mtshark7 #26 Posted June 8, 2011 would this resistor mod be needed if you are doing a composite/s-video mod? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #27 Posted June 8, 2011 I got them to stay there. It is AV modded and this just made the picture that much better. And those lifted pins, one of them is +5V and one is data input/output I think. It's amazing that it works with them out of it! Good! I'd put a small piece of electrical tape over the resistor before the shield. That is weird in that one deck I have. I've never done that to a system and I've been itching to try putting the pins in correctly. Maybe I'll try tonight and see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #28 Posted June 8, 2011 would this resistor mod be needed if you are doing a composite/s-video mod? It's not necessary, but helps. Most av mods I've seen are slightly darker picture so it can only benefit you. IMO 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtshark7 #29 Posted June 9, 2011 Awesome thanks for the tip! I can't wait to do my 3 Mods to my Atari 2600!!! Its gonna look amazing! I'll start a new thred once its finished so everyone can see the awesomeness. :-) would this resistor mod be needed if you are doing a composite/s-video mod? It's not necessary, but helps. Most av mods I've seen are slightly darker picture so it can only benefit you. IMO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #30 Posted June 9, 2011 Later on, I was going to do a screenshot from a board without the resistor and one with for comparison. Update: I did put the pins from the TIA on that Rev12 board back in and no ill effects. I had to try, it was bugging me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtshark7 #31 Posted June 9, 2011 A comparision screenshot would be awesome! Maybe one of it actually in use too...to show the picture quality difference? Later on, I was going to do a screenshot from a board without the resistor and one with for comparison. Update: I did put the pins from the TIA on that Rev12 board back in and no ill effects. I had to try, it was bugging me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #32 Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) I've started a game on each of 4 systems set properly: L6er sunnyvale, 4sw Rev 12 no resistor, 4sw Rev 13 no resistor, 4sw Rev 16 with resistor. Space invaders provides a good example. Note the shading on barriers and borders, also the difference in score color. These were all shot with the same camera on the same TV using same cart, power cord, tv switch, and camera settings. If you use the 6er as a baseline, the Rev 12 looks washed out, the Rev 13 looks slightly better, and Rev 16 is almost spot on. Edited June 9, 2011 by zylon 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #33 Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) Now here's 2 of Kaboom on the same L6er unit before and after and AV mod. I switched to Kaboom because it's a good one to show the change from RF to AV and these 2 are old shots from when I did the work. Notice how the darker colors got darker and the light ones got lighter. Without adding the resistor(if system doesn't already have it), the differences would be even further apart. The AV does add much to the sharpness and clarity which can be seen on the mad bomber. Edited June 9, 2011 by zylon 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlowCoder #34 Posted June 9, 2011 Before even reading your description of the Invaders screens, I was thinking I liked the upper left (H6) and lower right ones the best. Great job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #35 Posted June 9, 2011 Before even reading your description of the Invaders screens, I was thinking I liked the upper left (H6) and lower right ones the best. Great job. Thanks. The woody 4sw have about a 50-50 on having the mod already installed. Rev 14 has it but 12's and 13's usually don't. Vaders have Rev 14 through 18 and always have it. Rev 17+18 don't have socketed chips though. Of note: all Sears 4sw seem to have Rev 14 with the mod installed. You preferred my tester 6er and my vader then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtshark7 #36 Posted June 9, 2011 Zylon: Excellent job on the pics! Also, how do you know which revision the board is? To sum things up...the only revisions you would need to do this mod to are: 9, 12, & 13? Thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlowCoder #37 Posted June 9, 2011 You preferred my tester 6er Of course. and my vader then Dang. