NES Error

[SlowCoder]

I procurred a rather nice looking NES from GW yesterday. Took it home, and it gives the typical error flash. I have done the standard contact cleanup. I also removed the internal cart connector and did my best to clean all the contacts on the main board.

 

I know the cart connector is one common failure point, though the one I have appears to be in good shape. I will be hitting it with a voltmeter just to make sure.

 

What other weaknesses should I check for?

 

 

[SEgamer]

Out of the 15+ NES's I've fixed, they all only had the cart connector problem except a few where the controller plugs on the main board had to be cleaned.

 

About half of those had connectors that still appaered to be in good shape, but still wouldn't work after cleaning them and re-bending the pins. I'd say get a new connector, but be careful. You may end up with one that works too well, and by that I mean that you'll have to pry the game out of it with a pair of pliers or an IC extractor.

[Chuplayer]

Step 1 of NES refurbishment is always to replace the 72-pin connector.

 

Then you can disable the 10NES lockout chip for good measure.

[SlowCoder]

Can you get replacement connectors new? Where? How much?

[PsychoKittyNet]

You can online, for under 10 bucks. Another problem could be thE cart, I have a game that won't play in anything but my too loader

Edited April 28, 2011 by PsychoKittyNet

[SlowCoder]

You can online, for under 10 bucks. Another problem could be thE cart, I have a game that won't play in anything but my too loader

I know its not a cart problem because I've tried multiple carts. Wish it was that simple.

 

Whxt would be the best process for rebending the pins? Is there a tutorial?

[Ace_1]

I don't see why people bother to buy replacement connectors when all that needs to be done is to tighten the bottom row of pins on the existing cartridge slot. I find the best way to do that is to stick a small flat-head screwdriver under the pins and gently pry them up one at a time. Don't overtighten the pins as you might either break them or make the cartridge slot so tight your NES will have the common Famiclone death grip. Just tighten the pins enough for the cartridges to work without pushing them down.

[fiddlepaddle]

I don't see why people bother to buy replacement connectors when all that needs to be done is to tighten the bottom row of pins on the existing cartridge slot. I find the best way to do that is to stick a small flat-head screwdriver under the pins and gently pry them up one at a time. Don't overtighten the pins as you might either break them or make the cartridge slot so tight your NES will have the common Famiclone death grip. Just tighten the pins enough for the cartridges to work without pushing them down.

This is what I did, and it has worked great ever since. Also, disable the lockout chip by clipping the correct pin (it's simple, but find and follow the tutorial, carefully). I had many games that would sometimes flash before I disabled the lockout.

[nathanallan]

I'm with fiddlepaddle, if the connector has been serviced then it's the NES10 chip.

[0078265317]

Or try a game genie. Sometimes using a gamegenie makes better contact with the pins. Or get a top loader. As for the connector I got mine of ebay for like 6 dollars.

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 370447384178

 

Not bad plus warentee.

[Chuplayer]

Or try a game genie. Sometimes using a gamegenie makes better contact with the pins. Or get a top loader. As for the connector I got mine of ebay for like 6 dollars.

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 370447384178

 

Not bad plus warentee.

The Game Genie workaround worked for me for quite a few years, but after enough time the connector becomes less forgiving with the Game Genie. That's the main reason why I got a new 72-pin connector to begin with.

[SlowCoder]

I don't see why people bother to buy replacement connectors when all that needs to be done is to tighten the bottom row of pins on the existing cartridge slot. I find the best way to do that is to stick a small flat-head screwdriver under the pins and gently pry them up one at a time. Don't overtighten the pins as you might either break them or make the cartridge slot so tight your NES will have the common Famiclone death grip. Just tighten the pins enough for the cartridges to work without pushing them down.

This is exactly what I've done and it's working in test (unit still disassembled). But it's got the death grip so I may have to push them back down a little and see if I can loosen it a little. I'll also look into the lockout mod.

[jferio]

I've done the lockout "extraction" myself, it's dead easy. In a way, it's even easier the way I did it, which was to remove the chip entirely, and add a socket in it's place that had the appropriate pin 'clipped', and then plug the chip into the socket.

 

It made for a mod that could be reversed if it was desired.

[TheGameCollector]

Are there any US released games that refuse to work once the NES10 chip is disabled?

[MagitekAngel]

Are there any US released games that refuse to work once the NES10 chip is disabled?

 

Don't think so; on the contrary, it's supposed to help get unlicensed games to work.

