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Method to Remove RF Shield?


boxpressed

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I just received a four-port 5200 that was described as not outputting video -- just a black screen. I hoped it was a problem with the PS or switch box, but I tested the console with spares of each with no luck. After reading some of the 5200 "black screen" threads, I'm ready to start swapping ICs from other 5200s I have.

 

As anticipated, the RF shield is a beast. I've managed to twist the tabs back to their original position, but the RF shield still seems stuck to the PCB. It's almost as if it is glued down. I don't want to break the PCB or anything else by using force, so I was wondering if there was some trick to lifting up the RF shield after the tabs no longer obstruct the removal.

 

Here's a photo. This is a four-port asterisk model, by the way. Thanks for any advice!

post-30018-0-12895000-1366169204_thumb.jpg

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there is an RF Sheild on the bottom of the board as well ... those tabs are attached to that sheild and feed through the board.

 

Several of those tabs don't look very straight, get some needle nose pliers and make them look factory straight. I bet it will come off just fine.

 

Mitch

the tumbnail looks like you miseed a couple lower left & upper right in by heatsink

 

Sometimes a bit of rust can "glue" it together. After double checking all tabs, try sliding a blade between pieces of sheet-metal. I guess it's possible somebody previously took it apart and used something to afix it under the tabs, but probably unlikely.

 

start in one corner with screwdriver just to get some movement ... the suck tabs will reveal themselves as you work around perimeter .... get blade under & twist just a bit ... forcing it will make it probably imossible to put back on

 

after I got both my sheilds off , I teporarily re-assembled them off the board just so everything would stay in line ... a couple of the tabs did break just from straightening ... but my console was rusted pretty bad there.

 

Black screen could also be a dirty or dead cart .... just to rule things out ;)

 

EDIT:

just looked @ pic again .... looks like some pins on gameport are bent (possably dirty as well)

Edited by chas10e
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Thanks for the help. I left a couple of tabs unbent (upper right) because I need finer needlenose pliers to fit in the space. I'll pick some up and straighten every tab out a little more, see if that does anything. I was thinking that if I straightened most of them, the shield would "give" a little bit, but now I think that won't happen until all of the tabs are straight because the shield is connected from underneath the PCB (as noted by the previous poster).

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When I removed mine, I had to use real tight cutters to cut some of the tabs off.

It was still a pain to get it off, and its not going back on.

Also, what holds the rest of the board in the housing, I cannot

release it from the thing, and I dont want to jam it around

anymore for fear of breaking something..

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When I removed mine, I had to use real tight cutters to cut some of the tabs off.

It was still a pain to get it off, and its not going back on.

Also, what holds the rest of the board in the housing, I cannot

release it from the thing, and I dont want to jam it around

anymore for fear of breaking something..

 

I recall now the board is held into the bottom of the outer case still by some very tight fitting plastic nubs ( I was very nervous as I was lifting it ... they are alignment pins .... steady pressure & a bit of wiggling released it. .... I may have put a bit of lubicant on the pins ...

 

very lower left & right corners of board ... can see the holes in pic above

 

----------------------------------------

I took the cartridge out of my unit & powered it up getting a black screen....

you should have a red LED light under the power button either way

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Well, I straightened all of the tabs the best I could with the pliers I have. It seems as though the shield should give some "slack." I will pick up another pair of pliers or some kind of crimping tool to get them super straight, but it still seems as though I am missing something...

 

Also, I tried to push that one pin back into alignment, but it keeps popping back to where it is in the photo. I cleaned the pins with contact cleaner, and I'll try some Deoxit on it later.

Edited by boxpressed
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If the pin bent and has a cold solder joint at that point of the circuit board, you might try this.

POWER OFF.. plug cart in. jam the cart towards the back.. POWER ON.

POWER OFF.. plug cart in. jam the cart towards the front.. POWER ON.

Hold the cart either front or back.. POWER OFF.. WIGGLE THE cart a little. POWER ON..

This may work, and if it does, all you need to do is resolder the Pins in the cartridge port.

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OK, no dice on robertski's suggestions, so I'm ready to start swapping ICs (once I remove another RF shield :mad: ). What's the best method to lift the IC out of the socket? I think I'll start with the GTIA.

 

How did you make out?

 

I normally use a small flat screw driver insert under the chip and twist on one side, then the other.

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How did you make out?

 

I normally use a small flat screw driver insert under the chip and twist on one side, then the other.

 

Thanks for that suggestion -- I'll give it a shot later. I may not be able to update on progress until later in the weekend because of how time consuming it will be to take apart another 5200! I'm guessing that because the GTIA says "5200 only" on it that I wouldn't be able to use one from an Atari 800, right?

Edited by boxpressed
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Thanks for that suggestion -- I'll give it a shot later. I may not be able to update on progress until later in the weekend because of how time consuming it will be to take apart another 5200! I'm guessing that because the GTIA says "5200 only" on it that I wouldn't be able to use one from an Atari 800, right?

 

I don't think so, a GTIA from an 800 should work. As long as it is a GTIA, didn't the early 8 bits use a different chip? CTIA or something.....

 

Maybe you need an XL or XE for a GTIA?

Edited by Official Ninja
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1>IS +5V on output of VR1? IF this is 11V or more, then the TR1 is defective..

Do not do anything if VR1 is defective as you will only damage more.

2>Is a 1.78975Mhz signal present at PIN30 of U5?

3>Check all transistors. I always check the Collector at about 1V. If not

at about 1V but 0, then something is wrong.

Sorry, the rest is pretty complicated but, these can be done in 10 seconds with a DVM.

- a basic meter..

Hope this is helpful.

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