power led or new power switch

[+grips03]

I've been thinking about adding a power led to the CV or a new illuminated power switch. Any recommendations?

[cOLeCoHiTMan]

I'd talk to Yurkie... there must be a reason he really hasn't considered adding an LED as a mod.

[+grips03]

5v is there, so a led and resistor should do it. I was just thinking if there was a 1 inch (25mm) x 5/8 (16mm) led illuminated DPDT (or DPST) switch it might look cleaner.

Edited August 3, 2012 by grips03

[NIAD]

DoubleDown offered a replacement/lighted power button and reset botton, but he never shared where he acquired his items or the product #s. Here are the pics...

[+grips03]

niad, thanks for the pics. I saw that old thread, but as you indicate no part numbers .

[misspent_youth]

I am pretty sure that the parts DoubleDown used were DigiKey parts. I actually took the trouble to look them up, but since then have had the computer that I used back then give up the ghost. There is a backup of that PC somewhere, so I'll try to find it and post the part numbers.

[+grips03]

That would be great.

 

I see some NKKs at Digikey that are:

 

Cutout for 1 switch:

.638” x .882” (16.2mm x 22.4mm)

 

Cutout for 1 switch with barriers:

.638” x 1.059” (16.2mm x 26.9mm)

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LB25RKW01-5F-JF/360-2043-ND/1007100

 

I'm thinking these might have been the ones used.

[+grips03]

LB25RKW01-5D24-JD, these NKKs have the dust covers too So I'm thinking they are it

[Yurkie]

Be very careful concerning the amout of current (amperage) used by LEDs or lighted switches. You will likely excede the amp rating on the power supply, especially with more that one.

 

I personally think the lighted switches look out of place and won't install them. If someone really feels they need it, I will install a power on LED.

[RedRaider]

Be very careful concerning the amout of current (amperage) used by LEDs or lighted switches. You will likely excede the amp rating on the power supply, especially with more that one.

 

I personally think the lighted switches look out of place and won't install them. If someone really feels they need it, I will install a power on LED.

 

Oh man, just might have to pack my YurkieVision up so it can get a little RED LED loving' ???

 

Thinking centered between the power switch and mod-switch...

 

 

[SlowCoder]

@Yurkie, are the consoles running so close to the capacity of the power supply, that the addition of a single 30mah LED would exceed it? I don't have the specs in front of me.

 

Be very careful concerning the amout of current (amperage) used by LEDs or lighted switches. You will likely excede the amp rating on the power supply, especially with more that one.

 

I personally think the lighted switches look out of place and won't install them. If someone really feels they need it, I will install a power on LED.

 

Oh man, just might have to pack my YurkieVision up so it can get a little RED LED loving' ???

No, I'm sure you could do it yourself.

[RedRaider]

I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

 

The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

[SlowCoder]

I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

 

The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

I believe that would be a max draw for them. Putting a 1K resistor behind it would bring it down quite a bit.

[RedRaider]

I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

 

The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

I believe that would be a max draw for them. Putting a 1K resistor behind it would bring it down quite a bit.

 

Well this idea was squashed quickly then...

[SlowCoder]

I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

 

The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

I believe that would be a max draw for them. Putting a 1K resistor behind it would bring it down quite a bit.

 

Well this idea was squashed quickly then...

??? I think you misunderstood. The 1K resistor would decrease the amount of draw through the LED, but not necessarily the amount of light emitted.

[NIAD]

There always the Power Light that will be included on Opcode's SGM if you can wait for it's release.

[hardhat]

An LED with a 1k resistor on the 5V line shouldn't be an issue. I'm not sure what the specs are for the illuminated power switches you showed above but the ones I've been buying for work projects require 110V to self-illuminate (and so don't light with the 12V supply), so read the digikey datasheet carefully, to make sure you are getting the right one.

[+grips03]

a 160hm resistor in series off the the +5V line should be fine. Power draw would be that of the total load as its in series, so led + resistor. The switches I looked at are led based and some have the resistor built in. The switches Double Down appears to have ordered are all not in stock at Digikey, but they are orderable, so just have to wait longer.

