power led or new power switch

[+grips03]

Here's a pic, but the damn thing is sideways.. Grr:-*

 

notice how there is a trace between some holes on the CV PCB. This is why either hole can be used. So really its just 4 holes.

 

Resistors do not have a direction to them, i.e. just put it in series with the led.

 

The led is two center pins on the switch, L+ and L-. Reference datasheet for more help

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=LB26RKW01-6G-JB&vendor=360

 

you might want to have someone do this if your not comfortable.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Yes, that's what I was saying, 4 out of the 6 are going to be used. Your right about the led tabs, I see the + and - now. It's also COM on side and N.C. On the other. (common and normally closed). I should say I'm confused what goes on the Com side and the NC side. I wish there was a pinout of the switch with edits showing the wire hookup. I'm not going to let a stupid switch stump me on this project, maybe I'm over thinking everything.. I dunno. I got 45 bucks in parts alone, I definitely can't afford to send it off. I'm sure I can do this, just need a little more specific details. That's all..

How are you labeling your switch, pin wise? Yes the led is the middle two but what about the other 6, 3 on each side of eachother?

 

0 0 0

. 0 0

0 0 0

Edited January 20, 2014 by SiLic0ne t0aD85

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Got the LED working, soldered resistor to +tab and a wire to the - tab, tested it out with a 9V battery. Now to figure out the rest..

Edited January 20, 2014 by SiLic0ne t0aD85

[+grips03]

Yes, that's what I was saying, 4 out of the 6 are going to be used. Your right about the led tabs, I see the + and - now. It's also COM on side and N.C. On the other. (common and normally closed). I should say I'm confused what goes on the Com side and the NC side. I wish there was a pinout of the switch with edits showing the wire hookup. I'm not going to let a stupid switch stump me on this project, maybe I'm over thinking everything.. I dunno. I got 45 bucks in parts alone, I definitely can't afford to send it off. I'm sure I can do this, just need a little more specific details. That's all..

How are you labeling your switch, pin wise? Yes the led is the middle two but what about the other 6, 3 on each side of eachother?

 

0 0 0

. 0 0

0 0 0

 

I used the data sheet for the switch. The pin numbers in the photo I mocked up match those of the switch's data sheet. I thought you would have noticed.

 

Common goes to one side of the switch and normally open to the other.

 

There are two switches in the switch housing as its a DPDT switch. Please do not cross them.

Edited January 20, 2014 by grips03

[+grips03]

Got the LED working, soldered resistor to +tab and a wire to the - tab, tested it out with a 9V battery. Now to figure out the rest..

 

its best not to use 9v battery to test 3.6v led, it may burn out.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Yes I'm aware, thanks. Crossing the +5 volts side with the 12 volt rail wouldn't be good for anyone's board. As far as the 9v battery, you're absolutely right! Not a good idea but I only tested it for a few seconds to snap the pic that's all.

Keep em coming guys, does anybody else have anything to contribute here? I would love to see more pictures/gut shots, etc.. I was trying to make this a fool proof tutorial. Thanks

[+grips03]

picture of NKK switches with AMP UP connectors

 

 

[+grips03]

picture of NKK switches with AMP UP connectors - warning 4MB file

Edited February 2, 2014 by grips03

[ArcadeJunkie]

anyone interested in doing a step-by-step writeup for the NKK power/reset switch mod?

Edited June 26, 2014 by ArcadeJunkie

[+grips03]

I used my guide here to wire up some new NKK switches for a Colecovision. Instructions are perfect, perhaps lack a little detail. Anyway I wanted to point out that adding the 100ohm series resistor to the +5v led line is needed. If you don't do this the led (button) will glow more pink and less red when turned on.

[+grips03]

Did another NKK power switch upgrade this past weekend. Thought these photos might help.

 

First photo shows the +12V and +5V and the six pads on the Colecovision system board, where the power switch was.

 

I put a black line showing how the switch closes when console is turned on.

 

You can see left (+12v) middle and bottom pads (12a and 12b) are already connected via trace on bottom of system board.

Same with right (+5v) middle and bottom pads (5a and 5b).

 

NKK switch on the left is one normally open switch.

NKK switch on right is the second normally open switch.

 

Its says N.O. right on the switch. Don't use the N.C. contract as that is normally closed.

 

In the middle is the LED power connector, L+ and L-. You can see I added 150ohm resistor there. Wire L- to ground. Wire L+ to the non-powered side of the 5V switch, 5c in the picture. Its easier to wire it on the switch side.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

You can never have too many pictures, that's for sure. thanks for sharing, maybe it'll help out someone else who wants to try this mod. You helped me out big time when I upgraded one of my CV's a couple years ago.

 

I need to do up another console like that.. I still have a couple extra NKK switches from back then, when I ordered parts for the first one. On that particular console though, I took it a step farther and added a pause switch, along with a custom top sticker. Guess I got a little inspiration from doubledown on that.

 

[+grips03]

The white frame is neat. I was thinking someone would make a prototype inspired console and sticker some day.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

The white frame is neat. I was thinking someone would make a prototype inspired console and sticker some day.

 

Thanks! That was the idea actually, but I never did finish it 100% and kinda moved on to other projects. I might take that back off and paint it metallic silver and permanently attach the front label one of these days.. It's just attached with double-sided tape right now. It looked nice when I first completed it but it's been a while and the label is peeling up a bit, but it's my daily driver at the moment. It would be cool to try to make one like one of the two different prototypes everybody's seen pictures of.. The one with sideways switches would really be a challenge though.