600XL 64k upgrade pictures?

[joelm]

This is how it looked when I opened it up

[joelm]

This is how it looked when I opened it up, except that I had swapped the RAM already.

 

Edit: I'm going to stop posting things from my phone, for some reason it's creating double posts.

Edited May 11, 2016 by joelm

[joelm]

Any chance that someone with a working 64K upgrade could run a memory test and verify that 4 lines of 16 memory blocks will show (in addition to the two ROM blocks) when the test is complete?

 

As an aside, when I access the test by typing "bye" after basic loads, it shows 8 fewer RAM blocks than when I boot directly to the test by holding down option during power-up.

[RodLightning]

I have two 600XLs with slightly different versions of the 4464 2 chip upgrade. For what it's worth, the built-in self test does not show four rows of blocks like on the 800XL on either. Running RAMTEST.COM does show 65536 bytes available. Otherwise, they both behave like 800XL. I don't know if this is the norm for 600XL or if there is a problem somewhere. So far, I have been able to run 48k and 64k software.

 

The upgrades I used are pictured in post #65 of this thread. On my second 600XL U18 has a jumper and three bent up pins, and uses only two wires at U5 and U6.

[joelm]

RodLightning- Thank you for that response, I had assumed all 64K would show up on the built-in RAM test. I read that 800 XL's apparently don't show the full 64K on the built-in test either. It got me thinking and I tried out a couple titles from later in the 80's and they worked just fine. I did some checking and found out that some earlier software for the Atari 8-bits doesn't work right on the XL line because if the way it's programmed. So, it appears that the upgrade I installed IS actually working. Sadly, Beach Head and Combat Leader don't work on my upgraded 600 XL. Thankfully Rescue on Fractalus does work.

 

One thing I noticed is that my video is much noisier than it was before the upgrade. Now my screen has some lines on the left when I'm running certain programs (especially cartridges) and the screen has some light "snow". Is this a result of the upgrade or do I just need to adjust a POT somewhere?

Edited May 16, 2016 by joelm

[RodLightning]

You might try working the 2-3 channel selector switch a few times each way. Using a shorter, thicker RF cable also might help as the stock atari cable is kind of cheap. Mine had a RF choke looped inside a plastic disk that never helped much. Otherwise, you can try checking the metal shield inside to make sure it is secured tightly to the board. Often times, pressing down on the top shield in the area of the RF modulator will improve the screen while applying pressure. The 600 and 800XL are often times vulnerable to any kind of interference in the room, and the computer itself creates noise that can affect the picture.

[JoSch]

I did the extension like this, but now I only get a black screen.

I reverted the mod, but still I only get a black screen.

Where should I look at? ANTIC? GTIA?

Edited June 1, 2016 by JoSch

[marcokitt2000]

Hello check pia chip 6520, when powerup check if the 6520 get very hot.

 

Do you have other 600xl than switch 1 bij 1 the chips.

 

 

Gr.

 

Marco

[+kheller2]

RodLightning- Thank you for that response, I had assumed all 64K would show up on the built-in RAM test. I read that 800 XL's apparently don't show the full 64K on the built-in test either. It got me thinking and I tried out a couple titles from later in the 80's and they worked just fine. I did some checking and found out that some earlier software for the Atari 8-bits doesn't work right on the XL line because if the way it's programmed.

 

 

XL's show 48 blocks for the 48K not under the 16K OS ROM.

The OS ROM has gone through several changes, and there is a version on the XE's that test 128K (or is it 64 + 48?)

It is interesting that the 600XL doesn't show all the blocks after being upgraded the same as an 800XL. But then some 600XLs had early OS versions too. I have yet to upgrade one of my 600XLs. I wonder if the 1064 would show up differently.

[joelm]

 

 

XL's show 48 blocks for the 48K not under the 16K OS ROM.

The OS ROM has gone through several changes, and there is a version on the XE's that test 128K (or is it 64 + 48?)

