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Adapter to Use Atari Joysticks on Intellivision

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I'm not sure my scope is fast enough. With input on channel 1 and output on channel 2. I press button on scope and controller at the same time. I position ch1 and ch2 down at 10us and the lines look like the same line. There is no lag when playing and I'm thinking the nice folks at Altera would not be making up 10ns latency.

 

If someone else knows how to setup the Rigol DS1102E scope to get a better measurement let me know.

sweet scope you got there. i lost every ebay bid i ever bid to get one. all my scopes are old ones. still do the job though. these days i mostly use them to test vector arcade games and play tennis for two. one day i will get around to making a composite to xyz circuit.dont ask me why but i have this urge to play retro games on an old oscilloscope. i also was gonna make an xyz paddle and ball on a chip but if i make the composite to xyz then i can hook up my odyssey 3000 or my many other variations anyways. Edited by pimpmaul69

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Thanks, I just got it a few months back. I use to have this old nano type one with a mega small screen for like $100, but it was just so hard to use. This one is much nicer, but it costs more.

 

I'm glad to see the delay is 15ns this way no one will have lag type issue with the controller / adapter thing I'm making.

 

Put the arcade star wars on a Vectrex X-Y screen :)

Edited by grips03

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How would people like to power the controller?

 

Option 1

5v AC adapter

http://www.adafruit.com/products/276

 

with

 

2.1mm jack on the controller

http://www.adafruit.com/products/610

 

or

 

Option 2

add 2.1mm plug on their console - to be installed by end user or 3rd party

http://www.adafruit.com/products/610

 

with

 

controller would then have the following hard wired

http://www.adafruit.com/products/327

Edited by grips03

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Thanks, I just got it a few months back. I use to have this old nano type one with a mega small screen for like $100, but it was just so hard to use. This one is much nicer, but it costs more.

 

I'm glad to see the delay is 15ns this way no one will have lag type issue with the controller / adapter thing I'm making.

 

Put the arcade star wars on a Vectrex X-Y screen :)

only problem with that is the vectrex monitor is slow compared to an arcade vector monitor. also scores are kinda skewed on the vectrex monitor with some games. but i will say it is cool as hell to do. have you done it yet?

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I have not. The audio in that game is amazing.

i wish someone like john dondzila had made a homebrew version of that and a complete tempest game

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there is that guy in Texas or somewhere that put all those vector arcade games on single board. So you buy one cabinet and you get a bunch of the old vector games.

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there is that guy in Texas or somewhere that put all those vector arcade games on single board. So you buy one cabinet and you get a bunch of the old vector games.

WHAAAA???? oh please do tell...

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I designed a case for my passive keypad board design that should be usable with any controller if you have a 9-pin Y-cable (see posts #81 and #82 for board details). I haven't sent any out to be made, so build them at your own risk, but I'm including the FreeCAD source file as well as the .STL files for anyone who wants to play with it.

 

http://www.mediafire...tyKeypad_v1.zip

 

Edit: I ordered a set from Shapeways in "white, strong and flexible, polished". The total with shipping was about $50. We'll see how it turns out... 8)

post-7945-0-23556000-1371176447_thumb.png

post-7945-0-30996300-1371176456_thumb.png

Edited by JohnPCAE
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Just found this thread.

 

If it isn't too late to get in on this.. I am interested, but will the power to that controller be coming in as DC?

 

I apologize if this is a stupid question, but AC going into a device that I'd be holding in my lap is kinda scary for some reason..

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Just found this thread.

 

If it isn't too late to get in on this.. I am interested, but will the power to that controller be coming in as DC?

 

I apologize if this is a stupid question, but AC going into a device that I'd be holding in my lap is kinda scary for some reason..

 

which controller?

JohnPCAE's design is passive using custom DPST pcb pad for SMS controller

the one I'm making will be battery powered

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which controller?

JohnPCAE's design is passive using custom DPST pcb pad for SMS controller

the one I'm making will be battery powered

 

Sorry for not being clear. I was asking about your INTV arcade stick.

 

If it is battery powered, I'd like to get in on this if it isn't too late.

 

This is an NeoGeoX 8-way stick with keypad, correct?

 

(Apologies if this has all been stated previously, but it seems like I'm only seeing half of the conversation in this thread, so I'm a little unclear.)

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Sorry for not being clear. I was asking about your INTV arcade stick.

 

If it is battery powered, I'd like to get in on this if it isn't too late.

 

This is an NeoGeoX 8-way stick with keypad, correct?

 

(Apologies if this has all been stated previously, but it seems like I'm only seeing half of the conversation in this thread, so I'm a little unclear.)

 

I can add you to the back order list. It does have 4 or 8 way gate. It has keypad too.