[0078265317]

There are a few just don't remember. I think nwc 1990 was one of them and earthbound which never got realesed after some googling.

[Blarginatorr]

I got my toaster in the early 90s, and it was used already then, tho not very much.

But still after all these years, it powers on almost flawlessly, only some specific cartridges have issues, possibly due to dirty/worn connectors.

 

Killing the NES10 is 100% win win situation. So far I known no downsides of it.

For a PAL NES user like me, having a region free NES helps a lot.

 

About GameGenie, what I've heard, heavy use of the GG actually wears out/bends the connector pins faster? Is this true?

 

My big brother made the NES10 chip mod ages ago, and only later I actually took open it to look at it, only to find out that he didnt cut the leg in the usual way, instead he had soldered cables on the underside of the PCB, that way managing to override the chip. Very perplexing choice I must say. Anyone got any information about this kind of method?

[SlowCoder]

My first attempt at fixing my NES was successful ... sort of. It works as long as I don't push the cart down.

 

I think my mistake was in trying to also fix the top row of pins. I'd pulled them out and bent each of them slightly to try to make a better connection. This was a trial/error thing. It also gave me a chance to clean the top pins a little better since they were exposed. Was this a good thing? Did it actually help? I don't know.

 

Right now I'm just happy it works. It was a good learning experience. I may go ahead and buy another connector for the next time it wants to act up.

[0078265317]

Just a crazy idea but what about stuffing something underneath the pins to keep it from ever bending in the first place.

[Blarginatorr]

Just a crazy idea but what about stuffing something underneath the pins to keep it from ever bending in the first place.

That sounds like an effective way to getting the Cartridge stuck and wear the connectors.

[Austin]

Just a crazy idea but what about stuffing something underneath the pins to keep it from ever bending in the first place.

 

Never tried that myself, but like Blarg said I would be worried that carts would be near-impossible to remove.

 

A fail-safe method I've found is sanding down the plastic between the pins. The problem is usually that the pins get depressed to the point where they sit below the plastic teeth on the connector. This keeps the cart from making contact with the pins. Getting a new 72-pin fixes the problem, but the issue is likely to crop back up down the road if the system gets a lot of use like it would owned by someone in the late '80s. The only thing is to make sure the pins aren't bent too much in the process of sanding down the teeth, but if you're paying attention it's hard to make that mistake. I've fixed dozens of NES consoles this way, works like a charm, and as long as the carts are clean, they should work every time.

[tz101]

No need to purchase a new 72-pin connector. With it out of the unit, simply run extra fine grit sandpaper back and forth between the top and bottom rows of "pins" a few times. Follow this with a toothbrush soaked in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Again, back and forth with the toothbrush bristles deeply inserted between the top and bottom rows of "pins" a few times.

 

Presto, all should be solved. Reassemble the NES console and make certain to thoroughly clean the game cart pins with sandpaper and 91% isopropyl as well. Enjoy your refurbed NES!

Edited May 1, 2011 by tz101

[0078265317]

Or if we stuffed something under the contact half way. So it would still bend not never enough to loose contact with the game. As it still bends it won't be too hard to remove. Or something squishy like so it still flexes bot always goes back to shape.

 

I fixed mine with 2 game genies. Removed the plastic A shaped part from two genies.. Taped it together and weged it into the nes so part of the second genie sticks outs. Or 3 genies if you really need. Can be done. Then connect the game to the genie and it starts every time. There is a little over hang so I just prop the game on top of a shoe box and walla.

 

Kinda makeshift but for now works ok.

 

Or get a top loader. Also have one of those. Official nes top loader not a knockoff. Got it off ebay for 36 dollars.

[Eltigro]

I need to get my toaster back out and mess with it again. It had flashing issues, I ordered a new connector because everything I read at the time said it was easier than bending pins. While waiting for the part to arrive, I put the NES on the floor by my desk. When the part arrived, I went to pick up the NES and found that the cat had peed on it. Cleaned it for a few hours with alcohol and swabs. Urine had gotten on everything. Replaced the connector, put everything back together, plugged it in, inserted a game, and got nothing.

 

I said screw it and ordered a top loader of Ebay. It works great so I never got back to messing with the toaster.

 

Also, I kind of like the idea of maybe putting something behind them, but it would probably be too difficult to do in reality. Finding the right size of thing and the right resiliency... perhaps an individual spring on each of them?

Edited May 1, 2011 by Eltigro

[0078265317]

Remind me to never get a cat.