It is interesting that the 600XL doesn't show all the blocks after being upgraded the same as an 800XL. But then some 600XLs had early OS versions too. I have yet to upgrade one of my 600XLs. I wonder if the 1064 would show up differently.

I have no idea, as I said, some of the early 48K software doesn't work but XE carts and later 48K+ software works just fine. In fact, Rescue on Fractalus actually seems to run much better now, despite the fact that Beach Head doesn't recognize the memory upgrade. I suspect the OS is the root of the problem with the memory test but, apparently, the full 64K (or whatever should be available) is capable of being utilized so the computer must be able to address is properly. Regardless, the upgrade seems to be working as good as can be expected.

[JoSch]

Hello check pia chip 6520, when powerup check if the 6520 get very hot.

 

Do you have other 600xl than switch 1 bij 1 the chips.

 

 

Gr.

 

Marco

Hi, was the two 158s, they got bad.

[greblus]

It is probably the case since this is how the 800XL with a 256K Rambo reacts if it isn't allowed to set a few moments after powering off. I would assume that since it is a set of 64x4 chips, they will take longer to clear than the 64x1 chips in a stock 800XL.

 

 

Hi guys.

 

Yesterday I got my first 600XL, PAL version, fully socketed with nice video quality through Composite/SCART and I extended it's memory following Stryker's description (I like the simplicity of it):

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/183694-600xl-64k-upgrade-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=2306578

 

Everything is working well, but I also noticed that I need about 10 seconds for the memory to be cleared. I used TMS4464-10NL memory chips.

Question to electronic experts here: Is there any way to speed-up this slow memory clearing when switching on/off?

 

It's not a big deal as I'll probably install U1MB to this machine soon, but at the same time, there is part of me telling to leave it as is... HiSpeed OS from Hiass would do the job for me.

 

W.

[flashjazzcat]

This seems common with the 600XL. U1MB or Hias' High-Speed OS will help since both provide a software cold reboot facility.

[shoestring]

I did this yesterday to my 600xl. Very simple compared to other methods I've seen.

 

3 wires and bend up some pins. Looks very clean.

 

http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/xl600k64.htm

 

@greblus

 

I have the same TMS DRAM chips. I think it's normal. My Apple //e does the same thing and needs at least 15-30s.

Edited November 6, 2016 by shoestring

[firebottle]

I did this yesterday to my 600xl. Very simple compared to other methods I've seen.

 

3 wires and bend up some pins. Looks very clean.

 

http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/xl600k64.htm

 

That mod is the best... no soldering to the motherboard. Just did it and RAM tested OK.

 

Also, thanks to the following thread for pointing out that 41464 chips work in a 600XL:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/261661-4464-ram-chips-for-atari-600-xl-mod/

[_The Doctor__]

just bought 4 chips at a 1.62 a piece shipped to my door... so for 6.50 total two 600xl's will finally become useful...

[dkerfoot]

Thanks for this. As remarked, simple and clean. I greatly prefer not having to lift any components or solder on the motherboard. I've got good soldering skills and equipment, but with these old boards, there is always a chance of something going wrong. Why risk it unnecessarily?

The pins only need to be bent very slightly, then once the chip is reinserted, you can push the pin flush against the side of the socket. Solder the wires on the top shoulder of the pins. That way it is all very reversible - just desolder the wires, straighten the pins and reinsert the chips. 15 minutes to install, 5 minutes to remove.

Now I am just waiting for my UAV Rev D to arrive so I can make my 600XL truly functional!

I did this yesterday to my 600xl. Very simple compared to other methods I've seen.

3 wires and bend up some pins. Looks very clean.

http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/xl600k64.htm

[+DrVenkman]

Thanks for this. As remarked, simple and clean. I greatly prefer not having to lift any components or solder on the motherboard. I've got good soldering skills and equipment, but with these old boards, there is always a chance of something going wrong. Why risk it unnecessarily?

 

The pins only need to be bent very slightly, then once the chip is reinserted, you can push the pin flush against the side of the socket. Solder the wires on the top shoulder of the pins. That way it is all very reversible - just desolder the wires, straighten the pins and reinsert the chips. 15 minutes to install, 5 minutes to remove.

