trim pot to dial-in the less-sensitive 500K paddle to the game's "active zone." Thus you are never in danger of "running out of pot" in a game, unless...

 

The only situation where that setup would cause problems is if a game's "active zone" comprised a range greater than 500K. IMHO, this isn't very likely, since checking the pot on an Atari 2600 takes a lot of CPU time. This is why a lot of games don't use the original paddle's entire range (and why a 500K pot would cover the vast majority of games). So, Fox-1 (and previous posters in this thread) drew a design with a switch so you can switch to "normal" mode, where the paddle acts just like the original 1M pot in case the less-sensitive 500K pot isn't sufficient to cover the player's entire range.

 

That's why I asked if Fox-1 had read the whole thread, because both of his designs had already been discussed: How do you switch between Normal and Less-Sensitive modes, adjust the less-sensitive mode's active window and have both a 500K and a 1M pot on the same knob? Answer: Dual-Gang pots; either 1Megs in parallel or 500Ks in series.

 

Unfortunately, as already discussed, two parallel 1M pots in series with a 500K trim pot (or just a resistor, for that matter) creates a non-linear pot, even if all the individual pots are linear.

 

But, Dual-Gang 500K pots in series will work with a trim resistor or trim pot, as long as everything is in series at all times. Thus my last simple solution, posted above. I took the dual-gang 500K-series pots idea and added a switch and a trim pot to have both Normal and Less-Sensitive modes.

 

In Normal Mode, the trim pot is shorted so all that's in the circuit is the two 500K paddle pots in series, which effectively become one full-range 1M pot, just like the original paddle.

 

In Less-Sensitive mode, one of the paddle pots is shorted out of the circuit, while the in-series trim pot comes into play so you can adjust your less-sensitive paddle's "window" within the original 1M range.

 

Simple circuit. Few parts. No muss, no fuss. Best of both worlds.

 

Of course, a more sophisticated circuit which would be adjustable so that any game can use the entire movable range of the paddle knob would be completely excellent. But until then I believe my design is about as good as you'll get. :)

 

-tet

 

[edit] Oops, I may be wrong about the two parallel pots in series with a trim pot being non-linear. I think that was only the case with a 1M single pot in parallel with a resistor to decrease sensitivity, with all that in series with a trim resistor/trim pot. Someone check me. A.J.? BigO? It's 4:30 AM, I've had a cold one, and It's way past my bedtime, even for the Weekend! Well, even if I was wrong, my solution is still a good one, because it's both simple and flexible. ;) [/edit]

Edited by tetrode kink
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[edit] Oops, I may be wrong about the two parallel pots in series with a trim pot being non-linear. I think that was only the case with a 1M single pot in parallel with a resistor to decrease sensitivity, with all that in series with a trim resistor/trim pot. Someone check me. A.J.? BigO? It's 4:30 AM, I've had a cold one, and It's way past my bedtime, even for the Weekend! Well, even if I was wrong, my solution is still a good one, because it's both simple and flexible. ;) [/edit]

If the trim resistor/pot is not in parallel with the main pot, you will not encounter the non-linearity problem.

 

I concur that a two gang pot with a switch (1M parallel or 500K series) and a trim of some sort will work to give two different levels of sensitivity and the variable window that would be necessary to handle most games in low-sensitivity mode. Of the two-level sensitivity solutions that's been discussed here, this one is the one I'd build. If you have two gang pots, build this one.

 

I only like my theoretical capacitor-tweaked model because it has the potential for multiple levels of sensitivity using a rotary switch (or group of spst toggle switches) to add capacitance to the circuit. (I have no clue as to whether more than one alternate level of sensitivity would ever be used.) This design, too, would need to have a trim pot to be a practical solution.

Edited by BigO
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Let's start with this:

 

http://uk.farnell.com/bourns/3310h-001-105l/potentiometer-1m/dp/9353941

 

Just an example. These are less common then logarithmic but not a rarity.

