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Uzumaki

Lynx II Disassembly Guide

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I didn't see any guide on this forum and I don't like Youtube guide, it's hard to print them out. I did find a guide on the internet but it's not quite clear. So I posted one.

Tools required:
Phillips screwdriver #1 and #2
small flat screwdriver or guitar pick or something thin and strong.

I take no responsibility if you do this and something breaks. This is a guide to help people understand how to take Lynx II apart for cleaning, repairing, or to add mods.

[attachment=287285:lynx_ii_1.jpg]
First, remove power cable, audio cable, battery cover, batteries, and game card if it's still in the system. Flip the Lynx so the back is facing toward you.

[attachment=287286:lynx_ii_2.jpg]
On most Lynx II I took apart, they were held on by double sided tape, and they usually stay with the rubber grip. Peel off 2 rubber grip and set them somewhere safe, make sure the sticky side is protected. If by chance the tape did not come with the rubber grip but instead stayed on the plastic shell, you can leave it and poke hole for screws. Remove 4 screws marked by blue arrows using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. A #1 will work but it'd be loose fit and you risk damaging the head.

[attachment=287287:lynx_ii_3.jpg]
The back cover should come off easily. Using the screwdriver again, remove the screw holding the battery compartment down. You may need to drive the screwdriver at a slight angle. Life the board slightly, the compartment should come out easily. Watch the battery spring on the right side when removing the compartment.

[attachment=287288:Lynx_ii_4.jpg]
Using your fingernail, guitar pick, or small flat screwdriver, pop the connector open. The connector should slide down once it's unfastened, allowing the ribbon cables to come out easily.

[attachment=287289:lynx_ii_5.jpg]
Raise the board some more, you can disconnect the speaker cable and back light cable.

[attachment=287291:lynx_ii_6.jpg]
The LCD itself. Using #1 screwdriver this time, remove 4 screws marked by blue arrows. The LCD module will come out easy. If you need to fix sticky or non working button(s), after removing the LCD using #2 screwdriver and remove 6 screws by green arrows. The directional pad and the A and B button pads are held on by thin plastic retaining clip, they can come off easy but take care not to use excessive force or you may break it and it would be a problem putting it back together. Use the opportunity to clean dust and gunk off the contact pad, and to check for worn contacts.

You could probably try to replace the LED but it's a very small one (not SMD) soldered directly to plastic membrane and it can be damaged if you're not careful. Suggest you leave the LED alone unless you're very experienced with soldering iron and know what to do. If I examined the membrane correctly, facing the front, anode of LED is on the right side (toward fire buttons) and cathode is on left side (toward control pad)

To reassemble, take care no dust is present on LCD screen or the back of Lynx screen before putting the module back in. Check the black foam-like seal around the LCD screen, ensure that it didn't slip out and block part of the viewing area before screwing them back together. Follow the rest of the steps in reverse.

You may run into difficulty in inserting the ribbon cable due to small space, first make sure the fastener is in the open position. Make sure the cable is straight and all the way in before snapping it into locked position. Then give it a gentle tug, if it comes out you need to re-unfasten the connector and insert the cable deeper. And most importantly, take your time putting them together, the ribbon cable could become damaged if you get too aggressive with reassembly.

Before screwing in the back cover, plug a game and power or battery in and test to make sure everything is working. It's no fun putting it all together only to find the LCD doesn't work, and you have to re-disassemble to fix improperly seated cable or left off backlight plug.

If the double sided tape goes bad for any reason, you can pick up a roll of double sided tape from hardware store. They often come in roll about 1.3" (around 3.5cm) wide, is usually used for carpet or linoleum floor, and only costs a few dollars. First, remove any old tape remains and clean the grooves where the grip goes in. Roll out the tape a few inches long, long enough to lay both rubber grips parallel. Then using xacto knife or other sharp knife, carefully cut along the edge of the rubber grip until you can remove it from the rest of the tape. Peel off the backing and install them in Lynx, they should stay in!

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[quote name='Uzumaki' timestamp='1366419930' post='2739023']
I didn't see any guide on this forum and I don't like Youtube guide, it's hard to print them out. I did find a guide on the internet but it's not quite clear. So I posted one.

Tools required:
Phillips screwdriver #1 and #2
small flat screwdriver or guitar pick or something thin and strong.

I take no responsibility if you do this and something breaks. This is a guide to help people understand how to take Lynx II apart for cleaning, repairing, or to add mods.

[attachment=287285:lynx_ii_1.jpg]
First, remove power cable, audio cable, battery cover, batteries, and game card if it's still in the system. Flip the Lynx so the back is facing toward you.

[attachment=287286:lynx_ii_2.jpg]
On most Lynx II I took apart, they were held on by double sided tape, and they usually stay with the rubber grip. Peel off 2 rubber grip and set them somewhere safe, make sure the sticky side is protected. If by chance the tape did not come with the rubber grip but instead stayed on the plastic shell, you can leave it and poke hole for screws. Remove 4 screws marked by blue arrows using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. A #1 will work but it'd be loose fit and you risk damaging the head.

[attachment=287287:lynx_ii_3.jpg]
The back cover should come off easily. Using the screwdriver again, remove the screw holding the battery compartment down. You may need to drive the screwdriver at a slight angle. Life the board slightly, the compartment should come out easily. Watch the battery spring on the right side when removing the compartment.

[attachment=287288:Lynx_ii_4.jpg]
Using your fingernail, guitar pick, or small flat screwdriver, pop the connector open. The connector should slide down once it's unfastened, allowing the ribbon cables to come out easily.

[attachment=287289:lynx_ii_5.jpg]
Raise the board some more, you can disconnect the speaker cable and back light cable.

