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The best alcohol purity / cartridge cleaning methods thread.


Ratty

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I've been retrogaming for five or so years, and here's one question that seems to get about as many different answers as there are blades of grass in a field. Some swear by windex which is a terrible idea as most can see, still others use steel wool or something similar to rub away the dirty part of the contacts. Which isn't so much "cleaning" as it is gaming sacrilege and slow contact murder.

Some claim to have a "magic bullet" super secret formula that they sell, probably along with deeds to various bridges. But when it comes to alcohol I had always heard that you should use the highest concentration you can find, but recently saw a suggestion of no more than 70% purity.

So what has worked the best for you? Also do you open up the cartridges for cleaning? If so on what systems?

 

 

 

 

 

EDIT: Should this have gone in the hardware section? Sorry if so, though there are other slightly technical topics here so not sure.

Edited by Ratty
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I use 70% and it gets stuff clean just fine. I have even used it to take sharpie off of game discs, but do so at your own risk - I wasn't certain at the time if I was going to make a coaster, and if I had rubbed too hard I might have. I don't generally open the cartridges, because of the few that I have opened out of curiosity, none have let any dirt or dust inside at all, even if they were outwardly pretty dirty.

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Depends on how dirty the cart is. ones I get that aren't bad I use q-tips and rubbing alcohol (i think its 70%). If its pretty bad I'll use a super soft children tooth brush with rubbing alcohol. If its really nasty and neither of those are doing the trick ill use my variable speed dremel on the lowest setting with a buffing tip and alcohol.

 

And I always open up my carts to clean them that way I can see how bad it is and get them really clean

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De-ox it. Nothing works better. Why not use actual contact cleaner to clean contacts?

 

Yes, this exactly. If you don't want to pay the premium for De-Oxit, any generic "contact cleaner" from the hardware store will work fine. Alcohol is not a particularly good solvent, it's mostly recommended because it's cheap, easy to find, and harmless. An actual contact cleaner will do better.

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Well, I usually use 91% alcohol (from Walgreens) if there is minor cleaning. I do want to caution all against using steel wool, cuz, it's conductive.... esp, with fine steel wool, a tiny little fragment could cause a short. I use ScotchBrite scrub pads, or similar products, and the previously-mentioned Brasso for more dirty carts.

 

Another thought: One of the European 'hi-end' polishes, such a Wenol (said as Venol, BTW) that have anti-tarnish agents in them, might keep contacts cleaner longer.

 

And YES, a true contact cleaner does the best. For the most severe cases, I use a product called Tun-O-Wash (contact + tuner cleaner) This stuff works great, but is really NASTY. I believe sellers are required to send MSDS to all purchasers, even individuals.

In addition, I may use a buffing wheel in one of my Dremel's , or so-called 'mizzy' wheels. Mizzy's are abrasive-impregnated rubber wheels.

 

Only ONE cart of mine ever needed the mizzy treatment. Of all things, my Doom64 cart!

:P

Edited by marcfrick2112
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What about acetone? We used it to dissolve non-polar substances in organic chemistry all the time.

 

Acetone is aprotic but still polar. You don't want that stuff near cases made polystyrene or any other plastics along those lines. I think PCBs should survive acetone just fine, though. If you really want to dissolve non-polar stuff I recommend diethyl ether for contacts and tolulene for lab use. :)

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