 

Yes, either of Fox-1's designs offer switchable Normal/Less-Sensitive modes, but the less-sensitive modes of both designs leave you with only half a paddle.

 

It was only a concept. One can add adjustable trimmers if required, about the same way as already posted by others.

 

That's why I asked if Fox-1 had read the whole thread, because both of his designs had already been discussed

 

I thought I read the whole thread but didn't spot it. Was even wondering why no one else came up with it.

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Wow! I appreciate everybody's input in this question!

 

I was going to use two 500K pots I bought for my electric guitars but now I'm weary I may not have the correct type of pots to use. I know very little about electronic circuitry so I won't even try to BS that I do.

 

Would someone post a link to a type that should work? I'll buy a few, install 'em, and then post my results unless someone beats me to it.

 

It would be nice to finally enjoy playing paddle games on a regular basis. I avoid these titles since every set of paddles I own either shakes too much or is just too sensitive.

 

Thanks a million everyone!

 

-Trem

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Of the methods described so far, only those with a fixed or trim resistance in parallel with the main variable resistance create undesirable non-linearity. Linear ganged variable resistors in parallel or series will maintain their linearity. Fixed or trim resistance in series with linear variable resistance will remain linear.

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I was going to use two 500K pots I bought for my electric guitars but now I'm weary I may not have the correct type of pots to use.

Most audio-related pots are logarithmic. Chances are there is a "LOG" or "LIN" reference on the pot itself.

 

 

Would someone post a link to a type that should work?

 

Did that in my last post but don't know if it'd physically fit in a paddle. It's more then 15 years ago I saw the inside of a paddle :-)

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  • 11 years later...
55 minutes ago, Mockduck said:

Yeah, cool resurrection. I wonder how it would feel if you just added a much larger diameter knob on the paddle.

Sure, though I am interested in the trim pot, and being able to adjust the paddle sensitivity depending on the game... When I get a chance, I'll do some experimenting and try some of the ideas in this thread! 

 

Similarly, a while back I inquired about adapting an optical USB mouse to be used as a paddle controller (via Arduino or Pi) and someone suggested using PWM (pulse wave modulation) to control resistance. Another project on the backburner! 

Edited by madatariscientistjr
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Since this thread is resurrected: I love the degree of technical ingenuity being brought to bear on this.

 

If, like me, you don't know the first thing about potentiometers or resistors, you can solve this problem in software. All you need is (a) a reasonably fast machine and (b) a spare 2600-daptor. Either Stella or lr-stella (as seen in Lakka and RetroPie) allow adjustments to the paddle sensitivity and dead zone, and at least lr-stella allows you to change both these settings on a per-game basis. You can even "trim" the paddles by adjusting the dead zone.

 

I like using a reflashed chromebox for this purpose, since fast paddle-based games (e.g. Kaboom!) really bring out the lag in underpowered systems like the Retron 77, the Flashbacks, and even the pi 4. Even in the midst of this chip shortage you can get one for like $50.

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1 hour ago, Brainworm said:

Since this thread is resurrected: I love the degree of technical ingenuity being brought to bear on this.

 

If, like me, you don't know the first thing about potentiometers or resistors, you can solve this problem in software. All you need is (a) a reasonably fast machine and (b) a spare 2600-daptor. Either Stella or lr-stella (as seen in Lakka and RetroPie) allow adjustments to the paddle sensitivity and dead zone, and at least lr-stella allows you to change both these settings on a per-game basis. You can even "trim" the paddles by adjusting the dead zone.

 

I like using a reflashed chromebox for this purpose, since fast paddle-based games (e.g. Kaboom!) really bring out the lag in underpowered systems like the Retron 77, the Flashbacks, and even the pi 4. Even in the midst of this chip shortage you can get one for like $50.

 

Thanks for your reply! Tweaking on the software side is definitely a smart approach. I'm not familiar with lr-stella, or any of the raspberry pi or chromebox stuff, but always curious, so any links welcome!

