Benefit to keeping my 2600 4-switchers?

[SlowCoder]

I have a nice 4 switch woody and a nice Vader. When I started collecting the Atari's I thought I'd like to collect each version. I never got to the Jr's because it just didn't seem worth it. I have my H6, L6 woody and L6 TeleGames systems, which I really like. I've not found much benefit in having the 4 switchers. They don't fit inside my TeleGames storage container (have to unplug the cables to put the lid on, because they stick out diagonally), and I don't like the look of them overall compared to my 6's.

 

For those of you who have 4's, what reason do you keep them?

[mtshark7]

I think the only reason to keep them is if you are collecting all the different versions of Atari 2600. The only 4 switch I own is the Black 'vader' one which I enjoy cos it has the best picture and sound compared to my two L6 ones.

[AtariLeaf]

I have a nice 4 switch woody and a nice Vader. When I started collecting the Atari's I thought I'd like to collect each version. I never got to the Jr's because it just didn't seem worth it. I have my H6, L6 woody and L6 TeleGames systems, which I really like. I've not found much benefit in having the 4 switchers. They don't fit inside my TeleGames storage container (have to unplug the cables to put the lid on, because they stick out diagonally), and I don't like the look of them overall compared to my 6's.

 

For those of you who have 4's, what reason do you keep them?

 

I'm a bit of a hoarder when it comes to 2600's. Since the chips are interchangeable, if a sixer dies I might sacrifice a 4 switch for the chips.

[flammingcowz]

My 4 switch woody had a better picture than my light sixer

[zylon]

Right around Rev-14 the color and video were improved.I kept one of each and a spare sears 4sw, but I only use the 6ers. They're what I used to I guess.

4sw upsides: were generally more reliable and simple with less compatibility issues and easier to use cart slot. Also used more standarized internal parts. More room inside for potential mods.

4sw downsides: Working on them is a little harder as they use more traces on both sides of the boards and it's easier to lift one off. The control port mounting is marginal at best(easily remedied) and lower quality construction overall.

 

I'd keep at least one 4sw around at least as a spare.

[Benzman66]

Many of the Vader boards, while consisting of the same parts as the 4 switch woodies, had a resistor soldered across pins 6 and 9 on the TIA chip which made the colors seems more vibrant. I have gotten a few boards in from woodies that had the resistor as well, which means the original board may have been replaced at one time with a Vader, or an individual did the mod at some point.

[littleman jack]

I keep a 4 switch woody only because it was the first Atari I ever played. Otherwise, I like my vader and Sears Video Arcade II quite a lot. But I really like the way that the 4 switch woody looks. It's simple, clean, light, and has the woodgrain. All nice features. But the vader does display better color. I never knew about the reason until I read post #6 by Benzman 66. Thanks Benzman66.

[mtshark7]

WOW that's awesome! I never knew that about the vader Atari 2600's.

 

 

Many of the Vader boards, while consisting of the same parts as the 4 switch woodies, had a resistor soldered across pins 6 and 9 on the TIA chip which made the colors seems more vibrant. I have gotten a few boards in from woodies that had the resistor as well, which means the original board may have been replaced at one time with a Vader, or an individual did the mod at some point.

[SlowCoder]

Many of the Vader boards, while consisting of the same parts as the 4 switch woodies, had a resistor soldered across pins 6 and 9 on the TIA chip which made the colors seems more vibrant. I have gotten a few boards in from woodies that had the resistor as well, which means the original board may have been replaced at one time with a Vader, or an individual did the mod at some point.

Any reason that wouldn't work on a 6 switcher?

[Benzman66]

 

Any reason that wouldn't work on a 6 switcher?

 

Not to my knowledge. TIA chips are all the same whether for a six or four switch, so it would probably work, although the sixers usually have pretty good color from the start.

[Benzman66]

I keep a 4 switch woody only because it was the first Atari I ever played. Otherwise, I like my vader and Sears Video Arcade II quite a lot. But I really like the way that the 4 switch woody looks. It's simple, clean, light, and has the woodgrain. All nice features. But the vader does display better color. I never knew about the reason until I read post #6 by Benzman 66. Thanks Benzman66.

 

No problem! There was a period of time (earlier versions) that the resistor was added to the TIA pins. I guess the results were so good as in later boards, there are no resistors added to the pins, but rather changes in the "network" of resistors on the boards.

 

If you want to add one, it is 680 ohms and they are available at most electronic shops. While many think it actually makes the colors brighter, it doesn't have anything to do with color, but provides the NTSC standard's blanking lowest signal level excluding sync. Some TVs give better color with the blanking signal, others look better without it.

 

All you have to do is solder the ends to tip 6 & 9 of the TIA, which is the bottom chip on the board (#10444 is on the chip). Turn the board over with the chip still at the bottom and count starting in from the right of the row of pins closest to the boards edge for 6 and 9.

 

Zylon, do you have a pic lying around of the board back for these guys to see what I mean?

Edited June 7, 2011 by Benzman66

[potatohead]

Well, you have parts, or a good chance at a working unit over time. Might as well keep a couple for that reason. I've only got one right now, and I had to fix it, and I wonder...

 

(I don't wonder enough to get another one right now, because I don't have room)

 

You could just feel good about them too.

 

Finally, fix them up, and do giveaways sometimes. Wait for the right person, and set them up! *BOOM*, instant fellow retro-gamer! Harmony carts mean parting with some carts isn't that big of a deal either.

[SlowCoder]

Well, you have parts, or a good chance at a working unit over time. Might as well keep a couple for that reason.

