Ataritard Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I think I got it. Its mostly horizontal both pots. I have pics here so you can what it looks like. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/192363-masterplay-clone/ Anyhow good idea atariguy1021, but I don't have bezerk to test. It is also kinda expensive on ebay. But these are the ones I do have. 2 qbert. 1 messed one and one good. frogger missle command kangaroo 2 super breakout 2 galaxian jungle hunt centipede pacman pole position star raiders digdug Use Missile Command. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 But missle command is analog and all the 2600 sticks are digital so how would that work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) But missle command is analog and all the 2600 sticks are digital so how would that work. That's correct, Missile Command does not work. From the games you have to work with, I would choose Dig Dug to get things calibrated. Edited October 27, 2014 by atariguy1021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 So basically he starts by going right on the screen and then half way in the middle of the screen he goes down and starts digging. So what am I checking for. That after he digs him self in he stays in the middle of the screen and doesn't start moving or using his whatever that thing is called he uses to blow up the bad guys. If he stays put in the center and doesn't move I'm good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ataritard Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 That's correct, Missile Command does not work. From the games you have to work with, I would choose Dig Dug to get things calibrated. I'm not suggesting you try and play the game with a digital stick. Just calibrate the pots by putting the crosshairs in the middle of the screen. Dig Dug is a good choice. Once he stops moving you are good. Though keep in mind each game might have a slightly different sweet spot for each pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Ya thanks I got it now. Except pacman with normal controllers (mine no longer work) he goes to the right all the way first? Or does he stay center all the time until you move him? And no matter what I do frogger doesn't work. But everything else works. For the controller I use the a cx40. My archer doesn't go down for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Except pacman with normal controllers (mine no longer work) he goes to the right all the way first? Or does he stay center all the time until you move him? And no matter what I do frogger doesn't work. PacMan never stays still, that guy is always on the move. At the risk of being told all in caps, "I KNOW THAT!" You are aware that in frogger you have to press the fire button each time you want the frog to hop while holding the direction you wish to move? Point of interest, there is a sweet hack that takes the fire button out of the equation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I know that but in frogger the direction moves with out the fire button. I mean you have to fire to hop of course. But if I press down he doesn't go down. But he turns that direction at least. So I know I'm ready to hop that direction. And if I press up he turns back up. He doesn't hop but he turns back north at least. But he doesn't go left and right. Only up and down. So it doen't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Cafeman Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Point of interest, there is a sweet hack that takes the fire button out of the equation. Ah yes, the "Dead Frogs" hack! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I have completed the run of MasterPlay clones that I mentioned previously in this thread. I contacted the people that expressed interest through PM and sold units to those who were still interested. I have three more units for sale currently. The price for AtariAge users is $85 shipped within the continental US. I will only ship to confirmed addresses, send me a PM if you're interested. I'll be posting in the marketplace as well. Here's a link to a video showing the controller interface in action and calibration: http://youtu.be/YhMkiPcCUm8 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Thanks but a little bulky for me. I like the knobs however. Mine doesn't have knobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zonie Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) Yes, the cable aspect of the Redemption is the main reason it is no longer available. We were able to find a plastic DB15 connector that worked okay in the 5200 with some shaving of the plastic, but it never did fit as well as a normal 5200 connector, which is deeper and has small tabs to help hold the controller in place. We also had to have cables custom built, and they were very expensive overall. On top of that, soldering the cables to the board was also very time consuming and error prone--I had to rework many boards due to the cables alone. Aside from the cable problem, a revised "Redemption" adapter would also need to use something other than a 5200 cartridge shell for the case, since those are time consuming to prep. I really would love to make a revised Redemption adapter available, as I am asked about them on a regular basis. ..Al ...Old Thread, but one of the reasons my 5200 stays on the shelf. I have Adventure II but don't play it. I have WIco's, including the y cables and the keypad, but I don't like them. Too clunky. How about releasing a version with the PCB with a terminal block on it, and a pinout sheet instructing users how to pull a cable out of a non-working controller and connect them to the board. No soldering. No issues. Open case, connect cable, close case. Cable goes through a "U-notch" at the top so the case cover locks it in place... Make it fit in a standard Radio Shack project box to make it cheap and easy to buy. Edited December 24, 2014 by Zonie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 How about releasing a version with the PCB with a terminal block on it, and a pinout sheet instructing users how to pull a cable out of a non-working controller and connect them to the board. A stock controller cable lacks the wire that carries +5V from the controller port. If you were to use cables from dead controllers, you would also have to figure out another method of powering the circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tschak909 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 We do live in an age where we can PRINT the needed connectors. -Thom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 (edited) We do live in an age where we can PRINT the needed connectors. We do? I don't think printing is the solution here. Edited December 25, 2014 by atariguy1021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 I think the best solution for the cable issue is one that has been implemented before: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/194193-fs-atari-5200-masterplay-clone-and-s-video-mod/ Use a female DB15 connector on the PCB and then purchase an extension cable similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNK-AES-MVS-Famicom-Neo-Geo-Controller-Gamepad-Joystick-Extension-Cable-6-Feet-/151329556996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233bf1ca04 Bonus, you get an extension cable to use for other controllers as well. There was a time when the DB15 cables were hard to find at a reasonable price but $12.50 shipped seems reasonable to me. This same idea was mentioned earlier in this thread but was nixed because it wasn't a complete solution. I believe because it would likely be left up to the purchaser to supply the extension cable. I decided to use a cable that was soldered in place for my controller interface (that uses low_budget's circuit) for that very reason but also because it was cheaper. That cost savings ultimately is lost in time, since it's obviously much more labor intensive to strip and solder 15 wires than to solder up a 15 pin port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zonie Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 ...Old Thread, but one of the reasons my 5200 stays on the shelf. I have Adventure II but don't play it. I have WIco's, including the y cables and the keypad, but I don't like them. Too clunky. How about releasing a version with the PCB with a terminal block on it, and a pinout sheet instructing users how to pull a cable out of a non-working controller and connect them to the board. No soldering. No issues. Open case, connect cable, close case. Cable goes through a "U-notch" at the top so the case cover locks it in place... Make it fit in a standard Radio Shack project box to make it cheap and easy to buy. Ahh... I hadn't realized that. The 3D printing does make sense, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 The 3D printing does make sense, however. It's not cost-effective. The necessary components are already available at a reasonable price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringfellow Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 would it be possible to integrate the masterplay clone into the trak ball? Like cosmetically just add a 9-pin connector. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I like that idea! The +5V is there... I'm going to look into this. I'll post when I have more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazball Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I love the trak ball idea also! As desperate as I am to have some kind of Redemption-type adaptor, these pictured above seem overly bulky. Eagerly awaiting to see what you come up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) As desperate as I am to have some kind of Redemption-type adaptor, these pictured above seem overly bulky. I find it hard to believe that any self-respecting 5200 fan would complain about bulk! The project box that I used measures in at 4 1/2" X 3" X 1 3/4". In fact, the Redemption and the Masterplay both have a larger footprint in terms of area, yet neither have a built in keypad. The adapters pictured above are roughly twice as tall as either of those units, but that's mainly to accommodate the calibration knobs which help to offer increased compatibility compared to the original Masterplay. I'm not sure about the Redemption's compatibility since I don't own one. Since the size concern has been mentioned before, I'm going to post another photo with a Genesis controller for reference. I think it's appropriately sized but opinions are just that... I love the trak ball idea also! Eagerly awaiting to see what you come up with I've already cracked open one of my Trak-Ball controllers and taken a look around. I see no issue with adding a DB-9 connector in conjunction with a Masterplay type solution that can be used with the Trak-Ball's existing keypad, start, reset, and pause buttons. All I need to figure out is the most efficient way to switch between the two different modes. Edited January 9, 2015 by atariguy1021 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazball Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Apologies - I should have watched your video first. Along with the other pics, I see it's nowhere near as big or bulky as I'd thought. Still, I'm eager to see what kind of trak-ball solution you come up with. It would be nice to have it all official looking. I do admit I'm not a huge fan of the knobs, would silders be a possibility? Don't mean to sound like a detractor though. Awesome work! We need this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariguy1021 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Apologies - I should have watched your video first. Along with the other pics, I see it's nowhere near as big or bulky as I'd thought. It would be nice to have it all official looking. I do admit I'm not a huge fan of the knobs, would silders be a possibility? I straighten you out on the size issue and now it's the knobs!!! Bottom line is I built those to be used. If someone wants something to put up on a shelf and marvel at the glory that is its perfectly proportioned and streamlined beauty... buy something else. Why not buy a sculpture and claim that it allows you to play the Atari 5200 with digital joysticks... most people won't know what you're talking about and they won't give a s#%t either way! All kidding aside, I actually appreciate the input. I only did this small production run for the experience of doing it; I thought it would be fun. I'm working on other projects that I'll likely refine a bit more as a result of this experience. Still, I'm eager to see what kind of trak-ball solution you come up with. After playing around with the circuit connected up on a breadboard, I settled on the method I will use to switch between the two modes. I am currently designing a pcb for this project as well. I could wire it up this weekend on a prototype board, but I enjoy working on the pcb's. Once the boards come in, I'll start a new thread for the Trak-Ball project. I don't really see myself doing more than a handful of these, but I think stringfellow had a great idea and would like one for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazball Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) I'd certainly love my trak-ball modified too, and hope you'll consider taking mine for treatment if it all works out a nicely as it sounds! Make no mistake, I'd be using the hell out of it. I currently have Wico adaptors and joysticks, and they work well enough. Since the idea of the bulit-into-the-trak-ball solution came up, I can't help thinking how nice it would be. Having the digital controller would breathe new life into my 5200 gaming, and would look nice and clean doing so. I generally prefer everything unmodified or if modified, as original looking as possible. (For instance, Yurkie modded my NES for RGB, but I mentioned I didn't really care for the knob used for pallette switch and when we spoke over the phone, he agreed he didn't like it much either and after that used a concealed switch underneath.) I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for your trak-ball thread Edited January 11, 2015 by glazball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.