 

My Atari activities happen on my original VCS and lately the Flashback 9 (the one with the SD reader) so I'm mainly tweaking the physical controllers for those. I played with linear slide potentiometers which have potential (pun intended) and was even looking at reading an optical mouse with Arduino which would convert it to Atari paddle controller by controlling the resistance with PWM, but that's a little involved, so for me that's on the backburner.

 

My old Windows XP machine runs Stella, and the optical mouse works fine for one player paddle games. You can easily adapt it to a "spinner" by attaching a paddle knob to an "axle" with the mouse up against that, which detects the movement perfectly. I found a wooden dowel inside of a short section of pool noodle works best! Or instead of a paddle knob, you can use a steering wheel, for controlling driving games like Sprint, Indy 500, Night Driver, Pole Position, etc. But for multi player games, I haven't found a way to connect multiple mice. (If someone could make a software app that would read multiple mice as separate devices and emulate analog game controllers internally, that would be a software solution for inexpensive multiple spinners on a computer.)

 

For Windows 10, I have the iCode 4-port adapter, and it works great. (Alas it doesn't work for older Windows versions.)

 

I use the iCode for joysticks for creating my own PC games in QB64, and it works great for joysticks, but I ran into issues getting it to read paddles - it reads them but the values are "jittery". Still a WIP.

 

I did do some research looking for ways to connect multiple optical mice to a PC that can be read as separate paddle / trackball controllers. It has been done before (RawInput API in Windows, and I saw it also was done on Mac / Linux) but it's a little beyond me technically (at the C/C++ level). Still, if I could get Windows to read multiple optical USB mice as separate devices, it would open up a world of fun for DIY Pong games! LoL

 

Edited by madscijr
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1 hour ago, madscijr said:

 

Thanks for your reply! Tweaking on the software side is definitely a smart approach. I'm not familiar with lr-stella, or any of the raspberry pi or chromebox stuff, but always curious, so any links welcome!

 

The fellow who makes the iCode adapters has a couple instructional videos (on jitter reduction and adjusting range of motion and on basic configuration) that focus on lr-stella (the LibRetro Stella core that's used to provide Atari 2600 emulation in RetroArch).

 

Basically, RetroArch is a wrapper for all kinds of emulators ("cores") that allows you to set up a global configuration for e.g. displays and controllers. That way, you can emulate a 2600, 5200, 7800, NES, SNES, C64, &c. games without having to set up specific configuration files for each one.

 

And there are a whole bunch of software products that bundle RetroArch with a handy frontend, all on top of a GNU/Linux software stack, to create an OS dedicated to retrogaming. Which one you use mostly depends on which hardware you want to target. RetroPie is of course for Raspberry Pi boards, and derivatives like RecalBox and Batocera use a very similar stack of software to target (mainly) x86. Lakka is something like the official distribution for RetroArch and runs on everything from PCs to single board computers to portables like the Nintendo Switch or RG351.

 

So you could build a dedicated 2600 emulation machine with pretty much anything you have laying around -- an old PC, a Raspberry Pi. Lakka even runs on some weirdo set top boxes.

 

Normally, if you were going to build a custom emulation machine from scratch, most people would recommend going with a Raspberry Pi. Once upon a time they were like $25 and powerful enough to run pretty much any game that came out before maybe the year 2000. Now they're hard to find and stupid expensive, so the deal of the year is an old Chromebox (like one of these). They're just a low-power fanless PC with custom firmware/BIOS, which you can reflash with Coreboot/Openboot in order to run basically any version of linux that tickles your tulip -- including Lakka, RecalBox, or Batocera. That's a hard deal to beat for $40.

 

I have Lakka on mine. The 16GB internal storage is basically enough to run every Atari console game and arcade classic. You can either use an iCode or 2600-daptor to connect your paddles to it, or splurge on a VCS Classic Controller to go totally wireless for both your joystick and (one player) paddle games. And  -- of course -- you can configure your paddle range and everything else per the video from the iCode fellow.