 

Hmmm. I could sell them off and get a Harmony. I've been looking to get one.

 

The thing about using them for parts ... is that I could try to sell them and use the money to buy a couple ok 6'ers. Might lose a little money (6er's are generally worth a little more), but then I'd have the 6er's I like better. Besides, I already have 2 H6's, a L6 woody and a L6 Sears. So I'm not particularly hurting for parts.

 

The problem with "feeling good" about having them is that, honestly I feel they're taking up space, and not really benefitting me (as in I'm not really enjoying them). As I have 2 H6's, and 2 L6's, I'm happy.

 

So, methinks I may go ahead and sell them off.

[zylon]

I keep a 4 switch woody only because it was the first Atari I ever played. Otherwise, I like my vader and Sears Video Arcade II quite a lot. But I really like the way that the 4 switch woody looks. It's simple, clean, light, and has the woodgrain. All nice features. But the vader does display better color. I never knew about the reason until I read post #6 by Benzman 66. Thanks Benzman66.

 

No problem! There was a period of time (earlier versions) that the resistor was added to the TIA pins. I guess the results were so good as in later boards, there are no resistors added to the pins, but rather changes in the "network" of resistors on the boards.

 

If you want to add one, it is 680 ohms and they are available at most electronic shops. While many think it actually makes the colors brighter, it doesn't have anything to do with color, but provides the NTSC standard's blanking lowest signal level excluding sync. Some TVs give better color with the blanking signal, others look better without it.

 

All you have to do is solder the ends to tip 6 & 9 of the TIA, which is the bottom chip on the board (#10444 is on the chip). Turn the board over with the chip still at the bottom and count starting in from the right of the row of pins closest to the boards edge for 6 and 9.

 

Zylon, do you have a pic lying around of the board back for these guys to see what I mean?

Which Rev# ? I have a 12,14,16 handy I could shoot. 14 is the most common found and always has the better video. My 12 doesn't have the improvement done. The video from that one is darker and less vibrant than even my 6ers.

[flammingcowz]

Do you actually see a resistor connecting the 2 pins on the bottom of the board? Is that what you are supposed to do? Just resistor them together?

[flammingcowz]

Do you actually see a resistor connecting the 2 pins on the bottom of the board? Is that what you are supposed to do? Just resistor them together?

 

I only have a rev 9 and rev 12, and I touched(not soldered) 2 330ohm resistors to 6 and 9, and the screen got noticeably brighter and clearer. Now if only I could find a way to make it permanent.

[zylon]

Do you actually see a resistor connecting the 2 pins on the bottom of the board? Is that what you are supposed to do? Just resistor them together?

 

I only have a rev 9 and rev 12, and I touched(not soldered) 2 330ohm resistors to 6 and 9, and the screen got noticeably brighter and clearer. Now if only I could find a way to make it permanent.

Yes. You would just solder them to the pins on the underside of the board.

[flammingcowz]

Do you actually see a resistor connecting the 2 pins on the bottom of the board? Is that what you are supposed to do? Just resistor them together?

 

I only have a rev 9 and rev 12, and I touched(not soldered) 2 330ohm resistors to 6 and 9, and the screen got noticeably brighter and clearer. Now if only I could find a way to make it permanent.

Yes. You would just solder them to the pins on the underside of the board.

 

Yeah I tried, the TIA pin and the resistor wont both fit in the hole on mine oh well

[zylon]

Do you actually see a resistor connecting the 2 pins on the bottom of the board? Is that what you are supposed to do? Just resistor them together?

 

I only have a rev 9 and rev 12, and I touched(not soldered) 2 330ohm resistors to 6 and 9, and the screen got noticeably brighter and clearer. Now if only I could find a way to make it permanent.

Yes. You would just solder them to the pins on the underside of the board.

 

Yeah I tried, the TIA pin and the resistor wont both fit in the hole on mine oh well

Here. I got the pics Benzman wanted. You can see how Atari mounted the resistor. Atari did it on the chip side, individuals put it on bottom. There was a service bulletin on this. These are from a Rev 14 board, the last design without the extra resistor planned into it.

You can just form a good solder blob on the 2 pins to stick resistor to as well.

[zylon]

I got one for ya Benzman, what is the purpose of these 2 pins on TIA left out on this Rev 12 4sw board? I know for a fact that this was factory since this deck was bought new by a friend of mine's parents and they never opened it. I've left it alone since it works, but this is the only one I've ever seen like this.

[Benzman66]

Here is a pic of the resistor on the back. It will fit perfectly under the metal shield.

[Benzman66]

I got one for ya Benzman, what is the purpose of these 2 pins on TIA left out on this Rev 12 4sw board? I know for a fact that this was factory since this deck was bought new by a friend of mine's parents and they never opened it. I've left it alone since it works, but this is the only one I've ever seen like this.

 

Thanks for getting those pics up Zylon. I just got my camera working a few minutes ago and was going to upload when I saw you already did.

 

That is a strange one. In all the systems I have repaired, and that being quite a lot, I have never seen two pins left out of the socket. I would have to say someone was a little tired and careless when they assembled it. Luckily it did not affect the operation.

[flammingcowz]

I got them to stay there. It is AV modded and this just made the picture that much better.

 

And those lifted pins, one of them is +5V and one is data input/output I think. It's amazing that it works with them out of it!

Edited June 8, 2011 by flammingcowz

[Benzman66]

 

And those lifted pins, one of them is +5V and one is data input/output I think. It's amazing that it works with them out of it!

 

Pin 1 is 5V ground and pin 2 is sync.

[SlowCoder]

Guys, this is some great info. Thank you for sharing.