[NIAD]

I recall DoubleDown mentioning that the replacement switches (lighted and unlighted) that he finally tracked down were the exact perfect size for the factory cut out openings. So, hopefully you will get lucky with your first selection and not have to order again or mod the case in any way. Good Luck.

[retroillucid]

There always the Power Light that will be included on Opcode's SGM if you can wait for it's release.

 

I was going to get my system modded with Power Light until I saw that the SGM feature a light

 

As when I will get my hands on the SGM, it will be always plug in so there's no real need now to get my system modded with power light anymore..

Edited August 20, 2012 by retroillucid

[+grips03]

I tried all different options but ending up liking the clear / white NKK switches the best. I used a slightly different filler, as the switch is a little too short front to back. Filler plate goes in the rear of the switch to fill the CV power / reset opening. The flat filler in the pics above is kind of rubbery vs. hard plastic and just doesn't look right, hence I didn't use them. Both switches look the same, but only the power switch lights up when on.

 

I used AMP UP connectors instead of the quick connect below and soldered / heat shrinked directly to the switch as these connectors are not as secure. If you don't have AMP UP connectors you might want to use the NKK switch connector below as they allow for a quick disconnect from the bottom of the switch, which is good in order to seperate the CV's top from the bottom.

 

qty 2 - AT497 (filler plate)

 

qty 2- AT712 (switch quick connect for bottom of switch)

 

qty 1 LB15RKW01-JB (reset button clear with white)

 

qty 1 LB26RKW01-5C-JB (power switch, button is clear with white, but turns red when on) - push on/off

 

qty 1 100ohm 1/4 watt resistor to connect to +5v source to drop voltage for red LED for power switch

 

pics:

 

http://[email protected]/8005163824

 

http://[email protected]/8005161677

 

total cost is around $50

 

 

**if you like blue better, but Ithink the SGM will have red led, so different colors might be strange.

qty 1 LB26RKW01-6G-JB (power button like above but with blue led)

Edited September 20, 2012 by grips03

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Sorry to dig up another old thread but I just wanted to say thanks for clearing up this riddle behind this.. I've been searching for these for a while but couldn't find the perfect one. I can't wait to install these in mine! Now if I could just find the multicolor led mod I'll be set.

[+grips03]

added to assist wiring in power switch - use at your own risk

 

pin numbers used are for:

NKK LB26RKW01-5C-JB

 

Please note this is a picture of bottom on the board, not the top!!!!!!

Edited January 20, 2014 by grips03

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Thanks for the pic grips03, it's a little hard to read but think I can make it out. I noticed the bottom 2 holes out of the 6 total are not used. So 4 out the 6 are used to wire up this switch. There's no specific pin on the bottom of the switch for the led that I know of, it's part of the switch, built inside. I'm not sure if the resistor that needs to be added polarity wise, one end or the other. My 1/4 watt 100 ohm resistor reads gold, brown, black, brown. Not sure which end to put in the +5 volt hole.

 

Parts in this picture : (NKK brand switch parts/accessories)

 

1: LB26RKW01-6G-JB Pushbutton Dpdt blue led switch

1: AT712 Switch accessories Adapter (quick connect)

1: AT497 Switch accessories End Barrier (filler plate, will up grade to rubber filler piece and dust boots)

1: 100 ohm resistor, 1/4 watt, 5 tolerance - Radio Shack page. Of 5 (part# 271-1311)

4: pre-tinned wires White, Red, Blue and Black (colors don't matter, I stuck with the stock CV colors) cut to. 8" (this can trimmed down later)

 

I have not installed this yet! I am working on it as we speak and have some uncertainties on a couple things. Once straightened out I will do this and definitely post pics of the final product. I wish there was pictures of this installed, gut shots. Pictures speak a thousand words folks! Cheers, more to come..

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Here's a pic, but the damn thing is sideways.. Grr:-*

Edited January 20, 2014 by SiLic0ne t0aD85