 

For me, this has been a better experience than the Retron 77 or any of the Flashback consoles because the Chromebox (a) has bluetooth, so you can go wireless with Joystick AND paddles, and (b) is powerful enough to use all kinds of tweaks (hard GPU sync, run ahead) to reduce latency -- something you really notice in fast games like Dragonfire or Kaboom!. It's still not as good as original hardware, but is easily as good as Stella on PC.

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20 minutes ago, Brainworm said:

The fellow who makes the iCode adapters has a couple instructional videos (on jitter reduction and adjusting range of motion and on basic configuration) that focus on lr-stella (the LibRetro Stella core that's used to provide Atari 2600 emulation in RetroArch).

 

Basically, RetroArch is a wrapper for all kinds of emulators ("cores") that allows you to set up a global configuration for e.g. displays and controllers. That way, you can emulate a 2600, 5200, 7800, NES, SNES, C64, &c. games without having to set up specific configuration files for each one.

 

And there are a whole bunch of software products that bundle RetroArch with a handy frontend, all on top of a GNU/Linux software stack, to create an OS dedicated to retrogaming. Which one you use mostly depends on which hardware you want to target. RetroPie is of course for Raspberry Pi boards, and derivatives like RecalBox and Batocera use a very similar stack of software to target (mainly) x86. Lakka is something like the official distribution for RetroArch and runs on everything from PCs to single board computers to portables like the Nintendo Switch or RG351.

 

So you could build a dedicated 2600 emulation machine with pretty much anything you have laying around -- an old PC, a Raspberry Pi. Lakka even runs on some weirdo set top boxes.

 

Normally, if you were going to build a custom emulation machine from scratch, most people would recommend going with a Raspberry Pi. Once upon a time they were like $25 and powerful enough to run pretty much any game that came out before maybe the year 2000. Now they're hard to find and stupid expensive, so the deal of the year is an old Chromebox (like one of these). They're just a low-power fanless PC with custom firmware/BIOS, which you can reflash with Coreboot/Openboot in order to run basically any version of linux that tickles your tulip -- including Lakka, RecalBox, or Batocera. That's a hard deal to beat for $40.

 

I have Lakka on mine. The 16GB internal storage is basically enough to run every Atari console game and arcade classic. You can either use an iCode or 2600-daptor to connect your paddles to it, or splurge on a VCS Classic Controller to go totally wireless for both your joystick and (one player) paddle games. And  -- of course -- you can configure your paddle range and everything else per the video from the iCode fellow.

 

For me, this has been a better experience than the Retron 77 or any of the Flashback consoles because the Chromebox (a) has bluetooth, so you can go wireless with Joystick AND paddles, and (b) is powerful enough to use all kinds of tweaks (hard GPU sync, run ahead) to reduce latency -- something you really notice in fast games like Dragonfire or Kaboom!. It's still not as good as original hardware, but is easily as good as Stella on PC.

Very cool - thanks for explaining all that and for those iCode videos, I will check them out. 

 

The thing I find daunting about the RetroPie / RetroArch / etc. stuff (and others may as well) is, I am NOT familiar with Linux, Raspberry Pi, and the "sys admin" side of things in general. So I would benefit from a handheld step-by-step "dummies" guide for setting up one of these things with concrete examples, e.g. here's how to set up an Atari 800: buy this model Raspberry Pi (links), buy these peripherals (links), plug a into b etc.,  download & install the OS (links), download & install the software & ROMs (links), configure the games and controllers, etc.

I just don't have time or free cycles to dive too deep into such unfamiliar territory (lately what time I do have I spend programming games). But if there are quick & easy instructions to get something up & running, I might give it a try sometime! 

 

Anyway, thanks again, I will file away this info for future use and check out those iCode vids. 

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I think people have been looking at the problem from the wrong angle, that being purely resistively, not electrically.

