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boxpressed

Thoughts on bad Colecovision controllers

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I'm finding that it's pretty rare to come across a used, fully-functioning CV controller anymore. Usually, one or both of the fire buttons doesn't works, or works intermittently. I suspect this is caused by oxidation on the contacts. I also thought oxidation was what caused the joystick not to register in one or more of the four directions.

 

p1020151f.jpg

 

However, after opening up a few that had the joystick problem, I noticed that when I pressed down on the four tabs above the four metal shields, the movement registered smoothly in all four directions. This got me wondering whether oxidized contacts were really to blame. A few theories:

 

1. Over time, the flat disc on the joystick knob (not shown) makes poorer contact with the translucent ring (above), causing directional movement to register sporadically or not at all. I have no idea why this would happen, but a fix would be to stick something onto the disc so that it makes better contact with the translucent ring.

2. When the joystick is moved, the disc is supposed to make contact with the thick part of the translucent ring, and the "joint" between the ring and the tabs touching the metal weakens over time. This would explain why some new old controllers still work.

3. The disc is still making contact with the ring, but contact oxidation requires firmer contact (explaining why it works when I press down on the tabs).

 

Maybe a combination. I'd love the problem to be poor contact between the joystick disc and the translucent ring, but I'm not sure. Any thought appreciated.

Edited by boxpressed

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I trust your expertise, Todd. So, you think that #3 is the reason (since the contacts work when I press on the tab with my finger).

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Well, I was overthinking it with #1 and #2. #3 is the reason.

 

And here's how I fixed it: I took a small piece of ultra-fine sandpaper (1000 grit), folded the piece in half to make it thicker, and slid it underneath each of the four metal shields (between the shields and the contact, which you can't really see without removing the shield). I moved it around, trying to "scrape" off any oxidation with the sandpaper. I sprayed some contact cleaner in there for good measure, and the controller works perfectly now. I fixed a pair in about ten minutes.

 

If you've got a CV controller with directional problems, try this cheap fix first. I bet it will work for you.

Edited by boxpressed

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Well, I was overthinking it with #1 and #2. #3 is the reason.

 

And here's how I fixed it: I took a small piece of ultra-fine sandpaper (1000 grit), folded the piece in half to make it thicker, and slid it underneath each of the four metal shields (between the shields and the contact, which you can't really see without removing the shield). I moved it around, trying to "scrape" off any oxidation with the sandpaper. I sprayed some contact cleaner in there for good measure, and the controller works perfectly now. I fixed a pair in about ten minutes.

 

If you've got a CV controller with directional problems, try this cheap fix first. I bet it will work for you.

 

Thanks a lot for the info.

I will try this for sure.

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See this post on the CV DIY thread: http://www.atariage....ost__p__2021176

Don't sand the chrome plated rectangular domes, unless you've been playing your ColecoVision in the ocean.

 

Am I calling "metal shields" what you called "chrome plated rectangular domes?" If so, then it's possible that my method would make some contact with the bottom of the shield/dome, although it may not be significant enough to be what would be called "sanding" them. It seems like the sandpaper is making the best contact with the, well, contacts (and not the shield/dome). This quick fix would only be good if you're not sanding the bottom of the shield/dome. Of course, desoldering the shield/dome would begin the best course of action.

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See this post on the CV DIY thread: http://www.atariage....ost__p__2021176

Don't sand the chrome plated rectangular domes, unless you've been playing your ColecoVision in the ocean.

 

Am I calling "metal shields" what you called "chrome plated rectangular domes?" If so, then it's possible that my method would make some contact with the bottom of the shield/dome, although it may not be significant enough to be what would be called "sanding" them. It seems like the sandpaper is making the best contact with the, well, contacts (and not the shield/dome). This quick fix would only be good if you're not sanding the bottom of the shield/dome. Of course, desoldering the shield/dome would begin the best course of action.

 

Sand, repair, whatever the PCB side. If I recall correctly, there's a metal or solder ring that can become oxidized or dirty.

 

Don't sand the rectangular metal part that sits on top. It's probably as shiny and new and good on the bottom (the contact side) as the top (the side you can see in the picture in the first post here). You can desolder the rectangles from the PCB, and you'll see how good it looks. However, according to the link I posted, Yurkie has seen some (not sure what percentage) that have cracks in them (not sure how bad that would make the switch, though).

 

So, if you're putting sandpaper in the middle of the contact (instead of desoldering the contact), make sure the sandpaper is one sided and facing towards the PCB (not the rectangular "dome").

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So, if you're putting sandpaper in the middle of the contact (instead of desoldering the contact), make sure the sandpaper is one sided and facing towards the PCB (not the rectangular "dome").

 

Right. This would be the best solution for the soldering-challenged like me.

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