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Restoring an original Centuri Phoenix cocktail


Godzilla

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Ah TOEI... I'm a bit love/hate with these monitors. My Lunar Rescue has one. It's very difficult to find parts outside of Japan. You can find cap kits, sure, but a flyback transformer? Tricky.

 

I would try the www.arcade-museum.com forums or contact Andy from http://www.andysarcade.com

 

Hope you get it fixed! Phoenix is a real favorite of mine. My girlfriend and I own the upright. She loves it more than I do!

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email sent! thanks for the tip!

 

It's a toei cm-a14. Dead 2431781 Hitachi Flyback

 

Are there no modern replacements/workarounds/rebuilds/etc?

You've got all the good questions! I'm not much of a tech myself, but I can see how a Hitachi would be hard to find. If I remember right, TOEI and Hitachi were business partners for cocktails like this. You can see their equipment in Taito cocktails for instance. Phoenix was a Taito game after all, so Centuri tried to maintain some similar parts and equipment.

 

The UK and Australia had much better distribution of this style of cocktail arcade games. If you search for Taito cocktail arcade machines on Google, you will find a small number of forums that have entire threads dedicated to repair and modification of Japanese cocktails. A few key words can be very helpful. You might even be able to contact these guys.

 

I showed you Andy's website since he's very experienced with arcade repair and loves these cocktail games. He would offer more help than I can!

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Another query: i have enough working vintage computer monitors to build a small igloo. Are there any of them that i can use? 1k+ color impedance. Any? 13"... 15khz, 60hz... C= moniotrs have all except they have 75 ohms not 1k+....

I don't see why not as long as it can accept the signals from the PCB. I've heard that some of the more versatile Commodore monitors can work with cocktails with a bit of hacking.

 

I think you have to split the RGB signal from the PCB with certain monitors. Andy has a killer testing rig for classic arcade boards. It's possible that a Sony PVM would work for testing too.

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the guy working on my cocktail doesn't want to use anything less than an 'arcade monitor' (Because he gets the 'museum piece' nature I'm going for,) I do want it to be as authentic as possible. He said the C= monitors have 75ohms color impedance and the arcades are 1k+ (I don't know what any of that means,) so I'm trying to find out if there were any vintage era monitors that might be usable, since I have so many...

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the guy working on my cocktail doesn't want to use anything less than an 'arcade monitor' (Because he gets the 'museum piece' nature I'm going for,) I do want it to be as authentic as possible. He said the C= monitors have 75ohms color impedance and the arcades are 1k+ (I don't know what any of that means,) so I'm trying to find out if there were any vintage era monitors that might be usable, since I have so many...

The good news is, you can find 13" and 14" arcade monitors out there. They pop up from time to time. Plus, it's possible to ship them due to their small size.

 

You could try posting a "wanted" ad on arcade-museum for a 13" or 14" cocktail monitor. Not too long ago, I saw a guy in Arizona selling a monitor from a Taito cocktail.

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it looks like my tandy cm-8 and 11 are authentic vintage era 'cga monitors' which is what he references, and they do 1k+... so they may work (I have a cm8 & 11...) so I may have a solution! :-) (I hope...)

Interesting progress... Do you plan on wiring the power of the monitor to the cocktail's power supply? Or, would you keep the power on the original monitor cable?

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and here it is! Thanks for all your help!

 

Just curious, in my research, it seems this was actually the first game with parallax scrolling layers (albeit, two, but still,) Moon patrol is generally refereed to as the first (two years later, more layers, sure...) Thoughts??

post-1570-0-53800400-1365966004_thumb.jpg

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