Yes, if you halve the total resistance of the pot you will have to turn it twice as far for the same change in resistance, however half the resistance means double the current charging the capacitor faster so at best they are likely to cancel each other out resulting in no significant change and at worse it will make the paddles more sensitive, not less.

 

Placing Pots in series with is not a good solution generally, and in this case you are say halving the resistance of the initial pot only to then increase it again with the second pot which would seem rather counter productive.

 

Because you are dealing with a current charging a capacitor the problem is you need to retain the same current range for say twice the angular (resistance) change to maintain the expected CR time constant, and as current is proportion to resistance if you halve the resistance you will need to also double the capacitance to keep the overall CR charge time roughly correct.

So I think I could be done with a dual gang (stereo) linear 1M potentiometer, a double pole single throw (DPST) switch and an 68nF capacitor. Use one pole of the switch to connect/disconnect the Wipers of the two pots and the other pole to connect the capacitor between GND and the wiper of the pots, placing it in parallel with the one inside the 2600 and doubling the value (switch use is assuming you want to be able to switch between standard and reduced sensitivity). 

However, results may vary due to the tolerances in values of the pots (+/-5%) and particularly the caps which are typically +/- 20% 

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3 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

I think people have been looking at the problem from the wrong angle, that being purely resistively, not electrically.

Yes, if you halve the total resistance of the pot you will have to turn it twice as far for the same change in resistance, however half the resistance means double the current charging the capacitor faster so at best they are likely to cancel each other out resulting in no significant change and at worse it will make the paddles more sensitive, not less.

 

Placing Pots in series with is not a good solution generally, and in this case you are say halving the resistance of the initial pot only to then increase it again with the second pot which would seem rather counter productive.

 

Because you are dealing with a current charging a capacitor the problem is you need to retain the same current range for say twice the angular (resistance) change to maintain the expected CR time constant, and as current is proportion to resistance if you halve the resistance you will need to also double the capacitance to keep the overall CR charge time roughly correct.

So I think I could be done with a dual gang (stereo) linear 1M potentiometer, a double pole single throw (DPST) switch and an 68nF capacitor. Use one pole of the switch to connect/disconnect the Wipers of the two pots and the other pole to connect the capacitor between GND and the wiper of the pots, placing it in parallel with the one inside the 2600 and doubling the value (switch use is assuming you want to be able to switch between standard and reduced sensitivity). 

However, results may vary due to the tolerances in values of the pots (+/-5%) and particularly the caps which are typically +/- 20% 

Very interesting take, thanks for sharing that. 

 

So the stereo / dual gang pot / DPDT switch is to switch between the normal pot and one with the capacitor? Could this be done with a normal (mono) pot and a SPST switch? 

 

Also, if you get a free couple minutes and could sketch out a quick wiring diagram, that might help those of us not too familiar with electronics. 
 

Thanks again...

Edited by madscijr
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The schematic is shown below.

245179391_Switchablesensitivitypaddles.PNG.200113fc0e710ff618b555231927a357.PNG

In answer to your question, yes you could use the existing single pot (RV1-B) and a fixed 1M ohm resistor in place of RV1-A, electrically there would not be any difference but if it will fit in the case you may find the connection easier with the stereo pot, plus if one wiper subsequently becomes jittery you could try the other. However, you cannot get away with a SPST switch as you need to make two separate connections, one to change the resistance and one to change the capacitance.

 

Although having just said that I have just remembered that in the CX2600 schematic there are resistors in between the caps/TIA pins and controller port pins which would mean that the capacitor in the schematic above would be connected to the wrong point and so results would be unpredictable as it would not be altering the capacitance value as intended. Whereas those resistors are not present in the CX2600A schematic and so the desired change in capacitor should occur using the circuit above.

 

The presence and absence of the resistors between the different console versions is interesting, we only have the one schematic for the paddle controllers, therefore is we assume that all paddle controllers are identical to that of the schematic then the CR charge time will obviously be different between the 2600 and the 2600A as the extra resistors in the 2600 would mean less current is being used therefore increasing the charge time. 

