Frankie Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 When I first tested the keyboard after I received the 1200 most of the keys didn't work. Just a couple after your pressed them a few times. I read through this page - http://www.retrobits.../keyboard.shtml but I'm not sure how I should proceed. I removed the keyboard and when I press the membrane all the keys work. I didn't know if I should still attempt at peeling it back and looking at the traces. It's almost like the springs in the keyboard itself are too weak. Can anyone recommend my next step? Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Try to loosen the screws a little. This helped me several times with a 600XL and 800XL keyboard. If the technique is the same ofcourse. But I don't own a 1200XL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 The 1200XL keyboard has one particular failure mode: The plastic contact sheet has a row of contacts that are pressed against the circuit board when the unit is assembled. Eventually, this part of the sheet fails and must be repaired with some sort of conductive paint. They did this to avoid having to make a plug-in connector for the sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 A bad 1200XL keyboard almost always requires you to 'peel' the mylar off the PCB. Some people have reported good results with clamping the 'connector' (the interface to the PCB from the mylar) in place and just cleaning the contact surface of the PCB with alcohol. Whatever... Regardless, it is a matter of contact resistance either at the keypad or the connector, or both. You do not need stronger springs. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanr256 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) This is what I did: http://www.atariage....y/#entry2662913 I was very careful removing the mylar/silicone. I went real slow and didn't rush. It took a while but I was able to separate the membrane from the circuit board. Once it was apart, I cleaned the contacts and redrew the traces with the CircuitWriter pen. Works like new. -Bob Edited January 4, 2013 by ryanr256 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 I found careful use of a pink eraser on the gold and "black dot" contacts made everything work. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizWor Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 what about the keys that do not come up all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Check out this post in the Tips and Tricks sticky post. http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/104583-tipstricksproducts-used-in-restoration/#entry1268741 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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