XBOX to JAMMA converter: Has anyone tried it?

[Austin]

Since I have an arcade cabinet again that is JAMMA compatible, I had contemplated the idea of trying out this device. Has anyone given it a shot? Since my XBOX is modded and it emulates most of the games I want pretty much perfectly, this would be a great alternative to building an expensive JAMMA board collection.

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 170892476421

[number six]

I bought one of these years ago so not sure if its the same one that's floating around now.

 

Worked OK, if memory serves you have to disable some of the pins on the jamma edge connector of the device for it to work properly.. was kinda odd. Hopefully they resolved that in later revisions.

 

Otherwise was as described. This was probably 5 years ago so best you could do was the old X-Mame or Daphne or something like XBOX Soul Calibur. With Coin-ops out it's definitely worth re-visiting. I still have mine sitting in a box and plan on rigging something up in the near future as an XBOX based mame would be cheap to do.

[mikeosoft]

hey i had purchased this unit almost a year ago. I needed to rewire it to make it work, as the chinese's definition of "jamma" is not jamma.

 

Anyways here's a cut and paste:

 

 

 

First i traced the Y,White,Black,LT for player 1 and player 2 back to the base of the shift resistor, where there was a place to solder to:

 

I made sure to cut the traces with a razor blade for the last 2 edge connectors, so i could rewire them to jamma.

 

I found a ground area and scratched away the protective surface coating to test for ground which it had. I dabbed some flux and soldered across to bridge the connectors. I used short wire where I couldn't get the solder to jump.

 

 

I made sure to twist all wires around the post hole to alleviate the pressure from pulling out the connector.

 

To get the ground from pins 1 and 2 over to pin 27 and 28, i used one of those yellow jumper wires i had lying around:

 

I am at the point where I have my cyberlead wired up for CPS2 6 button, Lkick Mkick, Hkick.

 

So I decided that i'd follow the chinese' lead, and wire the buttons like this: auxiliary wiring for LT for p1 and p2 not used (sitting off to the side not connected), LK = Y, MK = White button, HK = Black button

 

I will continue to tweak these button mappings, but thanks to coinops, i think i can remap them through software...

 

 

Some more pics:

Edited January 18, 2013 by mikeosoft

[Austin]

Very cool! Seeing as there are multiple types of converters out there, I wonder if any of them are set up correctly and will work without needing to do any soldering? I'll have to dig into it further.