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By the way, make sure to include access to the expansion bus, just like the original. That removable tab on top was intended to allow for expansion modules. I know that none were ever made, but I've seen old threads where using it for new hardware has been discussed. You don't want to cripple your design by missing out on compatibility.

 

-dZ.

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It wasn't at all easy. Unfortunately, while I can "test fit" in the editor, there's no way to tell how easy or hard it is to remove the panel without actually making it. The next step is to model the knob. I put in a lip around the hub (visible here) to try to keep dust or dirt from getting past it.

post-7945-0-49211500-1369462401_thumb.png

Edited by JohnPCAE
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Personally I wouldn't worry about the hatch breaking off if someone tries to take it off. There hasn't been any upgrade for 30 years and I bet many never knew that the framed logo is actually a cover for expansion. I didn't know either until I took apart one to clean it some years ago.

 

If there is a plug in expansion, odd are it'd be too big to hide under the cover and would stick out. I mean you can't burn a G1 ROM at all and fabbing your own G1 compliant ROM is expensive as heck for just one small run. EPROM with either logic chip or CPLD to deal with address muxing would still be a lot cheaper and still be bigger than the little space under the cover.

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It will definitely require a new board...but that's not my job :lolblue:

 

In my opinion the need for a new PCB negates the need for the expansion hatch. Losing the hatch would also simplify the plastics design and therefore the moulding requirements - win-win all round ;).

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I think it is cool that you are doing a design based on the Intellivision II Intellivoice.....but, if you redesign it, how are you going to get the 'voice volume wheel' up there on the top? Don't you have to essentially make a new case for the existing boards, which have the wheel out front?

if he made it to match the original board you could desolder pot and put a knob pot on top really really easy.
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

I understand that the original board is too far forward, but what would a morphed case look like that mimics the Inty 2 style, but allows for the use of the original board?

 

Is 3D more doable these days compared to 2 years ago when this thread was started? There was another member that recently offered some 3D printing for new controller designs.

 

If you google "3d printing services" there appear to be many companies offering this service, and a handful near me in the Silicon Valley. Not sure of pricing, or size limitations, or color availability.

 

Maybe 3D printing may be more viable these days compared to designing and making a new board.

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I uploaded it to OSH Park, if anyone is interested.

 

https://oshpark.com/profiles/Hustin13

 

Their rendering doesn't accurately represent what the board will actually look like when you get it -- the Eagle files are what it really looks like. For some reason, their rendering makes pads too large such that clearances look a lot smaller than they actually are.

 

Thread link: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/217742-nanovoice/?do=findComment&comment=3368509

 

Use at your own risk! It's **untested**. If you test it, use an Inty, board components, and a cart that you don't mind seeing fried!

Edited by JohnPCAE
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  • 3 years later...

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