Related topic: best way to clean the NES connector?

[atarilovesyou]

I really don't like how these replacement connector pins for the NES work, and I'm going to try cleaning the original part. I've read a bunch of posts but most deal with the carts, not the connector.

 

What would you suggest?...some contact cleaner spray? I'm wondering how to get in there to put some pressure on the pins without damaging them, but also ensuring no remaining residue is left.

 

Since there's plastic and metal, I guess a soak in contact cleaner might damage the plastic...any tips?

[Jordiway]

some people have boiled them

 

http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=7&threadid=63483

[FABombjoy]

That plastic is pretty tough. I have a multi-part cleaning process that I use, including a heated ultrasonic cleaning in a respirator-worthy chemical bath, and the plastic holds up just fine.

[Rex Dart]

I just re-bent the pins so they press harder against the carts again. Works fine. I probably cleaned the pins while I had the connector out, but nothing more exotic than a pencil eraser or rubbing alcohol on q-tips.

[genesisguy]

Tooth brush soaked in rubbing alcohol. Then once they are cleaned you'll probably have to rebend them slightly. I wrecked my first pic connector by over bending them. Once you get it down it's an art. I can make NES pin connectors fire up almost as good as Top Loaders.

[atarilovesyou]

The boiling trick seems cool but...I'm certain that metal and water don't mix. I would think this process would make em' corrode, if not right away, and rust. I was thinking of some kind of contact cleaning spray (or liquid bath) and then some brushing of the pins...I don't think I'll bother with the tightening of the pins, but what's the key to it?...just don't bend too far?

 

For some reason my 'new' replacement pin connector will not work if I press the game ALL the way in...I gotta insert, then, 'slightly' wiggle back...then, it fires up everytime. But not if you press down.

 

I just want my old Nintendo back, lol!

[FABombjoy]

As long as the OEM pin connector hasn't been damaged, scratched, etc, boiling should be harmless. OEM connector plating doesn't react with water / oxygen. Boiling would be a similar strategy to the ultrasonic cleaning that I mentioned above. Just shake it out and let it dry once done.

 

A properly cleaned OEM connector will perform flawlessly with no bending necessary. I don't really believe that the pins bend or become loose over time in normal use, only that the standard cleaning methods aren't optimal. Overbending the pins compensates by increasing contact pressure, but also increases the possibility of additional wear on the contact surfaces. I've searched for evidence where someone has taken measurements from an unused connector -vs- a non-functioning connector but I can't find any.

 

So many OEM connectors have been bent, sanded, etc., that each connector must be inspected before cleaning to ensure that is hasn't been damaged. Once upon a time I advocated the sanding method, but once I really analyzed the connector I realized that this is a horrible, horrible idea.

 

As an example of how well a cleaned OEM connector works, part of the tests that I put a refurbed NES through include unlatching and relatching the cart holder while a game is active; clean OEM connectors won't crash or have corrupted graphics, even while partially raising & lowering the cartridge (you can't fully unlatch or the cart will no longer contact the pins).

 

The original NES cleaning kit is the best and not terrible difficult to find. Since it's design allows cleaning while fully latched, it actually does a good job of cleaning the contact surfaces on both rows of pins.

[Spoon]

I'm not a huge fan of buying kits for stuff, so I just go over the connectors gently with a fine wire brush. Need to do it about once a year, sometimes twice, but I haven't replaced the original connector yet, either.

[Jordiway]

I agree about not bending the pins the only little extra thing that I do when cleaning or replacing the 72 pin connector is stretch the springs just a little bit. The only reason the pins get dirty is because people dont clean their games.

[atarilovesyou]

Which begs the question: how frequently should you clean your games? Funny thing is, I always kept my games in their sleeves back in the day, owned my system for over five years and never got a blinking screen or any glitches. My current lot of games have been cleaned in the last two years, and all of them look shiny. As long as they look shiny, they're usually good to go. My worry is dirtying up the connector by games that have NEVER been cleaned. I understand oxidation happens slowly, but I think as long as you return the games to the sleeve it should keep dust off em, which is a big culprit.

[atarilovesyou]

One last thing: will spray contact cleaner DAMAGE the plastic on the connector?...I've read online that some sprays can damage plastic. The can says nothing in the intructions due to ...lack of instructions!

 

I'm going to do the boil trick and my intention is to spray the cleaner in afterwards.

 

Thoughts?

[Austin]

On top of cleaning the pins themselves, I prefer to file down the teeth between the pins on the connector.

[atarilovesyou]

SING THE PRAISES OF BOILING!...cleaned the system up (as good as it should look, this is my everyday NES), boiled the connector, contact cleaner sprayed it (plus the pins on the board) and...

 

POOF, like a dragon that goes POOF, I fired it up and EVERY GAME WORKS PERFECTLY, the first time!...ran through about a dozen games, even the previous 'tricky to start ones'...ALL AWESOME, I'm so impressed! I've got the feel back from my original system, no more cheap china-made replacement connectors for me. I think that unless there's something physically wrong with the connector, this might work for a LONG time this way. We'll see!