[attachment=287291:lynx_ii_6.jpg]
The LCD itself. Using #1 screwdriver this time, remove 4 screws marked by blue arrows. The LCD module will come out easy. If you need to fix sticky or non working button(s), after removing the LCD using #2 screwdriver and remove 6 screws by green arrows. The directional pad and the A and B button pads are held on by thin plastic retaining clip, they can come off easy but take care not to use excessive force or you may break it and it would be a problem putting it back together. Use the opportunity to clean dust and gunk off the contact pad, and to check for worn contacts.

You could probably try to replace the LED but it's a very small one (not SMD) soldered directly to plastic membrane and it can be damaged if you're not careful. Suggest you leave the LED alone unless you're very experienced with soldering iron and know what to do. If I examined the membrane correctly, facing the front, anode of LED is on the right side (toward fire buttons) and cathode is on left side (toward control pad)

To reassemble, take care no dust is present on LCD screen or the back of Lynx screen before putting the module back in. Check the black foam-like seal around the LCD screen, ensure that it didn't slip out and block part of the viewing area before screwing them back together. Follow the rest of the steps in reverse.

You may run into difficulty in inserting the ribbon cable due to small space, first make sure the fastener is in the open position. Make sure the cable is straight and all the way in before snapping it into locked position. Then give it a gentle tug, if it comes out you need to re-unfasten the connector and insert the cable deeper. And most importantly, take your time putting them together, the ribbon cable could become damaged if you get too aggressive with reassembly.

Before screwing in the back cover, plug a game and power or battery in and test to make sure everything is working. It's no fun putting it all together only to find the LCD doesn't work, and you have to re-disassemble to fix improperly seated cable or left off backlight plug.

If the double sided tape goes bad for any reason, you can pick up a roll of double sided tape from hardware store. They often come in roll about 1.3" (around 3.5cm) wide, is usually used for carpet or linoleum floor, and only costs a few dollars. First, remove any old tape remains and clean the grooves where the grip goes in. Roll out the tape a few inches long, long enough to lay both rubber grips parallel. Then using xacto knife or other sharp knife, carefully cut along the edge of the rubber grip until you can remove it from the rest of the tape. Peel off the backing and install them in Lynx, they should stay in!
[/quote]Nice job,man.This should do it for those that want to tackle the task. :)

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The Lynx 2 was the first handheld I "dared" to dissassemble. And it was indeed surprisingly easy. I´d encourage everyone to do it themselves when there is the need to e.g. remove dust under the screen.
The Lynx is very user-friendly in this respect :) Sega, Sony and Nintendo handhelds are a (relative) nightmare in comparison LOL ;) Edited by Atari_afternoon

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[quote name='Atari_afternoon' timestamp='1366578355' post='2739982']
Sega, Sony and Nintendo handhelds are a (relative) nightmare in comparison LOL ;)
[/quote]

Tell me something new. I killed my DS Lite last month trying to change the case.

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Game gear and Orig Gameboys are dead easy to take apart. Nomad too if you can ever find a screw bit thin and long enough. DS Lite..unless you have fingers the size of babies and a sizeable amount of patience, forget it. It's micro/macro technology gone mad. The internal mic lead has a socket with a diameter the same width as an atom. And what's with curling up that damn ribbon to get it through the hinge!!

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[quote name='guitari' timestamp='1366642410' post='2740365']
And what's with curling up that damn ribbon to get it through the hinge!!
[/quote]

That. Seriously, I was sitting there and wondering how it could be physically possible to do that. They must have used quantum mechanics in Nintendo's manufacturing plant to bend reality itself and get that done.

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I had some bad luck with opening game consoles to clean them. Has anybody attempted ths? Is it really possible? Have not ben able to do it on the Lynx II.

 

Q. I have some dust under my Lynx screen; how can I clean it?
 
A. The original Lynxes are easy to take apart; simply remove the screws,
   disassemble the Lynx, then wipe the screen clean.
 
   It is possible to disassemble the Lynx II and clean its screen in a
   similar way, but there is an easier alternative.  According to John
   Daniels, "The front screen on the Lynx 2 snaps on and off (easier to snap
   on than off though).  The transparent area and the area surrounding the
   small buttons near the screen is one big piece of plastic.  It snaps on
   with a lip on the top and bottom edge. ... It takes a pretty sturdy sharp
   edge, but once you start it moving, it just pops off and then you can
   clean the area between the plastic screen and the LCD."
 
   For cleaning, plain water or cleaning liquid will work fine.  It is
   recommended that you allow your screen to dry before reassembling the
   Lynx, to reduce the danger of damaging the electronics.

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Hey all! Sorry if I'm reviving a zombie topic here, but my Lynx comes from a smoking home and as such has the typical reek about it. I'm going to wash all the components I can (gently of course) with soap and water, but I want to do the rubber grips as well. Can I wash those and then somehow 're-enable' the adhesive, or should I find a new adhesive to stick them on, and if so, what would work well? Thanks!

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Double sided tape will work for the grips. I bought a Wii from a smoker and it reeked! I ended up using gentle car polish on it and that seem to clear the smell. Don't use water unless you can be sure it's completely dry before you put it back together. Hope this helps.

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I found this guide very usefull for fixing my Lynx II (right d-pad stuck for a dirty contact).

 

The only problem I had was fastening the video ribbon cable. After several failed tryes I decided to do it with the screen not fixed to the case andit was really simpler and with less risk to break the ribbon. This way you have to connect the audio wires after the video, that needs to work in a small space, but that wires ar stronger that the video ribbon, so I think it's not a real problem.

 

Don't know if this is the correct sequence for reassembling the Lynx, but for me worked.

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