 

Now I am just waiting for my UAV Rev D to arrive so I can make my 600XL truly functional!

 

 

The UAV does require you to solder some wires to points on the motherboard, at least on my 800XL it did.

[dkerfoot]

The UAV does require you to solder some wires to points on the motherboard, at least on my 800XL it did.

Yes, sorry if I caused any confusion there. I'll be soldering in a new 5 pin DIN and cutting a hole in the case too. I am not reluctant to install nearly any mod, just an admirer of ones that manage to avoid altering the MB.

[shoestring]

There's actually a similar mod I stumbled upon which is even cleaner than the mod I used but I can't seem to find it again.

[chang69]

Hello all,

 

I just registered an account to say thank you to this forum and the people sharing info and picture. As I just successfully converted my Atari600XL into 64KB.

 

Cheers,

 

Chang

[+kheller2]

I'm about to upgrade some 600XL's to 64K and was taking a look at the various methods to do it. I have seen at least 3 different methods. Almost all have a common base in the use of U5/U6 74LS158. However, that's where the similarities end.

One mod takes pin 9 off U18 74LS32 and ties it to pin 45 of the pbi.

One mod removes pin 8-9-10 of U18 and jumpers pins 8 and 10 in the socket.

One mod take pin 89 off the 74LS51 and connects it to the lower lifted side of R36.

 

I think there was another. I haven't actually gone through the circuit layouts to see what each of these are doing, probably all are doing the same thing.

 

Thoughts?

[+kheller2]

Ok.. I answered my own question.

Every upgrade is the same except how they bypass the OR gate in U18 to feed CAS to the RAM chips.

 

Simple enough:

Lift pin 3 of U5 (was GND) and connect to A15

Lift pin 10 of U6 (was GND) and connect to A14

 

Now the multiple ways of feeding CAS from U16 pin 8:

Take pin 8 of U16 and feed it into the lifted R36 (thus bypassing the OR gates of U18)

or

Lift pins 10 and 8 of U18 and short/jumper the socket (Basically feeding U16 pin 8 directly to R36 by completely ignoring the OR gate in U18)

or

Lift pin 9 of U18 and GND it, either to PBI Pin 45 or the much easier, pin 7 of U18 which is already GND. (Since this is an OR, U16 pin 8 which is inbound on U18 pin 10, will always pass through to the output on pin 8 feeding R36)

 

So, simply swap RAM chips, lift one pin on three different chips and connect those pins to A14, A15 and GND respectively.

 

Yeah, yeah... I'm sure you all know this already but it was fun to take a look at the different ways the exact same thing was accomplished.

[RodLightning]

Cool to have the various techniques listed again. As I recall, the upgrade kit I bought via mail-order in the mid 1980s used the lift and jumper method on socket U18. The kit came with two 4464 drams, wires and a little jumper for the socket. I don't remember who made the kit, and I expect that the instruction sheet is long gone. I would love to see it today.

 

I never figured out a self-test quirk on my upgraded 600XL. The memory test displays fewer blocks than a stock 800XL. Otherwise, it functions identically to a 800XL.

[+kheller2]

Looking at the circuits again, but not having looked at a board yet, it might be possible to fashion a small L shaped board that plugged into U5, U6 and U15. U15 would provide A14 and A15 to U5/U6. U15 also has outputs on pin 11 and 13 sent to the OR gate in U18 which is then sent out U18 pin 6 and fed into the OR gate we need to bypass for CAS. Lifting pins 11 and 13 on U15 and tying the socket points to GND should yield the same thing. As long as those outputs aren't routed elsewhere as well.

 

 

But that would make for a very simple fabricated board that you just drop in and add two RAM chips. No soldering or cutting involved. You know.. something that DropCheck could mass produce. LOL

 

I'm not even sure what U15 (B) section is needed for at all then, if all we are doing is ignoring it's OR'd output that went through U18. I'm using Atari's schematics and Sobola's (which are much cleaner) for this analysis.