Article on Replacing or Fixing ColecoVision Power Switch

[boxpressed]

Here's a blog article I recently ran across that details how to replace or fix your ColecoVision's power switch. As many of us know, dirty or failing power switches cause a host of problems with the ColecoVision. I haven't done this mod and can't vouch for the article, but it looks pretty reliable to me. Perhaps others who know better can comment on it. I'd especially like to know if this is an "easy" mod for someone who is just starting out with soldering.

 

http://callanbrown.c...tch-fix-upgrade

 

I also added a post to the ColecoVision and Adam Information thread about this article, but I thought that a new thread would be better for discussion of it.

[digress]

I have done this exact mod using this exact article and the exact switches in 3 colecovisions. It completely fixes the problem and I have no more problems with speghetti graphics or weird colours. Recommended.

 

Gerry

Edited January 16, 2013 by digress

[+grips03]

Switch mod is easy if you take your time and are happy with the switch you want to use and look at. I tend to clip the legs off anything I'm going to desolder, so the parts gets out of the way and provides access to the legs of the switch, which I remove next with iron and tweezer nose pliers. Then I finally remove the solder from the hole with fresh solder wick. Always be careful of old PCB pads, don't rub them with the soldering iron, let the heat and the wick do its job. Then just solder in the new leads.

 

I added AMP UP (Universal Power) connectors (the type used in Sega and other Candy cabinets) to the wires between the PCB and the switch, so the top and bottom of the CV can be separated. I also use heat shrink tubing (just heat with lighter) on all exposed leads that are not on a PCB, such as the new switches legs.

 

If you like the switches I used just search for "power switch" in CV forum and you will find an old thread I posed with the part numbers. The red looks washed out in the picture, but really is not, its quite even and bright.

 

If you ordered a SGM it also has a red led, so perhaps a switch with no led is fine.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20625046@N08/8387535484/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20625046@N08/8387536096/in/photostream

[+Yurkie]

There is no need to replace the power switch. If you dissemble, clean off the old grease. Use Deoxit on the contacts. Lub with some fresh Di-electric grease, the switch will work like brand new...trust me I have done hundreds.

[Richard42]

Just to throw some more information out there. I just replaced a power switch in my main colecovision with a new DPDT switch from Digi-key, and I found one which works very well in the coleco. The DigiKey part # is JWMW22RCA-ND. It fits perfectly in the rectangular hole in the top half of the case; there is no need for any cutting. And it looks great. The only other thing I would recommend getting are 4 narrow female spade lug connectors. You can crimp or solder these onto the wires that you'll solder into the coleco PCB, and press them into the solder tabs on the switch before pressing it into place on the case. Then if you need to disassemble the coleco in the future you can just pull them off of the switch.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

That looks very similar to the switch I use, only mine is all black with the 1 or 0 mark on it to match up with the on and off indicators on the label. The switches I use also have a rubber surround on them so they seal onto the console a bit. If you haven't already, you need to cut about 3 or 4 mm off those side tabs from the top of them. Doing this, you can then pry them away from the switch housing and they will then press up against the top of the case really holding the switch in there.

 

Also the switches I use only cost me like $.50 - $1.00 each depending on if the shop I get them from wants to put them on clearance or not. They usually have several hundred in a box to pull from. I've got about a dozen or so of these left.

 

Here is what the switch looks like when installed from the top:

 

 

 

 

And here it is from under the cover. I use a molex connector I buy separate to attach the two half for disassembly if needed. But you will see how I have the snap tabs on the sides pulled away and snugging up against the top of the case as well.

 

 

 

[+5-11under]

Cleaning pdf here:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/163446-diy-modifications-for-colecovision/?p=2019087

[+evg2000]

That looks very similar to the switch I use, only mine is all black with the 1 or 0 mark on it to match up with the on and off indicators on the label. The switches I use also have a rubber surround on them so they seal onto the console a bit. If you haven't already, you need to cut about 3 or 4 mm off those side tabs from the top of them. Doing this, you can then pry them away from the switch housing and they will then press up against the top of the case really holding the switch in there.

 

Also the switches I use only cost me like $.50 - $1.00 each depending on if the shop I get them from wants to put them on clearance or not. They usually have several hundred in a box to pull from. I've got about a dozen or so of these left.

 

 

Sounds like you are purchasing locally? Any idea where I might get one online cheaply? I did one fix and the switch wasn't a good fit and cost like $8.00