I've switched to battery vs AC adapter as two cords did annoying after a while.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/213043-intv2-controller-pre-order-interest-list/

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Yep, please put me down for one. I would be delighted to have one, if I were to get so lucky.

 

Thanks

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Yep, please put me down for one. I would be delighted to have one, if I were to get so lucky.

 

Thanks

 

Plan is to first ten out and then start on the back order. I keep messing up the PCBs (3 week wait per PCB, I'm on my 3rd or 5th PCB depending on how you look at it) and I keep switching CPLDs (I think I'm on my 4th) and power (I've tried AC, 1xAA, 2xAA, going to try 9V and 3xAA in next couple of weeks), it takes me forever to get it right :(

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I designed a case for my passive keypad board design that should be usable with any controller if you have a 9-pin Y-cable (see posts #81 and #82 for board details). I haven't sent any out to be made, so build them at your own risk, but I'm including the FreeCAD source file as well as the .STL files for anyone who wants to play with it.

 

http://www.mediafire...tyKeypad_v1.zip

 

Edit: I ordered a set from Shapeways in "white, strong and flexible, polished". The total with shipping was about $50. We'll see how it turns out... 8)

Wait, you ordered that for $50?? I have a printer and I can make the same thing, especially since there is an already done .stl file. I'd have done it for less than $50.

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I posted this elsewhere, but here was my thought...

 

If you were going to make an adapter for the Intellivision that would work with an existing Atari 2600 joystick, you would need to make it a splitter (goes into one port and splits for 2 accessories).

 

On one end, you would hook up your joystick and this would function in place of the thumb control and primary firing button. On the split, you would allow the original keypad to hook up.

 

This way, you could easily switch between pad and joystick mid-game by having both the pad and joystick mapped properly to the different ends of the splitter.

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GoldenShop.com.hk and goldenshop.com has lots of Playstation to (fill in the blank) adapters. Maybe a Playstation to Intellivision adapter would be good. It needs an "original/Flashback" switch, because Flashback is reversed and I got my Intellivision 1 "Flashback controller modded". I just ordered and did it myself. This was in hopes of attaching a fight stick to the Intellivision. I think only two games, Vectron and the second version of Auto Racing, is rendered totally unplayable by the 8 way controller. Some games may be altered a little, like fine dodging would be trickier, but most games would be HELPED with an 8-way switchable to a 4 way controller. While we're at it a Playstation to Colecovision adapter, a PS-> 5200, a PS->7800, a PS-> Jaguar, and a PS-> Astrocade just for fight sticks, (no games that use paddles). IF you can save significant money off hiring someone to pad hack each respective controller.

 

Some may want PS-> Vectrex, PS-> Channel F, and PS-> CD-i and I would say PS-> Odyssey 2 and PS-> Arcadia, except most of the first, and all of the second, don't have detachable controllers, so until a) someone cares enough, which we may find of Odyssey 2, but is extremely hard to find for an Arcadia, (I own an Arcadia. Found it plus 7 cartridges for $35.00 guaranteed working from a used media store, I got 14 of the 21 games ever made, and of those 14, there are like 0 I'd go to voluntarily, and would only go to if someone challenges me on a back-to-back twitch streams) and b) someone is able to make such an adapter would make an adapter that convert hard wired sticks to DB9s or something like that, and then from there go into a PS controller.

 

As for PS->CV, most games can run on either regular or Super Action controllers, but some games only work on SA. Other games, like The Activision Decathlon and Q*Bert's Qubes REQUIRE a Standard CV joystick. they don't run right on Super Action controllers.

 

Finally there needs to be a DB9 (or for the 5200) DB15 adapter for using simultaneous keypad action. Also, it could work with both digital and analog controls since the PS Dual Shock 1 and PS2 dual Shock 2 has both analog and digital directions, the 5200 can even have twin analog/twin digital for Robotron and Space Dungeon outputting to 2 separate 5200 ports.

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Auto Racing is actually not bad with an 8-way dpad. You can make tight turns without the risk of oversteering. That's the more common version with "realistic" right/left steering. An analog stick could work with some 16-way games; but it would have to be a powered adapter which is not ideal. Four-way and 2-way games work well with the Intellivision disc so its a matter of preference. The only game that might be helped with an 8-way dpad might be Snafu. The problem for me, is that modern controllers are left handed and I'm use to working the disc with my right thumb.

Edited by mr_me

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Auto Racing is actually not bad with an 8-way dpad. You can make tight turns without the risk of oversteering. That's the more common version with "realistic" right/left steering. An analog stick could work with some 16-way games; but it would have to be a powered adapter which is not ideal. Four-way and 2-way games work well with the Intellivision disc so its a matter of preference. The only game that might be helped with an 8-way dpad might be Snafu. The problem for me, is that modern controllers are left handed and I'm use to working the disc with my right thumb.