I did find it odd that game control reported earlier in this thread was only over a small part of the pots range and not the entire (or nearly the entire) scale as you might expect it to be designed for, although what was not indicated was whether this phenomenon was being seen on both 2600's and 2600A's or just the latter. If it was seen only on the latter then the lack of the additional internal resistors could explain that, it would sense that paddle games written/tested for the 2600 with its longer CR time would react differently when played on a 2600A with its shorter CR time, that is unless any firmware in the 2600A or the paddle design was subsequently altered to account for that.

Assuming, for now that there was no firmware/paddle hardware compensation made for the change in CR time, and that therefore the high sensitively paddle problem is limited only to 2600A's then a possible way to restore the original gameplay/control on 2600A's for those earlier written paddle games could be to simply re-introduce the internal resistance of the 2600 which could be done like this...

932720269_Switchablesensitivitypaddles2.thumb.PNG.23f1e10d4b2710957dbd7c15eaf3f7d1.PNG   

With the switch open the additional resistance in included, with the switch closed it is removed.

Update:

I just noticed the RV1 in the schematic above shown a 1K, I just forgot to change it from the default value of the CAD package. It should of course be the 1M as originally fitted into the paddles.

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1 hour ago, Stephen Moss said:

The schematic is shown below.

245179391_Switchablesensitivitypaddles.PNG.200113fc0e710ff618b555231927a357.PNG

In answer to your question, yes you could use the existing single pot (RV1-B) and a fixed 1M ohm resistor in place of RV1-A, electrically there would not be any difference but if it will fit in the case you may find the connection easier with the stereo pot, plus if one wiper subsequently becomes jittery you could try the other. However, you cannot get away with a SPST switch as you need to make two separate connections, one to change the resistance and one to change the capacitance.

 

Although having just said that I have just remembered that in the CX2600 schematic there are resistors in between the caps/TIA pins and controller port pins which would mean that the capacitor in the schematic above would be connected to the wrong point and so results would be unpredictable as it would not be altering the capacitance value as intended. Whereas those resistors are not present in the CX2600A schematic and so the desired change in capacitor should occur using the circuit above.

 

The presence and absence of the resistors between the different console versions is interesting, we only have the one schematic for the paddle controllers, therefore is we assume that all paddle controllers are identical to that of the schematic then the CR charge time will obviously be different between the 2600 and the 2600A as the extra resistors in the 2600 would mean less current is being used therefore increasing the charge time. 

I did find it odd that game control reported earlier in this thread was only over a small part of the pots range and not the entire (or nearly the entire) scale as you might expect it to be designed for, although what was not indicated was whether this phenomenon was being seen on both 2600's and 2600A's or just the latter. If it was seen only on the latter then the lack of the additional internal resistors could explain that, it would sense that paddle games written/tested for the 2600 with its longer CR time would react differently when played on a 2600A with its shorter CR time, that is unless any firmware in the 2600A or the paddle design was subsequently altered to account for that.

Assuming, for now that there was no firmware/paddle hardware compensation made for the change in CR time, and that therefore the high sensitively paddle problem is limited only to 2600A's then a possible way to restore the original gameplay/control on 2600A's for those earlier written paddle games could be to simply re-introduce the internal resistance of the 2600 which could be done like this...

932720269_Switchablesensitivitypaddles2.thumb.PNG.23f1e10d4b2710957dbd7c15eaf3f7d1.PNG   

With the switch open the additional resistance in included, with the switch closed it is removed

 

That makes sense. I would be curious what results others report from the above circuits.

 

Is the 2600 the "heavy sixer" and the 2600A the 4-switch version? (I have the latter.)

 

I never understood why, if Atari was so bent on saving the cost of a couple switches, they had to move the difficulty ones to the back of the unit instead of the bw/color and maybe power. The big friendly switches up front would get more use for difficulty than enabling color. But whatever. 

 

Thanks again!

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