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #38 Posted June 9, 2011 You preferred my tester 6er Of course. and my vader then Dang. I knew you'd crack In the end, it still proves 6ers are somewhat better video-wise. At least for my applications anyway. Don't knock the vaders that much, they're my best sellers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #39 Posted June 9, 2011 Zylon: Excellent job on the pics! Also, how do you know which revision the board is? To sum things up...the only revisions you would need to do this mod to are: 9, 12, & 13? Thanks!!! It will show which Rev# the board is just above the cart slot and near left control port. The best ones to start with for modding are Rev 14 early and late + Rev 16. The later ones are a lot harder and the earlier ones require a bit more work, but still doable. I've modded quite a few 14's and 16's years ago. In general, all lower revisions than 14 need it if doing av mod. :!: 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlowCoder #40 Posted June 9, 2011 I knew you'd crack In the end, it still proves 6ers are somewhat better video-wise. At least for my applications anyway. Don't knock the vaders that much, they're my best sellers. In that case, I know you wish you had my Vader H6. I'm not really knocking the Vader. I've just found I really prefer the 6's to the 4's, aesthetics-wise. But that's just personal opinion, as I think the quality is about the same any way you look at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #41 Posted June 9, 2011 I knew you'd crack In the end, it still proves 6ers are somewhat better video-wise. At least for my applications anyway. Don't knock the vaders that much, they're my best sellers. In that case, I know you wish you had my Vader H6. I'm not really knocking the Vader. I've just found I really prefer the 6's to the 4's, aesthetics-wise. But that's just personal opinion, as I think the quality is about the same any way you look at it. I prefer the L6ers myself. Probably since that's what still have from back in way-back . Otherwise, I prefer the more solid port mounting and all switches on front as 6ers have. I sell lots of 4's and sometimes H6ers because they sell. The 4's usually need far less work so I don't have as much $ into them. That said, I keep one of each style for collection and one spare as insurance, and they're great for mod projects Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtshark7 #42 Posted June 9, 2011 Zylon: Awesome thanks!!! Also stay tuned cos after I finish my Atari 2600 mods I'll post pics of before, during, and after pics for you all to see! Additionally, I was thinking couldn't you add a POT across pin 6 and 9 on the TIA and adjust it until the picture comes in the clearest? our could you damage the TIA chip by too low or too high resistance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #43 Posted June 10, 2011 Zylon: Awesome thanks!!! Also stay tuned cos after I finish my Atari 2600 mods I'll post pics of before, during, and after pics for you all to see! Additionally, I was thinking couldn't you add a POT across pin 6 and 9 on the TIA and adjust it until the picture comes in the clearest? our could you damage the TIA chip by too low or too high resistance? IMO too high a resistance shouldn't hurt a thing, too low might. That's a ? for those a bit more technical than me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benzman66 #44 Posted June 10, 2011 If you REALLY want to see the difference between the resistor and one without, try the pac man cart. The blue background is quite awesome. As far as the pot, I wouldn't do it, but you could always go up or down a little on the resistor number. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flammingcowz #45 Posted June 10, 2011 Here is my AV modded 4 switch with the resistors on 6 and 9 compared to an unmodified heavy sixer Bank Heist looks way better on the heavy sixer, and pac-man looks better on it too, it is not as dark and has the proper colors. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benzman66 #46 Posted June 10, 2011 (edited) You can adjust the color wheel (white/green/or blue depending on the model) near the power regulator a little to get the colors closer matched, but you are never going to get it as perfect as the sixer units. Edited June 10, 2011 by Benzman66 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zylon #47 Posted June 10, 2011 You can adjust the color wheel (white/green/or blue depending on the model) near the power regulator a little to get the colors closer matched, but you are never going to get it as perfect as the sixer units. Agreed. Closest I was able to get for my demo shots was on the vader board. That was a real tight adjustment. The other 2 were hopelessly outmatched. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keatah #48 Posted June 10, 2011 I got one for ya Benzman, what is the purpose of these 2 pins on TIA left out on this Rev 12 4sw board? I know for a fact that this was factory since this deck was bought new by a friend of mine's parents and they never opened it. I've left it alone since it works, but this is the only one I've ever seen like this. That's highly unusual. Perhaps certain odd or "rare" games won't work correctly. It's also strange a consumer product would be modded that way at the factory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites