Adapter to Use Atari Joysticks on Intellivision

[+evg2000]

No, my ngx is currently packed. If I would buy I would prefer external device, not a modded NEO controller.

[JohnPCAE]

Here's a potentially dumb question...couldn't PNP transistor switch circuits on all of the 8 HI pins in the controller let you get all of the 16 positions without the need for another 5V line?

Edited April 13, 2013 by JohnPCAE

[boxpressed]

PC-Engine Avenue 3 pad (and PC-Engine Blaster) have 3 buttons already and is a little nicer than SMS pad, but it does have turbo buttons, so someone still might want to make new overlay.

 

If people like pads more I could go this route and just have external box with keypad, but then games that need fast keypad pressing would be harder to use as keypad would be remote from the controller.

 

If going this route I would just use Super Famicom controller with external keypad box in order to have 4 buttons for Coleco use as well. I have some of those pads here so I might build two prototypes.

 

Gamepad would be interesting because it would solve the problem of the terrible side action buttons.

 

I'm still more interested in an arcade stick with INTV and CV compatibility, esp. if it can be done with the less expensive NGX base.

[Oscar G.]

PC-Engine Avenue 3 pad (and PC-Engine Blaster) have 3 buttons already and is a little nicer than SMS pad, but it does have turbo buttons, so someone still might want to make new overlay.

 

If people like pads more I could go this route and just have external box with keypad, but then games that need fast keypad pressing would be harder to use as keypad would be remote from the controller.

 

If going this route I would just use Super Famicom controller with external keypad box in order to have 4 buttons for Coleco use as well. I have some of those pads here so I might build two prototypes.

 

The keypad alternative seems like a more economical/reasonable alternative to me.

[GroovyBee]

Here's a potentially dumb question...couldn't PNP transistor switch circuits on all of the 8 HI pins in the controller let you get all of the 16 positions without the need for another 5V line?

 

You are trying to draw power from the weak pull-ups (10s of K to maybe >100K) of an input port so I wouldn't recommend that approach.

[boxpressed]

The keypad alternative seems like a more economical/reasonable alternative to me.

 

Yes, just wanted to clarify that my first choice would an external box with keypad to use with a separate stick or gamepad. It would be amazing if you could plug a Super Famicon (same as SNES?) D-pad or arcade stick into it. It would be a marvel if you could switch between INTV and CV compatibility.

[+grips03]

today my PCB does CV with keypad and 4 buttons. it works with any controller that natively or can be modified to switch ground, i.e. press A button and then A button is grounded. So only part I'm adding is INTV support. I should get my INTV next week so I can start working on it the following week.

 

to connect to Super Famicom controller I need to check the number of wires used and perhaps replace the cable. An external controller would have wires for u,d,l,r,b1,b2,b3,b4,gnd. b4 (button 4) would be for CV use only. If I try to wire up start and select I would need more wires.

Edited April 13, 2013 by grips03

[JohnPCAE]

You are trying to draw power from the weak pull-ups (10s of K to maybe >100K) of an input port so I wouldn't recommend that approach.

 

Not so much draw power as simply pull them down.

Edited April 13, 2013 by JohnPCAE

[+grips03]

I got my Intv 2 today, and took apart the controller.

 

I'll let you know as I make progress.

[+grips03]

I opened up Intv 2 controller today and it has a matrix keypad and not a common ground (Colecovision) keypad. Given that, I won't be able to use the same PCB for both systems. This means controller will only be for single system, in this case Intv 2.

 

Base controller will use NeoGeoX due to lower cost. Joystick shaft is threaded like standard joystick. Also Seimitsu 24mm buttons fit, just like original AES controller. Price is now expect to be ~$120. If I use stock buttons and balltop then it would most likey be ~$95.

Edited April 20, 2013 by grips03

[boxpressed]

Cool. Is it possible to create an adapter "box" that has a keypad and a port for a 9-pin Atari-compatible joystick?

[+grips03]

Atari would only provide 1 or 2 buttons at most and Intv 3 has buttons. So I would want to make it support all 3.

[boxpressed]

Right. Is it possible to create a box with keypad and a port for Genesis or SNES pads/sticks?

[JohnPCAE]

I recently bought a copy of Eagle Light and made up some custom 3-wire conductive button parts and a board that should fit in an SMS controller. I don't know how easy or hard it will be to mod, but I uploaded the board to BatchPCB and ordered four of them for myself.

 

For anyone feeling adventurous, here is the link to the board. I checked the "open-source" checkbox, so hopefully it will be useful to people.

 

https://batchpcb.com/pcbs/114433

[+grips03]

very cool. Eagle is great. Lots of fun making boards.

[JohnPCAE]

Here's one I just made for the keypad. The board size is 48x61mm. The button pitch isn't *exactly* the same as on the hand controllers: the buttons are 14mm apart horizontally and 13mm apart vertically. The board is sized for one of these:

 

http://www.gabotronics.com/electronic-kits-modules/3x4-keypad.htm

 

Here's a link to the board:

 

https://batchpcb.com/pcbs/114436

[JohnPCAE]

I've made a D-Pad mod board for the SMS controller, but there's a VERY large catch: it will require DPST conductive buttons, that is, two separate conductive patches on each of the four D-Pad directions. This might be doable by scraping away the carbon down the middle, or we might need a custom rubberized pad. Otherwise, I think the circuit will work, but YMMV.

 

Board link:

 

https://batchpcb.com/pcbs/114468

[JohnPCAE]

PS2 or PS3 start/select/reset buttons might work. Looking into it...

Edited April 21, 2013 by JohnPCAE

[+grips03]

Here's one I just made for the keypad. The board size is 48x61mm. The button pitch isn't *exactly* the same as on the hand controllers: the buttons are 14mm apart horizontally and 13mm apart vertically. The board is sized for one of these:

 

http://www.gabotroni.../3x4-keypad.htm

 

Here's a link to the board:

 

https://batchpcb.com/pcbs/114436

 

 

JohnPCAE - do you see any other way of doing the keypad?

 

pre-made matrix keypad has grid, and just shorts the two contacts when buttons is pressed - how to introduce ground into this circuit, Row 1+ Col 1 + ground

I could make my own keypad PCB and I suppose hack into an existing keypad front. <-- I think this is the solution you posted above

I could use Arduino board to read in pre-made matrix keypad and then provide ground (low) on the right pins

 

Any other thoughts?

[+grips03]

So far I have up, down, left, right and up left, up right, down left, down right (45 degrees). I'm using circuit provided by Jay Tilton for directions.

 

Going to use relays for buttons 1-3. Most likely build this tomorrow.

 

Battery space inside of NGX controller will be an issue with the first holder I bought. I'm also looking to use 2.1mm input from either 5v adapter, or from the Intv2 itself.

 

The keypad is going to be a PITA

Edited April 25, 2013 by grips03

[JohnPCAE]

JohnPCAE - do you see any other way of doing the keypad?

 

pre-made matrix keypad has grid, and just shorts the two contacts when buttons is pressed - how to introduce ground into this circuit, Row 1+ Col 1 + ground

I could make my own keypad PCB and I suppose hack into an existing keypad front. <-- I think this is the solution you posted above

I could use Arduino board to read in pre-made matrix keypad and then provide ground (low) on the right pins

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Not really...I only see two fundamental ways to do it, "active" and "passive". I took the passive approach to try to avoid needing a separate power source.

[boxpressed]

Here's one I just made for the keypad. The board size is 48x61mm. The button pitch isn't *exactly* the same as on the hand controllers: the buttons are 14mm apart horizontally and 13mm apart vertically. The board is sized for one of these:

 

http://www.gabotroni.../3x4-keypad.htm

 

Here's a link to the board:

 

https://batchpcb.com/pcbs/114436

 

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing these. Really cool. I didn't even know such a service existed. I don't have any skills to take advantage of this info yet, but maybe someday!

[+grips03]

I got the Jay Tilton circuit to work on breadboard and then on vero board. Ordered Arduino to help with keypad. Still not happy with button 3, but I bought the wrong relays.

[+grips03]

I'm using +5 from console to power controller via Panel Mount 2.1mm DC jack, jack is fused inside the console

http://www.adafruit.com/products/610

 

If people don't want to hack the console then 5V power adapter can be used:

http://www.adafruit.com/products/276

 

notice the two cords - they exit the controller in the same spot top side right. One cord for controller and one for power. I used Seimitsu 24mm screw in buttons.

http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

 

red led on front side of controller, mouser said it had internal resistor for +5v use, but first one died, now added external 150 ohm resistor

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/

 

+5 volts from console

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/

 

DB9 controller cord from Stoneage gamer.

 

I've played some games and controller works well. I got 55k on Astrosmash on 2nd try. DK2 is ok, but I would really like to have only 4 way controller for this game. This is possible by removing power cord, i.e. with power controller is 8 ways, without power controller is 4 ways. But then I lose the 1,2,3 buttons. So I need to work out solution for this, perhaps adding some NC relays to the mix.

Edited April 29, 2013 by grips03

[pimpmaul69]

I'm using +5 from console to power controller via Panel Mount 2.1mm DC jack, jack is fused inside the console

http://www.adafruit.com/products/610

 

If people don't want to hack the console then 5V power adapter can be used:

http://www.adafruit.com/products/276

 

notice the two cords - they exit the controller in the same spot top side right. One cord for controller and one for power. I used Seimitsu 24mm screw in buttons.

http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

 

red led on front side of controller, mouser said it had internal resistor for +5v use, but first one died, now added external 150 ohm resistor

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/

 

+5 volts from console

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/

 

DB9 controller cord from Stoneage gamer.

 

I've played some games and controller works well. I got 55k on Astrosmash on 2nd try. DK2 is ok, but I would really like to have only 4 way controller for this game. This is possible by removing power cord, i.e. with power controller is 8 ways, without power controller is 4 ways. But then I lose the 1,2,3 buttons. So I need to work out solution for this, perhaps adding some NC relays to the mix.

best buy has controllers on sale for $25