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Free from the CX52!


kensu

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I just finished this, it took quite a while but I got it working. I am finally free of the CX52 joystick!

post-34966-0-81754700-1362809717_thumb.jpg

I was so sick of the mushy buttons on the CX52; when I push the system buttons, it feels good to have them push back!

 

I'll post a schematic later if anyone is interested, though I suspect anyone capable of building one of these already knows how.

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I just finished this, it took quite a while but I got it working. I am finally free of the CX52 joystick!

post-34966-0-81754700-1362809717_thumb.jpg

I was so sick of the mushy buttons on the CX52; when I push the system buttons, it feels good to have them push back!

 

I'll post a schematic later if anyone is interested, though I suspect anyone capable of building one of these already knows how.

 

Looks good, Sounds like you need to upgrade your mushy buttons

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Isn't that Gravis a digital pad? You lose analog.

post-34966-0-42704600-1362855452_thumb.jpg

 

This better? :D

I just got this in the mail this morning. I'm not a joystick man, having grown up with digital pads, but I was very impressed. I played excellent games in both Galaxian and Super Breakout with this, and it's very obvious that Atari was onto something with an analog controller, even if they didn't implement it properly. It's really a shame there isn't a thumbstick controller with a gameport connection....

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i too have used the pc gravis pads i find them great as the buttons are recessed and there is a switch to make the pad for right thumb so if you have 2 of them make one normal the other flipped rubberband them together and you can have some cool robotron space dungeon fun

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post-34966-0-49163500-1362976346_thumb.jpg

And in a couple of hours I was able to make a two-buttoned paddle controller without having to destroy a 2600 paddle controller and 5200 controller to do it!

 

This makes an awesome platform for expansions because you only have to contend with 5 pins, and you can use the 15-pin male connectors out of the box without having to bend the jacket back!

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  • 1 month later...

post-34966-0-49163500-1362976346_thumb.jpg

And in a couple of hours I was able to make a two-buttoned paddle controller without having to destroy a 2600 paddle controller and 5200 controller to do it!

 

This makes an awesome platform for expansions because you only have to contend with 5 pins, and you can use the 15-pin male connectors out of the box without having to bend the jacket back!

 

 

great.

so many conversions will use paddles!

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  • 5 months later...

 

great.

so many conversions will use paddles!

 

Is there a list of existing 5200 games that actually work better with modded paddles?

 

I'm assuming Kaboom, Super Breakout, Megamania, etc. I've thought for a long time Space Invaders and Gyruss would work better with paddles [or say a "spinner" like Tempest had in the arcades]...

 

And if someone were to go out and mod a 5200 controller with a 2600 paddle, wouldn't the Indy 500 controller be better since it turned a full 360 degrees?

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i too have used the pc gravis pads i find them great as the buttons are recessed and there is a switch to make the pad for right thumb so if you have 2 of them make one normal the other flipped rubberband them together and you can have some cool robotron space dungeon fun

I have 2 old sticks that move nicely for Space Dungeon. The coupler is the only way I can play.

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I have 2 old sticks that move nicely for Space Dungeon. The coupler is the only way I can play.

 

Do you mean standard 5200 controllers, or modded PC sticks in some sort of coupler? This is the only game I own for the 5200, and I'd like to be able to play it, but the hassle (and cost) of gathering two working controllers is prohibitive.

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I use standard sticks for Space dungeon. If you have controllers with boots, they feel pretty good. I only need the start button for it to work.

 

Finding two working controllers isn't easy. Flex circuits are cheap though, and you can make a working controller. If the boot is intact, the movement of the stick is reasonable most of the time. I like stock controllers for Super Breakout, and a couple of other games. When they work, they are a joy.

 

I've found sticks on eBay cheap. The pots are almost always in good shape. You can move the right hand buttons to the left hand for less mushy feeling. If you have a 5200, it's a labor of love to keep it enjoyable.

 

On other games, I either use my Wico, or my PC to 5200 converter cable. I never got a Masterplay, nor Redemption. I'm pretty happy with what I have.

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Do you mean standard 5200 controllers, or modded PC sticks in some sort of coupler? This is the only game I own for the 5200, and I'd like to be able to play it, but the hassle (and cost) of gathering two working controllers is prohibitive.

 

You know if you have the coupler that you don't use the fire buttons? The coupler allows you to move your ship with the left stick and fire with the right. With the 5200 controllers you have about a 99% chance the fire buttons don't work, but the sticks themselves rarely (if ever) break down. If all you want them for is Space Dungeon, just snag a pair off Ebay listed as "untested". They sometimes end for less than $15 bucks a pair, and though you KNOW the fire buttons will be doa the controller itself will almost certainly work fine.

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You know if you have the coupler that you don't use the fire buttons? The coupler allows you to move your ship with the left stick and fire with the right. With the 5200 controllers you have about a 99% chance the fire buttons don't work, but the sticks themselves rarely (if ever) break down. If all you want them for is Space Dungeon, just snag a pair off Ebay listed as "untested". They sometimes end for less than $15 bucks a pair, and though you KNOW the fire buttons will be doa the controller itself will almost certainly work fine.

 

Oh yeah, I know. But I still need to be able to start a game.

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Oh yeah, I know. But I still need to be able to start a game.

 

Pushy aren't we? :-D

Yuo can easily pop off the cover over the start/pause/reset buttons, and lift up the flex circuit. Rub the contact with a pencil eraser and it'll work for a long time. Or take a small round piece of tin foil and super-glue it to the back of the actual button (you'll see a small, round, off black contact underneath glue it to that), and they'll work forever.

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