 

I just wonder how often I'll need to do this procedure, it could be a pain in the ass to do it even annually, but it sure is nice to have this NES working as good as the day it was bought all those years ago! I highly recommend the boiling method. I think I'll do the old cleaning kit to keep it up to snuff, but once every few years, a quick boil and I'm back in action.

[Prodos8]

I've used toothbrush with toothpaste on mine before and then boiled it. So not really sure which method got it working.

[Austin]

I just wonder how often I'll need to do this procedure, it could be a pain in the ass to do it even annually, but it sure is nice to have this NES working as good as the day it was bought all those years ago! I highly recommend the boiling method. I think I'll do the old cleaning kit to keep it up to snuff, but once every few years, a quick boil and I'm back in action.

 

Make sure you clean every cartridge you have. Ensure that no more dirt and grime is going back onto the system contacts, and it should last a long, long time.

[Jordiway]

SING THE PRAISES OF BOILING!...cleaned the system up (as good as it should look, this is my everyday NES), boiled the connector, contact cleaner sprayed it (plus the pins on the board) and...

 

POOF, like a dragon that goes POOF, I fired it up and EVERY GAME WORKS PERFECTLY, the first time!...ran through about a dozen games, even the previous 'tricky to start ones'...ALL AWESOME, I'm so impressed! I've got the feel back from my original system, no more cheap china-made replacement connectors for me. I think that unless there's something physically wrong with the connector, this might work for a LONG time this way. We'll see!

 

I just wonder how often I'll need to do this procedure, it could be a pain in the ass to do it even annually, but it sure is nice to have this NES working as good as the day it was bought all those years ago! I highly recommend the boiling method. I think I'll do the old cleaning kit to keep it up to snuff, but once every few years, a quick boil and I'm back in action.

 

Glad it worked out for you!

[CGQuarterly]

I'd never read about the boiling procedure. Makes sense, though. I think it's important to put some kind of contact conditioner on it afterwards though, like DeOxit Gold.

 

Chris

[atarilovesyou]

DeOxit Gold, hmmm?...I think I'll try it next time. Anything to help keep the buildup from occurring.

 

I did have Punchout glitch during a match, but it occurred early and that's the only game so far that's had an (albeit minor) issue.

 

I'm still wary about how long this will last. Water and metal doesn't mix, right?...perhaps the boiling causes some changes deep in the metal pins, setting up future corrosion (real corrosion, not just oxidization). I guess I'll find out, but right now I'm still thrilled about the results so far!

[Asaki]

Hmm. I'm almost tempted to try this.

[atarilovesyou]

When I say it's working just like new, I mean JUST LIKE NEW, lol!...and it was quite easy to do. Just follow buddy's steps up there and you're set. I actually boiled it a bit longer than usual because I forgot the step of inserting an old cart into the connector mid-boil...so maybe an extra 5 min or so, but it all worked fine.

[FABombjoy]

I'm still wary about how long this will last. Water and metal doesn't mix, right?...perhaps the boiling causes some changes deep in the metal pins

 

I don't know what the base metal is, but the platings don't oxidize under normal environmental conditions... Like how the change in your pocket isn't corroded / rusty.

 

The price of DeOxit combined with all of the woo-factor on their website really puts me off. I'm sure it's fine for what it does, but if you read their literature it's geared around extreme conditions, high-vibration environments, etc. Again, under normal conditions, gold / nickel / tin platings don't oxidize, so it isn't really "oxidation" that harms connections so much as "dust-and-crud-itation". As long as your pin / game cleaning strategies are non-destructive to the factory gold platings - no sandpaper, no erasers, no polishes - you'll have better long term results. Oily films left behind by contact cleaners typically just attract more dust.

 

Not all connectors / games are gold plated, but most are. Some are copper or nickel/tin (I can't distinguish them by sight). Copper is the most susceptible to oxidation but you can clean it with a vinegar & salt solution. I only use spray contact cleaners when accessibility / repair is difficult, like in outdoor or automotive applications. In those cases, where a connector is in place for prolonged periods of time, there is a possible advantage to having a protective film as it helps maintain a water/oxygen free contact space.

[atarilovesyou]

More questions...

 

Nope, that last post just answered em, thanks!

Edited February 13, 2012 by atarilovesyou

[icemanxp300]

I skipped to the end but I would never clean an nes controller any more maybe it's because I have a bilion and they are only worth like $3 each. If you need some I can sell you them Spend the hour cleaning doing something else lol.

[atarilovesyou]

I skipped to the end but I would never clean an nes controller any more maybe it's because I have a bilion and they are only worth like $3 each. If you need some I can sell you them Spend the hour cleaning doing something else lol.

 

LOL, I hear ya, but those generics sticks and connectors, IMO, are just not the same. I'd rather reconstruct than replace at this point. I currently thinking about picking up those 'replacement guts' for NES joypads if only because those orginal pads wear out so badly that it affects gameplay.

[icemanxp300]

I have a billion authentic pads, not generic. I mainly collect nes and buy bulk for that system and end up w/so much stuff I practically give it away lol.