 

I agree about the right handed solution.

 

Also find the thing that would be most useful to most people. A Genesis controller would not work because it, as well as Atari, Coleco, Astrocade, Commodore, SMS) assume one bit is on or off for each cardinal, and diagonals are actuated by pressing in between the cardinals, while the INTV joystick system uses 5 pins for 12 keypad buttons and 16 directions. One pin controls whether it's a direcitonal movement, or a keypad press is detected. If the frame is in D-pad mode, then there is a default cardinal direction that's assume if the d-pad pin is on and none of the directional keys are on. One pin adds 180 degrees, one pin adds 90 degrees in one direction, one pins adds 45 degree angles in that game direction, and one pin adds 22.5 degrees. It's 16-direction and 1 degree of sensitivity. (no pressure on the pad is assumed when the key bit is used, is considered a keypad press of null if neither the keypad or stick are pressed. A funny thing about the controller, you can't press a keypad button and a joypad direction together without getting unpredictable results. 12 of the remaining 15 combinations are a key each, one extra 4-bit setting is a reserved "pause setting" by pressing 2 keys simultaneously. (a specific 2, I never owned the INTV as a kid so I don't know which 2. Until I know, I assume just empty the body's septic tank before I play a long session.) And there's 2 other combinations reserved for other keypad combos.

 

I'm looking for someone to wire a DB25 pin adapter to it. I would use a standard fight DB15, except for 2 factors. The first is the DB15 does not accommodate 8 main fight buttons, 4 directions, 3 aux buttons, a ground, and a voltage, and the second is every system with a keypad can have a pin reserved for an individual number keypad press. Intv has 12 keys, and because a fight stick would not be right for games that require 16 ways, but be better with 8-way, 4 way, and 2 way games, 4 cardinals, and 3 buttons=19 independent keys, (+2 for voltage and ground=21) Coleco Super action has 12 keypad, plus 4 action, 2 roller directions that could be "buttonized" (The roller works as 2 different buttons on a Sega Genesis 3 button game. not a very accurate pair of buttons, but two nonetheless.) + 4 directions, making 24 when you add one for voltage and one for ground. 5200 is analog so that's a different beast, and the Jaguar has 12 keys, 4 directions, 3 action buttons, and 2 aux buttons, plus ground and voltage makes 23. So a DB 25 would work for wiring each individual controller. If the DB25 standard was used for a fight stick, then you have 8 buttons, 4 directions, 3 aux buttons, a ground and voltage, and you have room for 8 more pins. May I suggest sending analog sticks as 4 cardinals apiece in a digital manner so that the only thing not wired are the L3 and R3. I don't know of any games that work well with a fight stick requiring L3 and R3, but Super Smash Bros can use the analogs as movement and smash stick.

 

What about the Atari Jaguar Pro Controller? Funny thing... L, R, Z, Y, and X are mapped to 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 respectively. So save that Jaguar Pro pad for games you want pads, and pad-hack a standard Jag pad. It's a lot cheaper fight stick solution.

 

The biggest trick is getting 4 discrete cardinals mapped to 8 pressure sensors on INTV because you'll have to do something for diagonals, where N+E = some combination of joystick press existence, +180, +90, and +45 Cardinals are easy, just wire north to north, the 2 tricks are diagonals being a combination of 2 cardinals, and being careful to accidentally not actuating 2 at once, or else you have unpredictable results.

 

That requires some engineering, converting 2 independent cardinals to 8 discrete, non-simultaneous pressings. I haven't the foggiest, but I laid down the first couple clues in the roadmap.

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There's no pin that toggles direction/keypad. Electrically the Intellivision disc is not unlike an Atari joystick or sega d-pad. There are four pins, one each for the four cardinal directions. Like an Atari joystick or dpad, a diagonal direction comes from combining two pins together. If adapting an atari joystick or dpad you will get a correct diagonal for some games. Games that only use four or two directions should all work correctly. The side buttons need diodes to work properly when adapting an Atari/Sega controller.

Edited by mr_me

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Actually, the system I described is TOO simple: Here's my evidence that an Intellivision controller follows a logic even weirder than I suggest and why using a 2600 controller would not work without some modification.

 

I've explained a system that could use 3 independent buttons, and 5 pins to cover 16 ways and 12 keypad buttons, and 3 dual keypad combinations, one of them is Pause, and one combination for neutral. Apparently there are NO independent controls, no single pin is reserved for any button, joypad direction, or keypad press. All are interrelated to each other. Apparently, pressing ANY 2 controls would mess it up and come up with unpredictable results.

 

Also if you take apart the controller, there are 16 separate actuators for the 16 separate directions, which makes pad hacking tough, because NE <> N + E

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